The Longhouse

14 Trad Climbs


The Longhouse is a shady rock outcropping visible from the Smoke Bluffs and around Squamish. From the third summit of the Chief: it is the granite dome directly across Oleson Creek from you. Most of the climbing is covered by trees and hidden, but underneath the trees are many, many crack systems. The crag is large and has climbing on the north and west aspects. The top can be accessed on foot from the east.

The climbs are predominately single pitch crack climbs that are burly in nature. Expect splitter cracks, steep walls, and adventure. While the style may not be for everyone, those that like vertical to overhanging jamming on pristine high friction granite will surely find a size crack they enjoy.

Directions / Travel Info:

There are two standard approaches to the Longhouse, the fair means approach and the newly buffed Shannon Creek FSR. The approach from the valley starts on the Squaw trail. From the base of the right side Squaw (aka The Great Game, XTC roof, etc.) continue south and uphill toward the North summit of the Chief on the standard hiking trail. From the vista (Doobie Point), the branch towards the Longhouse will be roughly 30m closer to the Chief and will branch left up the hill towards Oleson Creek and Mount Habrich. Follow this trail across the gravel path and along a well blazed trail until the trail becomes cluster fucked from winter-windfall. At the debris trend down the hill towards the creek and cross a log bridge by the two giant cedars (Cedar Grove). In early season the water moves fast enough that I usually fill my water here. Cross the creek and continue on the blazed trail up the hill. You will come to a roof crack boulder problem described in Marc Bourdon’s Squamish Bouldering book. The crag above the boulder is Little Catalonia and was discovered and climbed on over 10 years ago by Andrew Boyd and Derek Flett. The climbing on this wall is very good and well worth the hike in its own right. Traverse the base of Little Catalonia going south following the blazed trail. About 400m past the roof crack boulder the Bounty Hunter’s visor will appear to your right on the trail. Follow the trail above the Bounty Hunter and continue up the hill taking care to stay to the climbers Left of the talus. Continue up the hill on the trail for 5 minutes and arrive at the Longhouse, the Naughty Nurse crack will be the climb directly in front of you.

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