Glen Lake Crag

34 Sport Climbs, 2 Trad Climbs

Description:

Introduction:
The Glen Lake crag offers relatively easy access, close proximity to Greater Victoria, and caters to beginner and intermediate climbers with routes ranging from 5.7 - 5.11- , from low-angle to slightly overhanging with at least one overhanging pump fest. The view from the top, back towards Victoria, is spectacular. The rock is good quality weathered basalt – lots of friction and many edges and flakes. It is located 5 minutes’ drive from the Westshore Town Centre in Langford, or 15-20 minute drive from downtown Victoria.

Notes:
• Hundreds of hours have been put in to the development of this crag. Yet, there are still plenty of undeveloped walls, ie. Black Beauty, at Glen Lake that we would love people to come out and develop. Our hope is that anyone wanting to put routes up here reaches out to us because we believe that we have a very good understanding of the area and could be of great help to you.
• A helmet is suggested – the rock is great, but because the routes are new they still need some mileage. There is also a fair bit of loose rocks at the top, much like the South Cliffs of Mt. Wells.
• The area is South West facing, and gets morning to mid-afternoon sun.
• The routes with a star beside their name, are the best in my opinion.

For more info and a free guidebook find us on Facebook - Glen Lake Crag. https://www.facebook.com/groups/299312767070589/

edit. The Facebook page is still active as of 2024, though the guide is out of date since 2019. The most updated guide is on the Glen Lake Crag website.
https://www.glenlakecrag.ca/

Directions / Travel Info:

Location:
Glen Lake Crag is located 10 kilometers west of Victoria. Current parking and access is easiest on the side of 4100 Westshore Parkway.
From Victoria, head North on TransCanada Highway #1 and turn left on to Westshore Parkway. Follow this road for about 3kms. You will continue straight through the first 2 roundabouts and at the 3rd roundabout, take the 1st exit and stay on Westshore Parkway. Reset your odometre and drive 1.4kms. You will arrive at the parking area when you see a fire hydrant on the right side of the road (see photo below), near the base of the trail. Please park here, but do not park within 5 metres of it. We’d like to keep this access open for all to enjoy!
Coordinates: 48.434353, -123.539344
Approach:
Once you have found parking, look to the right of the fire hydrant and up the hill. Look for the trail entrance to the left of a small tree stump. The trail is located in a small ravine. Walk up this ravine for a minute until you come to a fork. You have to 2 options:
1. Heading left at the fork will direct you towards Umbrage Wall, Dirt Stamp Wall (Main Wall), or Shake a Flake Wall (Ochre Wall). After 2 minutes walking, you will come to a second fork on the trail. Turn right to get to the Umbrage Wall. This is the first and lowest wall on the trail, and is mostly shaded by Maple Trees. To get to Dirt Stamp Wall(Main Wall), keep left on the trail, heading towards the left side of the crag, until you find a trail that cuts right, up the rocks. Continue up and right to the base of Karate Kid Wall (Camas Wall) or you can even access the top of Umbrage Wall from here.
If you continue up left after you scramble up the rocky path, you will see Shake a Flake Wall.
2. Heading right at the first fork and walking for 5 minutes will take you to the Lower Karate Kid Wall (Upper Camas Wall). To access the Upper Karate Kid Wall (Lower Camas Wall) continue walking the base of the lower wall climber’s right. Follow the base of the rock until it starts heading uphill and takes you to the top of the crag. Cut left across the top of the crag to access the top of Upper Karate Kid Wall(Upper Camas Wall).
Ethic
Pack it in and pack it out. Be respectful of hikers and other user groups.
History
A few trad routes and aid lines were put up in the 1990's. Then in 2015, two local climbers, Seanathon and Marko, started the huge undertaking of turning it in to the crag you see today.

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