Chatsworth Edge

2 Sport Climbs, 15 Trad Climbs

Description:

This peaceful crag, located deep in the northern end of Skaha Bluffs, has one of the highest concentrations of gear-protected climbs. Since the protection on these routes tends to be very good and the grades very moderate, Chatsworth attracts climbers learning to gear climb as well as those keen on practising their skills. Due to the prevalence of clean cracks, some guides use this cliff as a teaching site. If you arrive to find a group in situ, don't fret - there are plenty of lines available and the vast majority of guides are more than willing to step aside to accomodate recreational climbers.

Conditions:
Chatsworth Edge faces due east and gets morning sun, but the open forest on this bench provides intermittent shade along the cliffbase and on certain parts of the wall.

Directions / Travel Info:

From the southern parking lots, hike to The Fortress and continue north past Red Tail Wall all the way to the base of Doctors' Wall. From here, pass through Fern Gully corridor and march north along the base of the canyon. Pass Screeching wall on the left and Maternal Wall on the right before arriving at the seldom-visited crags Mourning Time and Guy's Cliff. Past this point, the trail becomes a little vague as it continues through talus. After a couple of minutes, the route moves to the left past a couple of sport routes (Dungeon Rock) before climbing steeply out of the canyon on the left. Continue up this trail and through the trees to quickly arrive at the south end of Chatsworth Edge.

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