Vikki Weldon:For the crux, I ended up holding the two opposing crimps and hiking my right foot up over the lip for a high back step and toe hooked my left foot under the roof. Then a tough stab up to the left hand higher crimp. Bump my left foot up to the obvious shiny nub and big back flag with my right foot to move to the pocket.
Feels good to put this one away. Lots of emotional hurdles with this route. I fell off the last move several times over a couple of trips a few years ago. Very reachy for me. Pulling the lip wasn't an issue but the HUGE pulls and deadpoints higher up kept shutting me down. Finally unleashed some aggro and finished it off.
Had a mental battle with this route. When will I learn to leave expectations on the ground and just enjoy the climb every time? It was only when I did this that everything clicked for the send. Would be 5 stars except for the disgusting intro. Yay Smith Rocks!