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    Skaha > Great White

    Great White is a large west-facing cliff band located in Sunny Valley. This is a must visit when in Skaha. The sun rolls around and starts baking the cliffs between 1:30-2:30 in midsummer, allowing 3 seasons of sending. HHH and the intro walls feature some pleasant routes at a variety of grades. Painted Bird is the pick of the crop on this right side. Raven`s nest, despite some of it`s routes being less traveled is more than worthy of a sampling. Make sure to climb the mega classic Test of The Ironman. Teen wall is a huge 40 meter wall with some inspiring endurance routes. A short, angled slab at the base of the wall is the only drawback. If you are not too much of a purist and chipped holds don`t trigger you, make sure to check out the sustained and epic Air Test. In fact, almost every route one this wall has a healthy smattering of glue, enhancements, and manufactured pockets. If you put it in the back of your mind, the climbing offers awesome movement and lot of rock. Wings Wall is a beautiful streaked wall with a lot offer. Wings of Desire is a mandatory tick, with a hotly debated grade. Throw your vote in the hat whether it`s an 11b or 11c! It`s neighbors are some of the best 12+`s in all of Skaha. Despite being slightly overhung, don`t expect a techy cake-walk. Most have some powerful cruxes on nicely featured stone.

    Queensland > Flinders Peak > Flinders Cave

    Flinders cave is a modern discovery indeed. The cave hosts a great deal of obscenely steep, hard routes. Nicknamed “27 Heaven”- the climbing is upside down ceiling thuggery- which translates to be very physical and relentless. 'The Secret Cave' or ‘Flinders Cave’ is sixty metres high, but from twenty to fifty metres overhanging with the main wall being about twenty metres height at 60°- 80°. As Cameron Fairburn writes- “We had found the steepest terrain in QLD, or I should say rediscovered. We found a line of old 8mm hardware down the right wall of the cave that belonged to Frey Yule. We think he checked out the cave about five years previously but then moved interstate. The cave is SSW facing, so no sun all year round and only a 40min drive from 'Brisbane'. Unfortunately, there is also the 2.5km, 40min uphill walk in as well. The rock is solid volcanic trachyte with formations uncommon in Queensland; it's a mixture of fused blocks, huecos, crystallised slopers and hard crimps - the holds can be quite sharp. Some of the easier routes like 'The Nightmare of Milky Joe' (23) and 'Never Ask the Moon' (22) are super-fun cut-loose jug fests. Early in the piece, Glen established 'Wet Jigsaw Puzzle' (25) a short pump fest that climbs out of the steepest part of the wall. To add to this he climbed 'King of the Mods' (27), adding to a huge range of 27’s to come. Then the numbers rolled, I freed my project after my food was spiked 'Like a Man on Pepperoni' (27), possibly the steepest climb in 'Queensland'. That was until Glen equipped his, an 80° blank arête project, 'A Space Odyssey' 25m 30 or 5.13c”. 'The Secret Cave' consists of two developed areas: the steep main wall and a right hand wall which, although not as steep as the main wall, offers some challenging climbing. 'Terminus of Desire' (25) climbs from under the large overhang. This route will be used to access the steeper upper wall which has the potential for a couple of super hard routes. With all this new development Ross returned to develop what he hoped would be a nice easy sub-20 warm up. He ended up establishing 'Finger Tips and Mountain Tops' (23), an intricate crimp-fest climbing above the lip of this right-hand buttress. Ross then established 'Song and Dance Man' (27) a steep juggy start into a hard crimper sequence. Glen the power monkey campused his way to glory on Backstroke of the West (27) while another buddy of ours Antoine Moussette battled scorpion-eating spiders on one of the best 5.12c’s or 26’s in Qld “The French Connection' . There is still so much more to do. Hard unclimbed projects, the undeveloped upper wall and the central cave section as well as some creative batman starts. 'The Secret Cave' has proved to be a valuable asset to 'Queensland' climbing, not only in the unique steep terrain, but also in the addition of ever increasing harder sport climbs in 'Queensland'. When to go: All day, any day. Providing you can handle the heat on the walk-in.

    Wing night

    Climb all the 'wings' routes at skaha in a day

    Island of Buyan

    A collection of boulder problems i desire to send.

    Go Back For The Send

    These are the routes that I've hopped on out of curiosity and desire to go back and get the redpoint.

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