Nestled in the woods off the east side of Route 73 (across from Chapel Pond) is a great, little crag with several quality routes. The aptly named Creature Wall hosts a range of climbing from 5.5 to 5.10, and offers several routes referencing Steven King novels, such as "Christine", "Firestarter", "Pet Cemetery", and "Cujo". This cliff has the highest concentration of 5.8s (7 total) in Keene Valley, so if you are looking to test your meddle at said grade, look no further. The cliff sits among a thick, forested hillside below Washbowl and is oriented toward the west. As a result, it offers shade in the morning and warm afternoons. To compliment this, all the climbs are single pitch, thus offering a nice option for those wanting to take it down a notch and enjoy a "mellow" day at the crag. The climbing is a healthy mixture of thin face and vertical crack climbing (from thin fingers to paw-swallowing handcracks), with the majority of the routes clocking in at around the 5.7 to 5.9 range. This is not a crag to visit when it rains, nor can you expect it to dry out quickly after it does rain. On nice weekends in the summer and fall, expect to have some neighbors at this cliff. Because of its proximity to the road, and the ease of toproping, it is occasionally the site of guided groups. This cliff is also along the approach trail to the Washbowl Cliffs, so you may also see some traffic from people climbing at the crags above you. Enjoy the climbing here for its quality of cracks, variety of movement, and beautiful views from the top of the cliff.

Red Rocks is composed of a three-thousand-foot thick escarpment of Aztec Sandstone, which has weathered into a series of ten major canyons which drain from west to east. This rock is generally well-bonded, being more solid than that found in the other great sandstone areas of the west, such as Zion or Canyonlands. Another major difference is that much of the rock is covered with a thin layer of desert varnish which on many of the faces, has partially weathered to lave behind a sea or good incut edges. it is these edges which allow routes like "Dream of Wild Turkeys", "Eagle Dance", and "Crimson Chrysalis" to climb such impressive features at a reasonable standard. in general, the unvarnished white and red rock can be soft, sandy and rounded in its natural state, although it cleans up well on popular routes to give very enjoyable climbing. Especially on some of the north-facing walls where the varnish has resisted weathering and there are far fewer face holds. on these walls the long, clean, crack and corner systems provide some of the best climbing routes in Red Rocks. - Red Rocks, Jerry Handren

These mountains are made up of multiple thin fins shooting out towards the road leaving beautiful canyons of limestone climbing on the North and South faces of each canyon. All climbing is within a half hour hike, much of it is 5 minutes from the road. The area is well known for the high concentration of low grade, bolted multi-pitch climbing.

Niagara Glen is the largest developed bouldering area in Southern Ontario. While it's just a few miles from the touristy chaos that is Niagara Falls, it's a world apart. Hundreds of boulders lie clustered between the cliff and river in a serene setting. With over seven hundred established problems, ranging from easy to V ridiculously hard, the Glen will have you coming back again and again. The Glen offers a mix of pocketed overhangs, thin crimpy faces and slopey sandstone. The rock quality and landings vary greatly throughout. The area has been climbed for decades and unfortunately the dolomite polishes easily, so many of the classics will feel nearly frictionless. See [Niagara Glen Climbing](https://niagaraglenclimbing.ca) for more info, particularly for those looking to make their first visit or still relatively unfamiliar with the glen. It is recommended to purchase the [Niagara Glen Bouldering Guidebook](https://www.mec.ca/en/product/6002-426/Ontario-Bouldering-the-Niagara-Glen) for the easiest navigation around the crag, as the free topos can be quite confusing if it is your first time out. Free online guide: http://www.topout.org/static/pdf/NiagaraGlen.pdf Conditions Reports: https://www.facebook.com/groups/181846299284018/ ACCESS NOTES: Permits are mandatory. Park staff are monitoring daily. Limit your group size & keep your belongings neatly collected to minimize impact on areas surrounding boulders. Stay on trail - no shortcuts, please!

Looking for old school, technical, thin, sandbags? Barrier is the place for you! An original hotspot of climbing in the area. Mostly bolted, although the odd trad or mixed line still exists.

This sub 90degree, bullet grey, bulge of limestone hosts a good collection of thin, technical routes that are tucked away in a lush forest. At this crag a good, intricate face climbing background will be of much more use than a winter of hangboarding.

Everything contained from the top of the hill (up from Jolly Green Giant, west of Mushroom) all the way to the east end of the Shield boulder. Everything East of this up to where things thin out is Karst valley.

Single cliff that faces North and does not get sun. The rock offers moderate to advanced climbing and is solid basalt with thin seams. Routs are mostly sport.

Features thin & technical routes with the occasional powerful move.

Short, high quality routes with some fun roof moves, jugs and thin face climbing. Most routes can be accessed for TR

Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

There is a large split at the top of the rock, followed by a thin crack.

This three-sided crag sits on the ridgecrest that seperates the Screeching Wall conyon from Muscle Beach. The position is pleasant and the out-of-the-way nature helps thin crowds, but there's not a very high concentration of pitches here in any specific genre. A couple of moderate cracks are worthy, but the best reason to trudge up to this spot is the small batch of technical 5.0-5.11 sport climbs on the south and east faces. If you send them all, have a go at the crag's crimpy testpiece, 'Peaches' (5.12a). Conditions: This crag has three different aspects - east, south and west - so you can find sun or shade at any time of the day. There's not much in the way of belay shade at any of the three walls.