Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff – at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long. Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) – the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the “Great Gully”). To the left of the “Great Gully” is a smaller wall called “Mid-Wall”. The “Mid Wall” is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the “North Gully”. The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well. There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950’s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook “Central BC Rock” by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere. The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand. Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 “Icy BC”. New Route Development Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval. Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays. Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger. Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.

Baatara Gorge is a natural sinkhole in Mount Lebanon. The waterfall drops 255 m into the Baatara Pothole, a cave of Jurassic limestone. Avaatara - the only route in this sector - is the hardest sport route in Lebanon and the first 9a established in the Middle East! The route is in the shade and tops out from the sinkhole. Best to climb here mid-week as weekends are crowded with tourists. Refer to Lebanon Rock Climbing Guidebook by Jad el Khoury and George Emil (2021). The book is available for sale at Bluearth Lebanon in Bourj Hammoud.

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_victor_rrock.html How to get there Coming from Revelstoke: Drive along the Trans Canada highway (Hwy1) towards west (Vancouver). Once you crossed the Columbia River Bridge and reached the turnoff for Hwy 23 S (traffic light), start counting the kilometers as you keep driving west along Hwy 1. At km 13.8 you come to a paved truck pullout, directly in between the highway and Victor Lake (second lake west of Revelstoke). This is a good place to park your car. Please do not park at the gravel pullout 280 meters east, dangerous for oncoming fast moving traffic. Coming from Vernon, Kamloops or Sicamous: Drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards east (Calgary). Once you are past the prominent red hotel at Three Valley Gap, keep driving towards east for another few kilometers. This will bring you across a bridge and further to the Victor Lake (third lake east of Sicamous). Park at the prominent paved truck pullout. Approach From the paved truck pullout in between the highway and Victor Lake walk for 280 meters along Hwy 1 towards east. This brings you to a gravel pullout (don’t park your car there). Cross the highway to its north side (caution fast driving cars and trucks). There walk along an overgrown road for approximately 80 meters towards east (historical wagon road from Sicamous to Revelstoke). From this point, walk up the steep trail to the base of the Victor Lake Wall. For the routes "Return of the Osprey", "Trans Canada" and "Pan America" branch off to the right shortly prior the actual wall (sign). For all other routes keep following the main trail aiming straight up and slightly climber left. 15 minutes from the highway. Descent for all Victor Lake Wall Routes From the top of the Victor Lake Wall walk down the marked trail towards west and eventually in south direction. This brings you within 30 to 35 minutes back to your car at the Victor Lake and the Trans Canada Highway. Just as on the Squamish Grand Wall or any route on Yamnuska, bring a super light pack and light approach shoes, climb one of the many grand routes and after the climb enjoy the quick walk down back to the highway. The Goat Ledge The Goat Ledge is the prominent large ledge separating the entire upper wall from the lower wall. The Victor Ledge allows climbers to bail from any route as you walk towards west, along this large ledge to the Ninth Symphony / The Mission. After you arrive at the fourth belay anchor of The Mission, rappel straight down the lower part of the Ninth Symphony and the Baldwin Start. (35m, 30m, 28m, 28m). In between Return of the Osprey and Restless Spirits is a fixed rope.

It is forbiden to climb there for the moment... it's a 380 meters cliff height and about a km wide, there is still a lot of climb to open on the wall since the first route has been open in the 70's... the only guide book for this region is ''le guide Québécois de l'escalade'' par Yannick Girard. You can also find a few route on mountain project.

Sources: http://hongkongclimbing.com/blacks-link/ Guidebook by Francis Haden and Rich Cuncliffe Black Crag is an easily accessible south-facing cliff of enjoyable HK island broken-slab climbing with a fantastic view out over the south of the island. It is two hundred metres below and left of the existing traditionally protected climbing on Blacks Link Outcrop, both easily visible from Blacks Link. Note: Blacks Link Outcrop is the prominent crag with an overhanging nose to the upper right on the skyline. There are known to be two existing traditional routes on Black Crag. Based on available information and the vintage of climbing equipment found in the bushes at the base of the crag, they are presumed to have originally been climbed in the 1970's. The names of these climbs have not come to light, so they are named as ORIGINAL ROUTE and RIGHT HAND ROUTE in recognition of their early ascents. In general, Black Crag is a low grade climbing venue, with the difficulty graded between F5 and F6a for most climbs. As such it is expected that Black Crag will become one of the most popular venues on Hong Kong Island for the ease of access and comparatively large number of similar grade routes adjacent to one another. The rock quality is particularly good, the routes of reasonable length and they are well equipped with marine grade stainless steel bolts and rappel rings.

Cannon Cliff is the tallest and most respected cliff in New England. The climbs are long, the weather is bad, and the rock is exfoliating. Every climber who heads up to do a route on Cannon understands that the undertaking is a considerable one. This is not to say that the routes are bad, however. The popular routes ascend pristine granite and can be over ten pitches long. Just don't stray from your chosen route, as you may find yourself in one of Cannon's many heavily eroded vertical gullies. Rockfall is a common occurrence on the cliff. The Old Man, a natural outline of a face in the rock and New Hampshire's famous state symbol, fell off the cliff a few years back. An entire pitch, the Whaleback Crack, parted from the face in the 1990's and created a swath of fresh talus at the base.

Access this route from the anchors of When the Sensei is Away, the Boys Will Play 5.10b. A tricky start leads to chill slab climbing. While doing one final brush before the FA’s Seanathon knocked a bunch of dirt in his eyes and climbed this route with 1 eye closed.

Small remote South-west facing crag. Mostly trad but it has a couple of sports route. Don't miss the classic sport route c'est la fête.

This awesome smaller, steeper, venue is found at the eastern terminus of the Ostraland cliff line 30m right (west) of The Far Right sector of the Painted Wall. The cliff had only one completed route until the fall of 2022 and housed another of Larry Ostrander’s recently rediscovered old shunt/top rope projects. The first lead climb at this sector was called Welcome to the Dark Side. It was the last route established during the busy development season of 2020 on the shady side of the Moose Mountain Crags and was included in the recent Bow Valley Sport guide out in 2021. Late in the fall of 2022 Ross Suchy added two new 30 lines. One called Let There Be Light, a redevelopment of a lost Larry Ostrander shunt problem. Inspired by this new interest in the cliff. Andy Genereux with an intense two week effort added another seven new lines left of his original climb Welcome to the Dark Side in the late spring of 2023. This cliff features, steepish climbing overall, with most routes having defined crux sections of shorter duration. Simply a very fun place to climb..! Another bonus is all the routes generally stay dry during the rain giving it another great feature besides the all day shade this wall provides.

*There is ongoing route setting in this area. Make your presence known as you walk across the boulder field and be mindful of possible rock fall from trundling. The Mt. Sentinel Climbs are located on the tall bluff on the north east side of Castlegar. They are located above Grad wall. Climbing development on Mount Sentinel started in 2020. There are several other routes currently being developed but the steepness of the rock and blank areas has slowed route completion somewhat. Beware of any development going on and potential trundling from above. When in doubt make your presence known to those possibly working high above. This cliff gets lots of sun and is a perfect place to climb in the spring, fall or a dry winter.

This spectacular lookout trail above the West Arm of Kootenay Lake looking over the city of Nelson is one of the finest hiking spots in the area. With a huge amount of volunteer effort from several locals, it certainey is a work of art. As you clamber up the thousands of rock steps, it will surely give you a sense of how much work was required to bring this trail to its current state. Now, combine this awesome hiking trail with a fantastic Granite Sport Climb and you have an adventure in the making! Although only one route exists, its exposed position over the valley below, the quality of the climbing and the beautiful rock, make for a very fine outing. You are literally belaying and climbing with 500 ft. of air below you and the moves on the route are sure to give you a rush! The climb itself faces south, dries quickly due to the exposed nature of the rock, always seems to have a breeze and goes into the shade late afternoon (making it perfect in the warmer months for an after work session). Besides a rack of draws and a 60m rope, you will want to bring a helmet and a sling of sorts to anchor yourself while belaying. Make sure you look for the amazing “best seat in the house” rock at the base which offers a fine (and comfortable) seat overlooking the lake (and a good place to gear up).

East facing crag on the shore of the Bow River along the hiking trail below Tunnel Mountain. Left of the wall is another short crag with the first 5.11 gear route in Banff called Mini Gonda. The Wave is about 50 metres to the right and up a short hill. The rock is textured with chert, vertical to steep. ~10 minutes from the car, great views and well bolted. If for some reason you need to rappel in to get gear or something, just hike left past the Mini Gonda route and up a faint trail and back right until at a large tree that you can rappel to any anchor. Not good for top-roping, but there is top access. Heads up for loose rock if you're rappelling in.

ƛ̓əpustoʔas is the Lik̓ʷala name for "place to climb up", and was kindly offered as a name for this cragging area by the local Ligwilda’xw people. Just 20min north of Campbell River, these lovely andesite cliffs (hard, grainy basalt), offer climbs that are mostly near vertical or tilted a little bit either way. The majority are fully bolted lines, but there are some worthwhile gear lines too. There are over 30 pitches of climbing so far, from 5.6-5.12, with the majority being in the 5.9-5.11 range. There are many 2-pitch climbs, as the crags are each around 50m in height. They face SW, so are excellent Spring/Fall and cooler summer day cliffs. Thanks to the Ligwilda’xw people; the We Wai Kai, Wei Wai Kum, and Kwiakah First Nations. We are grateful for the opportunity to recreate on your lands (the crags are located on "Crown" land). Thanks go out to the many climbers who have lent a hand in route work, trail work, sign-building, and route testing ;)

Route from 5.9 to 5.14. From vertical to some good steep climbing. One of the best sport crag in Québec. A nice 20-30 min approach gets you to the base of the cliff.

Some of Ontario's nicer limestone climbing located right on Georgian Bay. Awesome views and a range of route difficulties from 5.10 - 5.14-. Requires knowledge of natural anchor building, rappelling, and multi-pitch belay techniques. Not beginner friendly. The few sport moderates on the Latvian ledge were removed June 2020.

Lakit offers some great, Pumpy Climbing just 15mins from Cranbrook. Here you will find 1 pitch sport routes of slopey ledges, crimps and big bubble jugs that are perfect to flame up your forearms in a dreadfully short amount of time this are offers routes from 5.7 to 5.14. Bolts can be quite rusty on some route.

Parc Dufresne, a beautiful area with nice anorthosite in the Laurentians. Considered one of the birthplaces of climbing in the province and region. Expect historical, sandbagged test pieces and memorable classics. Two new and detailed topos (route and bouldering) are available at the parc entrance. Mostly trad routes but some decent sport lines as well.

This crag is on private land. While they tolerate climbing at the moment, the landowners have requested that no route information be published online. https://bayareaclimberscoalition.org/2021/12/10/gold-wall-access-status/ As such, PLEASE DO NOT LOG ROUTES HERE.

Queen creek climbing is volcanic in nature, and requires pulling on many sharp pockets. It has a few sport climbing zones and the main bouldering area in the heart of the area. Sport climbing in queen creek requires short steep approaches and route finding ability on frail rock. As it is not great quality these areas do not see much traffic outside of locals. However, if in the area there are many climbs that are worth while of finding and climbing as there are some quality lines to be climbed. Bouldering in the creek is the home of some nice problems, ranging in size, steepness and difficulty. These guides do not yet accurately describe the amount of climbing to be had in these areas.

Limestone sport crag located roughly 10 miles south of Benson, AZ, and north of Whetstone, AZ. Over 100 routes and still more to be developed. Some excellent 12's and 13's. Huge cave. Cliff is entirely south facing and gets full sun. Is good if its too cold at The Farmhouse. Free BLM camping is found along the approach jeep track off highway 90. No services. Better camping is found in Las Cienegas NCA a little further south along route 82 closer to The Farmhouse.

This area is know for having the first 5.14 established in the province. It is located on La Montagne du collège. There is 2 main area located on the west and east end of the mountain. The west part see the most traffic as it contains a better concentration of hard sport route. The topo, in french only, date a few year back and doesn't have most of the boulders problems that are spread throughout the mountain. To get the topo: http://qc.drtopo.com/north-america/canada/quebec/la-pocatiere

Lower Arrow Lake near Castlegar, B.C. Micro climate similar to the South Okanagan. Epic boulders reminiscent of Icicle Creek in Leavenworth. Lots of route potential and many small high quality crags. Sunny long seasons, and unbearable in the summer unless your climbing at Tulip Falls.

Mt. Habrich is a granite horn east of Squamish. Despite a fairly lengthy approach, some routes on Mt. Habrich are quite popular with with multiple parties not uncommon on summer weekends. The rock is well featured and generally very good quality, and the views are spectacular both on route and from the summit.

Rock Type: Sandstone Average Height: 7 metres Height Range: 6-10 metres IMPORTANT NOTE: All climbs are graded using English Technical Grading. These routes are not to be Trad climbed, but to be Top-Roped, as the rock is too soft to maintain form from multiple gear placements. When top roping make sure the rope does not have contact with the rock, as the sandstone will rapidly degrade through friction from ropes. This can be avoided by extending a sling over the top out and attaching a Krab to the end of the sling with the rope. At no point should you abseil off the top of a route, and in any case, lowering off should be avoided unless necessary.

The most popular rock climbing area in the West Kootenays. Easy access, great lines and good rock. This area is owned and maintained by The Association of West Kootenay Rock Climbers. Please consider buying a TAWKROC membership ( tawkroc.org/) for only $10 to help support crag maintenance and route development all over the West Kootenays.

The fortress is the first large wall that one might encounter in skaha. It is easily accessible from the lowest trail in the lower parking lot. It has many classic lines including "plum line" a definite must do; crimping route on the predominate white part of the wall. The fortress has many styles of climbing from steep to slab, making it a popular destination wall for the area.

Great White is a large west-facing cliff band located in Sunny Valley. This is a must visit when in Skaha. The sun rolls around and starts baking the cliffs between 1:30-2:30 in midsummer, allowing 3 seasons of sending. HHH and the intro walls feature some pleasant routes at a variety of grades. Painted Bird is the pick of the crop on this right side. Raven`s nest, despite some of it`s routes being less traveled is more than worthy of a sampling. Make sure to climb the mega classic Test of The Ironman. Teen wall is a huge 40 meter wall with some inspiring endurance routes. A short, angled slab at the base of the wall is the only drawback. If you are not too much of a purist and chipped holds don`t trigger you, make sure to check out the sustained and epic Air Test. In fact, almost every route one this wall has a healthy smattering of glue, enhancements, and manufactured pockets. If you put it in the back of your mind, the climbing offers awesome movement and lot of rock. Wings Wall is a beautiful streaked wall with a lot offer. Wings of Desire is a mandatory tick, with a hotly debated grade. Throw your vote in the hat whether it`s an 11b or 11c! It`s neighbors are some of the best 12+`s in all of Skaha. Despite being slightly overhung, don`t expect a techy cake-walk. Most have some powerful cruxes on nicely featured stone.

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_waterworld_rrock.html Waterworld---- 11.9 km N from mica creek turnoff in Revelstoke Waterworld is a unique and exciting place to climb, all climbs start right out of the deep waters of the Revelstoke Lake. An adventurous style of climbing on steep enjoyable cliffs. All three cliffs face west and have a total height of up to 90 meters. The Waterworld has three large cliffs, Gilligans Island, Voyage Cliff and Gangplank. All three cliffs are accessible from Hwy 23 North with a short walk and several rappels, or for the more adventurous climbers, a canoe paddle up the scenic lake to the start of the steep climbs. Climbing at Waterworld is definitely more serious then on shorter crags such as Begbie Bluffs or Shaketown. Once you have rappelled you are committed and have to be able to climb at least the easiest route on the crag to make it back up... unless you plan to hitch a ride with an occasional fishing-boat. Further, good rope handling and rappelling skills are important to safely climb at Waterworld.

This area is popular among beginners and families because most of the route are 5.8 and less on good rock. The moderate approach and easy top-rope setup is also a plus. The area is (or will) in the Parc of mount Orford and is closed from late autumn to 1st of may (check with the park).