Sunshine Rock (orginally sunshine slabs before the crag delivered steeper climbs) is a medium sized crag from 5.4 to 5.11+, ranging in very technical face climbs, to powerful short bouldery routes. The routes are generally dirty but have sections of excellent rock. Therefore take it for what it is, it is the closest crag in approach and the rock quality is excellent compared to other polished beginner crags.
A very nice selection of hike in granitic boulders that are located near the town of Gibson’s on the Sunshine Coast.
One of Skaha's most popular walls is a soaring sweep of orange-streaked gneiss that rises above a jumble of large boulders. The flanks of this crag host a decent collection of quality 5.10-5.11 sport climbs, but the real prize is the central wall, a sector lush with intricate and physical 5.12-5.13 lines that stretch up to 25 metres or more. Oddly, the lowest layer of this wall is crumbly kitty litter, but the routes work around it and it doesn't seem to diminish their quality. The base of Doctors' Wall is a popular place to lounge and, on most any weekend, you'll have to trade burns on your project with a variety of climbers. For those looking for friendly moderates, check out the nice collection of short sport climbs in the Fern Gully boulders below the amin wall. There's something here for everyone... Conditions: Doctors' Wall faces due east and gets blasted by the morning sun, which is great in the cold weather. The pitches between the boulders in Fern Gully stay much cooler and get limited sunshine, some not all. It's possible to climb a number of routes here in light rain since the crag overhangs and there are "rain" anchors below the upper slabs. Use the photo topo to see which pitches work best.
For quality 5.9-5.10 face climbs on compact, vertical stone, the left side of Kids' Cliff is hard to beat. This crag is a bit of a journey to reach, but the lengthy trek greatly increases your chances of finding solitude during weekends and busy holidays. The wall is nestled in a shallow draw alongside the west face of Cave Hill and the proximity to that formation allows for a post-climb exploration of its unique slot caves if you're into that sort of thing. If not, Move rightward along Kids' Cliff to give your fingers a thorough drubbing on the crag's harder routes, worthwhile pitches that range from 5.11 to mid- 5.12! Conditions: Nether Land and Kids' Cliff both face due east and get blasted by morning sunshine. Kids' Cliff has a few trees at the base that provide some shade relief, but Nther Land does not.
Small granite crag right in the middle of the town of Sechelt. A total of 14 routes - 8 trad, 4 TR and 2 projects. Most routes feature prominent cracks and relatively featureless faces, so jams and lie backs are frequent.
Tons of potential for new problems here on north facing slope below big wall that has definite route potential.
Across river from River Canyon crag
Very short approach, pretty setting and some problems dry very quickly. Be on lookout for loose rock, traffic will help clean lines up nicely.
Going for sunshine!
The runner up of each grade: The Swarm - Bishop, Direction - Bishop, The Mandala - Bishop The Hatchling - Rocklands Focus - Hueco No Troublems - Squamish Checkerboard - Bishop Guns of Navarone - Hueco Seven Spanish Angels - Bishop Creaking Heights - Rocklands No Excuse for Porn Hair - Squamish The Solarium - Bishop The Sleeping Lady - Leavenworth Hershey's Symphony - Hueco Sunshine Naked - Bishop