Do you love being low to the ground and pulling really hard moves? Well my friend, do I have the place for you!!! Low Ball Land or alternatively The boulder field, is located about 100 metres back from Channel Drive and features some really unique climbing that is both powerful and unorthodox, a combination that results in some extremely fun climbs. Low balls tend to earn their grades. This is due to the fact that your packing a v-whatever into 4 to 6 moves. So typically a v5 low ball will have harder moves then a v5 high ball, so establishing yourself in a grade here will make you a stronger all-around boulder.
Overall this cliff is a newer moderate warm-up venue for climbers going to the Moose Mountain Crags. The Beach Front Buttress was fully developed in the spring of 2019. Until recently it was the first climbable cliff encountered on the way into the area. There are thirteen routes on this sunny south facing aspect. The crag is tucked in behind a treed shoulder with generally good sun exposure and it’s out of the wind for the most part. Overall it hosts moderate climbing (ten routes are in the 5.10 range or less) making for an ideal stop to warm up on before heading up valley to try some of the harder fare on offer. This small crag provides a pleasant venue to spend the day doing low intensity moderate cragging. The only drawback to these fun routes is the overall height of the cliff at around 20m or less, it simply leaves climbers wanting more. In spring/late winter this small buttress catches the sun roughly an hour before the Moose Patch sector located another 5 minutes up the road. Stopping off here allows climbers to start their day bit sooner. This crag is usually out of the wind and a sun trap making it ideal for late winter and early spring rock climbing and fighting with marginal temperatures. Named after the unusual sand beach found below the cliff on the northern flank of Canyon Creek. The venue makes for a very fun hang. The creekbed was dry during the three weeks of development in March and early April of 2019. However, later in the year be aware that water levels can change rapidly and crag access may require proceeding upstream crossing over the bridge and then working back along the north bank of Canyon Creek during spring runoff or following heavy rains from intense summer thunder storms. All climbs on this crag are well protected, most require six or seven draws plus clips for the anchor. All top anchors are from two staggered ring-bolts. Note: There are some very low first bolts on some routes along with a couple, two-bolt base anchors detailed on the photo-topo. These low height bolts are intended for base anchors to back up tied off trees to allow lead rope soloing on these climbs. Please do not remove these lower hangers. Feel free to clip these bolts while leading or ignore them. Please don’t remove or vandalize this low hanging hardware.
Everything contained from the top of the hill (up from Jolly Green Giant, west of Mushroom) all the way to the east end of the Shield boulder. Everything East of this up to where things thin out is Karst valley.
A lone karst in Ha Long Bay. Gorgeous!
The Acephale Lower Wall is the first wall after leaving the creek bed. The Lower Wall is home to slightly easier routes than the Upper Wall, with most of the best routes found in the low 5.12 to low 5.13 range.
Just past the main tuff boulders, down by the river is a great basalt cliff band. Only climbable when the river is low. Hence the name.
Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session
From Mountain Project: The Gateway Boulders are a series of low faces, prows, and boulders along the Gateway Trail of Catoctin Mountain Park. Most of the climbs are low enough to be considered boulder problems, with overhangs and slab faces constituting the majority of the terrain. Many rocks and seemingly obvious lines exist here with few recorded ascents.
These mountains are made up of multiple thin fins shooting out towards the road leaving beautiful canyons of limestone climbing on the North and South faces of each canyon. All climbing is within a half hour hike, much of it is 5 minutes from the road. The area is well known for the high concentration of low grade, bolted multi-pitch climbing.
'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.
The rock quality here is the best in the St. George area - basalt with a shiny, slick black desert patina. Holds are mostly pockets with sharp edges. The rock itself is very low friction. The routes are short , 30-40’ on the sunny side and 40-50’ on the shady side. The climbing is very good with something for everyone, both trad and sport and 5.8-5.13. If the routes were longer this would be a destination crag.
Lighthouse Park is a top-roping area with climbing limited to Juniper Point and immediate area. Bolting ban in effect. These restrictions are in place to maintain a low impact and good relations with West Van Parks. Please stay on trails, and do not add bolts to existing routes.
This is a beautiful natural area full of great trails for running and mountain biking, with incredible views of the ocean and the Bay Area in general. Good, low key van camping throughout. The bouldering is meh, but the setting is great if you're stopping to explore the mountain.
One of the premier venues for hard sport climbing in North America. Routes at Upper Wall span in difficulty from low 5.12 to as hard as you want.
Low elevation site to the south of main crags. Good road access. Type of Climbing: Sport/Trad Sun Aspect: Afternoon Sun
A set of south- and east-facing granite bluffs near the golf course between Agassiz and Harrison Hot Springs. The climbing features slab, crack and face climbing on grippy, fine-grained stone featured with many xenolithic inclusions which weather to give pockets of all size from monodoight to head sized. The Harrison Bluffs saw most of its traffic in the 1990's, but popularity died out somewhat and many routes became overgrown. Recently (2006+) climbers have been cleaning the area again to improve the mossy state of several climbs. Also several new routes are being cleaned. The rock in the area is very solid granite and it offers many nice slab and crack climbs ranging from 5.8'ish and up. The developement of some boulders on the East and West sides of the bluffs has been on going since this revitalization of the area. Though the landings can be challenging there are some instant classics in here well worth the time and effort. The climbing is at its best between March and November but is low-elevation enough to be good on sunny days through the winter. In general, weekdays are pretty quiet and weekends see up to a half dozen parties climbing. The range of grades is generally 5.8 and up and there are climbs up to 6 pitches long, plus extensive bouldering.
South Mountain is the United States largest municipal park. It is full of monzonite boulders that are mostly unclimable, however there are few good quality problems for those that are willing to hike and look hard. The boulders are mostly low balls but some are tall and proud. There is also some potential for harder and higher problems for the next generation.
Sources: http://hongkongclimbing.com/blacks-link/ Guidebook by Francis Haden and Rich Cuncliffe Black Crag is an easily accessible south-facing cliff of enjoyable HK island broken-slab climbing with a fantastic view out over the south of the island. It is two hundred metres below and left of the existing traditionally protected climbing on Blacks Link Outcrop, both easily visible from Blacks Link. Note: Blacks Link Outcrop is the prominent crag with an overhanging nose to the upper right on the skyline. There are known to be two existing traditional routes on Black Crag. Based on available information and the vintage of climbing equipment found in the bushes at the base of the crag, they are presumed to have originally been climbed in the 1970's. The names of these climbs have not come to light, so they are named as ORIGINAL ROUTE and RIGHT HAND ROUTE in recognition of their early ascents. In general, Black Crag is a low grade climbing venue, with the difficulty graded between F5 and F6a for most climbs. As such it is expected that Black Crag will become one of the most popular venues on Hong Kong Island for the ease of access and comparatively large number of similar grade routes adjacent to one another. The rock quality is particularly good, the routes of reasonable length and they are well equipped with marine grade stainless steel bolts and rappel rings.
Larger Granite boulder in Saltair on a cobble beach. Better done at Low Tide. Be respectful of the neighbors, public beach but close to houses.
Up behind naramata. Some low V boulders and good sport routes
A post-industrial canyon (a Bell Mobility cell base station was removed in 2016) with low angle west-facing slabs perfect for beginners and steeper east-facing walls.
Source: http://hongkongclimbing.com/guide/cape-collinson/ Cape Collinson features approximately 55 sport routes distributed over 3 sectors. The crag is located south east of Chai Wan on Hong Kong Island. The cliffs face a variety of directions therefore it is possible to remain in the sun or the shade throughout the day. Aside from Bunker Wall, which is non-tidal, access to the main cliff (The Beach) is affected by the tide. The special ops cave on the main cliff is cut off at high tide and whilst the main cliff can be escaped from, by using the hand-line, your choice of routes will be limited. The Zawn is only affected by isolated high tides at certain times of the year however climbing is still possible on the non tidal area below the access point. Tide times and heights can be easily checked at The Hong Kong Observatory – select tide predictions for Quarry Bay. Cape Collinson will appeal to the broader climbing community as the majority of routes are in the low to mid F6s with a handful of routes in the mid to upper F7s. The area and the climbing have an adventurous aspect and attention is drawn to the fact that as a new climbing area, small amounts of loose rock may be encountered. Climbers and anyone else in the vicinity of a climbing area are recommended to wear helmets. Routes have been equipped with safety and convenience in mind to ensure that climbers will enjoy the area and can attempt harder routes without needing to abandon gear should it not be possible to gain the anchors. Routes are equipped to prevent the creation of dangerous run outs between bolts that could contribute to a ground fall. Additionally the intention is to provide another climbing area in Hong Kong which has routes suitable for climbers learning to lead.
Sunset Slab is a nice high piece of rock located below Evening Wall on the downhill side of the Beech;s Mountain trail. There are two parts to the crag a higher lefthand wall and a slightly shorter righthand wall. As you usually arrive at the top of the crag to get set up keep the directions in mind as you look down the rock from above. The climbs are pretty good, low angle but all with fun moves and mostly solid rock.
This venue is roughly 300m wide and is one of the older sectors at the Moose Mountain Crags. It has a south facing aspect and hosts some of the earliest lead problems developed in the area. Until recently nearly all the climbs in these sectors were 5.11 & 5.12 and most offered up sustained technical face climbing with burly bits. Some of the earliest climbs found here have a slightly more spacious bolt spacing than the newer modern standard at the Moose Mountain Crags. For winter options this cliff has south exposure and usually comes into the sun about 10:30-11:00. Things get decidedly warm if the sun is shining. A great winter crag from end of January going forward. There is more wind exposure at this part of the cliff. For the best results while winter cragging remember it needs to be sunny, plus two or three, and no wind and you will have t-shirt conditions. In the fall it has sun until the end of October. Best avoided in the darker months from November till the end of January as the sun is too low on the horizon during these winter months unless its really warm.
A small collection of problems. Lots of warm ups. Shady. Keep a low profile.
Introduction: The Glen Lake crag offers relatively easy access, close proximity to Greater Victoria, and caters to beginner and intermediate climbers with routes ranging from 5.7 - 5.11- , from low-angle to slightly overhanging with at least one overhanging pump fest. The view from the top, back towards Victoria, is spectacular. The rock is good quality weathered basalt – lots of friction and many edges and flakes. It is located 5 minutes’ drive from the Westshore Town Centre in Langford, or 15-20 minute drive from downtown Victoria. Notes: • Hundreds of hours have been put in to the development of this crag. Yet, there are still plenty of undeveloped walls, ie. Black Beauty, at Glen Lake that we would love people to come out and develop. Our hope is that anyone wanting to put routes up here reaches out to us because we believe that we have a very good understanding of the area and could be of great help to you. • A helmet is suggested – the rock is great, but because the routes are new they still need some mileage. There is also a fair bit of loose rocks at the top, much like the South Cliffs of Mt. Wells. • The area is mostly East facing (slightly South-facing), and gets morning to mid-afternoon sun. • The routes with a star beside their name, are the best in my opinion. For more info and a free guidebook find us on Facebook - Glen Lake Crag. https://www.facebook.com/groups/299312767070589/ edit: The Facebook page is still active as of 2024, though the guide is out of date since 2019. The most updated guide is on the Glen Lake Crag website. https://www.glenlakecrag.ca/
If you are driving across the country on the Trans Canada Highway, you will travel through a vast expanse of nothing but prairie. Standing Rock, a glacial erratic about an hour from the #1, is definitely not a destination, but it makes a pretty good spot for the traveling boulderer to stretch their legs. The lone boulder is 12-15 feet high and has about 10 problems, ranging from V0 to V5, with a couple of projects that may be harder. Access Standing Rock is a historic site and there are pictographs on the boulder. While there are no access issues, it is best to keep a low profile.
A slab with a number of low-graded but fairly serious routes. Runouts are the name of the game, bring a good head game and a long 80m rope
A list of Squamish problems with more than 3 words in their name. "Low", "Sit", "extension", "direct", "traverse", "variation","Right", "left", etc. do NOT count as words for this list. E.g "Timeless Low Low traverse extension variation right" Only counts as ONE word. I'm missing some, and I'll add more as I find which ones those are.
A few low(ish)-grade problems to work towards in the Peak District.
http://web.archive.org/web/20111030010544/http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/road_worthy/100_best_boulders_in_america/index4.html hawaii pidgin lessons is buddha's belly on this list - not sure of same. the new zero is not on this site it is stood in for on this list by trillium low (holy boulders)
Low balls that are still fun. "Turd" is a term of endearment.
climbs to get on this summer. High hopes, low expectations lol
high hopes, low expectations lol
[1] https://yukonerdownunder.blogspot.com/2013/05/bad-day-low.html [2] http://squamishboulders.ca/squamish-seven-terrors
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