Waimea Bay. A small but fun collection of beach bouldering exists at the famous surf spot. You need those two things. The climbing here is a perfect for beginners. Most of the problems are between VB - V4, but what really makes it special is the fact that you usually don't need a crash pad either. The sand, when it's deep, can be a very safe landing. That said, almost everything is highball (25' in some parts), and the sand can fluctuate as much as six feet in a day from large surf. Falls can be big and exposed rock is common. People can and do get hurt. Waimea Bay bouldering goes back maybe 30+ years. There's a history here, a lot more than can be covered in the few paragraphs of this short description.

Cordova Bay is also known as Timber Lane in Peter Michaux's old guidebook. On Cordova Bay accessed via Timber Lane there are some short bouldering bluffs on the beach. [Area Guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk/edit?usp=sharing) This small area close to town offers several excellent problems on some of the best rock on the island, and a long cliff band that is pretty fun to traverse. The downside to this area is that when the tide is high it is inaccessible, so make sure to time the tides right. You can check the tides for the area at this link: http://www.tides.gc.ca/eng/station?sid=7140

Shut-In Island is located in St. Margaret’s Bay. It is the largest island in the Bay and has attracted visitors for centuries. It is also publicly owned, thus will remain protected and free from any development. Shut-In is like one huge granite boulder that juts up from the ocean floor and is quite a striking sight. Although much of the island is exposed rock, just as much is forested. The top is covered in low lying shrubs such as fox berry bushes making way for unobstructed views of the Bay.

Intro Slettafossen er et stort og utfordrende klatrefelt med ruter fra grad 5 og oppover. Flesteparten av rutene ligger rundt grad 6-7, og alle rutene med unntak av en er boltet. Feltet er todelt, med en høyre og venstre del. Venstre del har de letteste rutene. Høyre del er langt høyere gradert, og her kan selv den mest hardbarkede sportsklatrer få noe å bryne seg på. Feltet i sin helhet og rutene varierer i bratthet, men de fleste rutene har et litt under loddrett parti mot ankeret. Værforhold Beliggenheten nede i dalen gir ikke utpregede solforhold på feltet, men Slettafossen er i likhet med andre klatrefelt på Verma bortskjemt med et noe tørrere klima enn øvrige deler av Romsdalen. Dette gjør at man ofte kan oppleve tåke og regn på Åndalsnes, men flotte klatreforhold på Slettafossen. Veggenes noe varierende bratthet gjør at flesteparten av feltets ruter berøres av regn, selv om de er overhengende. Spesielle forhold Rauma elv og Slettafossen passerer under klatrefeltet. På noen ruter skal man skal bare noen meter opp i veggen før verbal kommunikasjon mellom klatrer og sikrer er vanskelig.

Mount Pope is a popular day-use park among hikers and climbers. There is a 6.5 km hiking trail that leads to the peak and a stunning vista of Stuart Lake. The climbing areas themselves comprise of limestone. The quality of the rock ranges from bullet-hard and featureless-to-blocky-whydidyouboltthis- choss. The climbing usually falls somewhere in the middle. There are some route topos available online, but most of the area requires assistance from a local who knows his or her way around.

[Kris Maclellan's Utgaard Guide](http://www.krismaclellan.com/utgard-boulder/) Website accessible via Internet Archive Wayback Machine as it is currently down: https://web.archive.org/web/20200126220729/http://www.krismaclellan.com/utgard-boulder/ Útgarðar - Outlands This area has been entirely developed by local Kris Maclellan in the summer of 2018, he gave me permission to use his topo and descriptions in this guide but if you’d like more information straight from the source here is a link to the Utgard guide that he put together http://www.krismaclellan.com/utgard-boulder/. Major props to Kris for putting in the time to clean this wall it's a beauty, and certainly took some time and effort. If you head out there consider bringing a wire brush to help maintain it, the moss grows fast but if everyone does a little cleaning, hopefully it won’t ever need to be fully cleaned on rappel again! The Utgard Boulder offers slab bouldering. The wall leans generously in places, so good footwork can lead to fun and easy sending. The wall is also pockmarked with little gouges, which create a range of holds from slopers to mini jugs. There is a horizontal incut crack system, an incredible diagonal line of protruding crystals, and a general "shattered" look to the rock. The pictures of this boulder do not make it seem as tall as it is. Kris reports that it is about 20’ of rope from top to bottom. The delicate feet, and slopey hands up high will definitely get your heart pumping, every route on this wall is a bit of an adventure! From Aidan Nickel's Guide

Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

Was once a quite and secluded area from the main populace where you could find quiet and not many climbers ... ... Chippewa Creek Gorge was formed by glacier movements thousands of years ago. These glaciers exposed outcrops of Shale, Berea Sandstone, and Euclid Bluestone. In the late 1800s the Berea Sandstone and the Euclid Bluestone were quarried for use as building materials. This ended in the early 20th century due to a decreased demand for natural stone for construction. Brecksville Reservation was declared a public park soon after. In the late 1990s the first information about climbing in the park was posted to another rock climbing website. Problems were put up and documented by that generation of climbers, but not everything was posted back then, and the website ended up becoming defunct. Legal access to the park for climbing was problematic. There was a high risk of getting your gear confiscated by park rangers. Around this time, Jeffery Bonatti created a series of hand drawn “Ruff Guides” for the park, but they weren’t highly accessible. Due to this lack of organized information, each subsequent generation of climbers claimed FAs and gave names to lines that have likely been claimed and named multiple times before throughout the years. To add to this, the moss and lichen covers boulders that don’t see much traffic and makes it look like they’ve never been touched. The creek changes the sand bars and covers or reveals footholds and washes away evidence of being climbed. Currently, the park is more accessible and more developed for climbing than recent history. There is a trail being made by the park system going from the main Gorge Rim trail down to the creek where Pinch Arete and Keyhole are. Due to the volume of climbers that have been recreating in the park, it no longer feels sketchy to walk in with pads for a session due to power of the masses. On any pleasant day you can fully expect to see other people climbing. Work is being done to organize the lines into a definitive list with proper photos, names, locations, and grades. On the topic of conditions, many problems have had holds broken off in recent years due to being climbed when the rock is still wet. The boulders in the creek itself are much more tolerant to this due to many years of water erosion, but the rock higher up on the cliff line isn’t used to this kind of stress and breaks surprisingly easy. Surprising like, wow I’m falling but the hold is still in my hands, surprising. It usually takes a solid three days of dryness and wind to get back into shape after a good, longer in the spring and winter. The main parking area for climbing access is the Pavilion area at the East end of Chippewa Creek Drive. It isn’t the first lot by the waterfall, it is ~1000ft down the road, where there are four parking areas grouped together with a swing set and a pavilion. If you walk straight North from the swing set you'll find the chained entrance to the climbing trail with a sign that states “Stay on the designated trail.” Stay on designated trails. Check out climbchippewa.com for more assistance and this WIP map of problems/info/location ----> https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1n3KipMBR1zOSon5n8RcScCqQkjStPMV7&ll=41.31983427452158%2C-81.6170396062424&z=17

This is a small islet off the east side of Quadra Island between Open Bay and Village Bay. It marks the start of an area of short granite sea cliffs that dominate the shorelines of Quadra and the neighbouring Islands east of here. Although the rock outcrops are short (5-10m) the setting and the quality of the rock is first class.

Forbidden features a beautiful cliff and a collection of pristine granite boulders located just north of the Trans Canada highway, roughly 10KM west of Vermillion Bay. The cliff hosts the highest concentration of hard routes in the Kenora area. The cliff varies from vertical to 15 degrees overhanging. The boulders grades range from V0 to V8 along with a great mix of styles. The southeasterly direction of the cliff face creates long, hot days in the summer. There is still a great deal of potential for more climbs. The bouldering guide for the area can be purchased here: https://manitobakenorabouldering.com/

Some of Ontario's nicer limestone climbing located right on Georgian Bay. Awesome views and a range of route difficulties from 5.10 - 5.14-. Requires knowledge of natural anchor building, rappelling, and multi-pitch belay techniques. Not beginner friendly. The few sport moderates on the Latvian ledge were removed June 2020.

Some of the best bouldering in the Bay, featuring sandstone huecos and slopers. Other problems on Sendage are listed under "Castle Rock State Park" (e.g. Nature Nazi Arete)

From the Bay Area Bouldering Guide by Super Topo, 2010: From the Circle go up Marin Ave to the top and turn right onto Grizzly Peak Blvd. About two miles south of Marin just past centennial you'll see the boulders on the left (northeast) side of Grizzly Peak Blvd. There is NO PARKING on the sides of Grizzly PEak BLvd from Apr 15 to Nov 15 due to fire hazard. Parking is allowed about 1/4 mile down the road in either direction....

Some of the best climbing in the Bay, featuring sandstone huecos and slopers. Other problems on Sendage are listed under "Castle Rock" (e.g. Hueco Wall)