*** these multi-pitch climbs are Mixed climbs of Sport AND Gear*** http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_colbuttress_rrock.html Approach to base of Columbia Buttress The Last Tango, The Noose and Eternity From the intersection Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 S drive for 3.1 km along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge and past the traffic light of Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South as far as the Canada West Campground. There is a small parking area on the north side of the highway. Park your car there. From the parking area walk 50 meters towards north to a Columbia Buttress sign. There leave the road to the left (west), follow the well marked approach trail to a narrow rock gully. Now walk for the final few minutes up this rock gully to the base of the climbs. All routes start at the same base bolt. 20 minutes from highway. Approach to top of Columbia Buttress The Hanging Judge and Convicted Drive: From Revelstoke drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge to the traffic light at Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South, 900 meters from western access to Revelstoke. From the Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South traffic light turn right and follow the Westside Road for 3.8 km. There turn left and drive along the Boulder Mountain Logging Road for 10.6 km (check topo). This brings you to a road pullout and a turn-off leading to the left. Park your car there. Trail: From the road pull-out and turnoff follow the narrow turn-off road leading to the left (south) for 400 meters, to a small parking area with a great view over Revelstoke and the Columbia Valley. From there walk along a well marked trail in southerly direction, downhill to the tree line. There keep following the trail downhill for 50 meters where you will find a cedar tree with two clothing hooks. Leave your pack there, as The Hanging Judge and Convicted are topping out at this point. Now keep descending the trail to the rappel route for The Hanging Judge and Convicted. 10 minutes from the parking area.

Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff – at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long. Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) – the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the “Great Gully”). To the left of the “Great Gully” is a smaller wall called “Mid-Wall”. The “Mid Wall” is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the “North Gully”. The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well. There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950’s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook “Central BC Rock” by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere. The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand. Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 “Icy BC”. New Route Development Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval. Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays. Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger. Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.

More rock has been found south east of the main Cyberia area. You can approach these boulders most easily from Meadowbrook Rd. However due to concerns about parking scarcity and property owners it might be wise to just use the Hartland Landfill parking. The directions given assume the standard Cyberia approach.

[Area guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk) • Step 1. Getting to the Hartland landfill When leaving Victoria head toward the ferries. Before you head up the last hill out of town there is the Royal Oak exit. Take this exit and then turn left and cross the bridge over the highway. After crossing the bridge you will hit your first set of lights. Go straight through this intersection and then take a right at the next lights. The road you will be turning onto will be West Saanich road. Follow this road for quite a while until you seen Hartland road on your left. Turn onto this road and follow it until just before you head into the dump. There is a big parking lot at to the right off the road. Pull in there and park. • Step 2. Getting to the boulders Once parked, follow the mountain bike trail to the left of the road. You will follow the fence for a while and then pass the skills area. Next you will head downward and cross a creek and then climb a small hill. At the top of the hill you'll want to take a left onto one of the bike trails. Follow this trail for about 7 minutes until you hit one of the small clearings. There should be a big piece of scrap metal beside the start of the trail. Take this trail down the hill. This trail will join up with another trail. When this happens, go right. Follow this trail for about 10 minutes along the lake. After passing the lake you should start to see the start of the bouldering area off to your left. Keep heading down the trail, always keeping to the left. After crossing a couple logs the trails will take a sharp turn to the left and you should end up a the overhang wall.

Rough Coordinates: (48.525001, -123.454244) Directions: From the Killarney Lake trail continue past the left turns to Cyberia to a fork. Turn left and follow this trail watching for rock on your left immediately after a seasonal creek.

Indian Ocean Coordinates: (48.523939, -123.453956) Directions: From the main trail continue past the left turns to Cyberia to a fork. Turn left and follow this trail until you are roughly even with the coordinates. Look for a very faint trail to access the boulder.

These columnar basalt columns and crack climbs are perched above the Aberdeen Plateau (50.08.38.27N - 119.01.37.46W) about 20km south-east of Vernon, British Columbia. They face west at an elevation of 1350m. It is a short, 5 minute hike from 18km on the Aberdeen - Goat FSR to the crag. Developed columnar basalt climbing is somewhat unique in Central BC (and Canada) and provides good local training for harder crack climbing destinations. Aberdeen is ideal on hot summer mornings or spring and fall afternoons. There are now 130+ steep columnar basalt crack climbs ranging in height from 10m to 22m with grades from 5.3 to 5.11c. Most clmbs are in the 5.9 to 5.10 range. The rock is solid and provides quality cam and nut placements. There are no bolted climbs and most routes have been climbed onsite ground-up. Popular climbs are clean, less travelled routes may still have some loose rock and lichen. There are numerous bolted stations. The Aberdeen Guidebook is located under the Files section on the Aberdeen Columns group on Facebook for more information.

Vancouver Island is the 43rd largest island in the world at approximately 500km long, 150km wide with an area of 31,285 sq km. It lies off the west coast of British Columbia, Canada from where it is reached by an extensive ferry system from mainland ports. The island is shaped a bit like a squat triangle with the southern half running north to south and the northern half jutting more to the west. The majority of the towns and cities are dotted along the east side of the island at the southern half. The northern half of Vancouver Island and the mountainous interior is largely rugged wilderness crisscrossed by extensive industrial logging roads. A few paved highways cross the island to smaller west coast communities such as Port Renfrew, Tofino, Gold River and Port Alice. For the climber, Vancouver Island is a great destination. There are a number of well developed cragging and bouldering areas and vast resources of high alpine climbing. A good overview of the sport climbing areas can be found at: www.wildisle.ca/islandclimbing/vancouver-island-climbing-areas.html The rock is mostly volcanic basalt and ~75% of the climbing is on this rock type. It is generally solid with good friction but lacks good, continuous crack systems so most of the crag routes on the Island basalt are bolt protected or mixed bolt & trad. There are also areas with limestone - Horne Lake, granite - Constitution Hill, sandstone - Duncan boulders and conglomerate - Saltspring Island. Vancouver Island has exceptional alpine climbing with a very active core of local alpinists adding new routes steadily. Look for a comprehensive guidebook to the Vancouver Island mountains: Island Alpine Select from Wild Isle Publications: http://www.wildisle.ca

The spectacular Discovery Islands archipelago is located along the Inside Passage, between Campbell River, north-central Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia, on Canada's west coast. Quadra Island and Cortes Island are the best known of the Discovery Islands and home for most of the local residents. The warm, temperate climate, spectacular scenery, abundant wildlife, quiet, rural-lifestyle and endless year-round recreation opportunities all make the Discovery Islands a highly desirable place to live and visit.

British Columbia is one of the most mountainous regions of the world and has to be considered in the top 5 destinations for climbers anywhere. From classic trade routes to mind-bending new route potential the quantity of sport climbing, ice climbing and alpine climbing in BC is as vast as it is spectacular.

The largest city in Northern British Columbia. A hub for the provinces many resource sectors. Found at the confluence of the Nechako and Fraser rivers.

[Guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk/edit)

Tall face with relatively decent landing, home to the committing highball Droid V4.

From Aidan Nickel's guide: #2. The Dish is the best warmup boulder at Cyberia - just off-vertical and covered in crimps. There are many variations up this face and only a few have been included in this guide. Enjoy making up your own lines on this boulder as there are many crimps and edges all over the face, and many ways to warm up and mess around.

#3, from Aidan Nickel's guide: the Twilight boulder is steep with quite good rock offering many moderate to difficult problems

#4, From Aidan Nickel's guide; The Pythagoras boulder is the first boulder you see as you approach from the main trail offers some novice problems. There are many other easy ways to climb this boulder. It is a great warm up block similar to The Dish

#5 in Aidan Nickel's guide map - The Laboratory boulder has quality climbs on all sides Obey My Slopers V5 is an area classic.

From Aidan Nickel's guide: This short boulder has some short steep novice problems, nothing to write home about.

The Sleeper boulder has two steep V3s, Jack Be Nimble V3 should be on every novice boulderer’s ticklist. Alongside this description from Aidan Nickel's guide, there is some quality climbing, mainly easy - moderate with a few harder climbs to be found as well!

From Aidan Nickel's guide: 8. Rodeo boulder, some of the best rock in cyberia, home to Premonition V11, one of the most classic hard lines on the island, as well as the quality highballs The Oracle V6 and Memory Wars V6.

#9 in Aidan's guide. This boulder has many other lines on it but many are grown over. Around the right side of this boulder there are clearly some lines as well though they need some cleaning. Looks like a fun climb up a flake and some other vertical face climbs. I will update this section of the guide if and when I get more information about it.

In Aidan Nickel's guide - #10. Cyborg Lover: boulder that sports two quality moderates.

#11 in Aidan's guide, home to some moderates and some hard climbs, including one of the islands hardest projects

13. Huge Cave: The huge super steep cave has many problems and many possibilities though the rock is brittle there is quality climbing to be found.

Introduction: The Glen Lake crag offers relatively easy access, close proximity to Greater Victoria, and caters to beginner and intermediate climbers with routes ranging from 5.7 - 5.11- , from low-angle to slightly overhanging with at least one overhanging pump fest. The view from the top, back towards Victoria, is spectacular. The rock is good quality weathered basalt – lots of friction and many edges and flakes. It is located 5 minutes’ drive from the Westshore Town Centre in Langford, or 15-20 minute drive from downtown Victoria. Notes: • Hundreds of hours have been put in to the development of this crag. Yet, there are still plenty of undeveloped walls, ie. Black Beauty, at Glen Lake that we would love people to come out and develop. Our hope is that anyone wanting to put routes up here reaches out to us because we believe that we have a very good understanding of the area and could be of great help to you. • A helmet is suggested – the rock is great, but because the routes are new they still need some mileage. There is also a fair bit of loose rocks at the top, much like the South Cliffs of Mt. Wells. • The area is mostly East facing (slightly South-facing), and gets morning to mid-afternoon sun. • The routes with a star beside their name, are the best in my opinion. For more info and a free guidebook find us on Facebook - Glen Lake Crag. https://www.facebook.com/groups/299312767070589/ edit: The Facebook page is still active as of 2024, though the guide is out of date since 2019. The most updated guide is on the Glen Lake Crag website. https://www.glenlakecrag.ca/

For free topos, photos, and all the info you need, visit www.revelstokebouldering.ca The boulders are found West of Revelstoke on the EAGLE PASS FSR (forest service road) off of the trans-canada HWY # 1. From the main intersection accessing Revelstoke (Victoria/Laforme and HWY 1) you must head West towards Kamloops on the HWY. You will cross the mighty Columbia River and reach the intersection for HWY 23 South/Westsyde RD. (also a set of lights) - this is where you restart your odometer!! Continue past the intersection for 7 km's and until you have JUST passed the second set of passing-lanes from town. Use the shoulder of the HWY to slow down and turn RIGHT onto Eagle Pass FSR. *If the road dead-ends in 100 metres, you've turned on the wrong road and turned too early!* The Eagle Pass road will perform switch-back immediately and climb up the slopes. Once you have gone 700 metres and you have crossed a dry creek (if your lucky) you will have reached an area to park at the edge of the Cut-block on the left. Pull-over and Park. From parking you will continue up the FSR 20 metres to the P-Boulder and trail-head marked with Cairns on the right side and upwards on the mountain-slope. Note: FSR 20 has been refurbished. You can park at the apex of the first switchback and walk along the gravel road for about 500m before it turns to a faint trail that leads you to the Warmups Area. Note: Bring a large brush and bring your friends to this area, with some love it can be a great bouldering spot!

A small collection of boulders in an old clear cut. Easy approach along an old logging road. Quality problems, but not visited often. Dries quickly. Great place to climb in the spring.

Godman Creek refers to all boulder problems listed in Vancouver Rock Climbing (2015) that are WEST of the hairpin at the bottom of the Cypress Bowl Road. This zone is being commercially developed quickly and now called CYPRESS VILLAGE by the developer, British Properties. For clarity, the name of the entire area will be changed in the next guidebook to Cypress Village, with Godman Creek being a sub-sector.