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    Canada > British Columbia > Revelstoke > Cranberry Walls

    Cranberry Walls This is the most southern climbing area in Revelstoke, located a few km south of Cranberry Lake on Highway 23 South. The history of this beautiful crag started already in the mid nineties when Dean Flick has built the first route on the most southerly cliff. However, it was not until 2010 when the two Williams brothers and true Revelstoke locals Ryan and Nic have put their heart into this area. With their endless energy and enthusiasm they have built trails, scrubbed the rock and established this amazing new climbing area. How To Get There From the turnoff of the Trans Canada Highway onto Highway 23 South, west of Revelstoke, drive along Highway 23 South for 35.9 km, or 12.7 km south of the Blanket Creek Bridge. At km 35.9 you will find a large, to the left leading turn with two pull-out at the left side of the road. Park your car on the second (southerly) pull-out. Follow the well-established trail at the south-east corner of this pull-out, leading through the most beautiful forest and past a wide creek to the base of the crag, 12 minutes from the parking lot

    Canada > Alberta > Calgary Area > Split Rock

    Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

    Vancouver Island > Nanaimo Area > Linley Boulders > Covid Slab

    The great little slab got its name as it was being developed during the global Covid-19 pandemic. Almost 20 ft at its highest, faces south so it gets lots of sun. Nice flat landing, crash pads recommended due to the height.

    Canada > Ontario > Gold Mine

    Hi Everyone! wn a better description for Gold Mine, firstly I'd like to introduce myself! My name is Brendan Baars, a climber from Michigan. I was a part of the main 3 guys that found and established Gold Mine and The Nooks. The Nooks is what we call the whole area and Gold Mine is just a sub area to the region. I am writing this because Gold Mine has received so much attention from everyone in Ontario! I'm blown away with the response to the area and thank everyone that put in time and effort to maintain the trails and develop boulders for everyone. I have mainly been the leading charge for putting the information out there for everyone to enjoy and will continue to do so with everyone's help! I love to hear from people about their experience, especially if new boulders get developed! I would love for you to message me on Instagram (BrendanBaars). The guidebook for the area has been released and below you can find a link to buy it. In addition is video information on most of the climbs throughout the videos/youtube channels. INFORMATION: Guidebook https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/Guidebooks/the-nooks-bouldering/ This area located near the Eyeball multi-pitch climbing area includes very easy access with short approaches to big boulder fields. Found in 2018, the general area has the potential for thousands of problems from V0-Vpro. As of now we have established something like 170+ problems in the main area called the gold mine and is located off a paved road with a 3-minute approach. The boulders range from 10' to 30' with mostly good landings and the proximity being as good or better than LRC in Chattanooga. Virtually all the boulders are within 5 minutes of each other. It's like walking through a maze. Topo: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118166169/the-dreamersbush-nookie-boulders https://www.climbsudbury.com/gold-mine Videos The Nooks Film - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDGLjsdJ_Jw What got the hype started - https://vimeo.com/363284129 My Youtube Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKFSs9Cn007bK6LmANNHQ4Q?app=desktop Danny Plonkas Youtube Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQzvGZIfL_KyDnr1-bagLNg

    Canada > Ontario > Foodie Fruitie Boulder

    Located right outside the Foodie Fruitie store in Waterloo is a lone boulder that's barely taller than an average person. It's got a bunch of non-climbs on it. Good for goofs, and you can't beat the location, although people will think you're a crackhead.

    Vancouver Island > Greater Victoria > Hartland (Cyberia)

    [Area guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk) • Step 1. Getting to the Hartland landfill When leaving Victoria head toward the ferries. Before you head up the last hill out of town there is the Royal Oak exit. Take this exit and then turn left and cross the bridge over the highway. After crossing the bridge you will hit your first set of lights. Go straight through this intersection and then take a right at the next lights. The road you will be turning onto will be West Saanich road. Follow this road for quite a while until you seen Hartland road on your left. Turn onto this road and follow it until just before you head into the dump. There is a big parking lot at to the right off the road. Pull in there and park. • Step 2. Getting to the boulders Once parked, follow the mountain bike trail to the left of the road. You will follow the fence for a while and then pass the skills area. Next you will head downward and cross a creek and then climb a small hill. At the top of the hill you'll want to take a left onto one of the bike trails. Follow this trail for about 7 minutes until you hit one of the small clearings. There should be a big piece of scrap metal beside the start of the trail. Take this trail down the hill. This trail will join up with another trail. When this happens, go right. Follow this trail for about 10 minutes along the lake. After passing the lake you should start to see the start of the bouldering area off to your left. Keep heading down the trail, always keeping to the left. After crossing a couple logs the trails will take a sharp turn to the left and you should end up a the overhang wall.

    Canada > British Columbia > Revelstoke > Eagle Pass Boulders

    For free topos, photos, and all the info you need, visit www.revelstokebouldering.ca The boulders are found West of Revelstoke on the EAGLE PASS FSR (forest service road) off of the trans-canada HWY # 1. From the main intersection accessing Revelstoke (Victoria/Laforme and HWY 1) you must head West towards Kamloops on the HWY. You will cross the mighty Columbia River and reach the intersection for HWY 23 South/Westsyde RD. (also a set of lights) - this is where you restart your odometer!! Continue past the intersection for 7 km's and until you have JUST passed the second set of passing-lanes from town. Use the shoulder of the HWY to slow down and turn RIGHT onto Eagle Pass FSR. *If the road dead-ends in 100 metres, you've turned on the wrong road and turned too early!* The Eagle Pass road will perform switch-back immediately and climb up the slopes. Once you have gone 700 metres and you have crossed a dry creek (if your lucky) you will have reached an area to park at the edge of the Cut-block on the left. Pull-over and Park. From parking you will continue up the FSR 20 metres to the P-Boulder and trail-head marked with Cairns on the right side and upwards on the mountain-slope. Note: FSR 20 has been refurbished. You can park at the apex of the first switchback and walk along the gravel road for about 500m before it turns to a faint trail that leads you to the Warmups Area. Note: Bring a large brush and bring your friends to this area, with some love it can be a great bouldering spot!

    Canada > British Columbia > Revelstoke > Columbia Buttress

    *** these multi-pitch climbs are Mixed climbs of Sport AND Gear*** http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_colbuttress_rrock.html Approach to base of Columbia Buttress The Last Tango, The Noose and Eternity From the intersection Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 S drive for 3.1 km along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge and past the traffic light of Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South as far as the Canada West Campground. There is a small parking area on the north side of the highway. Park your car there. From the parking area walk 50 meters towards north to a Columbia Buttress sign. There leave the road to the left (west), follow the well marked approach trail to a narrow rock gully. Now walk for the final few minutes up this rock gully to the base of the climbs. All routes start at the same base bolt. 20 minutes from highway. Approach to top of Columbia Buttress The Hanging Judge and Convicted Drive: From Revelstoke drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge to the traffic light at Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South, 900 meters from western access to Revelstoke. From the Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South traffic light turn right and follow the Westside Road for 3.8 km. There turn left and drive along the Boulder Mountain Logging Road for 10.6 km (check topo). This brings you to a road pullout and a turn-off leading to the left. Park your car there. Trail: From the road pull-out and turnoff follow the narrow turn-off road leading to the left (south) for 400 meters, to a small parking area with a great view over Revelstoke and the Columbia Valley. From there walk along a well marked trail in southerly direction, downhill to the tree line. There keep following the trail downhill for 50 meters where you will find a cedar tree with two clothing hooks. Leave your pack there, as The Hanging Judge and Convicted are topping out at this point. Now keep descending the trail to the rappel route for The Hanging Judge and Convicted. 10 minutes from the parking area.

    Squamish > Brohm Lake > The After-Party

    Unfortunately, there is no bottom wire to walk across anymore so you have to pull yourself across on one of the wires while dangling below. We used a steel mailion, but a pulley would be the best! The bottom wire must have been ripped off in a winter storm, so there are only the top two wires left now. Edit: Bottom wires has been reinstalled

    Squamish > Brohm Lake > After Work

    Crag right of the After-Party. Unfortunately, there is no bottom wire to walk across anymore so you have to pull yourself across on one of the wires while dangling below. We used a steel mailion, but a pulley would be the best! The bottom wire must have been ripped off in a winter storm, so there are only the top two wires left now.

    Canada > British Columbia > Crazy Creek > Jungle Juice

    “Shark tooth” starts with Left-hand three finger side pull and Right hand sloper. And go straight up using left hand on aret and top out at the tooth.

    Canada > British Columbia > Revelstoke > Victor Lake Boulders

    Head to www.revelstokebouldering.ca for free downloadable topos. This is a small area, but what is lacking in quantity is more than made up for by the classic problems on bullet proof rock. The majority of the problems are harder and fall between V5 and V8, however the Boxcar Boulder hosts a number of excellent moderates and is within spitting distance of the parking lot. If you can pull down on double digit problems, this is the place for first ascents! There are many amazing looking lines that are clean and waiting for a send

    Canada > British Columbia > Cougar Canyon > Conspiracy Wall

    Formerly known as Sofa Kingdom, this is the premier crag at Cougar Canyon for anyone looking to pull down hard. This cliff is characterized by a slightly overhung lower half covered in pockets, followed by a terrifically steep upper half on bulletproof rock. Much of the best climbing at conspiracy wall is in the 5.11+ to 5.12+ range making this cliff a good choice for climbers looking for more challenging lines. Not that a 60m rope will allow you to lower back to the belay ledges, but use a 70m if lowering all the way to the ground.

    nemesis

    Climbed totally eclipse 4 years ago and fell while clipping (slipped off the slab) near the top. lots of excuses... need new shoes. got new shoes and since wore them out. still making excuses not to go back. I gotta get this one off my back. Climbed staples and almost got pulled off the wall when I couldn't pull up rope to clip. Was blaming belayer, but the bolts are strangely close together half way up and not in line creating tremendous rope drag. Longer sling might help next time.

    Bishop Projects - All in good time

    A fairly hefty set of projects that will take me a while to go through. Got to have a plan though!

    The Red - Round 2

    What I've got my sights set on for my upcoming trip in the fall.

    2012 Goals

    Goals for the year. 7/22 - got psyched on summer bouldering at Master Bedroom... added a few lines I'm close on ( in the heat.) Nuclear war is a pipedream, but good training for Roses! 10/19 - seems like I'm going to fall way short of my goals. 5 Weeks on the couch with a swollen finger from the end of August till the second week of October is a good reason, I guess.

    The Attack List

    If I'm ever going to up my climbing game, I need to redpoint these routes. I have either obsessed over these route without trying them, tried them once and never went back, or projected them and never got the send. It's time to put these behind me.

    Leavenworth

    List of stuff that I got close on and have yet to finish.

    Joes Valley 2014

    Finally made it to joes and got in eight days of climbing. Can't wait to go back! Here's what I did.

    Unfinished Routes

    Climbs that I've tried but haven't got the redpoint on.

    Projects

    Routes that I almost got last time

    Joe's Valley Birthday Challenge 2015

    I got 23 problems but a bitch ain't one.

    Climbs to come back for..

    Climbs that I tried a few times and got really psyched on, but then had to move on before being able to redpoint

    Climbs to come back for

    Climbs I tried and got psyched on, but didn't have time to send

    Kootenay Must-Do's

    All the stuff that got away, or looks too good to ignore!

    Squamish's Nightmare Quad

    The Nightmare Trilogy just got better with the addition of everyone's favorite style - offwidth!

    2023 Oregon

    The quicker the better! Hopefully by the spring/early summer but fall would be alright too. Lets see what I can do! Edit: Lost most of 2023 to injury, only got like 6 done. Lets hope 2024 goes better!

    Dream Boulder Problems

    I've got my work cut out for me!

    Urban Climber's US Top 100

    Urban Climber Mag compiled a list of the US's top 100 boulder problems. This is a direct pull from the source, without personal opinion.