Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

Made up of three boulders. The main 'Hideaway' boulder is in the center. It has decent landings and the majority of the problems, but the top out is quite dirty and crumbly. The other two boulders flank it, one to each side, named appropriately the 'Left Arete' and 'Right Arete' boulders.

There are two boulders at the bottom of the stairs at Halfway Hot Springs: An overhanging face/arete towards the stairs, and an opposing and imposing choss-ier looking overgrown and overhanging face/arete facing the river over a swampy pool and poison ivy patch.

Incline ceiling and arete boulder just under mystery machine

Little beach town, not a lot going on, but amazing climbing. Be sure to get gas and money in Sparti along the way.

aka Trump Wall. About 100 meters West (upstream) from the main Sunny Side wall, at river level, under the natural gas pipeline crossing.

A couple km's east of chase is a small pullout just after the gas station in the west bound lane. From the cross the road and head uphill towards the power lines. There's a few boulders below the scree field in the forest. The best boulder 'widow maker' is located near a small pocket of birch trees beneath the scree field.

Some of the best bouldering in the Bay, featuring sandstone huecos and slopers. Other problems on Sendage are listed under "Castle Rock State Park" (e.g. Nature Nazi Arete)

This is the small outcrop to the left of the base of the gully that links Upper Sickle to Keystone Crag. It has a distinctive hanging arete at the base with a cave underneath.

South Willow Canyon is found in the Stansbury Range, which forms the western boundary of Tooele valley. It is nearest the city of Grantsville, and is about an hours drive west of Salt Lake City.There are numerous limestone outcroppings along the forest service road along the canyon bottom. These are home to some quality bolted sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14a (The Big Smile). There are routes to be found in and around the lower narrows, but the majority of the routes are found in the upper Narrows These areas are shady in the summer, and though the upper narrows can be crowded at times on the weekends, a mid-week excursion can offer up a quiet and cooler alternative to the more popular canyons to the east. For trad guys, there is at least one naturally protected route (5.9ish) that climbs a crack system on a sharp and solitary outcrop (The Suicide Arete), which can be found on the south side of the road near the Boy Scout Campground. P.S. A stick clip may be handy for clipping the first bolts on some of the south side routes that climb the walls above the creek.

Boulder stands alone with a perfectly cut steep face. Sloping arete on the left, flakes in the middle, and a jutting horn on the right. By far the highest quality boulder developed on Quadra in this author's estimation.

The arête's right-hand side, right next to Bernoulli's principle

Ce secteur sous-développé se trouve en haut à gauche du secteur Lune de Jour. Passez dans les éboulis derrière la pancarte « cédez le passage » et vous verrez rapidement l’arête arrondie d’Un Monde Parfait à gauche et le dièdre de Batterie Rechargeable à droite, les deux formes marquantes de ce secteur.

The boulders in this area are located in and around a small clearing that marks the furthest extent of the boulders (and public land!). The landmark of the area is the tall, unclimbed arete with the unique inset ‘eye’ feature.

A vertical wall with a rail going across it at mid-height. A notable arête on the right side.

Just 2 Climbs in here, both starting from inside the cave, and working out and up in different directions. The V6 is juggy to start, difficult to exit the cave, then slabby to the top. The V10 is powerful big moves to the lip, then slanted jugs up an arete. Both are 20+ moves.

"Hidden in the forest above Woodstock is this pleasant, south-facing crag. It features a variety of low-angle face and crack-lines along with steep arete and excellent finger crack. As the loop passes Woodstock, watch for a trail on the right that leads steeply uphill." Squamish Select 4th edition

Newly developed crag as of March 2021. Solid sandstone with some conglomerate bands, with a wide variety of climbing styles - crack, arete, slab, overhang, chimney.

The Pictograph area, named for the Pictograph boulder that features an ochre drawing of a triangle-headed man/spirit, has the greatest concentration of quality problems in the area. A bit further along the utility access road is the impressive Pictograph Boulder. It’s overhanging downhill face features a pictograph of a triangle-headed man or spirit. The classic Inner Vision (V5) climbs the arete to the left of the pictograph. Brad’s Project Boulder is an obvious boulder jutting out of the talus immediately uphill of Scot’s Cave. The next four problems are scattered between the main areas. The unique problem Aqua (V4) ascends a water- sculpted rail on a small but prominent boulder located immediately above the utility access road, just east of the Pictograph area. Atlantis (V0+) traverses the water- worn lip of a small boulder just past (west of) the Pictograph Boulder, while problems 33 and 34 are on small boulders in the forest immediately uphill of Atlantis.

One of Skaha's largest and most impressive walls has a relatively small number of routes and, sadly, few of them are actually worth doing. This is partially due to the quality of the rock, which is scaly and loose on the west face, but that crag's slightly out-of-the-way location doesn't help either. Most climbers come to adventure up the two-pitch gear route 'Slow Pitch' (5.10c), but 'Disparu' (5.11d) is an excellent two-pitch adventure sport climb up the south face. Hopefully, an ambitious local will adopt this cliff in the near future and help realize it's true potential. Conditions: The large, imposing Prow has two distinct aspects. The south face, home to 'Slow Pitch' and 'Disparu,' gets sun from mid-morning until evening. The west face, left of the arete, gets shade until early afternoon and then bakes until sunset. A few large trees shade the base of the south face.

One of Skaha's largest and most impressive walls has a relatively small number of routes and, sadly, few of them are actually worth doing. This is partially due to the quality of the rock, which is scaly and loose on the west face, but that crag's slightly out-of-the-way location doesn't help either. Most climbers come to adventure up the two-pitch gear route 'Slow Pitch' (5.10c), but 'Disparu' (5.11d) is an excellent two-pitch adventure sport climb up the south face. Hopefully, an ambitious local will adopt this cliff in the near future and help realize it's true potential. Conditions: The large, imposing Prow has two distinct aspects. The south face, home to 'Slow Pitch' and 'Disparu,' gets sun from mid-morning until evening. The west face, left of the arete, gets shade until early afternoon and then bakes until sunset. A few large trees shade the base of the south face.

A largish boulder just before the sport climbs. Some overhung moderate lowballs on the south face and a couple of lines on the east face/arete.

Directly around the the right arete from the Command Central wall. Featuring the best 5.10 at Lakit with Kamikaze and up to 5.12c in grades.

Continuing on the trail around the right side of the Command Central wall and past the Bunker, the first line of 5 bolts you'll see is the start of the Post Office with The Pony Express. Featuring grades from 5.9 to 5.12b/c. This area has the 5 star Bubble Wrap! The Post Office area ends with the 8 bolt Postage required, up the angled ledge and around a bulging arete that has a safety handle. Looking at the overhanging face to the right with permadraws is Redneck Rampage 5.13c in the Hillbilly Haven area.

The 'Eavy Metal boulders can be found at the most eastern end of Gold Mine West. The comprise them selves of some tall arets and overhangs. The rock quality is good though behind the boulder which features Azrael, Hellfire and Helvete there is a impressive overhung arete/ fin which is waiting for a climber to clean and send.

Flinders cave is a modern discovery indeed. The cave hosts a great deal of obscenely steep, hard routes. Nicknamed “27 Heaven”- the climbing is upside down ceiling thuggery- which translates to be very physical and relentless. 'The Secret Cave' or ‘Flinders Cave’ is sixty metres high, but from twenty to fifty metres overhanging with the main wall being about twenty metres height at 60°- 80°. As Cameron Fairburn writes- “We had found the steepest terrain in QLD, or I should say rediscovered. We found a line of old 8mm hardware down the right wall of the cave that belonged to Frey Yule. We think he checked out the cave about five years previously but then moved interstate. The cave is SSW facing, so no sun all year round and only a 40min drive from 'Brisbane'. Unfortunately, there is also the 2.5km, 40min uphill walk in as well. The rock is solid volcanic trachyte with formations uncommon in Queensland; it's a mixture of fused blocks, huecos, crystallised slopers and hard crimps - the holds can be quite sharp. Some of the easier routes like 'The Nightmare of Milky Joe' (23) and 'Never Ask the Moon' (22) are super-fun cut-loose jug fests. Early in the piece, Glen established 'Wet Jigsaw Puzzle' (25) a short pump fest that climbs out of the steepest part of the wall. To add to this he climbed 'King of the Mods' (27), adding to a huge range of 27’s to come. Then the numbers rolled, I freed my project after my food was spiked 'Like a Man on Pepperoni' (27), possibly the steepest climb in 'Queensland'. That was until Glen equipped his, an 80° blank arête project, 'A Space Odyssey' 25m 30 or 5.13c”. 'The Secret Cave' consists of two developed areas: the steep main wall and a right hand wall which, although not as steep as the main wall, offers some challenging climbing. 'Terminus of Desire' (25) climbs from under the large overhang. This route will be used to access the steeper upper wall which has the potential for a couple of super hard routes. With all this new development Ross returned to develop what he hoped would be a nice easy sub-20 warm up. He ended up establishing 'Finger Tips and Mountain Tops' (23), an intricate crimp-fest climbing above the lip of this right-hand buttress. Ross then established 'Song and Dance Man' (27) a steep juggy start into a hard crimper sequence. Glen the power monkey campused his way to glory on Backstroke of the West (27) while another buddy of ours Antoine Moussette battled scorpion-eating spiders on one of the best 5.12c’s or 26’s in Qld “The French Connection' . There is still so much more to do. Hard unclimbed projects, the undeveloped upper wall and the central cave section as well as some creative batman starts. 'The Secret Cave' has proved to be a valuable asset to 'Queensland' climbing, not only in the unique steep terrain, but also in the addition of ever increasing harder sport climbs in 'Queensland'. When to go: All day, any day. Providing you can handle the heat on the walk-in.

At the top of the Mount Doom feature on its east edge are a couple of inside corners and an arête.

Approach: If facing the Sabotage Boulder, the Hypergiant Boulder is situated in the same band of rock roughly 40 m to the right. You can approach these boulders from above or below off the main trail. The prominent knife edge arete should be visible from the trail. This is Hypergiant V5~

Was once a quite and secluded area from the main populace where you could find quiet and not many climbers ... ... Chippewa Creek Gorge was formed by glacier movements thousands of years ago. These glaciers exposed outcrops of Shale, Berea Sandstone, and Euclid Bluestone. In the late 1800s the Berea Sandstone and the Euclid Bluestone were quarried for use as building materials. This ended in the early 20th century due to a decreased demand for natural stone for construction. Brecksville Reservation was declared a public park soon after. In the late 1990s the first information about climbing in the park was posted to another rock climbing website. Problems were put up and documented by that generation of climbers, but not everything was posted back then, and the website ended up becoming defunct. Legal access to the park for climbing was problematic. There was a high risk of getting your gear confiscated by park rangers. Around this time, Jeffery Bonatti created a series of hand drawn “Ruff Guides” for the park, but they weren’t highly accessible. Due to this lack of organized information, each subsequent generation of climbers claimed FAs and gave names to lines that have likely been claimed and named multiple times before throughout the years. To add to this, the moss and lichen covers boulders that don’t see much traffic and makes it look like they’ve never been touched. The creek changes the sand bars and covers or reveals footholds and washes away evidence of being climbed. Currently, the park is more accessible and more developed for climbing than recent history. There is a trail being made by the park system going from the main Gorge Rim trail down to the creek where Pinch Arete and Keyhole are. Due to the volume of climbers that have been recreating in the park, it no longer feels sketchy to walk in with pads for a session due to power of the masses. On any pleasant day you can fully expect to see other people climbing. Work is being done to organize the lines into a definitive list with proper photos, names, locations, and grades. On the topic of conditions, many problems have had holds broken off in recent years due to being climbed when the rock is still wet. The boulders in the creek itself are much more tolerant to this due to many years of water erosion, but the rock higher up on the cliff line isn’t used to this kind of stress and breaks surprisingly easy. Surprising like, wow I’m falling but the hold is still in my hands, surprising. It usually takes a solid three days of dryness and wind to get back into shape after a good, longer in the spring and winter. The main parking area for climbing access is the Pavilion area at the East end of Chippewa Creek Drive. It isn’t the first lot by the waterfall, it is ~1000ft down the road, where there are four parking areas grouped together with a swing set and a pavilion. If you walk straight North from the swing set you'll find the chained entrance to the climbing trail with a sign that states “Stay on the designated trail.” Stay on designated trails. Check out climbchippewa.com for more assistance and this WIP map of problems/info/location ----> https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1n3KipMBR1zOSon5n8RcScCqQkjStPMV7&ll=41.31983427452158%2C-81.6170396062424&z=17