Located across the Cheakamus Canyon from Squamish and clearly viewed from the highway to Whistler, the Tantalus range may be the most easily accessed “remote” alpine climbing area in BC. A day hike or a short helicopter flight can land you at one of the two alpine huts, from which over a dozen day trip objectives can be reached. It is also possible to hit some of these as a long day trip from Squamish.

The Turtle is unique because while the base is on private property, the landowner is supportive of climbing at the crag. The cliff tends to stay in the shade for most of the day and is a good option during warmer weather. To prevent erosion, please avoid this area during wet conditions (spring thaw) or after a day of rain. The crag has routes ranging from steep powerful pulling to more conventional technical pocket and small-edge climbing. THIS CRAG NOW REQUIRES RESERVATIONS. DO NOT CLIMB HERE WITHOUT RESERVING. Reserve your spot here: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/turtle-code/ Gus' and Justin Dwyer's Guide for Turtle: https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/assets/the-turtle-guidebook/The-Turtle-2018.pdf

Overall this cliff is a newer moderate warm-up venue for climbers going to the Moose Mountain Crags. The Beach Front Buttress was fully developed in the spring of 2019. Until recently it was the first climbable cliff encountered on the way into the area. There are thirteen routes on this sunny south facing aspect. The crag is tucked in behind a treed shoulder with generally good sun exposure and it’s out of the wind for the most part. Overall it hosts moderate climbing (ten routes are in the 5.10 range or less) making for an ideal stop to warm up on before heading up valley to try some of the harder fare on offer. This small crag provides a pleasant venue to spend the day doing low intensity moderate cragging. The only drawback to these fun routes is the overall height of the cliff at around 20m or less, it simply leaves climbers wanting more. In spring/late winter this small buttress catches the sun roughly an hour before the Moose Patch sector located another 5 minutes up the road. Stopping off here allows climbers to start their day bit sooner. This crag is usually out of the wind and a sun trap making it ideal for late winter and early spring rock climbing and fighting with marginal temperatures. Named after the unusual sand beach found below the cliff on the northern flank of Canyon Creek. The venue makes for a very fun hang. The creekbed was dry during the three weeks of development in March and early April of 2019. However, later in the year be aware that water levels can change rapidly and crag access may require proceeding upstream crossing over the bridge and then working back along the north bank of Canyon Creek during spring runoff or following heavy rains from intense summer thunder storms. All climbs on this crag are well protected, most require six or seven draws plus clips for the anchor. All top anchors are from two staggered ring-bolts. Note: There are some very low first bolts on some routes along with a couple, two-bolt base anchors detailed on the photo-topo. These low height bolts are intended for base anchors to back up tied off trees to allow lead rope soloing on these climbs. Please do not remove these lower hangers. Feel free to clip these bolts while leading or ignore them. Please don’t remove or vandalize this low hanging hardware.

Flinders cave is a modern discovery indeed. The cave hosts a great deal of obscenely steep, hard routes. Nicknamed “27 Heaven”- the climbing is upside down ceiling thuggery- which translates to be very physical and relentless. 'The Secret Cave' or ‘Flinders Cave’ is sixty metres high, but from twenty to fifty metres overhanging with the main wall being about twenty metres height at 60°- 80°. As Cameron Fairburn writes- “We had found the steepest terrain in QLD, or I should say rediscovered. We found a line of old 8mm hardware down the right wall of the cave that belonged to Frey Yule. We think he checked out the cave about five years previously but then moved interstate. The cave is SSW facing, so no sun all year round and only a 40min drive from 'Brisbane'. Unfortunately, there is also the 2.5km, 40min uphill walk in as well. The rock is solid volcanic trachyte with formations uncommon in Queensland; it's a mixture of fused blocks, huecos, crystallised slopers and hard crimps - the holds can be quite sharp. Some of the easier routes like 'The Nightmare of Milky Joe' (23) and 'Never Ask the Moon' (22) are super-fun cut-loose jug fests. Early in the piece, Glen established 'Wet Jigsaw Puzzle' (25) a short pump fest that climbs out of the steepest part of the wall. To add to this he climbed 'King of the Mods' (27), adding to a huge range of 27’s to come. Then the numbers rolled, I freed my project after my food was spiked 'Like a Man on Pepperoni' (27), possibly the steepest climb in 'Queensland'. That was until Glen equipped his, an 80° blank arête project, 'A Space Odyssey' 25m 30 or 5.13c”. 'The Secret Cave' consists of two developed areas: the steep main wall and a right hand wall which, although not as steep as the main wall, offers some challenging climbing. 'Terminus of Desire' (25) climbs from under the large overhang. This route will be used to access the steeper upper wall which has the potential for a couple of super hard routes. With all this new development Ross returned to develop what he hoped would be a nice easy sub-20 warm up. He ended up establishing 'Finger Tips and Mountain Tops' (23), an intricate crimp-fest climbing above the lip of this right-hand buttress. Ross then established 'Song and Dance Man' (27) a steep juggy start into a hard crimper sequence. Glen the power monkey campused his way to glory on Backstroke of the West (27) while another buddy of ours Antoine Moussette battled scorpion-eating spiders on one of the best 5.12c’s or 26’s in Qld “The French Connection' . There is still so much more to do. Hard unclimbed projects, the undeveloped upper wall and the central cave section as well as some creative batman starts. 'The Secret Cave' has proved to be a valuable asset to 'Queensland' climbing, not only in the unique steep terrain, but also in the addition of ever increasing harder sport climbs in 'Queensland'. When to go: All day, any day. Providing you can handle the heat on the walk-in.

As derived from The Fraser Valley Climbing Guide by John Valecko & Jasper Fast: 'This wall faces south, but is in the trees all day making it a great crag to visit on a warm day. The crag dries very quickly, and there are 2 routes which stay dry in the rain. The rock type is granite with diorite inclusions, creating veins in the rock. There are a few trad routes, and a few sport routes. A single rack .3-3, 12 draws, and a 60m rope works great for all of the routes.' 9 routes total: - 3 trad - 6 sport - Nice hike (10min) - Fast drying - Shaded

A sunny crag, best suited for the colder months. The crag is popular, and for a reason, and its crowdy on weekends. In contrast, you could enjoy the whole crag by yourself on weekdays! The grades ranges from 3+ to 8c, with majority of the good routes in the 5-6 and 7 grades, which makes it perfect for a day out with friends on different levels.

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

In Cedar City. The Dark Tower Area is the sub-crag located on the NW end of The Running Scared Wall. It has the second largest cluster of routes as well as the largest range of grades. The quality of rock here varies, and with that being said, its the best at wall. This area faces west and is in the sun for a marjority of the day. Shade can be found in the morning and can also be chased by climbing routes around and behind The Dark Tower. Getting There The Dark Tower is near the furthest north-end of the buttress, if following the main trail, continue along past the School Room for an estimated 500 feet until a steep, wavy tower appears.

Snow Canyon State Park is in the area of the city of Saint George, perhaps an hour from the heart of Zion National Park. This large state park boasts a little of everything, from short sport clip-ups to mixed multi-pitch routes or even long, infrequently traveled adventure climbs. I have only sampled the area, but am writing it up here to get the ball rolling. The crags are sandstone, some reminiscent of the good stuff at Red Rock, NV, some resembling the softer formations of Zion National Park, and some fit for climbing by only the truest of desert rats. No matter if you are chasing sun or shade, or wanting crimpers, slopers, pockets, or an occasional crack there are climbs of various flavors facing in any given direction at any given time of day, depending on which crag you are at. The Island In The Sky area sports the Aftershock Wall, Circus Wall, The Doghouse, and other walls with good sport and mixed climbs. The West Canyon area has adventure routes and much adventure potential for those looking for touble and in possession of an emergency bolt kit. The nearby town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park ($14 in addition to $5 daily entry fee) or free camping just outside town on BLM land. The following guidebooks contain more details on the area and the park: Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition; Rock Climbing Utah; and an article in Climbing magazine #225 (article by Tim Kemple).

The wave is some of Skaha's steepest climbing. It is a popular crag due to its proximity to the parking lot and because of its orientation to the sun. On a winter or cold day it is a lovely place to warm yourself and get pumped. Harder climbs are represented in this short and steep band of rock. Even though the wall is far from aesthetic, it features fantastic movement.

Cougar Canyon Bouldering: The main concentration of the bouldering here is in the Moss Hollow/Down Under area which is located hidden amongst the trees in the middle of the canyon. The Alice Boulder is another recent discovery that is a few minute’s walk from the main area that hosts many other great problems. Since last fall lots of new problems and development has been going on, it seems like the potential is endless for those with a keen eye. There are a few problems scattered about the area that are not covered in this guide solely because they are spread way out and the information is limited . The rock here is Monashee Gneiss, so it tends to be really featured and grippy, every once and a while you will encounter some loose stuff (especially if on the bigger rope routes) but most of the boulder problems in this guide are on the good solid stuff. Bouldering is a great social way of climbing, and can be great training for big routes. Get out and give it a shot, the landing are mainly good here, and the atmosphere can be very refreshing on a hot summer day!! Be safe, use good spotting techniques and pads, and try to leave a lasting impression.

Tucked into the mossy forest at the base of the Chief, the Grand Wall Boulders form the heart of Squamish bouldering. A short stroll from the main parking lot brings you into a maze of granite blocks scattered beneath towering walls. The setting is shaded, cool, and alive with the sound of ravens and rushing water—perfect conditions for long summer sessions. If you only have one day to boulder in Squamish, this is where you should start. With hundreds of problems in every style and grade, the Grand Wall Boulders deliver a complete taste of Squamish granite in a single compact playground.

You could wait in line to climb at the Motherlode or get on equally good 5.12s and 5.13s at the adjacent Bear's Den. The Bear's Den is broken into sectors with the Gold Wall and Steep Wall on the left side getting sun for most of the day and the Twelve Wall, Cut Tree Wall, and Project Wall on the right side in the shade.

Great climbing above Surge channel. Bomber rock and a great place to spend a sunny day watching the whales go by.

A single cliff that faces SW. It is in the open and gets all day sun. Offers great climbing for beginner and intermediate climbers.

Skid row is a masterpiece and a masterclass in crag development. As much care and thought has gone into the trail making as the route bolting. There is a wide staging area complete with stone benches, under one of which lives a little mouse! Great moderate routes abound and most are very clean as of July 2017. A great first intro to the magical feeling that pervades the Crest Creek Crags and nice, shady spot on a hot summer day.

This cliff is just across the creek from Cat's Eye Wall. It has good stone and good routes, but some of the climbs are inaccessible during high water. Good on a hot day because it doesn't get a lot of sun.

First climbed on June 1st 2014. High value body tension climbing on sandstone slopers. Usually dries quickly, as the rock is exposed and gets sun for most of the day. The landing is dry up to a 4.5m high tide. Check the tide table just in case: https://www.tides.gc.ca/eng/station?sid=7917 [NANAIMO BOULDERING GUIDE](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PYZZcl4dBR3U6ha-VNCc-cEcWD6dJLwp/view?usp=sharing) ^CLICK HERE^

The Black Corridor has about 30 routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a. The routes are slabby to slightly overhanging. The left side of the corridor gets morning sun and the right side mid day sun. Fun area for beginners or those looking to warm-up for some harder sends.

Topos here: http://justanotheroutdoorpage.blogspot.ca/2013/05/gotham-city-nelson-bc-rock-climbing.html Hidden down amongst the trees right off the highway in a quiet spot, Gotham City hosts 13 great little sport routes on very well featured rock. The highest being about 15 meters, all the climbs pack a lot of fun in a very short time. There is something for everyone here from 5.9 to 5.11a with a bunch of great steep, sustained climbs around the 10a-10d range. The rock varies from granite, to basalt and even a little limestone-ish stuff near the bottom of the Bat Wall. All the climbs are bolted well and have great stations accessible from a trail that leads to the top that makes for some very easy top roping. Keep in mind this is a new area and of a fractured nature. Expect loose rock and some little blocks coming off time to time. Again a wonderful area that faces south and makes for a great day 20 minutes from Nelson. Thanks to Shaun King from Mountain Sense for the development of the area! (All of the FA's are credited to S.King as well 2011)

From Canmore, take the Three Sisters Parkway up past the Nordic Centre to Whitemans Pond. Continue along the gravel road (Smith Dorrien Trail) to the beginning of the Spray Lakes Reservoir. Turn right following signs to West Spray Lakes Campground, continuing to follow the road as it bends left farther into the campground. After 1.5km there will be a large grassy pullout on your right with a sign “Trailhead Parking”, park here. There are two spots to begin hiking. The first can be accessed through the “Trailhead” parking lot by taking the obvious trail leading from it. The second is accessed by walking farther down the gravel road until you see a “no parking” sign on a gate. Follow the trail behind the gate. This is the faster route and will skip a steep hill. The trail winds through the forest following a creek for most of the hike. After approximately 2.5km you enter a rocky clearing with a waterfall on your right and the boulders easily visible to the left. Take the last small section of trail through the band of trees to access the boulders. A trail continues up and right of the boulder field; it leads up to the old goat glacier. Hikers frequent the area to view Old Goat Glacier up in the higher valley.ogistics The total hike time is around 30min. With 200m elevation gain over the 2.5km it makes for an easy hike. Three good sized pads and a decent spotter will let you climb almost all of the problems. More pads will be a necessity on some problems, while very few require less than three. Almost all of the boulders face north, and hardly ever come into sun. Most of the slab climbs get morning sun, and the entire valley becomes shaded around 4-6 PM. Once past the upper Grassi Lakes parking lot, cell reception is lost. So keep this in mind when planning your day. **Please note the campground is closed from mid-September to mid-May** **The hike will be 1.5km or about 20min longer during these times.**

It is in the noon-day sun so it can get real hot, but a nice place to boulder close to town. Originally thought to be chossy, but I disagree. Not as popular as Lone Boulder or Head Cut Off Cliff, but you should check it out for yourself!

Predominately vertical walls with varied routes ranging from 5 to 43 meters and 5.7 to 5.11. You can find sun / shade on either side of the canyon depending on the time of day

Located in the Calico Basin area, this popular and easily accessible crag has a good range of sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12. With climbing on all four sides, shade can be found at almost any time of day.

Foreplay is one of the most distant crags from Skaha's southern parking lots, but if approached from the north it's a relatively quick hit. Before 2014 it saw very little interest, but a blitz of recent activity has resulted in a large collection of excellent routes. Foreplay's main wall is slightly overhanging and, at 20 metres tall, brings on a good pump. The routes become less steep near the south end and the slabby Terry's Face and Reilly Rock both have a good collection of technical moderates. If you visit, don't miss 'Back Hand of God,' one of Skaha's best 5.12a's. Condition: Foreplay and Reilly Rock both face due west, providing cool, shady conditions on warm mornings. Terry's Face tilts to the south and gets plenty of sun throughout the day. There are no trees to speak of in this zone, so don't expect any shaded areas for belaying or lounging.

The cliff is located on the east shore of Lac Blanc and faces south west. As such it receives early morning shade and then all day sun. The positioning above the lac allows for a slight breeze which can help cut the heat during the warm summer temperatures. Supposedly this is a good crag to avoid crowds. Dires quickly after rain

This area is on private property. Please work with the local climbing community to discuss access and avoid publishing directions to this area online. The cliffs are shaded almost all the time regardless of season or time of day - great in the summer but chilly in the winter. The rock is fairly solid sandstone with mostly vertical routes as well as a few slabs. Moss can be an issue due to the continuous shade, do your part and scrub a section! The primordial feeling amphitheater you enter upon dropping down into the gorge is known as "The Boom Boom Room". Surprisingly, parts of this area remain dry even in rain due to the slight overhang on the main wall and tree cover. Top access on the main wall is good, but the anchors for some of the routes on the detached pillar in the Boom Boom Room are difficult to access.

Mount Pope is a popular day-use park among hikers and climbers. There is a 6.5 km hiking trail that leads to the peak and a stunning vista of Stuart Lake. The climbing areas themselves comprise of limestone. The quality of the rock ranges from bullet-hard and featureless-to-blocky-whydidyouboltthis- choss. The climbing usually falls somewhere in the middle. There are some route topos available online, but most of the area requires assistance from a local who knows his or her way around.

Here are twenty sport and two trad climbing routes. South East. All day sun. Windy. Dog friendly. Walk in time: 5-10 min. Walk in angle: Steep hike.