[Area guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk) • Step 1. Getting to the Hartland landfill When leaving Victoria head toward the ferries. Before you head up the last hill out of town there is the Royal Oak exit. Take this exit and then turn left and cross the bridge over the highway. After crossing the bridge you will hit your first set of lights. Go straight through this intersection and then take a right at the next lights. The road you will be turning onto will be West Saanich road. Follow this road for quite a while until you seen Hartland road on your left. Turn onto this road and follow it until just before you head into the dump. There is a big parking lot at to the right off the road. Pull in there and park. • Step 2. Getting to the boulders Once parked, follow the mountain bike trail to the left of the road. You will follow the fence for a while and then pass the skills area. Next you will head downward and cross a creek and then climb a small hill. At the top of the hill you'll want to take a left onto one of the bike trails. Follow this trail for about 7 minutes until you hit one of the small clearings. There should be a big piece of scrap metal beside the start of the trail. Take this trail down the hill. This trail will join up with another trail. When this happens, go right. Follow this trail for about 10 minutes along the lake. After passing the lake you should start to see the start of the bouldering area off to your left. Keep heading down the trail, always keeping to the left. After crossing a couple logs the trails will take a sharp turn to the left and you should end up a the overhang wall.

Center Stage: A long sandstone cliff with a great landing and tons of climbing opportunity. Most climbs here are eliminates due to the nature of the rock, but many of them are still high value. Stage Right: A small group of sandstone boulders just South of Center Stage. Estuary Roof: Some of the highest value climbs. A small sandstone shelf located down the beach from the main bouldering area. [NANAIMO BOULDERING GUIDE](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PYZZcl4dBR3U6ha-VNCc-cEcWD6dJLwp/view?usp=sharing) ^CLICK HERE^

A few boulders just down from Center Stage. Helps bridge the gap between the very easy and very hard climbs at Center Stage. [NANAIMO BOULDERING GUIDE](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PYZZcl4dBR3U6ha-VNCc-cEcWD6dJLwp/view?usp=sharing) ^CLICK HERE^

Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

The two cliffs at Beacon Heights (Phase I and Phase II) are located up above the left side of the Main Crag. To access this area, first make your way to the main crag before entering the forest using the hiking path on the far left side. Go past the unofficial latrine (Main Wall Left) further to the point just before the path curves left (if you see a large rock face on the right of the trail you've gone too far). From here take a sharp right and up the steep bouldery hill and follow the faint track, using the fixed ropes when available. Go left and you’ll get out of the forest onto a sandy slope with views of the city, and Phase I will be in front of you. It shouldn’t be more than 10 minutes from Beacon Main to here. Right before entering Phase I, look uphill and to your right and you’ll notice a series of steps carved into the soil, and the first of another series of fixed ropes to reach Phase II. It should be around 5 minutes from Phase I.

*** these multi-pitch climbs are Mixed climbs of Sport AND Gear*** http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_colbuttress_rrock.html Approach to base of Columbia Buttress The Last Tango, The Noose and Eternity From the intersection Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 S drive for 3.1 km along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge and past the traffic light of Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South as far as the Canada West Campground. There is a small parking area on the north side of the highway. Park your car there. From the parking area walk 50 meters towards north to a Columbia Buttress sign. There leave the road to the left (west), follow the well marked approach trail to a narrow rock gully. Now walk for the final few minutes up this rock gully to the base of the climbs. All routes start at the same base bolt. 20 minutes from highway. Approach to top of Columbia Buttress The Hanging Judge and Convicted Drive: From Revelstoke drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge to the traffic light at Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South, 900 meters from western access to Revelstoke. From the Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South traffic light turn right and follow the Westside Road for 3.8 km. There turn left and drive along the Boulder Mountain Logging Road for 10.6 km (check topo). This brings you to a road pullout and a turn-off leading to the left. Park your car there. Trail: From the road pull-out and turnoff follow the narrow turn-off road leading to the left (south) for 400 meters, to a small parking area with a great view over Revelstoke and the Columbia Valley. From there walk along a well marked trail in southerly direction, downhill to the tree line. There keep following the trail downhill for 50 meters where you will find a cedar tree with two clothing hooks. Leave your pack there, as The Hanging Judge and Convicted are topping out at this point. Now keep descending the trail to the rappel route for The Hanging Judge and Convicted. 10 minutes from the parking area.

Approach: From the Shapeshifter Boulder get back on the main trail until you reach a large, gravel trail. The path on the right will go downhill, going left will go uphill. Go left and uphill. You will see a municipal sign. Turn right at the sign. Take the next bike trail on the left and head uphill (there is a more direct trail behind the municipal sign but this trail has been closed by the park). Bank back towards the left. After 5 minutes of hiking you should see this isolated boulder. NOTE: This is a difficult one to find. If you find the Kamigoye Boulder, it is almost easier to back track. The boulder faces downhill.

Past redcliff a few miles, right exit by the barn, cross the bridge, park on the right once the road forks. trail is on the right, boulders on the left after about 5 minute walk

Approach: From the main trail where you exit to go to the Green Destiny Boulder, walk over the 1st bridge. When you see an opportunity to enter the forest on your left - no more that 40 m from the first bridge - take it (this should not be a bushwack). In the distance (less than 100 m, you will see a hill or mound. The Pool Side Boulders are on the back side of this hill facing a wetland.

First area developed at Duke Point. Great for endurance training on the massive traverse. Most climbs here are eliminates due to the nature of the rock, but many of them are still high value. [NANAIMO BOULDERING GUIDE](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PYZZcl4dBR3U6ha-VNCc-cEcWD6dJLwp/view?usp=sharing) ^CLICK HERE^

This smooth, wavy wall has some of the best quality rock in the area, but sees little traffic. Twenty-minute approach.

The Sunny Gold Coasts, Premier Sport Climbing crag. A collection of different sectors to choose from with varied climbing. From pockets to slabs to steep pumpy walls- perched high up off the deck, whatever you're into, Pages has it. Entry Wall: The cliff face on the walk in, ending just before the start of all The Gold Coast sector. This covers ~150m of cliff. The Sun Bowl is visible above this area. The Sun Bowl is the crown jewl of pages. a large orange bowl of excellent water worn volcanic rock about 20m off the deck. Climbs are powerful pumpers all with hard boulder problem cruxes. This is the hardest wall of the crag and a true test of power, capped with wicked exposure over the valley below. There are two belays that routes climb from. These two belays are connected via a fixed rope. To do the routes on the left, ramble up the vegetated Valencia or climb Are We Dancer. To access the right belay, you can climb Tinka Extension, or carefully Traverse across from the left belay station via the fixed rope. The Gold Coast: Sector to the right of the Entry Wall. The most popular sector at Pages Pinnacle. And for good reason! This wall provides every grade with a slab intro section into steep headwalls on excellent quality volcanic stone. The wall tends to be over-bolted so please study topos carefully.... Summit Wall: The big obvious grey and orange overhang at the top, high above Ice Cream Wall. Should produce some nice routes in the 20s in a great position. Lots of potential up here for many more routes. Ice Cream Wall is ~100m to the right of the Gold Coast Wall on the obvious, black and white streaked, gently overhung wall 20m off the deck that comes into view after passing the slabs. Routes tend to be sustained and with bouldery cruxes. Good foot work tends to be the most important factor here! Yorkshire Wall: Walk a further 5 minutes past the previous sectors until you spot an obvious square-cut, left facing pillar. This vertical wall provides excellent on your feet climbing. The Western Wall: The wall facing west that you first walk in (from the lower access location). Shaded in the mornings.

Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff – at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long. Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) – the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the “Great Gully”). To the left of the “Great Gully” is a smaller wall called “Mid-Wall”. The “Mid Wall” is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the “North Gully”. The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well. There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950’s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook “Central BC Rock” by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere. The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand. Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 “Icy BC”. New Route Development Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval. Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays. Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger. Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.

Rough Coordinates: (48.525001, -123.454244) Directions: From the Killarney Lake trail continue past the left turns to Cyberia to a fork. Turn left and follow this trail watching for rock on your left immediately after a seasonal creek.

~30 minute approach on trailhead from rest stop just before Boreal exit coming from Truckee.

The fourth free-standing pillar. Awkward to access. Either use a boat or, if water level is not too high, it may be possible to rap from steel bridge and cross a strip of land to pillar. Exit by ascending rap line or tyrolean from pillar top to bridge. There is also a rusty cable that runs between pillar one and pillar four. You may be able to shimmy along this, but this hasn't been tested.

aka. 'The Big Bend'. There is a ~30-40ft high cliff of rock along the HWY 11 exit ramp heading into Gravenhurst & Bethune Drive. This can be accessed via the Hahne Farm Trail with an entrance and small parking lot just across Bethune Dr. from the McDonald's.

Just 2 Climbs in here, both starting from inside the cave, and working out and up in different directions. The V6 is juggy to start, difficult to exit the cave, then slabby to the top. The V10 is powerful big moves to the lip, then slanted jugs up an arete. Both are 20+ moves.

Rodents ate the hand-drawn topo that used to be in the bucket up there, so crag photo provided below. All routes are accessed by rapping in - bring a jumar. Cold temps, sticky rubber, and good skin are essential! Most routes are still projects here. This wall is the diagonal, flat-looking face at the top of the hill above the Bayon, visible from the highway and at certain points along the creek. The climbing is pretty condition-dependent, so here are some tips to save you from hiking in and shredding your skin or otherwise just having a bad time: • The wall gets morning sun and afternoon shade. • It's relatively exposed and almost always gets strong wind, even when it's calm on the hike in. • Even in a light rain, the top of the wall will get wet. Keep in mind that this is your entry/exit route and it's presumably not a great place to be if there's a chance of lightning. • Just about all chalk will wash off the routes after a day of rain. • If you don't know what antihydral is or you're not a masochist, this might not be the crag for you.

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

Squamish-like boulders in the city! Park at the end of Lynn Valley Rd. Hike in by following the signs for the Lynn Loop trail. After about 1.7km of walking on a flat gravel path along the river, you will gain about 100m of elevation on switchbacks. At the top, just after you cross a wooden bridge, you will see a signpost labeled "Boulders" that points to a trail at your left. Follow it to a cluster of 2 tall boulders. Look for a trail, again on your left, heading north to take you to the rest of the boulders. The approach takes about 30 minutes.

Cranberry Walls This is the most southern climbing area in Revelstoke, located a few km south of Cranberry Lake on Highway 23 South. The history of this beautiful crag started already in the mid nineties when Dean Flick has built the first route on the most southerly cliff. However, it was not until 2010 when the two Williams brothers and true Revelstoke locals Ryan and Nic have put their heart into this area. With their endless energy and enthusiasm they have built trails, scrubbed the rock and established this amazing new climbing area. How To Get There From the turnoff of the Trans Canada Highway onto Highway 23 South, west of Revelstoke, drive along Highway 23 South for 35.9 km, or 12.7 km south of the Blanket Creek Bridge. At km 35.9 you will find a large, to the left leading turn with two pull-out at the left side of the road. Park your car on the second (southerly) pull-out. Follow the well-established trail at the south-east corner of this pull-out, leading through the most beautiful forest and past a wide creek to the base of the crag, 12 minutes from the parking lot

From Canmore, take the Three Sisters Parkway up past the Nordic Centre to Whitemans Pond. Continue along the gravel road (Smith Dorrien Trail) to the beginning of the Spray Lakes Reservoir. Turn right following signs to West Spray Lakes Campground, continuing to follow the road as it bends left farther into the campground. After 1.5km there will be a large grassy pullout on your right with a sign “Trailhead Parking”, park here. There are two spots to begin hiking. The first can be accessed through the “Trailhead” parking lot by taking the obvious trail leading from it. The second is accessed by walking farther down the gravel road until you see a “no parking” sign on a gate. Follow the trail behind the gate. This is the faster route and will skip a steep hill. The trail winds through the forest following a creek for most of the hike. After approximately 2.5km you enter a rocky clearing with a waterfall on your right and the boulders easily visible to the left. Take the last small section of trail through the band of trees to access the boulders. A trail continues up and right of the boulder field; it leads up to the old goat glacier. Hikers frequent the area to view Old Goat Glacier up in the higher valley.ogistics The total hike time is around 30min. With 200m elevation gain over the 2.5km it makes for an easy hike. Three good sized pads and a decent spotter will let you climb almost all of the problems. More pads will be a necessity on some problems, while very few require less than three. Almost all of the boulders face north, and hardly ever come into sun. Most of the slab climbs get morning sun, and the entire valley becomes shaded around 4-6 PM. Once past the upper Grassi Lakes parking lot, cell reception is lost. So keep this in mind when planning your day. **Please note the campground is closed from mid-September to mid-May** **The hike will be 1.5km or about 20min longer during these times.**

12m wall near the South Peak with an open East aspect. Four bolted puzzles increase in difficulty and steepness from right to left; all face climbing which asks for a bit of study before giving up its secrets. Rock is sound and falls are clean. Left-hand routes share a rap anchor; right-hand routes share another.

This crag is the first deep canyon on the left as you walk into EPC. if you head up to the south facing walls on the left side of the canyon you will get to Avenida de la Revolucion and Nomad walls. They are home to the more difficult climbs in Los Lobos and they receive afternoon sun. The main wall is Lobos wall - North facing on the right side of the canyon. Here you will find some great routes including the classic multi-pitch Will the Wolf Survive.

Route from left to right: 1.) Megalodon (5.11b/c) - mostly nice climbing on good holds with a defined crux protected by small RPs. FA Tom Wright 2.) Mastodon (5.12a) - another vicious right to left leaning crack - lots of small finger size gear for the crux. FA Paul Mcsorley 3.) Sabretooth (5.12a) - fun steep athletic climbing up the centre of the wall - good protection the whole way. FA Tom Wright 4.) Omnivorous (5.11d) - shares same start as Sabretooth but transitions right into the finger sized flake, hand crack and burly layback finish. FA Tony Richardson

Climber's left. The routes here are long and vertical to slightly slabby