In Cedar City. The Dark Tower Area is the sub-crag located on the NW end of The Running Scared Wall. It has the second largest cluster of routes as well as the largest range of grades. The quality of rock here varies, and with that being said, its the best at wall. This area faces west and is in the sun for a marjority of the day. Shade can be found in the morning and can also be chased by climbing routes around and behind The Dark Tower. Getting There The Dark Tower is near the furthest north-end of the buttress, if following the main trail, continue along past the School Room for an estimated 500 feet until a steep, wavy tower appears.
This awesome smaller, steeper, venue is found at the eastern terminus of the Ostraland cliff line 30m right (west) of The Far Right sector of the Painted Wall. The cliff had only one completed route until the fall of 2022 and housed another of Larry Ostrander’s recently rediscovered old shunt/top rope projects. The first lead climb at this sector was called Welcome to the Dark Side. It was the last route established during the busy development season of 2020 on the shady side of the Moose Mountain Crags and was included in the recent Bow Valley Sport guide out in 2021. Late in the fall of 2022 Ross Suchy added two new 30 lines. One called Let There Be Light, a redevelopment of a lost Larry Ostrander shunt problem. Inspired by this new interest in the cliff. Andy Genereux with an intense two week effort added another seven new lines left of his original climb Welcome to the Dark Side in the late spring of 2023. This cliff features, steepish climbing overall, with most routes having defined crux sections of shorter duration. Simply a very fun place to climb..! Another bonus is all the routes generally stay dry during the rain giving it another great feature besides the all day shade this wall provides.
The Dark Side Wall is located to the right of Pillar Wall.
Dark side of the moon is the first crag to the south of Stone Temple. This is a highly featured 150ft face with amazing chert climbing!
Better description under Nanaimo River Boulders best accessed from the Dark Side parking.
Comox Lake is a wonderful area of climbing located in Cumberland, BC. Mostly Basalt; moderate temperatures as it is within the trees. If you are going to do any amount of climbing at Comox Lake, many climbers who recommend that you pick up a copy of John Waters' "Comox Valley Climbs" (Printed by First Choice Books, 2009, 2011) Much time has gone into writing it, and it is an invaluable guide to the climbing community at Comox Lake.
http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_waterworld_rrock.html Waterworld---- 11.9 km N from mica creek turnoff in Revelstoke Waterworld is a unique and exciting place to climb, all climbs start right out of the deep waters of the Revelstoke Lake. An adventurous style of climbing on steep enjoyable cliffs. All three cliffs face west and have a total height of up to 90 meters. The Waterworld has three large cliffs, Gilligans Island, Voyage Cliff and Gangplank. All three cliffs are accessible from Hwy 23 North with a short walk and several rappels, or for the more adventurous climbers, a canoe paddle up the scenic lake to the start of the steep climbs. Climbing at Waterworld is definitely more serious then on shorter crags such as Begbie Bluffs or Shaketown. Once you have rappelled you are committed and have to be able to climb at least the easiest route on the crag to make it back up... unless you plan to hitch a ride with an occasional fishing-boat. Further, good rope handling and rappelling skills are important to safely climb at Waterworld.
Most dramatic feather of Comox lake climbing. Stepped bluffs that rise 100m out of the waters of Comox lake.
This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge overlooking tropical paradise. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads! Watch out for broken glass over lips and in cracks, make sure you check out your holds before you climb. Enjoy the beautiful quartzite and volcanic stone, watching the surfers, overlooking beautiful coastal Gold Coast.
AKA Hostility Boulders As you enter into ham creek park off of fm916 there are a few boulders on the left side of the road. Limestone rock, with a few ok problems, there is never anyone there. Not worth a long drive... Although the cliffs above the brazos, (south) next to ham creek park are an adventure and full of possibilities! See google earth and look at the dark lines...Currently there are 3 main boulders. The swamp boulder, the Titan, and the tidal wave boulder which is above the large Titan boulder.
This area is on private property. Please work with the local climbing community to discuss access and avoid publishing directions to this area online. The cliffs are shaded almost all the time regardless of season or time of day - great in the summer but chilly in the winter. The rock is fairly solid sandstone with mostly vertical routes as well as a few slabs. Moss can be an issue due to the continuous shade, do your part and scrub a section! The primordial feeling amphitheater you enter upon dropping down into the gorge is known as "The Boom Boom Room". Surprisingly, parts of this area remain dry even in rain due to the slight overhang on the main wall and tree cover. Top access on the main wall is good, but the anchors for some of the routes on the detached pillar in the Boom Boom Room are difficult to access.
Follow the path past Arm Your Thoughts towards the rockfall area and this boulder is the large obvious new boulder
Meditation Point is located to the right of The Dark Side Wall.
The Shaman is an often overlooked crag despite its relatively short approach and good quality climbing. This might be because it's shady to the point of being dark (not a bad thing in the middle of the summer) and because its climbs are neither sport nor trad. They are "adventure sport" or whatever you want to call routes that are bolted, but only every twenty or thirty feet.
The Uncharted Sea is a large dark slab on the east side of the canyon, above the Alley. It features a small selection of climbs from 5.5 to 5.10a, all requiring footwork and technical skills.
Probably the most popular crag in the Nordegg area, and some of the best climbing as well. Routes go from 5.8-5.11d with potential for a lot more. Mostly vertical climbing on limestone pockets with lots of interesting roofs and cracks to deal with as well. Bring bug spray and a helmet.
A small sandstone amphitheater with a dramatic overhang in the center. Rock quality is solid. Good top rope access.
The Apprentice Boulder is a large, dark boulder located to the immediate left (West) of the SME Boulder. Most of the boulder is too easy to really offer much climbing, but some fun can be had under the small overhanging section that faces the approach trail. Please pack out any trash, and stick to the paths to minimize erosion. The area sees lots of use, so please be respectful of others.
Better description under Nanaimo River. Boulders best accessed from crossing the river from Sunny Side.
This is a progression list, where for every V9 one climbs, they should be able to climb 2 V8s, 4 V7s, 8 V6s, etc. The most difficult line at Frank Slide is Dark Age (V11/12), so we'll use that as the apex, and add in the best problems of each grade as I track them down (to be brief, I'll only add 8 V7's and 8 V6's; a total of 31 problems).