Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge overlooking tropical paradise. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads! Watch out for broken glass over lips and in cracks, make sure you check out your holds before you climb. Enjoy the beautiful quartzite and volcanic stone, watching the surfers, overlooking beautiful coastal Gold Coast.

Was once a quite and secluded area from the main populace where you could find quiet and not many climbers ... ... Chippewa Creek Gorge was formed by glacier movements thousands of years ago. These glaciers exposed outcrops of Shale, Berea Sandstone, and Euclid Bluestone. In the late 1800s the Berea Sandstone and the Euclid Bluestone were quarried for use as building materials. This ended in the early 20th century due to a decreased demand for natural stone for construction. Brecksville Reservation was declared a public park soon after. In the late 1990s the first information about climbing in the park was posted to another rock climbing website. Problems were put up and documented by that generation of climbers, but not everything was posted back then, and the website ended up becoming defunct. Legal access to the park for climbing was problematic. There was a high risk of getting your gear confiscated by park rangers. Around this time, Jeffery Bonatti created a series of hand drawn “Ruff Guides” for the park, but they weren’t highly accessible. Due to this lack of organized information, each subsequent generation of climbers claimed FAs and gave names to lines that have likely been claimed and named multiple times before throughout the years. To add to this, the moss and lichen covers boulders that don’t see much traffic and makes it look like they’ve never been touched. The creek changes the sand bars and covers or reveals footholds and washes away evidence of being climbed. Currently, the park is more accessible and more developed for climbing than recent history. There is a trail being made by the park system going from the main Gorge Rim trail down to the creek where Pinch Arete and Keyhole are. Due to the volume of climbers that have been recreating in the park, it no longer feels sketchy to walk in with pads for a session due to power of the masses. On any pleasant day you can fully expect to see other people climbing. Work is being done to organize the lines into a definitive list with proper photos, names, locations, and grades. On the topic of conditions, many problems have had holds broken off in recent years due to being climbed when the rock is still wet. The boulders in the creek itself are much more tolerant to this due to many years of water erosion, but the rock higher up on the cliff line isn’t used to this kind of stress and breaks surprisingly easy. Surprising like, wow I’m falling but the hold is still in my hands, surprising. It usually takes a solid three days of dryness and wind to get back into shape after a good, longer in the spring and winter. The main parking area for climbing access is the Pavilion area at the East end of Chippewa Creek Drive. It isn’t the first lot by the waterfall, it is ~1000ft down the road, where there are four parking areas grouped together with a swing set and a pavilion. If you walk straight North from the swing set you'll find the chained entrance to the climbing trail with a sign that states “Stay on the designated trail.” Stay on designated trails. Check out climbchippewa.com for more assistance and this WIP map of problems/info/location ----> https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1n3KipMBR1zOSon5n8RcScCqQkjStPMV7&ll=41.31983427452158%2C-81.6170396062424&z=17

Located in Willow Springs, Ragged Edges is arguably the most popular area in Red Rocks for short trad routes. Rock quality is very good and it is only a 5-10 minute walk from the Picnic Area parking lot. Most routes do not have top anchors and thus require rappelling from neighboring anchors or a walk off. The namesake route and Chicken Eruptus are both considered Red Rocks classics.

Sector 4 has a wide variety of routes in terms of style and difficulty. The right side of Sector 4 (from Chicken Heads to Grune Raupe) gets shade in the early morning from around 7 - 10 am, while the rest of the sector is in the sun all morning. All of Sector 4 gets shade by early afternoon.

*** these multi-pitch climbs are Mixed climbs of Sport AND Gear*** http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_colbuttress_rrock.html Approach to base of Columbia Buttress The Last Tango, The Noose and Eternity From the intersection Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 S drive for 3.1 km along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge and past the traffic light of Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South as far as the Canada West Campground. There is a small parking area on the north side of the highway. Park your car there. From the parking area walk 50 meters towards north to a Columbia Buttress sign. There leave the road to the left (west), follow the well marked approach trail to a narrow rock gully. Now walk for the final few minutes up this rock gully to the base of the climbs. All routes start at the same base bolt. 20 minutes from highway. Approach to top of Columbia Buttress The Hanging Judge and Convicted Drive: From Revelstoke drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge to the traffic light at Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South, 900 meters from western access to Revelstoke. From the Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South traffic light turn right and follow the Westside Road for 3.8 km. There turn left and drive along the Boulder Mountain Logging Road for 10.6 km (check topo). This brings you to a road pullout and a turn-off leading to the left. Park your car there. Trail: From the road pull-out and turnoff follow the narrow turn-off road leading to the left (south) for 400 meters, to a small parking area with a great view over Revelstoke and the Columbia Valley. From there walk along a well marked trail in southerly direction, downhill to the tree line. There keep following the trail downhill for 50 meters where you will find a cedar tree with two clothing hooks. Leave your pack there, as The Hanging Judge and Convicted are topping out at this point. Now keep descending the trail to the rappel route for The Hanging Judge and Convicted. 10 minutes from the parking area.

Chinese Mountains are a group of rocky knolls on the southeast flank of Mt Seymour a 600m-high, forested hill that dominates the topography of central Quadra Island. Chinese Mountains overlook the southern peninsula of Quadra and has a network of well-maintained hiking trails that takes many hikers and climbers to some fantastic lookouts to the views of the Salish Sea, Rebecca Spit and the mountains of Strathcona Park and the mainland Coast Range. There are over 260 established routes at Chinese Mountains and nearby Morte Lake. The rock is andesite, a type of volcanic basalt. Most of the routes are bolt-protected sport routes. There are some mixed trad and bolt protected routes and just a handful of purely trad climbs. Almost all the belay anchors are bolted and equipped with rappel rings, those that aren't are generally adjacent to readily accessible anchors that do have rings. The climbs on Quadra Island have been developed with belays located at ledges. This makes the anchors for the single-pitch routes more accessible for setting up top ropes and fits well with the aesthetic of multi-pitch climbing and acquiring the skills for that. There are only a few routes with anchors 'over-the-edge, for lead and lower. It is recommended to carry several long (120cm) slings and locking carabiners and have the skills to set up equalized anchors. Different styles are possible but the climbs are set up for a leader to belay following climbers from the top anchor and the team descending either by rappel or walking-off. Please do not run ropes through the rappel rings for repeated top roping. Build an anchor and the last climber down can either thread the rope through the rings for lowering or rappelling, or walk-off where suitable.

The Rock: Ranging from slab to overhangs, this rock represents more of the Castlegar goodness you know and love. Lots of unique features allow for steep overhanging routes to go at reasonable grades. The climbing sits about 350m higher in elevation than the Castlegar valley bottom, lending to crisp morning temps even on the hottest days. You can expect the sun to come around at about 1:30 PM. Recent Climbing History: We are still gathering info so we can document past work done by the pioneers. Folks like Gord Lindsay, Shawn Tasker, JT Croston, Cam Shute, Ian Macdonald and Mark Senyk (among many others) have been climbing here for decades. Please contact us with all info that you have. There is significant evidence of prior climbing ranging from old webbing & anchors, to bolts of various vintage. It’s safe to assume that any clean cracks have been climbed. Access has always been the limiting factor until recently. Stephen Senecal and I took a renewed interest in the area in the Fall of 2018, and plans were made to request access. Trail Building to the bluffs began in earnest in Spring 2019, with Castlegar locals Andrew Osnach and Greg Mooney joining to explore the area and route the trail up to the Launch wall. The first new modern sport routes (Arms race 11a and Facepalm 11c) were added to the area a few weeks after. The quality and quantity of the area was immediately apparent. Nic Williams, Jarrad Monger Andrew Osnach, Greg Mooney, Liam Barnes and Keith Story joined the action. Always searching for futuristic lines, Nic Williams discovered the loft in the fall of 2019 (and its amazing horizontal roof flake), and dropped everything to establish this ultra-classic hard sport climb. Much to our surprise, the loft gave way to the highest concentration of moderate climbing at the bluffs (so far). 2020 brought the addition of the Picnic Bluff crags (Hawkeye, Craftbrew and Shadetree Crags). Allen Rollin and Jarrad Monger turned their attention to the obvious mixed lines at the Launch wall. Keith Robine and Nicolas P.I. added some great multipitch climbs. Lots of new sport and gear routes are in development, stay tuned!

For free topos, photos, and all the info you need, visit www.revelstokebouldering.ca The boulders are found West of Revelstoke on the EAGLE PASS FSR (forest service road) off of the trans-canada HWY # 1. From the main intersection accessing Revelstoke (Victoria/Laforme and HWY 1) you must head West towards Kamloops on the HWY. You will cross the mighty Columbia River and reach the intersection for HWY 23 South/Westsyde RD. (also a set of lights) - this is where you restart your odometer!! Continue past the intersection for 7 km's and until you have JUST passed the second set of passing-lanes from town. Use the shoulder of the HWY to slow down and turn RIGHT onto Eagle Pass FSR. *If the road dead-ends in 100 metres, you've turned on the wrong road and turned too early!* The Eagle Pass road will perform switch-back immediately and climb up the slopes. Once you have gone 700 metres and you have crossed a dry creek (if your lucky) you will have reached an area to park at the edge of the Cut-block on the left. Pull-over and Park. From parking you will continue up the FSR 20 metres to the P-Boulder and trail-head marked with Cairns on the right side and upwards on the mountain-slope. Note: FSR 20 has been refurbished. You can park at the apex of the first switchback and walk along the gravel road for about 500m before it turns to a faint trail that leads you to the Warmups Area. Note: Bring a large brush and bring your friends to this area, with some love it can be a great bouldering spot!

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_victor_rrock.html How to get there Coming from Revelstoke: Drive along the Trans Canada highway (Hwy1) towards west (Vancouver). Once you crossed the Columbia River Bridge and reached the turnoff for Hwy 23 S (traffic light), start counting the kilometers as you keep driving west along Hwy 1. At km 13.8 you come to a paved truck pullout, directly in between the highway and Victor Lake (second lake west of Revelstoke). This is a good place to park your car. Please do not park at the gravel pullout 280 meters east, dangerous for oncoming fast moving traffic. Coming from Vernon, Kamloops or Sicamous: Drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards east (Calgary). Once you are past the prominent red hotel at Three Valley Gap, keep driving towards east for another few kilometers. This will bring you across a bridge and further to the Victor Lake (third lake east of Sicamous). Park at the prominent paved truck pullout. Approach From the paved truck pullout in between the highway and Victor Lake walk for 280 meters along Hwy 1 towards east. This brings you to a gravel pullout (don’t park your car there). Cross the highway to its north side (caution fast driving cars and trucks). There walk along an overgrown road for approximately 80 meters towards east (historical wagon road from Sicamous to Revelstoke). From this point, walk up the steep trail to the base of the Victor Lake Wall. For the routes "Return of the Osprey", "Trans Canada" and "Pan America" branch off to the right shortly prior the actual wall (sign). For all other routes keep following the main trail aiming straight up and slightly climber left. 15 minutes from the highway. Descent for all Victor Lake Wall Routes From the top of the Victor Lake Wall walk down the marked trail towards west and eventually in south direction. This brings you within 30 to 35 minutes back to your car at the Victor Lake and the Trans Canada Highway. Just as on the Squamish Grand Wall or any route on Yamnuska, bring a super light pack and light approach shoes, climb one of the many grand routes and after the climb enjoy the quick walk down back to the highway. The Goat Ledge The Goat Ledge is the prominent large ledge separating the entire upper wall from the lower wall. The Victor Ledge allows climbers to bail from any route as you walk towards west, along this large ledge to the Ninth Symphony / The Mission. After you arrive at the fourth belay anchor of The Mission, rappel straight down the lower part of the Ninth Symphony and the Baldwin Start. (35m, 30m, 28m, 28m). In between Return of the Osprey and Restless Spirits is a fixed rope.

Quadra Island is the main Island in the Discovery Islands archipelago. It has about 2,700 year round residents and is a popular place for tourists because it's accessible, has lots of high quality outdoor activities and arts related things to do and see. The highest concentration of climbing routes is at Chinese Mountains where there are over 260 climbs developed. With the excellent trail network doing the heavy lifting the access to the crags is pretty straightforward although newcomers will want to pay close attention to the guidebook descriptions to navigate the maze of paths through the forest between the crags. There is granite and volcanic andesite found on Quadra Island. Because of the rain-shadow effect of the Vancouver Island mountains and mostly south-facing exposure the rock is surprisingly clean and dry for coastal BC. The locals pretty-much climb every month of the year. The rock character is outstanding and combined with the spectacular scenery this area is one of the best climbing areas in the Vancouver Island region. Most of the anchors are set up with more traditional climbing practices in mind, meaning that it's expected that a leader will belay a second from the top anchor and the team will then descend by walking off or rappelling. Only a few climbs are set up gym-style with over-the-edge-anchors for lead & lower. This suits the character of the crags and ledges, is the intent of the developers to fit with the multi-pitch skills and experience found here, and generally does facilitate easier access for setting top ropes. Bring slings and locking carabiners and be prepared to set up your own equalized anchors. Detailed guidebook is available from Wild Isle Publications: http://www.wildisle.ca/quadrarockclimbs/index.html

A set of south- and east-facing granite bluffs near the golf course between Agassiz and Harrison Hot Springs. The climbing features slab, crack and face climbing on grippy, fine-grained stone featured with many xenolithic inclusions which weather to give pockets of all size from monodoight to head sized. The Harrison Bluffs saw most of its traffic in the 1990's, but popularity died out somewhat and many routes became overgrown. Recently (2006+) climbers have been cleaning the area again to improve the mossy state of several climbs. Also several new routes are being cleaned. The rock in the area is very solid granite and it offers many nice slab and crack climbs ranging from 5.8'ish and up. The developement of some boulders on the East and West sides of the bluffs has been on going since this revitalization of the area. Though the landings can be challenging there are some instant classics in here well worth the time and effort. The climbing is at its best between March and November but is low-elevation enough to be good on sunny days through the winter. In general, weekdays are pretty quiet and weekends see up to a half dozen parties climbing. The range of grades is generally 5.8 and up and there are climbs up to 6 pitches long, plus extensive bouldering.

Eagle Crag is the highest bluff in the Chinese Mountains area at around 60m. The situation up on the south-facing hillside gives spectacular view of the surrounding Strathcona and Mainland Coast Range Mountains and adds to the exposure and atmosphere of the outstanding climbs. There are several faces and sub-crags so it takes some attention to detail to get oriented and locate the routes. The access path from the Chinese Mountains trail system arrives at the east (right) side of the crag. Branching uphill at this east end is the access path to the top of the crag and routes on Flying Snag Wall and Raven Corner. Continuing along the lower main path brings you to the base of the Main Wall and then continues west (climber's left) to the West Wing and at the end a path runs up to the top and down a forested draw to the base of Lower Eagle. Most of the routes are between 40 and 60m long. Some have mid-stations to break the routes into two pitches and where the climbing justifies it the anchors allow for lowering and top roping the lower pitches from the mid-point belays. Of these routes some work well to fire in one pitch. It's easy to tell on lead with directions from the guidebook as to how to best tackle each line. The rock is superb, solid andesite basalt which varies from steeper, clean, smooth grey texture to slightly off vertical, weathered coarse rock. There are a handful of Trad routes with one or two being exceptional quality. But as with most of the climbs on the Vancouver Island basalt the majority are sport routes with generous bolt protection.

Tanomah is sure to become a must-visit climbing destination as climber benefit from easy access to the rock, comfortable camping, favourable year-round temperatures at 2,000m altitude, friendly locals and huge scope for climbing with both sun and shade options at all grades. Wall of Shadows is located in the Al Sharaf park, just ten minutes from the center of Tanomah in Asir Province and a quick ten minute walk from the first crag and parking/camping area. Equipping at the Wall of Shadows was undertaken by the Saudi Climbing and Hiking Federation during the second phase of the Saudi Bolting Project in 2019. The team: project leader and author, Read Macadam, A. Mountaun Guide Piergiorgio Lotito, accomplished climber Alex Ruscior along with Federation's board member and climber Abdulrahman Alabdu equipped 40 new pithces between October 7th and 21st of 2019. The stone at Wall of Shadows is solid sandstone with magnificent granite and quartzite infusions. The climbing differs from the initial crag, Al Sharaf, in that it is entirely in the shade and therefore comfortable to climb all day and year-round. The style of climbing at Wall of Shadows ranges from immaculate slabs to steep physical climbing on pockets. Because it is in the shade, moss and lichen grows quite quickly. Please bring your brush to keep the lichen at bay, as well as to brush your excess chalk. More initiatives of the Saudi Climbing and Hiking Federation can be found at climbing.sa

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff – at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long. Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) – the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the “Great Gully”). To the left of the “Great Gully” is a smaller wall called “Mid-Wall”. The “Mid Wall” is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the “North Gully”. The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well. There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950’s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook “Central BC Rock” by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere. The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand. Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 “Icy BC”. New Route Development Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval. Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays. Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger. Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.

The Flatirons are synonymous with Boulder and the history of rock climbing in North America. It would be hard to find another location in the country where such an extensive variety, from scrambling to hard "Head Point" routes exist so close to a major metro area. They form the backdrop to Boulder and are the centerpiece of Boulder's Open Space system. There are three main areas: Flatirons North: This area includes classic rocks such as the First, Second, and Third Flatirons, along with the Amphitheatre in Gregory Canyon. Climbs here range from short newer-age sport climbs to long trad routes, including some of the longer trad routes in the area, the whole face of the 3rd Flatiron, which is about 1300 feet and the Direct East Face of the 1st which is about 1400 feet. Hard conglomerate Fountain Formation sandstone is the medium for your rock craft. Flatirons Central: There are many rocks to explore in this area. The "Central" zone spans Bear Canyon to the Ironing Boards (just South of the 3rd Flatiron). Slabmongers can have many field days exploring the numerous smaller Flatirons, and there's a good amount of trad and even sport among these rocks. Have fun in this scenic setting. Flatirons South: This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, East Ridge, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and The Goose offer slabs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest climb in the area is here. There is plenty to explore here. (Note: Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb. 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr. 1 to Aug. 31. Historically, some of these have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Sphinx, Medusa, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, Bear Creek Spire, Harmon Cave (bats), East Face of The Hand (bats), East Face of The Finger Flatiron (bats), East Face of Der Zerkle (bats), Dreadnaught, Achean Pronoucement, Skunk Canyon Ridge 2 & west, Sacred Cliffs, East & West Ironing Boards, The Third Flatiron, Queen Anne's Head, occasionally Gregory Amphitheatre, and possibly others.) (Source: Mountain Project)

THIS AREA IS NOW CLOSED The tenure of this land has now changed to Reserve for Aboriginal and cultural purposes. This land has many cultural and environmental values and is a special place for Aboriginal people. The Dhagun Yumba Aboriginal Corporation has been appointed as trustee for the land and asks that you respect the cultural significance of the area by not entering and climbing on the land. FINES APPLY FOR BREACH - CULTURAL HERITAGE ACT Do NOT ENTER This legislation helps land users and Traditional Owners protect and manage cultural heritage. It requires anyone who carries out a land use activity to exercise a duty of care. This 'duty of care' means land users must take all reasonable and practicable measures to ensure their activity does not harm Aboriginal cultural heritage. Fines of up to $133,450 for an individual and $1,334,500 for a corporation apply for causing unlawful harm to Aboriginal cultural heritage or for breaching the duty of care may apply. Cultural heritage duty of care guidelines have been developed to help land users in assessing reasonable and practicable measures for meeting the cultural heritage duty of care. Land users should consult the duty of care guidelines before undertaking a land use activity.

Hi Everyone! wn a better description for Gold Mine, firstly I'd like to introduce myself! My name is Brendan Baars, a climber from Michigan. I was a part of the main 3 guys that found and established Gold Mine and The Nooks. The Nooks is what we call the whole area and Gold Mine is just a sub area to the region. I am writing this because Gold Mine has received so much attention from everyone in Ontario! I'm blown away with the response to the area and thank everyone that put in time and effort to maintain the trails and develop boulders for everyone. I have mainly been the leading charge for putting the information out there for everyone to enjoy and will continue to do so with everyone's help! I love to hear from people about their experience, especially if new boulders get developed! I would love for you to message me on Instagram (BrendanBaars). The guidebook for the area has been released and below you can find a link to buy it. In addition is video information on most of the climbs throughout the videos/youtube channels. INFORMATION: Guidebook https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/Guidebooks/the-nooks-bouldering/ This area located near the Eyeball multi-pitch climbing area includes very easy access with short approaches to big boulder fields. Found in 2018, the general area has the potential for thousands of problems from V0-Vpro. As of now we have established something like 170+ problems in the main area called the gold mine and is located off a paved road with a 3-minute approach. The boulders range from 10' to 30' with mostly good landings and the proximity being as good or better than LRC in Chattanooga. Virtually all the boulders are within 5 minutes of each other. It's like walking through a maze. Topo: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118166169/the-dreamersbush-nookie-boulders https://www.climbsudbury.com/gold-mine Videos The Nooks Film - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDGLjsdJ_Jw What got the hype started - https://vimeo.com/363284129 My Youtube Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKFSs9Cn007bK6LmANNHQ4Q?app=desktop Danny Plonkas Youtube Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQzvGZIfL_KyDnr1-bagLNg

High quality granite scree and glacial erratics with nice forest floor landings within a pristine wilderness setting alongside the headwaters of a crystal clear river that are accessed by a all wheel drive service road that is currently a bit mangled due to fresh logging. However road is still awd access (not 4wd) with adequate clearance and driving skills (don’t spin tires because it damages road) Boulders are near the town of Gibsons BC. the home of Persephone Brewery and many great eateries. The most reliable time to visit is May through September but other times can be spectacular, weather permitting. The adventurous and newly established Ice and Fire Zone extending from Roadside Zone up 1.5 km requires all wheel drive and experienced off road driving skills or 4 wheel drive and careful driving. Driving to halfway point of this zone and parking near tower or just before is recommended to inexperienced off road drivers because road gets very rough and steep after tower. It is also possible to walk to the Ice and Fire zone from roadside zone parking.

OVERVIEW: The Red River Gorge—simply “The Red”—is one of North America’s premier sport climbing destinations. Its pocketed sandstone cliffs, steep overhangs, and endless variety make it a must-visit for climbers worldwide. The area is known for long, pumpy endurance routes, striking orange walls, and a friendly, tight-knit community centered around Miguel’s Pizza—an iconic basecamp for climbers. STYLE: Predominantly sport climbing, with thousands of bolted routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.15. Traditional climbing exists too, especially in the less-traveled Northern Gorge. Expect overhanging jug hauls, technical face climbs, and occasional crack lines. ACCESS & ETHICS: Many cliffs are on private land maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC)—respect closures, pack out all trash, and stay on marked trails. A small parking donation helps maintain access roads and facilities. TIPS: Bring a 60–70m rope and plenty of quickdraws (up to 18). Conditions dry quickly after rain, but some cliffs seep for days. Rest days? Hike to Natural Bridge or swim in the Red River. VIBE: Laid-back, inclusive, and fueled by pizza and red clay dust. Whether you’re projecting 5.13s or clipping your first bolts, The Red delivers a mix of challenge, community, and sandstone perfection found nowhere else.

Cougar Canyon Bouldering: The main concentration of the bouldering here is in the Moss Hollow/Down Under area which is located hidden amongst the trees in the middle of the canyon. The Alice Boulder is another recent discovery that is a few minute’s walk from the main area that hosts many other great problems. Since last fall lots of new problems and development has been going on, it seems like the potential is endless for those with a keen eye. There are a few problems scattered about the area that are not covered in this guide solely because they are spread way out and the information is limited . The rock here is Monashee Gneiss, so it tends to be really featured and grippy, every once and a while you will encounter some loose stuff (especially if on the bigger rope routes) but most of the boulder problems in this guide are on the good solid stuff. Bouldering is a great social way of climbing, and can be great training for big routes. Get out and give it a shot, the landing are mainly good here, and the atmosphere can be very refreshing on a hot summer day!! Be safe, use good spotting techniques and pads, and try to leave a lasting impression.

[Area guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk) • Step 1. Getting to the Hartland landfill When leaving Victoria head toward the ferries. Before you head up the last hill out of town there is the Royal Oak exit. Take this exit and then turn left and cross the bridge over the highway. After crossing the bridge you will hit your first set of lights. Go straight through this intersection and then take a right at the next lights. The road you will be turning onto will be West Saanich road. Follow this road for quite a while until you seen Hartland road on your left. Turn onto this road and follow it until just before you head into the dump. There is a big parking lot at to the right off the road. Pull in there and park. • Step 2. Getting to the boulders Once parked, follow the mountain bike trail to the left of the road. You will follow the fence for a while and then pass the skills area. Next you will head downward and cross a creek and then climb a small hill. At the top of the hill you'll want to take a left onto one of the bike trails. Follow this trail for about 7 minutes until you hit one of the small clearings. There should be a big piece of scrap metal beside the start of the trail. Take this trail down the hill. This trail will join up with another trail. When this happens, go right. Follow this trail for about 10 minutes along the lake. After passing the lake you should start to see the start of the bouldering area off to your left. Keep heading down the trail, always keeping to the left. After crossing a couple logs the trails will take a sharp turn to the left and you should end up a the overhang wall.

Nestled in the woods off the east side of Route 73 (across from Chapel Pond) is a great, little crag with several quality routes. The aptly named Creature Wall hosts a range of climbing from 5.5 to 5.10, and offers several routes referencing Steven King novels, such as "Christine", "Firestarter", "Pet Cemetery", and "Cujo". This cliff has the highest concentration of 5.8s (7 total) in Keene Valley, so if you are looking to test your meddle at said grade, look no further. The cliff sits among a thick, forested hillside below Washbowl and is oriented toward the west. As a result, it offers shade in the morning and warm afternoons. To compliment this, all the climbs are single pitch, thus offering a nice option for those wanting to take it down a notch and enjoy a "mellow" day at the crag. The climbing is a healthy mixture of thin face and vertical crack climbing (from thin fingers to paw-swallowing handcracks), with the majority of the routes clocking in at around the 5.7 to 5.9 range. This is not a crag to visit when it rains, nor can you expect it to dry out quickly after it does rain. On nice weekends in the summer and fall, expect to have some neighbors at this cliff. Because of its proximity to the road, and the ease of toproping, it is occasionally the site of guided groups. This cliff is also along the approach trail to the Washbowl Cliffs, so you may also see some traffic from people climbing at the crags above you. Enjoy the climbing here for its quality of cracks, variety of movement, and beautiful views from the top of the cliff.

This spectacular lookout trail above the West Arm of Kootenay Lake looking over the city of Nelson is one of the finest hiking spots in the area. With a huge amount of volunteer effort from several locals, it certainey is a work of art. As you clamber up the thousands of rock steps, it will surely give you a sense of how much work was required to bring this trail to its current state. Now, combine this awesome hiking trail with a fantastic Granite Sport Climb and you have an adventure in the making! Although only one route exists, its exposed position over the valley below, the quality of the climbing and the beautiful rock, make for a very fine outing. You are literally belaying and climbing with 500 ft. of air below you and the moves on the route are sure to give you a rush! The climb itself faces south, dries quickly due to the exposed nature of the rock, always seems to have a breeze and goes into the shade late afternoon (making it perfect in the warmer months for an after work session). Besides a rack of draws and a 60m rope, you will want to bring a helmet and a sling of sorts to anchor yourself while belaying. Make sure you look for the amazing “best seat in the house” rock at the base which offers a fine (and comfortable) seat overlooking the lake (and a good place to gear up).

Summary: This is a new Sully's crag named Sully's Bear Asian Buffet Description: This is a new crag to the left of Sully's Hangout. There are 10 new climbs there, 6 of which are 5.9 or below. The climbing tends to be steeper with good holds. The left-most 5 climbs dry fairly quickly. Access issues inherited from Sully's Hangout: ACCESS ALERT! Authorities representing the LSCR have decided not to permit rock climbing in the area. Nor will they be responsible for, or manage, the Sully’s Hangout climbing area which lies within its borders. However, at this time LSCR personnel will not specifically prevent persons from climbing within the LSCR. Any person who chooses to rock climb within the LSCR does so absolutely at their own risk. Keeping the Sully’s Hangout climbing area open to climbers will require that climbers obey LSCR rules at all times while present in the LSCR and that they respect without question the wishes of LSCR personnel and/or any signs posted regarding climbing in the LSCR or at the climbing area. If approached by park rangers, be friendly and polite. Stay on the trail and within the platform areas at the base of the crag. Always use “leave-no-trace” wilderness ethics. Leash your dog (or better yet leave it at home), pack out your trash, and keep the climbing area clean and tidy. This is all very important—we need to keep our impact to a minimum. Also, the area is still being developed. If there is a red tape on the first bolt, the route is a project and is off limits. Please don’t interfere with fixed ropes and gear. IMPORTANT! Note that the main gates at both major access points are CLOSED and LOCKED in the evening at clearly posted times. You MUST be out before the gates are locked or you will be shut in. Any attempt to tamper with or defeat the gates will result in a POLICE CALL. Either get out of the gated area before closing, or use an alternate, non-gated access point. Do not, for any reason whatsoever, attempt to circumvent the gate closure—you could get the crag permanently closed to climbing!

Rodellar, tucked into the Sierra de Guara in Aragón, is one of Europe’s premier limestone sport climbing destinations. Famous for its sweeping tufas, dramatic caves, and athletic endurance routes, the area draws climbers from around the world, especially in summer when the deep canyons provide shade and a vibrant international scene. Style • Steep, overhanging limestone with long stamina pitches • Powerful tufa climbing, knee-bars, and technical roof sequences • Grades typically from 6b to 9a+, with concentration in the 7c–8c range Best Season • Summer: Shade in the Mascún canyon keeps conditions climbable despite the heat • Spring/Autumn: Cooler temps and less crowded, though some walls seep Notable Sectors • Gran Bóveda – Iconic tufa cathedral with pumpy endurance lines • Las Ventanas – Striking arch formations, photogenic and steep • La Surgencia – Diverse routes, including mid-grade classics Practical Info • Access: 2–3 hrs drive from Zaragoza. Approach trails lead directly from the village into the Mascún gorge • Village: Small but lively in summer; climber-friendly bars, camping, and hostels • Rest Days: Canyoning, hiking, or swimming in the turquoise Mascún river Character Rodellar is not just a climbing spot but a summer community hub—social, scenic, and physically demanding. Expect big moves, big pump, and a lot of kneebar rests.

These columnar basalt columns and crack climbs are perched above the Aberdeen Plateau (50.08.38.27N - 119.01.37.46W) about 20km south-east of Vernon, British Columbia. They face west at an elevation of 1350m. It is a short, 5 minute hike from 18km on the Aberdeen - Goat FSR to the crag. Developed columnar basalt climbing is somewhat unique in Central BC (and Canada) and provides good local training for harder crack climbing destinations. Aberdeen is ideal on hot summer mornings or spring and fall afternoons. There are now 130+ steep columnar basalt crack climbs ranging in height from 10m to 22m with grades from 5.3 to 5.11c. Most clmbs are in the 5.9 to 5.10 range. The rock is solid and provides quality cam and nut placements. There are no bolted climbs and most routes have been climbed onsite ground-up. Popular climbs are clean, less travelled routes may still have some loose rock and lichen. There are numerous bolted stations. The Aberdeen Guidebook is located under the Files section on the Aberdeen Columns group on Facebook for more information.

Snow Canyon State Park is in the area of the city of Saint George, perhaps an hour from the heart of Zion National Park. This large state park boasts a little of everything, from short sport clip-ups to mixed multi-pitch routes or even long, infrequently traveled adventure climbs. I have only sampled the area, but am writing it up here to get the ball rolling. The crags are sandstone, some reminiscent of the good stuff at Red Rock, NV, some resembling the softer formations of Zion National Park, and some fit for climbing by only the truest of desert rats. No matter if you are chasing sun or shade, or wanting crimpers, slopers, pockets, or an occasional crack there are climbs of various flavors facing in any given direction at any given time of day, depending on which crag you are at. The Island In The Sky area sports the Aftershock Wall, Circus Wall, The Doghouse, and other walls with good sport and mixed climbs. The West Canyon area has adventure routes and much adventure potential for those looking for touble and in possession of an emergency bolt kit. The nearby town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park ($14 in addition to $5 daily entry fee) or free camping just outside town on BLM land. The following guidebooks contain more details on the area and the park: Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition; Rock Climbing Utah; and an article in Climbing magazine #225 (article by Tim Kemple).

Vancouver Island is the 43rd largest island in the world at approximately 500km long, 150km wide with an area of 31,285 sq km. It lies off the west coast of British Columbia, Canada from where it is reached by an extensive ferry system from mainland ports. The island is shaped a bit like a squat triangle with the southern half running north to south and the northern half jutting more to the west. The majority of the towns and cities are dotted along the east side of the island at the southern half. The northern half of Vancouver Island and the mountainous interior is largely rugged wilderness crisscrossed by extensive industrial logging roads. A few paved highways cross the island to smaller west coast communities such as Port Renfrew, Tofino, Gold River and Port Alice. For the climber, Vancouver Island is a great destination. There are a number of well developed cragging and bouldering areas and vast resources of high alpine climbing. A good overview of the sport climbing areas can be found at: www.wildisle.ca/islandclimbing/vancouver-island-climbing-areas.html The rock is mostly volcanic basalt and ~75% of the climbing is on this rock type. It is generally solid with good friction but lacks good, continuous crack systems so most of the crag routes on the Island basalt are bolt protected or mixed bolt & trad. There are also areas with limestone - Horne Lake, granite - Constitution Hill, sandstone - Duncan boulders and conglomerate - Saltspring Island. Vancouver Island has exceptional alpine climbing with a very active core of local alpinists adding new routes steadily. Look for a comprehensive guidebook to the Vancouver Island mountains: Island Alpine Select from Wild Isle Publications: http://www.wildisle.ca