Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

Flinders cave is a modern discovery indeed. The cave hosts a great deal of obscenely steep, hard routes. Nicknamed “27 Heaven”- the climbing is upside down ceiling thuggery- which translates to be very physical and relentless. 'The Secret Cave' or ‘Flinders Cave’ is sixty metres high, but from twenty to fifty metres overhanging with the main wall being about twenty metres height at 60°- 80°. As Cameron Fairburn writes- “We had found the steepest terrain in QLD, or I should say rediscovered. We found a line of old 8mm hardware down the right wall of the cave that belonged to Frey Yule. We think he checked out the cave about five years previously but then moved interstate. The cave is SSW facing, so no sun all year round and only a 40min drive from 'Brisbane'. Unfortunately, there is also the 2.5km, 40min uphill walk in as well. The rock is solid volcanic trachyte with formations uncommon in Queensland; it's a mixture of fused blocks, huecos, crystallised slopers and hard crimps - the holds can be quite sharp. Some of the easier routes like 'The Nightmare of Milky Joe' (23) and 'Never Ask the Moon' (22) are super-fun cut-loose jug fests. Early in the piece, Glen established 'Wet Jigsaw Puzzle' (25) a short pump fest that climbs out of the steepest part of the wall. To add to this he climbed 'King of the Mods' (27), adding to a huge range of 27’s to come. Then the numbers rolled, I freed my project after my food was spiked 'Like a Man on Pepperoni' (27), possibly the steepest climb in 'Queensland'. That was until Glen equipped his, an 80° blank arête project, 'A Space Odyssey' 25m 30 or 5.13c”. 'The Secret Cave' consists of two developed areas: the steep main wall and a right hand wall which, although not as steep as the main wall, offers some challenging climbing. 'Terminus of Desire' (25) climbs from under the large overhang. This route will be used to access the steeper upper wall which has the potential for a couple of super hard routes. With all this new development Ross returned to develop what he hoped would be a nice easy sub-20 warm up. He ended up establishing 'Finger Tips and Mountain Tops' (23), an intricate crimp-fest climbing above the lip of this right-hand buttress. Ross then established 'Song and Dance Man' (27) a steep juggy start into a hard crimper sequence. Glen the power monkey campused his way to glory on Backstroke of the West (27) while another buddy of ours Antoine Moussette battled scorpion-eating spiders on one of the best 5.12c’s or 26’s in Qld “The French Connection' . There is still so much more to do. Hard unclimbed projects, the undeveloped upper wall and the central cave section as well as some creative batman starts. 'The Secret Cave' has proved to be a valuable asset to 'Queensland' climbing, not only in the unique steep terrain, but also in the addition of ever increasing harder sport climbs in 'Queensland'. When to go: All day, any day. Providing you can handle the heat on the walk-in.

Located in the talus field past the Dances with Wolves cave. From Wild Folowrers: Hike up towards Dances with Wolves and take a LH fork in the trail. Hope across some boulders to get to the cave. From the Sundance and Dances with Wolves cave: Approach by going through (or around) the SD/DWW cave and walk 10m towards a large boulder with a cairn. The Kletterhaus cave is in front of the boulder.

fun little bouldering cave that easily accessible, especially if you are staying in a luxury hotel. There could be some harder problem that start deep in the cave.

The Pictograph area, named for the Pictograph boulder that features an ochre drawing of a triangle-headed man/spirit, has the greatest concentration of quality problems in the area. A bit further along the utility access road is the impressive Pictograph Boulder. It’s overhanging downhill face features a pictograph of a triangle-headed man or spirit. The classic Inner Vision (V5) climbs the arete to the left of the pictograph. Brad’s Project Boulder is an obvious boulder jutting out of the talus immediately uphill of Scot’s Cave. The next four problems are scattered between the main areas. The unique problem Aqua (V4) ascends a water- sculpted rail on a small but prominent boulder located immediately above the utility access road, just east of the Pictograph area. Atlantis (V0+) traverses the water- worn lip of a small boulder just past (west of) the Pictograph Boulder, while problems 33 and 34 are on small boulders in the forest immediately uphill of Atlantis.

Echo Cave is a great place to avoid the crowds of Atlantis. The climbing ranges from steep and juggy to vertical pocket pulling. The Cave is surprisingly deep and cool.

Just 2 Climbs in here, both starting from inside the cave, and working out and up in different directions. The V6 is juggy to start, difficult to exit the cave, then slabby to the top. The V10 is powerful big moves to the lip, then slanted jugs up an arete. Both are 20+ moves.

Sandstone Cave called Forno de Orca (Orc Oven) near Nazaré's lighthouse. When you go down the stairs to the North of the lighthouse you will see a sandstone cave called Forno de Orca (translation: Orc Oven). There are problems on the inside and outside walls of the cave.

The large hill formation that dominates the skyline at the northern end of Skaha Bluffs has exposed rock on three of its four sides, but unfortunately lacks much in the way of quality climbing. Currently, the best reason to visit this area are to try the steep sport route 'Antaeus' (5.12d), check out the decent 5.11s on Lone Pine Wall or tunnel through the hill's slot-like caves, a rite-of-passage for all Skaha climbers despite being a non-climbing activity. Jericho Wall, the location of 'Antaeus,' is currently seeing new development, which may make this sector more of a destination in the near future. Conditions: The three aspects of Cave Hill have very different conditions: West-facing Jericho Wall gets afternoon sun, south facing Cave Hill Slab bakes for most of the day and east-facing Lone Pine Wall gest morning sun. None of these sectors has a forest at the base so shade is minimal.

A clean vertical cliff with a short, deep cave in the centre. Excellent, technical face climbing from 5.9 to 5.13.

An incredible, huge cave with a stunning roof and face above.

13. Huge Cave: The huge super steep cave has many problems and many possibilities though the rock is brittle there is quality climbing to be found.

Small boulder with easy approach and fun climbs in the right mini cave start. The left side cave could perhaps also have easy climbing but nothing known by name publically. Lots of potential for more climbing nearby, with a small cave uphill to the left, and some possible boulders and highball cliffs as well directly uphill. Go scope them out!

Thighmaster area has a popular namesake boulder problem named Thighmaster V4 but the area also has other test pieces including Black Mark V4.

Lower Smoking Boulder is the boulder just east of The Drifter Boulder (aka: Smoking Boulder). Cosmonaut and Croft Problem are found here. Descend NW.

The Sunny Gold Coasts, Premier Sport Climbing crag. A collection of different sectors to choose from with varied climbing. From pockets to slabs to steep pumpy walls- perched high up off the deck, whatever you're into, Pages has it. Entry Wall: The cliff face on the walk in, ending just before the start of all The Gold Coast sector. This covers ~150m of cliff. The Sun Bowl is visible above this area. The Sun Bowl is the crown jewl of pages. a large orange bowl of excellent water worn volcanic rock about 20m off the deck. Climbs are powerful pumpers all with hard boulder problem cruxes. This is the hardest wall of the crag and a true test of power, capped with wicked exposure over the valley below. There are two belays that routes climb from. These two belays are connected via a fixed rope. To do the routes on the left, ramble up the vegetated Valencia or climb Are We Dancer. To access the right belay, you can climb Tinka Extension, or carefully Traverse across from the left belay station via the fixed rope. The Gold Coast: Sector to the right of the Entry Wall. The most popular sector at Pages Pinnacle. And for good reason! This wall provides every grade with a slab intro section into steep headwalls on excellent quality volcanic stone. The wall tends to be over-bolted so please study topos carefully.... Summit Wall: The big obvious grey and orange overhang at the top, high above Ice Cream Wall. Should produce some nice routes in the 20s in a great position. Lots of potential up here for many more routes. Ice Cream Wall is ~100m to the right of the Gold Coast Wall on the obvious, black and white streaked, gently overhung wall 20m off the deck that comes into view after passing the slabs. Routes tend to be sustained and with bouldery cruxes. Good foot work tends to be the most important factor here! Yorkshire Wall: Walk a further 5 minutes past the previous sectors until you spot an obvious square-cut, left facing pillar. This vertical wall provides excellent on your feet climbing. The Western Wall: The wall facing west that you first walk in (from the lower access location). Shaded in the mornings.

After two afternoons of walking around looking for climbable rock among the choss pile that is Pine Hill I finally discovered a single climbable boulder problem. Even then it took considerable amount of cleaning and there still remains one jug hold that is liable to blow. Do not try climbing anything else, it will fall apart and has the potential to cause serious harm to you the rock here is absolute choss

This awesome smaller, steeper, venue is found at the eastern terminus of the Ostraland cliff line 30m right (west) of The Far Right sector of the Painted Wall. The cliff had only one completed route until the fall of 2022 and housed another of Larry Ostrander’s recently rediscovered old shunt/top rope projects. The first lead climb at this sector was called Welcome to the Dark Side. It was the last route established during the busy development season of 2020 on the shady side of the Moose Mountain Crags and was included in the recent Bow Valley Sport guide out in 2021. Late in the fall of 2022 Ross Suchy added two new 30 lines. One called Let There Be Light, a redevelopment of a lost Larry Ostrander shunt problem. Inspired by this new interest in the cliff. Andy Genereux with an intense two week effort added another seven new lines left of his original climb Welcome to the Dark Side in the late spring of 2023. This cliff features, steepish climbing overall, with most routes having defined crux sections of shorter duration. Simply a very fun place to climb..! Another bonus is all the routes generally stay dry during the rain giving it another great feature besides the all day shade this wall provides.

Foothills bouldering area hosting the mega-classic problem "The Hulk."

From: https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/canada/ontario/south-western-ontario/area/5387488632 Slightly overhung outcrop of surprisingly solid rock and interesting holds, with safe and flat landings. Almost all the problems are sit starts and eliminates (only use the hand holds in the pictures uploaded to each problem) and the foot rail is out of bounds unless stated otherwise. Climbs are labelled left to right facing the wall. Dry in the winter. Seeps during snow melt and wet after rain. Bug spray mandatory during the summer (marsh nearby).

Qld’s hardest crag- coolum cave hosts the majority of hard climbs in the state. The climbing is powerful, pumpy, full body and core intensive. The rock is absolutely stunning bullet hard Volcanic rock with many horns and Stalactites throughout the cave. Bring your kneebar pads and best steep shoes for heel hooks. There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic! Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

A cave, or Chamber if you will, created by a large boulder tilted up against a slightly smaller boulder with the east side of the cave sitting at about 30 degrees overhanging. A handful of lines grace this highly featured face. A rare find in this general area of the Fraser Valley.

A cave somewhere near Newcastle. Pretty fun.

The wall is in the middle grotto of Mt. Grotto, the same canyon as The Playground. Most of the climbs are less than 30m and a 60m rope is sufficient. The wall gets direct sun from mid-morning right till sunset for most of the year. This makes Apocalypse an excellent shoulder season option as it is one of the warmest crags in the valley! Most of the climbing is 5.11 to 5.14-. As with any brand-new routes/crags, helmets are strongly recommended...especially considering the rock is suspect in areas. On June 18, 2022 a massive landslide from above took place and cleared the slope just in front of the cave. Luckily nobody was hurt and none of the routes were damaged (that's correct, even The Pillar has been verified to be completely intact - see photo on its page). You may still wish to use caution in the area, however.

Set back from the road slightly. A steep cave hidden by trees flanked by tall vertical walls.

This area features some of the best rock on the South Island. While the tides are a bit of a nuisance to negotiate, when you do it is well worth it. Located just a few kilometers before Jordan River this cave is home to some high quality hard lines. [Area Guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk)

Chossy but fun little cave right off Rt 160.

Big cave with lotsa cool routes. Permadraws. Stays dry.

Pranang Beach is a short, overhanging wall with several large stalactites. It is right on the beach, and right next to a sacred cave. Climbing starts on the black section as you step onto the beach. Climbing is prohibited in the Princess Cave.