Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff – at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long. Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) – the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the “Great Gully”). To the left of the “Great Gully” is a smaller wall called “Mid-Wall”. The “Mid Wall” is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the “North Gully”. The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well. There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950’s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook “Central BC Rock” by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere. The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand. Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 “Icy BC”. New Route Development Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval. Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays. Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger. Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.

Beautiful climbing on solid quartzite walls nestled in a narrow box canyon with gorgeous waterfalls and spectacular views of the valley below. Silvertip is perhaps best known for its classic climbs in the 12- range, however there are some great moderates here as well. Only a handful of 5.13 climbs can be found in Revelstoke and two of them reside at Silvertip Canyon: Omnivore 13a and Dancing Bear 13c.

Good sport climbing and superb bouldering

This is a delightful shaded little box canyon that lies 30m beyond where the trail heads right up to the rising wall for Morning Side Crag from the creek drainage. The small venue is named after a very “BIG” spider and it’s web that were hanging out back in 2016 just left of what Andy Genereux thought would to be the first climb established at this newer venue. Turned out the route might actually one of the oldest climbs at the Moose Mountain Crags? During the early fall of 2016 the first four routes were established by Andy. Initially out of the gate, was the obvious water polished groove, done on lead with a power drill via rope soloing techniques. The line climbs the right side of the obvious polished water chute. It’s called Itsy Bitsy Spider. According to Allan Derbyshire this climb was actually first climbed on marginal trad gear (graded 5.8, “old school” with a possible ground fall potential) back in the late seventies. There was a lone badly hand-drilled self drive bolt with a homemade hanger at the belay (still in place). Andy thought this ugly badly drilled bolt was a residual anchor leftover from passing ice climbers. Allan also mentioned that the wide moss covered chimney/crack on the left side of the bay was also climbed on gear to reach a two piton anchor at roughly 30m, located below a small roof. Details on this line are few but this wide crack line for now is called Trad Special and is included for a more complete picture of the available climbing at this venue. If this wide gapping dirty crack/chimney appeals then bring a well stocked trad-rack. The remaining climbs established at this venue all went in top down requiring extensive cleaning. The routes were then rope soloed by Genereux while building these lines over two seasons at Spider Brook. All the routes at Spider Brook are located in a shady mostly north facing recessed pocket for much of the year this shady sector sees virtually no direct sunlight. This makes for a good venue to avoid the heat of mid-summer. It houses some nice moderate climbing and is a great place to hang out if one is waiting for the nearby east facing Morning Side Crag to come into shade on blistering hot summer mornings. This is usually around 1:30 pm.

There are lots of routes and many variations. You can find an easy way to the top by going to the end of the beach and following the path near the concrete pill-box. Caution - there is loose rock to the far end of this wall.

Located near the heart of Oneonta, Palisades is a state park with a nice little cliffline running just below its parking lot. There's a good range of climbing difficulty, ranging from easy 5.4 up to roofy 5.12. Because everything can be easily toproped, it's a perfect place for a beginner's first outdoor climbing experience. And if you're just getting started on trad, Palisades is an excellent training ground; routes like Buckets (5.5) offer easy leading and plentiful protection. Be aware, though, that the grades tend to be sandbagged; Elephant Crack (5.6) and Box Lunch (5.7) are not for the novice leader. There's no sport climbing at Palisades. Two-bolt anchors are at the top of most routes to set up a top-rope. All climbers must register at the park office and buy a $5 climbing permit (this is good for two weeks). From the parking lot, head for the cliff top near a picnic pavillion and scramble down a fourth-class gully/chimney to the base of the cliff. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas is a good resource for routes at Palisades. NOTE: All "subareas" are part of the same cliff line.

The Flatirons are synonymous with Boulder and the history of rock climbing in North America. It would be hard to find another location in the country where such an extensive variety, from scrambling to hard "Head Point" routes exist so close to a major metro area. They form the backdrop to Boulder and are the centerpiece of Boulder's Open Space system. There are three main areas: Flatirons North: This area includes classic rocks such as the First, Second, and Third Flatirons, along with the Amphitheatre in Gregory Canyon. Climbs here range from short newer-age sport climbs to long trad routes, including some of the longer trad routes in the area, the whole face of the 3rd Flatiron, which is about 1300 feet and the Direct East Face of the 1st which is about 1400 feet. Hard conglomerate Fountain Formation sandstone is the medium for your rock craft. Flatirons Central: There are many rocks to explore in this area. The "Central" zone spans Bear Canyon to the Ironing Boards (just South of the 3rd Flatiron). Slabmongers can have many field days exploring the numerous smaller Flatirons, and there's a good amount of trad and even sport among these rocks. Have fun in this scenic setting. Flatirons South: This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, East Ridge, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and The Goose offer slabs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest climb in the area is here. There is plenty to explore here. (Note: Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb. 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr. 1 to Aug. 31. Historically, some of these have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Sphinx, Medusa, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, Bear Creek Spire, Harmon Cave (bats), East Face of The Hand (bats), East Face of The Finger Flatiron (bats), East Face of Der Zerkle (bats), Dreadnaught, Achean Pronoucement, Skunk Canyon Ridge 2 & west, Sacred Cliffs, East & West Ironing Boards, The Third Flatiron, Queen Anne's Head, occasionally Gregory Amphitheatre, and possibly others.) (Source: Mountain Project)

Snow Canyon State Park is in the area of the city of Saint George, perhaps an hour from the heart of Zion National Park. This large state park boasts a little of everything, from short sport clip-ups to mixed multi-pitch routes or even long, infrequently traveled adventure climbs. I have only sampled the area, but am writing it up here to get the ball rolling. The crags are sandstone, some reminiscent of the good stuff at Red Rock, NV, some resembling the softer formations of Zion National Park, and some fit for climbing by only the truest of desert rats. No matter if you are chasing sun or shade, or wanting crimpers, slopers, pockets, or an occasional crack there are climbs of various flavors facing in any given direction at any given time of day, depending on which crag you are at. The Island In The Sky area sports the Aftershock Wall, Circus Wall, The Doghouse, and other walls with good sport and mixed climbs. The West Canyon area has adventure routes and much adventure potential for those looking for touble and in possession of an emergency bolt kit. The nearby town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park ($14 in addition to $5 daily entry fee) or free camping just outside town on BLM land. The following guidebooks contain more details on the area and the park: Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition; Rock Climbing Utah; and an article in Climbing magazine #225 (article by Tim Kemple).

Cougar Canyon Bouldering: The main concentration of the bouldering here is in the Moss Hollow/Down Under area which is located hidden amongst the trees in the middle of the canyon. The Alice Boulder is another recent discovery that is a few minute’s walk from the main area that hosts many other great problems. Since last fall lots of new problems and development has been going on, it seems like the potential is endless for those with a keen eye. There are a few problems scattered about the area that are not covered in this guide solely because they are spread way out and the information is limited . The rock here is Monashee Gneiss, so it tends to be really featured and grippy, every once and a while you will encounter some loose stuff (especially if on the bigger rope routes) but most of the boulder problems in this guide are on the good solid stuff. Bouldering is a great social way of climbing, and can be great training for big routes. Get out and give it a shot, the landing are mainly good here, and the atmosphere can be very refreshing on a hot summer day!! Be safe, use good spotting techniques and pads, and try to leave a lasting impression.

Beta Wall has one of the shortest approaches in the canyon and a roomy belay stance/picnic area. As such, it is one of the most popular crags in the canyon but remember that this is the North Okanagan. A busy day would mean sharing the cliff with 2-3 other parties. Climbs are generally long and of excellent quality, especially in the 5.10+ to 5.11 range. Beta Flow, Steepers Creepers, Mixed Company and Hummingbird are some of the best, but all are worth climbing.

Pot of Gold is the first wall you encounter on your approach into Unicorn Canyon. The wall, easily identifiable due to its yellow and orange hues, faces southeast and gets morning to early afternoon sun. To get there, follow the Unicorn Canyon trail until you see the unambiguously labeled sign, which is labeled "Pot of Gold.” Climbing here is characterized by positive holds on vert rock and a mandatory rotten voyage to the second bolt.

This crag is the first deep canyon on the left as you walk into EPC. if you head up to the south facing walls on the left side of the canyon you will get to Avenida de la Revolucion and Nomad walls. They are home to the more difficult climbs in Los Lobos and they receive afternoon sun. The main wall is Lobos wall - North facing on the right side of the canyon. Here you will find some great routes including the classic multi-pitch Will the Wolf Survive.

A gold and blue streaked wall at the very back of Grotto Canyon. Approximately 50min approach with a few shorter, highly textured routes unlike anything in the rest of Grotto Canyon. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tN5znTiNjbOg61cdyV6boicnT0zkVpvQ/view?usp=drivesdk

Possibly the best limestone area in southern New Mexico. LCC is a large, very remote area northwest of Carlsbad, NM. Takes about 1 hour 45 min to drive in from Carlsbad. The climbing is found along a specific 'S' shaped curve within a much bigger canyon. Hike down is about 700 ft elevation drop from the rim, and takes 15-30 min depending on which area you go to first. Best walls are Tornado Alley, Solstice Cave, Violence Wall and Mad Cow.

This is primarily a bouldering area that lies in the Canyon to the East of Topanga Canyon Blvd (27). I understand there are some top rope options in the area too. This area is described very well in Craig Fry's Southern California Bouldering Guide (2nd edition).

[Download the PDF guide](http://sendage.com/community/resources/guidebooks/unicorn-canyon-ab-canada/)

A narrow, picturesque canyon with some awesome climbing! Access is steep and dangerous so come prepared and reference the guidebook before descending.

Kings Canyon National Park

Predominately vertical walls with varied routes ranging from 5 to 43 meters and 5.7 to 5.11. You can find sun / shade on either side of the canyon depending on the time of day

Coldstream Canyon contains quality boulders perched on two exposed granite slabs, one on top of the other, separated by a cliff.

Creekside is the first cliff that you will see as you walk into cougar canyon, and is ideally situated as it is home to some of the area's better beginner climbs. Routes are generally short but fun, and there is a good mix of gear and sport climbs. Also, this is one of the only grags in Cougar where all of the climbs are accessible from the top, making it ideal for top-roping and teaching. Trust the Jugs and JBird are standout routes at this crag.

A crag about 700m before cougar canyon parking. 2 minute hike in to a spot with about 20 routes. Half sport, half gear. A short but pleasant place on a hot summer day.

This is a large north-west facing cliff that hosts some the the canyon's longest climbs. Climbs are generally good quality and vertical, to slightly off vertical. This cliff is a great choice if you like technical face climbing, but there are some classic steep and juggy routes towards the right. Paving Paradise, Planet of the Apes and Gear for Fear are among the standouts.