Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

Summary: This is a new Sully's crag named Sully's Bear Asian Buffet Description: This is a new crag to the left of Sully's Hangout. There are 10 new climbs there, 6 of which are 5.9 or below. The climbing tends to be steeper with good holds. The left-most 5 climbs dry fairly quickly. Access issues inherited from Sully's Hangout: ACCESS ALERT! Authorities representing the LSCR have decided not to permit rock climbing in the area. Nor will they be responsible for, or manage, the Sully’s Hangout climbing area which lies within its borders. However, at this time LSCR personnel will not specifically prevent persons from climbing within the LSCR. Any person who chooses to rock climb within the LSCR does so absolutely at their own risk. Keeping the Sully’s Hangout climbing area open to climbers will require that climbers obey LSCR rules at all times while present in the LSCR and that they respect without question the wishes of LSCR personnel and/or any signs posted regarding climbing in the LSCR or at the climbing area. If approached by park rangers, be friendly and polite. Stay on the trail and within the platform areas at the base of the crag. Always use “leave-no-trace” wilderness ethics. Leash your dog (or better yet leave it at home), pack out your trash, and keep the climbing area clean and tidy. This is all very important—we need to keep our impact to a minimum. Also, the area is still being developed. If there is a red tape on the first bolt, the route is a project and is off limits. Please don’t interfere with fixed ropes and gear. IMPORTANT! Note that the main gates at both major access points are CLOSED and LOCKED in the evening at clearly posted times. You MUST be out before the gates are locked or you will be shut in. Any attempt to tamper with or defeat the gates will result in a POLICE CALL. Either get out of the gated area before closing, or use an alternate, non-gated access point. Do not, for any reason whatsoever, attempt to circumvent the gate closure—you could get the crag permanently closed to climbing!

This three-sided crag sits on the ridgecrest that seperates the Screeching Wall conyon from Muscle Beach. The position is pleasant and the out-of-the-way nature helps thin crowds, but there's not a very high concentration of pitches here in any specific genre. A couple of moderate cracks are worthy, but the best reason to trudge up to this spot is the small batch of technical 5.0-5.11 sport climbs on the south and east faces. If you send them all, have a go at the crag's crimpy testpiece, 'Peaches' (5.12a). Conditions: This crag has three different aspects - east, south and west - so you can find sun or shade at any time of the day. There's not much in the way of belay shade at any of the three walls.

Link to full topo [here](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1yeP1D-WwYS3G8CGPKlwiZQ-eQnczPWTN) 2025 update - Great Wall with obviously a ton of work dedicated to the approach. I think a couple routes need some TLC w the odd bolt repositioning, anchor upgrades, and cleaning / deshralpifying the razors and death crozzlies that can destroy the skin. I think any changes should be discussed w Miles and Co beforehand. Dont let any of that stop you from checking the place out - it is cool and unique - MN

Snow Canyon State Park is in the area of the city of Saint George, perhaps an hour from the heart of Zion National Park. This large state park boasts a little of everything, from short sport clip-ups to mixed multi-pitch routes or even long, infrequently traveled adventure climbs. I have only sampled the area, but am writing it up here to get the ball rolling. The crags are sandstone, some reminiscent of the good stuff at Red Rock, NV, some resembling the softer formations of Zion National Park, and some fit for climbing by only the truest of desert rats. No matter if you are chasing sun or shade, or wanting crimpers, slopers, pockets, or an occasional crack there are climbs of various flavors facing in any given direction at any given time of day, depending on which crag you are at. The Island In The Sky area sports the Aftershock Wall, Circus Wall, The Doghouse, and other walls with good sport and mixed climbs. The West Canyon area has adventure routes and much adventure potential for those looking for touble and in possession of an emergency bolt kit. The nearby town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park ($14 in addition to $5 daily entry fee) or free camping just outside town on BLM land. The following guidebooks contain more details on the area and the park: Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition; Rock Climbing Utah; and an article in Climbing magazine #225 (article by Tim Kemple).

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_victor_rrock.html How to get there Coming from Revelstoke: Drive along the Trans Canada highway (Hwy1) towards west (Vancouver). Once you crossed the Columbia River Bridge and reached the turnoff for Hwy 23 S (traffic light), start counting the kilometers as you keep driving west along Hwy 1. At km 13.8 you come to a paved truck pullout, directly in between the highway and Victor Lake (second lake west of Revelstoke). This is a good place to park your car. Please do not park at the gravel pullout 280 meters east, dangerous for oncoming fast moving traffic. Coming from Vernon, Kamloops or Sicamous: Drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards east (Calgary). Once you are past the prominent red hotel at Three Valley Gap, keep driving towards east for another few kilometers. This will bring you across a bridge and further to the Victor Lake (third lake east of Sicamous). Park at the prominent paved truck pullout. Approach From the paved truck pullout in between the highway and Victor Lake walk for 280 meters along Hwy 1 towards east. This brings you to a gravel pullout (don’t park your car there). Cross the highway to its north side (caution fast driving cars and trucks). There walk along an overgrown road for approximately 80 meters towards east (historical wagon road from Sicamous to Revelstoke). From this point, walk up the steep trail to the base of the Victor Lake Wall. For the routes "Return of the Osprey", "Trans Canada" and "Pan America" branch off to the right shortly prior the actual wall (sign). For all other routes keep following the main trail aiming straight up and slightly climber left. 15 minutes from the highway. Descent for all Victor Lake Wall Routes From the top of the Victor Lake Wall walk down the marked trail towards west and eventually in south direction. This brings you within 30 to 35 minutes back to your car at the Victor Lake and the Trans Canada Highway. Just as on the Squamish Grand Wall or any route on Yamnuska, bring a super light pack and light approach shoes, climb one of the many grand routes and after the climb enjoy the quick walk down back to the highway. The Goat Ledge The Goat Ledge is the prominent large ledge separating the entire upper wall from the lower wall. The Victor Ledge allows climbers to bail from any route as you walk towards west, along this large ledge to the Ninth Symphony / The Mission. After you arrive at the fourth belay anchor of The Mission, rappel straight down the lower part of the Ninth Symphony and the Baldwin Start. (35m, 30m, 28m, 28m). In between Return of the Osprey and Restless Spirits is a fixed rope.

This section includes all areas North of the Mountain Parkway which exist in the Daniel Boone National Forest and Clifty Wilderness areas. Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Right at the base of the Second Flatiron a collection of boulders exist that offer some killer problems. Although it's the same kind of rock as Flagstaff, it doesn't seem to hurt as much. Some classic hard problems like The Turning Point (V8) are found here along with plenty of others that are fun and not near as hard. The best time to go is when there is no snow on the ground because you find tons of chalked things that may not be in any book, but are really good problems. This is a great after work or school destination because it is so close and offers things to goof around on, or serious projects that will take you several weeks or months to complete, unless your name is Sharma. (Source: Mountain Project)

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

Qld’s hardest crag- coolum cave hosts the majority of hard climbs in the state. The climbing is powerful, pumpy, full body and core intensive. The rock is absolutely stunning bullet hard Volcanic rock with many horns and Stalactites throughout the cave. Bring your kneebar pads and best steep shoes for heel hooks. There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic! Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

Fantastic granitic climbing. Prepare to have no cell service at any of the climbing areas. Download the guide beforehand! [NEW GUIDE DRAFT - CLICK HERE](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IwJSaiED_cSOm4FVZ10ee6XgZ_9SOybB/view?usp=sharing)

Rock Type: Sandstone Average Height: 7 metres Height Range: 6-10 metres IMPORTANT NOTE: All climbs are graded using English Technical Grading. These routes are not to be Trad climbed, but to be Top-Roped, as the rock is too soft to maintain form from multiple gear placements. When top roping make sure the rope does not have contact with the rock, as the sandstone will rapidly degrade through friction from ropes. This can be avoided by extending a sling over the top out and attaching a Krab to the end of the sling with the rope. At no point should you abseil off the top of a route, and in any case, lowering off should be avoided unless necessary.

The second edition of the Duncan Boulders Guidebook has all the information you need and is available at BoulderHouse Victoria + Langford, The Hangout Duncan, Ravenwood or Romper Room Nanaimo, The WIP Campbell River or at any of the 3 Hive locations in Vancouver. Access for Sansum Narrows is sensitive. If you require information on locating these climbs do so quietly via private messaging. South Island Climbers is trying to figure out the climbing situation. Asking that people please be very respectful of the area and talk to a local before heading out there.

One of Skaha's most popular walls is a soaring sweep of orange-streaked gneiss that rises above a jumble of large boulders. The flanks of this crag host a decent collection of quality 5.10-5.11 sport climbs, but the real prize is the central wall, a sector lush with intricate and physical 5.12-5.13 lines that stretch up to 25 metres or more. Oddly, the lowest layer of this wall is crumbly kitty litter, but the routes work around it and it doesn't seem to diminish their quality. The base of Doctors' Wall is a popular place to lounge and, on most any weekend, you'll have to trade burns on your project with a variety of climbers. For those looking for friendly moderates, check out the nice collection of short sport climbs in the Fern Gully boulders below the amin wall. There's something here for everyone... Conditions: Doctors' Wall faces due east and gets blasted by the morning sun, which is great in the cold weather. The pitches between the boulders in Fern Gully stay much cooler and get limited sunshine, some not all. It's possible to climb a number of routes here in light rain since the crag overhangs and there are "rain" anchors below the upper slabs. Use the photo topo to see which pitches work best.

Tall lines are common. Situated in a green, old forest with lots of nature. All grades and plenty of potential. Never leave any rubbish, and respect the cabins next to the parking.

Mostly bolted routes on Mt. Maxwell for the time being from 5.7 to 5.11. The rock is a kind of conglomerate so watch out when you grab hold of something! Also, please note that Salt Spring Island is an eco-sensitive area so before bolting or cleaning of any kind, please contact the local climbing community

This boulder is better known for its close proximity to town rather then for having quality problems, but it adds a little hideout for those not wanting to climb at the always busy traverse wall by the ocean. Head up the path to the top of the hill above the rope climbing, there is two small boulders, the one on the right is barbwire boulder. As with everything on the Island there is a high chance that these problems were climbed a long time ago, but recently a local took the time to remove a whole bunch of rusted barbed wire surrounding the boulder, freeing up a couple short lines. We could not find any info on these boulders so we are going with these names for now, but are certainly open to change what we need to. Its climbing... just have fun.

Comox Lake is a wonderful area of climbing located in Cumberland, BC. Mostly Basalt; moderate temperatures as it is within the trees. If you are going to do any amount of climbing at Comox Lake, many climbers who recommend that you pick up a copy of John Waters' "Comox Valley Climbs" (Printed by First Choice Books, 2009, 2011) Much time has gone into writing it, and it is an invaluable guide to the climbing community at Comox Lake.

An impressive outcropping of natural gritstone, in an exposed hilltop setting. I think it is in fact the highest natural grit outcrop, and even has some multipitch routes! The crag faces West for the most part and gets afternoon sun. It can get very hot here on summer days, but a good breeze can keep it fresh. In winter months it gets any wind going, so can be bitterly cold! It tends to acquire a green coat over the winter, but dries out well as the weather warms up.

A small area with some big climbs. Try Land that Time Forgot for a classic line, or any of the problems on the Squaminator boulder for a challenge.

Located in the Calico Basin area, this popular and easily accessible crag has a good range of sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12. With climbing on all four sides, shade can be found at almost any time of day.

Probably shortest approach of any area on the North Shore, just step off the street into the shady woods. Good for a couple hours of convenient fun. The mostly moderate problems are located on three clifflets; see the North Shore guidebook for details. Landings are mostly flat.

Please update with the correct topo to give cred to the developers/finders of this cool boulder. Short approach with good holds. It seems to be only partially cleaned (especially the top-out) so bring a wire brush if you go. Be respectful of private land nearby if going. There are many lines that appear to not have been climbed nor cleaned as the top-outs were never scrubbed. If any are closed projects please update here.

Mt. Colonel Foster is Vancouver Island’s unrivalled alpine climbing mecca and home to the Island’s most challenging winter and summer alpine routes. The mountain is located in a dramatic cirque near the head of the Elk River, a major tributary of the Campbell River. ‘The Colonel’ has a dramatic 1,000m (3,300 ft) north east face which plummets, from a serrated summit ridge of six distinct peaks, in a series of well-defined buttresses and plumb-line couloirs. The routes up these features are of a scale comparable to any major alpine peak and it is fair to say Mt. Colonel Foster is home to some of Canada’s finest alpine climbs. First Ascent: Michael Walsh June 1968

Foreplay is one of the most distant crags from Skaha's southern parking lots, but if approached from the north it's a relatively quick hit. Before 2014 it saw very little interest, but a blitz of recent activity has resulted in a large collection of excellent routes. Foreplay's main wall is slightly overhanging and, at 20 metres tall, brings on a good pump. The routes become less steep near the south end and the slabby Terry's Face and Reilly Rock both have a good collection of technical moderates. If you visit, don't miss 'Back Hand of God,' one of Skaha's best 5.12a's. Condition: Foreplay and Reilly Rock both face due west, providing cool, shady conditions on warm mornings. Terry's Face tilts to the south and gets plenty of sun throughout the day. There are no trees to speak of in this zone, so don't expect any shaded areas for belaying or lounging.

A 35 meter wall with several quality trad and sport routes. Known as The Dawg Wall, the main climbs start at an intermediate ledge 5 meters up which can be reached via an exposed scramble at the left end or any one of four short bolted starts at the right end. The climbs at the right end can either be done as one long 35 meter pitch from the ground, or a short one to the ledge followed by a 30ish meter pitch to the top anchors.

For free topos, videos and pics, and any other info you'll need, visit www.revelstokebouldering.ca! Beautiful bouldering area about 20 km west of town. Classic highball lines in an amazing setting by a creek. Not a huge area, but lots of potential for further development, and what has been established are top of the line problems.

A very nice crag with about 35 quality route, well bolted, nice rock. Situated in Cat Ba, ask Mr. Zoom Climbing for any info. Routes from 4a to 7c.

Also known as Crater Rock, the BRS is a small quartzite erratic tucked away in a Calgary neighbourhood. Although there aren't really any striking lines, there are plenty of possibilities for eliminates. As you could probably guess, people have been climbing here for a relatively long time. See https://rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/Canada/Alberta/Calgary/Crater_Rock__Buffalo_Rubbing_Stone_/ for more information.

This area is a little slice of heaven for anyone that likes airy top outs and pant filling moves. The wall is located off of highway 313 and is visible from the road in early spring before the trees begin to bloom. This LONG, awe inspiring wall with it’s technical face climbing will be enough to humble any climber.