Tatonka – V9 ↓
Description:
This climb used to have a huge flake-jug in the middle of the roof that broke off sometime in 2010. The resulting climb is still superb and likely harder than the original V8 grade.
Show Beta
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Gordon Pham-Nguyen: Try a knee bar with your right leg. -
Dylan Smith: Sit start -
Samuel Martin: Kneebar the bread loaf -
Tom Tildrum: tall folks - Low left foot opened the start move -
colebarber: Heel hook for the first move felt much easier than the low right foot
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Amanda Berezowski: Got to use my knee bar pad! -
Jonathan Tsay: Some tricky toe hooks and heel hooks will help make the climb a lot more static -- really awesome movement!
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Simon Rose: Check out Israel's foot beta for the first few moves. Makes it go from desperate to reasonable.
Recent Sendage:
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Lovely tension and powerful moves on such beautiful rock -
Happy to send this in one session! Amazing movement, really had to fight at the end. -
My crux was not the normal crux.. Great line regardless!
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Felt like a one move wonder. Loved every second on this. -
2024-02-196 sessions (first session wasn't fresh, just checked it out). Fun movement. Cool that there are lots of beta options. Fell on the mantle on session 4 but managed to get redemption not too long after.
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2023-11-28Great last day of climbing in squamish for 2023. First "v9" -
2023-11-24 -
2023-11-20kinda sent already but didnt. did it static off the start today so ill take the tic. used a long boy toe hook to static the start. -
2023-10-21
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Way better than videos make it look. -
Really sick climb. Lowkey felt easier than golden boy...idk if it's just a style I'm good at or what but either way a really fun one. High quality moves
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In my top 10 favorite boulders I've climbed on anywhere. One of nature's finest creations in Squamish.
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2023-09-21
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Such a fun line. Stiff first move followed by super cool 3D climbing. First of the grade and took 2 sessions so likely on the low end but who cares, just go climb it!
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Really damn good. I loved the movement and 3D features. The first move was harder for me than on any other V8 I've touched. That said, the overall boulder felt higher percentage than other 9's I've touched. Not that any of it matters... just climb it! -
Buttery
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Such cool movement! First V9. Took about 5 or 6 sessions to get it. Almost all of that was working to stick the first move.
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really fun. tried this in 2018 but couldn't touch most of the moves. got an alpine start and was warming up by about 8:30am. ultimately did it in 2 hours just as the sun peaked over the chief (11:05am, for those who are making plans to try it). took longer to figure out the middle heel hook moves than i expected—open the hips! actual send felt pretty controlled all the way through
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First of the grade. First move is the best move. Struggled w/ the mantle.
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2023-06-27Very cool movement! 3 tries -
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2023-06-20 -
Quick send. Very high quality boulder problem with plenty of beta options.
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fun one :) -
2nd session
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Super cool moves. Soft end of the V9 range.
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Cool
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Headbar FTW -
2022-07-22 -
3rd attempt. Couple hours after the rain.
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Couple tries, feet super polished. -
First move took forever to get. Apparently doing toe hook start is easier - wasn’t for me. Once that went, fell on the last move. Sent next go. Repeated it twice in a row to get on video. 5 sends in a row with buddies -
10 Attempts
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First V9!! So sick! Day flashed it even! -
3rd session. Super fun problem !! -
Wish I kept track of how many times I had to try the first move. -
Every year I try it and I pull my oblique. I pulled my oblique this year as usual but at least I sent it 😂
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nice line! came together very quick
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Fun! -
🖤 -
Hard 8, soft 9? Who cares it's so good -
My first V9! -
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Hey boulder bro’s! Take your garbage when you leave!
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Crazy body tension on this one! 4 sessions. Strategic kneebar beta skips a bunch of foot moves. Didn't cut feet either! -
2021-09-24Sent in about 4 tries, first boulder of the day without much warmup. Really cool and steep moves!
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Might be the raddest experience of the trip. Meticulously studied Andy Liu's beta and prepped every hold. What a cool sequence and climb. Thanks Jake N. and Rebecca for being patient as I stared and mumbled at a rock for quite some time... -
First v9 and in one session-didn't stop the top out from kicking my butt when tired -
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Such a great line. Psyched to put it down! -
4th try, really cool body positioning -
2021-09-01Font 7b+. The grey area in V grades
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First of the grade! Many unique movements and overall an amazing boulder.
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Hard tensiony first move. Awesome movements with a sneaky kneebar. Send train with Midori, Dom, and Jen! Stoked about this one! Last climb last go last day of our Squamish trip. One of my favourite! 2 sessions -
Nice 3d climbing. Personal grade of V7 for this one. I used a kneepad, but I don't think this one merits v9, even without the pad, as I also did the move without the kneebar and didn't find it too hard. One session, ~10 tries all in.
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Such a nice flow! Mantle was a little weird, but loved every move otherwise. Would love to take 9 for this line, but doesn't feel harder than any other 8s I've done. Used a left kneepad. 3rd go. -
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no kneepad.. movement on this rig is 5 stars!
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Fun
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2021-05-20
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2021-05-09Pretty sweet line. Tried the first move 100 times and the first time I stuck it I sent
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2nd try. Felt very soft for the grade. But excellent moves! So much fun. Loved this one. Really funky grip positions -
Really fun
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2021-04-12Amazing line
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Blown away, first V9 did it in a single session. Thanks to the crew, what an epic day!! -
I had a 2 minute battle with the mantel at the end. Awesome 3D climbing. -
Suited me well. Love it. -
2021-03-13Moonboarding all winter helped
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Really good. Probably soft if you knee bar/are tall
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Surprised this gets downgraded so much. Felt fkin hard for my 5'7". Glad I checked this classic after all !!!
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Been wanting to do this one for a while. Great movement! Personally would say V8. Didn’t use a pad and i’m not tall.
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Softie but goodie
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Favourite boulder in Squamish so far
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Amaing climb and first introduction to Squamish!
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What a fun boulder. Should be a top 100. -
2020-10-04
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Day flash. Last tried back in 2014. -
Super fun, first of the grade for me. Added another cheeky toe hook at the establishing position for my beta.
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Really great moves on this one, could be the climb to get me back into bouldering after breaking my arm. Soft, but ill take it :) Really sick to see Sam crush the 10.
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2020-08-22 -
1 try last year. 3 tries this year. Sweet moves
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4 sessions -
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2020-07-18Very cool and fun movements. Sent it on the 4th try, very my style but feels like it’s on the softer side. Oh well, I’ll still take it as my first 9! -
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First 9! 2 sessions!!! So fun! -
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First 9 in a day. Did the classic "First time doing the first move now I refuse to fall off" -
So stoked to finally get this one! First legit V9. Put 2 sessions into this months ago but then the season ended abruptly. 2 more sessions in the new year did the trick! After doing a lot of core workouts for a few weeks the first bunch of moves felt way easier. Such a cool climb but happy I dont have to scramble up there again any time soon.
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2nd go. Fit my style yet felt soft. Great movement!
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Great fun! Felt pretty chill for V9.
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Had a couple tries yesterday but it started pissing rain. Came back today and sent after sending worm world cave earlier! 2 V9's in a day! -
Godly stone and incredibly dreamy movement on this overhanging cave boulder.
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2019-08-09 -
Great variety of really good moves the whole way. Very satisfying boulder -
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Saved this for two years! Psyched to pull it off. -
Really fun - burly and beta-intensive. Low end 9? -
Third go, Felt more like an 8 -
1 session
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7'ish attempts? Definitely didn't feel harder than V8. Really great problem either way. Was almost skewered by Chloe's knitting needle trying this thing... -
Both intricate and powerful. Different than anything I've ever climbed
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Nice steep climbing. A key left foot made all the difference.
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Piles of fun! Knee bar works great -
Botched the beta hard but fuck if
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One of my favourites in squamish
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dream line
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Such unique moves. Took a handful of sessions to dial down the moves. Thanks Connor for the mantel beta, and thank you everyone for hauling pads and for the support! Book says V9. Definitely taking it. Second Squamish 9!
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so dreamy -
2018-06-04
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2018-06-04
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This has been my nemesis for a while now. Had a lot of trouble with the starting moves. All the core training paying off once again. -
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Sent after the flake broke. Definitely solid for grade for a 5' 6" and -2 ape index
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Felt really easy once I had the beta down. Sweet climb -
Power endurance roof! -
This climb was so fun! Great movement!
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2017-08-14
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Such a great problem
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A totally unique roof line for Squamish with really fun movement. Squam has enough sandbags that I'm going to enjoy taking a soft one! -
2017-06-10 -
2017-06-10!!!!
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2017-06-09 -
After falling 4 times from the mantle, finally got this great problem with a very desperate catch around the arete...
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Lots of climbing while fully extended which is something I don't normally enjoy, so it was good practice. Took some time to figure out beta.
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Great problem. -
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😄 a big first move for me, but I'm happy I could finally do it...
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Fun! Did a couple of attempts at the end of a day last year and thought it was way hard. Went in one session today. Much beached whale action on the top out.
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2016-06-09Doesn't feel any harder than mid-range V8. Burly and surprisingly subtle.
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2 sessions
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2016-05-21
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2015-11-28
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Whether it is a hard V8 or and easy V9 this is still a great problem. I think I did the original (pre-break) in 2003. The new version is great. First day out after the birth of my son!
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Never tried before yesterday. Very cool climb! 4 goes after finding the correct beta
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First time outdoor bouldering outdoors in months and decided to check out tatonka-- ninja-linke moves in the roof and got the send after about 10 tries. So psyched!!
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Really good. Had to fight hard for this one. It beat me up! Thanks to jc for the betas!
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Great moves!
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Excellent problem! :)
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Good technical problem with nice finish!
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2014-10-09
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I think this may be my new favourite in squam. Went so smoothly when I finally did it but there is micro beta galore on this thing. I had so much fun figuring it all out!!!!
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Thanks for all the beta Jesse! Interesting moves
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2014-09-05Awesome climb! Big thanks to Jesse for coming out to support.
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Thanks Kaleb for the foot beta :). It made it possible!
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Really good, one session!
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What a gem of a climb. Slab top-out was wet when I got there... took some time to dry holds before continuing. One of the most exciting climbs I've had. -
2014-08-01Unique for Squamish... Really didn't find this that fun...
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For sure one of the best in squamish!
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This climb is loads of fun! -
Great problem but some 8s feel harder than this.
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2013-07-28
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undercling. nebody else?
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2013-06-18 -
V9Anonymous User2012-09-03
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2012-08-01
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Post break... this thing is quite a bit tougher than it used to be and I'd say V9 is a pretty fair grade as it stands without the big flake. Whatever the grade, it's a fantastic problem and definitely one of my favourites. So much better than the old line.
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I don't think that I get points for a graceful send, but a send nonetheless!
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Is this v8 still? Feels quite a bit tougher than the old one, but actually more fun I think. Less fun easy burly... a bit more technical now. Still helps to be tall.
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Post-break. Super super fun.
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Not so good for my arm but a cool problem!
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Knee bar, heel hook, toe hook, power, tricky mantle. Got to love bouldering. I think it would be top 100 if it had broken a year ago...top 101??
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Wow totally different now and really good. Got the Mat Lucas beta demoed by Bubbles.. perfect! Vid here: http://vimeo.com/25918754
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fantastic
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much better after break. super -
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funnest shit in the world!
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Really good!
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despachado en 10 minutos
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Trying it the wrong way certainly does not make it "soft" 4 the grade. Q;anyone know where the "lip" on the pinch went? -
did before flake broke -
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2008-08-29
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Amazing trip!
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Knee on the top-out---style points! Burly for me. Before the break.
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2007-08-23
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2007-08-01All in the hip twist -
2007-08-01
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Ridiculously Easy
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Funfun! -
wtf? 7B? "just another lip traverse"
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Log-book, No score
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Cool
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core!!
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one of my first V8's in squamish :)
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2005-04-01 -
2004-09-03
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2004-08-17Loved this problem!
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very cool
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cool
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excellent -
2003-07-01Looooose Flake
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after it broke! Makes it a lot better
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V9 prise cassé
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almost flashed it in my running shoes, gotta go back and try it now that it broke.
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did this one in the original form when the huge jub was there
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V8 ↑Anonymous User
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Awesome problem, struggled more on the first move than the rest. -
climbed it before hold broke
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Should be top 100
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Great Boulder really enjoyed it, definitely worth going to. It might be a low v9, but I think it's tricky enough that V9 is a good great for it. -
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one session, fun moves, chased bad beta for longer then i should have. -
ez pz -
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3
onsights14
flashes259
redpointsTotal Sends: 276
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