Yvonne Wong:Match right starting hand and shoot to right arete to avoid the super far first move.
nathanchow:First move can be tricky. I placed a low left toe as a press, and a high right toe and heel smear. I generated leftwards momentum with my left toe and right toe and heal to hit the far left hand. Keep driving the right heel into the smear to make the move as static as possible. A high left toe hook will make any later crux disappear!
Bertin Wong:Digging away the gravel reveals a nice chip for your left foot. Using a small pad also helps with the sit. A left heel hook can save some thrutchy moves as long as your hamstring doesn't break.
Sam Whalen:Skip the greased sloper and go to the lip!
Farbod Etemadi:Being 5'4 made first move far! But I found with a higher right foot on the slab just below and right of your right hand start allowed me to stabilize and generate momentum necessary to grab the first left hand!
With my beta it's a fully spanned big move to the slopping edge. Skips the bullshit with the frictionless left slopper. Huge props/happy birthday to LOUCAS for sending Porn hair just before this and for the tour of Squam-Classics!