The short pumpy version - Super fun climb! Steep -> technical -> steep = :) :) :) The long endurance version - the obvious line is *straight* up and is 15 bolts, (not 11), and not to the left. First time on this ran out of draws going straight up, then downclimbed/fell and went left at the top as per the BVS book, then had a minor meltdown on a freaky run out traverse. Eventually realized the much funner/less scary version was straight up. Don't get fooled by the BVS book like I did! Be prepared for 15 bolts not 11. Thanks My My for not letting me clean it the first time (even though I really wanted to), more absurdly patient belays, slogging up in marginal weather and hiking out in the rain and dark with a dim headlamp, so I could try again...and then back up again when you're dog tired while the moves were still fresh in my head. I def needed the beta dialed for this one, but wouldn't have persisted if it wasn't such a rad climb.
So fun! I love the cute plant at the top :) Would definitely do this again! Tried it twice last week. First go today hanging the draws, took awhile at the top, as I didn't want to blow it. My yell "nooooooo" when I thought I was going to peel off from the redpoint nervous shakes on the last moves will be fondly recalled. Thanks for the belay den den! To cap it off Mera pup lived her dream of dramatically catching, and releasing, a squirrel today. I hope the furry critter was okay. It was a chilly day though the superb company of JoBear, den den, and Mera pup and a pair of long jones warmed things up :p! An awesome day!