Magic Compass – 5.12d


FA: Mason Tessier, marcus norman - 2022-08-01

Description:   (under review)

After a long two days of work i was able to find a path up the wall. After a much needed rest I recruited Marcus to help me do a final cleaning and try the moves. We re-jigged the second pitch after Marcus eyed a better way through the choss band and came back the following day to free the route.

Approach: located approx 50m left of Living in Paradise under the large orange section of the wall. A small 4th class approach leads to the base of the route beside The Wolverine. Rope up to make it more comfortable

Pitch 1: (12a, 14bolts) A long pitch up perfect vertical rock. Adventurous and pumpy, this is the perfect warmup before getting to the crux pitch.
Pitch 2: (10d, 8bolts) a short traverse to get past the small choss band that cuts the entire wall.
Pitch 3: (12d, 9bolts) A steep powerful line up interesting rock with many small cruxes. Don’t get ahead of yourself.
Pitch 4: (12a, 7bolts) What feels like victory climbing quickly turns as you approach the top of the wall where the wall gets steeper and a bolder problem protects the chains.

Descent: After celebrating at the top of the wall walk of left across a short exposed traverse and up a scree field to hikers trail. Follow the trail left past some lush waterfalls and back down to the base of the wall.
Rappel: bring a tag line and with two 70m rappels you will be on the ground. Rap to the large ledge to a rap station on Living In Paradise.

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12d
    2022-08-01 (FA)
    Maybe the hardest Ive ever worked to bolt a new line. Hiked all the gear and bolted this line by myself in two days. Two weeks later Marcus came and helped me give it a good cleaning. The next day we headed up and surprised ourselves both doing the crux pitch on our first try. Couldn’t have worked out better!
  • 5.12d
    2022-08-01 (FA)
    Phenomenal line equipped by Magic Mas. Was an honor and pleasure to share the FFA. I felt the crux pitch was tougher than many BV 13As, but maybe I’m just getting soft?