The Hueco Crimper – V6
Description:
Start with right hand down low in a big slopey dish and left hand on a good edge. Stick your heel by your right hand then climb straight up.
Show Beta
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Zach Y: Just cam the shit out of your right foot and leave it there for basically the whole climb. -
AT: Went to the right hand undercling before the left hand sloper pinch -
oklee.doklee: Started with triple pad stack to get right heel and an index/thumb catch for your right hand. -
isamumar: I used higher, closer left foot to start to get my right heel in the start. Moved right heel up to the first sloper, after right hand up, then keep that heel until you are standing straight up and moving out right.
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Suzi Lu: Right heel hook, matched hands on the sloper then dropped the right foot lower into a toe
Recent Sendage:
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External hip rotation is so hard for me. Couldn't start with a heel hook in the hueco so I had to use a toe scum instead.
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2024-04-03It took me a long while to figure out how to use the heel and not have it slip out!
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Sent from one move in first because the guide was confusing. Figured something was wrong because it was way too easy and did it from the proper start right after. Still seemed a little too easy for a 6, even for LW.
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2023-09-05
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Start feels contrived compared to the low. Novelty RH start hold. Always a beautiful riverside spot. -
Right before water level got too high. Heeling without a pain is a big win. Couldn't trust camming my foot in there last year. -
Changing of beta made a big difference. Beautiful area
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2022-10-02
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Nice rock! -
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Getting the heel right is a big component. Once you figure that out, the rest is powerful and punchy. Beautiful views. Access is water level dependence. -
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This whole boulder is kind of painful body position-wise. That heal hook isn't comfy. Beautiful area though. -
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2019-10-21
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2 sessions
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2019-05-06
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Pleasing
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2019-04-12
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2018-10-06
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Wasn't feeling the books beta so I went with a foot out left to get it going. Fun climb in a gorgeous setting, the landing was almost underwater!
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Skipped darn crimper. -
It's pretty fun, but I didn't use it's namesake? -
Cool moves in a beautiful setting. -
2018-04-17 -
2018-04-03
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2017-10-013rd go
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Gorgeous setting to be climbing beside the river! Very nice climb, ironic that the crimper itself needn't be used. Starting heel hook is a little unnerving as it feels like it could break your foot off.
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Low is more fun.
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2017-04-29 -
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Took a while to get the heel right. The finish on this one is really fun!
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2016-09-24Started matching R hand and foot in the Hueco
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2015-04-03Did it both ways, the easy and the slightly less easy way!
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heel hook felt dangerous at first, but... its not
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loved this one
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Amazing movement! -
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1
onsights9
flashes70
redpointsTotal Sends: 80
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