Graham McGrenere:Jumping to a tiny crimp aint for me - Start on gaston and sidepull. Left hand to rail, right hand to arete. Left heel hook by left hand, right foot on some smear. Right hand to the good spot on the arete. Crank on the heel and go to first crimp, bump to second crimp. Heel hook arete and go to jug.
aidandoyle:Start, Bump up to second tick on arrete than jump to to second crimp, jump to top
WAHHHH!!! Four years of projecting, so many different betas, and trips, and try's and so many close attempts. Today it felt really smooth and solid, everything came together and it finally worked out! Based on all the 10's and the few 11's I've done I think this is firmly in V11 land, despite the current known grade of "probably hard V10".