Conception – 5.13b


32m / 105ft, 16 bolts
FA: Maddy Marchuk - 2019-08-23

Description:

Climbs the overhanging prow right of Pandora, high above the "Sea of Holes" at Lower Acephale.

Climb either Badger Crack (5.7+) or Approach Route (11d) to Pandora, at the 7th bolt continue to trend right through easy climbing to a no hands rest at the base of the prow. Launch into steeper climbing strait up to a fixed chain-draw then trend right. At the upper roof escape left to the anchors through some tricky moves that may prove to be problematic if you are pumped...Enjoy!

Proposed grade is 13b but needs more action for a consensus.

The right variation climbing strait out the roof is called Contraception and goes at 13c/d.

16 Bolts (4 are generally fixed with long slings) - 30m - Clip-n-Go Anchors

Show Beta

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.13b
    2020-07-30
  • 5.13b
    2019-08-25
    One of steeper routes at Acephale and it’s littered with jugs. Pumpy climbing leads to a hard finish. Vote for best route at the crag!
  • 5.13b
    2019-08-23 (FA)
    Steep jug hauling up the wildly overhanging prow high above Lower Acephale. Its not over till both hands are firmly planted on the clipping jug! Super pleased with how this one turned out, by far the best line I have bolted. Feels good to cap off a great season of bolting/sending with the Gumbino Crew (Mason, Marcus, and Ysbrand). Thanks Dan B. for the patience while I finished bolting/cleaning this one on our "climbing days" haha.