Sean McColl on Climbing at the 2020 Olympics

Just last week climbers celebrated the announcement that sport climbing was added to the programme of the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020. Social media feeds were filled with prominent climbers sharing their excitement about the news. Magazines published quotes from the IOC and IFSC press releases. Generally, people were happy to see climbing recognized as an Olympic sport, but discussion and criticism about the proposed format quickly took over the comment sections.

We reached out to Sean McColl, a professional climber who will almost certainly be competing in the Games, to get his perspective.

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Jimmy Webb Sending The Matriarch, V15

Jimmy Webb gets the first ascent of The Matriarch (V15) in Rocktown, Georgia. This boulder seems to be a completely opposite style to Terremer, another V15 we featured last week. The V15 club is still small and it would be interesting to see which climbers are the most well-rounded at this grade.

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Simon Parton Sending Terremer, V15 (Video)

Simon Parton sent Terremer (V15) earlier this week. He just posted the video of his send on Facebook. The intensity of his battle cries give us no doubt he’s trying his hardest and that this problem is HARD!

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Simon Parton Sends Terremer, V15

Simon Parton sent Terremer, V15 on his first day back to Hueco Tanks. This problem was originally put up by Fred Nicole and then later repeated by Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods and Dan Beall. It links Diaphanous Sea (V12) and Terre de Sienne (V14), both of which are crimpy, powerful problems.

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11 Gift Ideas for Climbers

You probably know a climber, but you may not know what they want this holiday season. Here are some gift ideas that most climbers will appreciate.

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Joe’s Valley – New Areas – Utah

There has been new development at Joe’s Valley. Bryce Johnson has put together a guide that highlights the new problems. There are three new areas: The Flu, Hidden Dragon, and The Rastafarian.

Download the guide (Updated link to latest version of the guide on March 31st, 2016).

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Unicorn Canyon – AB, Canada

This guide to Unicorn Canyon is written by Peter Nelson and Craig Doram.

Download the guide

Unicorn Canyon is located just outside the edge of Kananaskis, between Barrier Lake and Nakiska Ski Resort/Kananaskis Village. It is the canyon on the SW side of Mt. Lorette, and is the canyon Lorette Creek flows down. There are two main areas, “Sunshine Castle”, and “Rainbow Wonderland”. There are also two smaller areas containing a handful of routes, “Pot of Gold”, and “The Moat”. The areas are listed in the order you will approach them as you hike in. Please be aware this is a new climbing area in the Canadian Rockies. As such, there will be loose rock, as there has not been much traffic on the routes. Bring a helmet and exercise a little more caution than you would otherwise. Having said that, the routes have been cleaned, and most of the rock is quite good.

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Ashima Shiraishi sends Terre de Sienne, V14 in Hueco Tanks

Ashima Shiraishi continues to prove that she’s a top climber. On her first day back to Hueco Tanks she takes down two test pieces in North Mountain. Terre de Sienne is a Fred Nicole special and Diaphanous Sea is one of Hueco’s classics.

I shocked myself by getting the first female ascent of the legendary razor blade climb, Terre de Sienne (V14)! It feels so good to see improvement in my climbing and that I’ve grown!! 3 years ago, I tried this climb for 2 weeks and got shut down on it. I also quickly sent Diaphanous Sea (V11/12), the iconic climb right next to it. I did not expect myself to do both of these climbs today!!

 

Source: Instagram

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Frank Slide – AB, Canada

Frank Slide is a huge bouldering area in southern Alberta. Authors Trent Hoover and Kyle Marco have graciously provided guidebooks to this area.

Overview Map
Healing Area Miniguide
House Area Miniguide

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Climbing Indoors For The First Time

There is likely a climbing gym in every major city in North America. Gyms have made the introduction to rock climbing much more accessible and the controlled environment helps beginners learn to be safe before climbing outdoors where things can be much more unpredictable. Your first experience climbing should be fun, social and great exercise. Here are a few things you should know to prepare yourself for your first time climbing.

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