Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

Was once a quite and secluded area from the main populace where you could find quiet and not many climbers ... ... Chippewa Creek Gorge was formed by glacier movements thousands of years ago. These glaciers exposed outcrops of Shale, Berea Sandstone, and Euclid Bluestone. In the late 1800s the Berea Sandstone and the Euclid Bluestone were quarried for use as building materials. This ended in the early 20th century due to a decreased demand for natural stone for construction. Brecksville Reservation was declared a public park soon after. In the late 1990s the first information about climbing in the park was posted to another rock climbing website. Problems were put up and documented by that generation of climbers, but not everything was posted back then, and the website ended up becoming defunct. Legal access to the park for climbing was problematic. There was a high risk of getting your gear confiscated by park rangers. Around this time, Jeffery Bonatti created a series of hand drawn “Ruff Guides” for the park, but they weren’t highly accessible. Due to this lack of organized information, each subsequent generation of climbers claimed FAs and gave names to lines that have likely been claimed and named multiple times before throughout the years. To add to this, the moss and lichen covers boulders that don’t see much traffic and makes it look like they’ve never been touched. The creek changes the sand bars and covers or reveals footholds and washes away evidence of being climbed. Currently, the park is more accessible and more developed for climbing than recent history. There is a trail being made by the park system going from the main Gorge Rim trail down to the creek where Pinch Arete and Keyhole are. Due to the volume of climbers that have been recreating in the park, it no longer feels sketchy to walk in with pads for a session due to power of the masses. On any pleasant day you can fully expect to see other people climbing. Work is being done to organize the lines into a definitive list with proper photos, names, locations, and grades. On the topic of conditions, many problems have had holds broken off in recent years due to being climbed when the rock is still wet. The boulders in the creek itself are much more tolerant to this due to many years of water erosion, but the rock higher up on the cliff line isn’t used to this kind of stress and breaks surprisingly easy. Surprising like, wow I’m falling but the hold is still in my hands, surprising. It usually takes a solid three days of dryness and wind to get back into shape after a good, longer in the spring and winter. The main parking area for climbing access is the Pavilion area at the East end of Chippewa Creek Drive. It isn’t the first lot by the waterfall, it is ~1000ft down the road, where there are four parking areas grouped together with a swing set and a pavilion. If you walk straight North from the swing set you'll find the chained entrance to the climbing trail with a sign that states “Stay on the designated trail.” Stay on designated trails. Check out climbchippewa.com for more assistance and this WIP map of problems/info/location ----> https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1n3KipMBR1zOSon5n8RcScCqQkjStPMV7&ll=41.31983427452158%2C-81.6170396062424&z=17

Quadra Island is the main Island in the Discovery Islands archipelago. It has about 2,700 year round residents and is a popular place for tourists because it's accessible, has lots of high quality outdoor activities and arts related things to do and see. The highest concentration of climbing routes is at Chinese Mountains where there are over 260 climbs developed. With the excellent trail network doing the heavy lifting the access to the crags is pretty straightforward although newcomers will want to pay close attention to the guidebook descriptions to navigate the maze of paths through the forest between the crags. There is granite and volcanic andesite found on Quadra Island. Because of the rain-shadow effect of the Vancouver Island mountains and mostly south-facing exposure the rock is surprisingly clean and dry for coastal BC. The locals pretty-much climb every month of the year. The rock character is outstanding and combined with the spectacular scenery this area is one of the best climbing areas in the Vancouver Island region. Most of the anchors are set up with more traditional climbing practices in mind, meaning that it's expected that a leader will belay a second from the top anchor and the team will then descend by walking off or rappelling. Only a few climbs are set up gym-style with over-the-edge-anchors for lead & lower. This suits the character of the crags and ledges, is the intent of the developers to fit with the multi-pitch skills and experience found here, and generally does facilitate easier access for setting top ropes. Bring slings and locking carabiners and be prepared to set up your own equalized anchors. Detailed guidebook is available from Wild Isle Publications: http://www.wildisle.ca/quadrarockclimbs/index.html

Lily Pad lane is the area that starts 30m upstream from the main Cougar Crag sport climbing wall - there are two distinct walls with climbs on them. The second wall has a distinct Wolf Head feature that looms over you. We aren't bolting this on purpose as its completely detached, yet solid for now. There are currently 17 climbs in Lily Pad lane. There are 3 closed projects at the moment. The climbs are uniquely burly, often wet for the first two bolts and are all natural. Expect to get your rope wet even though there are dry "lily" rock pads set up under each climb. Almost all the climbs are in the 12 - 15m range with 5 to 6 bolts on each climb.. Due to the constant seepage at the beginning of most of the climbs, stick clipping the first or second bolt is generally recommended.

Flinders cave is a modern discovery indeed. The cave hosts a great deal of obscenely steep, hard routes. Nicknamed “27 Heaven”- the climbing is upside down ceiling thuggery- which translates to be very physical and relentless. 'The Secret Cave' or ‘Flinders Cave’ is sixty metres high, but from twenty to fifty metres overhanging with the main wall being about twenty metres height at 60°- 80°. As Cameron Fairburn writes- “We had found the steepest terrain in QLD, or I should say rediscovered. We found a line of old 8mm hardware down the right wall of the cave that belonged to Frey Yule. We think he checked out the cave about five years previously but then moved interstate. The cave is SSW facing, so no sun all year round and only a 40min drive from 'Brisbane'. Unfortunately, there is also the 2.5km, 40min uphill walk in as well. The rock is solid volcanic trachyte with formations uncommon in Queensland; it's a mixture of fused blocks, huecos, crystallised slopers and hard crimps - the holds can be quite sharp. Some of the easier routes like 'The Nightmare of Milky Joe' (23) and 'Never Ask the Moon' (22) are super-fun cut-loose jug fests. Early in the piece, Glen established 'Wet Jigsaw Puzzle' (25) a short pump fest that climbs out of the steepest part of the wall. To add to this he climbed 'King of the Mods' (27), adding to a huge range of 27’s to come. Then the numbers rolled, I freed my project after my food was spiked 'Like a Man on Pepperoni' (27), possibly the steepest climb in 'Queensland'. That was until Glen equipped his, an 80° blank arête project, 'A Space Odyssey' 25m 30 or 5.13c”. 'The Secret Cave' consists of two developed areas: the steep main wall and a right hand wall which, although not as steep as the main wall, offers some challenging climbing. 'Terminus of Desire' (25) climbs from under the large overhang. This route will be used to access the steeper upper wall which has the potential for a couple of super hard routes. With all this new development Ross returned to develop what he hoped would be a nice easy sub-20 warm up. He ended up establishing 'Finger Tips and Mountain Tops' (23), an intricate crimp-fest climbing above the lip of this right-hand buttress. Ross then established 'Song and Dance Man' (27) a steep juggy start into a hard crimper sequence. Glen the power monkey campused his way to glory on Backstroke of the West (27) while another buddy of ours Antoine Moussette battled scorpion-eating spiders on one of the best 5.12c’s or 26’s in Qld “The French Connection' . There is still so much more to do. Hard unclimbed projects, the undeveloped upper wall and the central cave section as well as some creative batman starts. 'The Secret Cave' has proved to be a valuable asset to 'Queensland' climbing, not only in the unique steep terrain, but also in the addition of ever increasing harder sport climbs in 'Queensland'. When to go: All day, any day. Providing you can handle the heat on the walk-in.

*** these multi-pitch climbs are Mixed climbs of Sport AND Gear*** http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_colbuttress_rrock.html Approach to base of Columbia Buttress The Last Tango, The Noose and Eternity From the intersection Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 S drive for 3.1 km along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge and past the traffic light of Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South as far as the Canada West Campground. There is a small parking area on the north side of the highway. Park your car there. From the parking area walk 50 meters towards north to a Columbia Buttress sign. There leave the road to the left (west), follow the well marked approach trail to a narrow rock gully. Now walk for the final few minutes up this rock gully to the base of the climbs. All routes start at the same base bolt. 20 minutes from highway. Approach to top of Columbia Buttress The Hanging Judge and Convicted Drive: From Revelstoke drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge to the traffic light at Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South, 900 meters from western access to Revelstoke. From the Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South traffic light turn right and follow the Westside Road for 3.8 km. There turn left and drive along the Boulder Mountain Logging Road for 10.6 km (check topo). This brings you to a road pullout and a turn-off leading to the left. Park your car there. Trail: From the road pull-out and turnoff follow the narrow turn-off road leading to the left (south) for 400 meters, to a small parking area with a great view over Revelstoke and the Columbia Valley. From there walk along a well marked trail in southerly direction, downhill to the tree line. There keep following the trail downhill for 50 meters where you will find a cedar tree with two clothing hooks. Leave your pack there, as The Hanging Judge and Convicted are topping out at this point. Now keep descending the trail to the rappel route for The Hanging Judge and Convicted. 10 minutes from the parking area.

Chinese Mountains are a group of rocky knolls on the southeast flank of Mt Seymour a 600m-high, forested hill that dominates the topography of central Quadra Island. Chinese Mountains overlook the southern peninsula of Quadra and has a network of well-maintained hiking trails that takes many hikers and climbers to some fantastic lookouts to the views of the Salish Sea, Rebecca Spit and the mountains of Strathcona Park and the mainland Coast Range. There are over 260 established routes at Chinese Mountains and nearby Morte Lake. The rock is andesite, a type of volcanic basalt. Most of the routes are bolt-protected sport routes. There are some mixed trad and bolt protected routes and just a handful of purely trad climbs. Almost all the belay anchors are bolted and equipped with rappel rings, those that aren't are generally adjacent to readily accessible anchors that do have rings. The climbs on Quadra Island have been developed with belays located at ledges. This makes the anchors for the single-pitch routes more accessible for setting up top ropes and fits well with the aesthetic of multi-pitch climbing and acquiring the skills for that. There are only a few routes with anchors 'over-the-edge, for lead and lower. It is recommended to carry several long (120cm) slings and locking carabiners and have the skills to set up equalized anchors. Different styles are possible but the climbs are set up for a leader to belay following climbers from the top anchor and the team descending either by rappel or walking-off. Please do not run ropes through the rappel rings for repeated top roping. Build an anchor and the last climber down can either thread the rope through the rings for lowering or rappelling, or walk-off where suitable.

The Rock: Ranging from slab to overhangs, this rock represents more of the Castlegar goodness you know and love. Lots of unique features allow for steep overhanging routes to go at reasonable grades. The climbing sits about 350m higher in elevation than the Castlegar valley bottom, lending to crisp morning temps even on the hottest days. You can expect the sun to come around at about 1:30 PM. Recent Climbing History: We are still gathering info so we can document past work done by the pioneers. Folks like Gord Lindsay, Shawn Tasker, JT Croston, Cam Shute, Ian Macdonald and Mark Senyk (among many others) have been climbing here for decades. Please contact us with all info that you have. There is significant evidence of prior climbing ranging from old webbing & anchors, to bolts of various vintage. It’s safe to assume that any clean cracks have been climbed. Access has always been the limiting factor until recently. Stephen Senecal and I took a renewed interest in the area in the Fall of 2018, and plans were made to request access. Trail Building to the bluffs began in earnest in Spring 2019, with Castlegar locals Andrew Osnach and Greg Mooney joining to explore the area and route the trail up to the Launch wall. The first new modern sport routes (Arms race 11a and Facepalm 11c) were added to the area a few weeks after. The quality and quantity of the area was immediately apparent. Nic Williams, Jarrad Monger Andrew Osnach, Greg Mooney, Liam Barnes and Keith Story joined the action. Always searching for futuristic lines, Nic Williams discovered the loft in the fall of 2019 (and its amazing horizontal roof flake), and dropped everything to establish this ultra-classic hard sport climb. Much to our surprise, the loft gave way to the highest concentration of moderate climbing at the bluffs (so far). 2020 brought the addition of the Picnic Bluff crags (Hawkeye, Craftbrew and Shadetree Crags). Allen Rollin and Jarrad Monger turned their attention to the obvious mixed lines at the Launch wall. Keith Robine and Nicolas P.I. added some great multipitch climbs. Lots of new sport and gear routes are in development, stay tuned!

Vancouver Island is the 43rd largest island in the world at approximately 500km long, 150km wide with an area of 31,285 sq km. It lies off the west coast of British Columbia, Canada from where it is reached by an extensive ferry system from mainland ports. The island is shaped a bit like a squat triangle with the southern half running north to south and the northern half jutting more to the west. The majority of the towns and cities are dotted along the east side of the island at the southern half. The northern half of Vancouver Island and the mountainous interior is largely rugged wilderness crisscrossed by extensive industrial logging roads. A few paved highways cross the island to smaller west coast communities such as Port Renfrew, Tofino, Gold River and Port Alice. For the climber, Vancouver Island is a great destination. There are a number of well developed cragging and bouldering areas and vast resources of high alpine climbing. A good overview of the sport climbing areas can be found at: www.wildisle.ca/islandclimbing/vancouver-island-climbing-areas.html The rock is mostly volcanic basalt and ~75% of the climbing is on this rock type. It is generally solid with good friction but lacks good, continuous crack systems so most of the crag routes on the Island basalt are bolt protected or mixed bolt & trad. There are also areas with limestone - Horne Lake, granite - Constitution Hill, sandstone - Duncan boulders and conglomerate - Saltspring Island. Vancouver Island has exceptional alpine climbing with a very active core of local alpinists adding new routes steadily. Look for a comprehensive guidebook to the Vancouver Island mountains: Island Alpine Select from Wild Isle Publications: http://www.wildisle.ca

One the latest cliffs to undergo development at the Moose Mountain Crags. It’s another small stand alone satellite cliff. As it’s name suggests it’s found on the eastern bank of Canyon Creek. The cliff face rising directly above of the creek bed. The last sector described in this update. Canyon Creek usually only runs wet during spring runoff or after large thunder storms. These factors could make this venue an issue to reach, climb, or belay during these wet periods. Use sound judgment before trying to cross the creek if water levels are up go elsewhere. Have a look from the road (looking down) to assess creek conditions before you need to commit.

The Crest Creek Crags are a rock climbing area situated adjacent to highway 28 just within the western boundary of Strathcona Park, roughly an hours’ drive from the city of Campbell River, or 15 minutes from the Town of Gold River to the west. The crags are located close to the road (in most cases approaches take less than 10 minutes). The crags occupy a square kilometer or so, and exist alongside a logging road, a water diversion project, a power line and Highway 28. The crags themselves are composed of basalt, an igneous rock that formed as domes of pillow lava during undersea eruptions; which was then uplifted. Glacial advancement scraped sediments from the bedrock and then receded, revealing the hard, grayish-brown rock that provides superb climbing today. Cracks tend to be discontinuous, however, and climbing routes often require the placement of fixed protection. There is a guide book called "Crest Creek Rock Climbs", published by Wild Isle. It released in 2018 and is available online, and from many outdoors shops in BC (MEC, Valhalla Pure, Climb On, and many more)

This is the main bouldering area along the ‘Rialto Connector’ Trail linking up Kawasaki, Lookout & Fantasyland. There are many high quality boulders with a diverse array of styles and rock to choose from that tend to be on the shorter, more approachable side (with a few exceptions). Although there are only a small amount of problems to choose from, the unique birch and maple forest (that is excel- lent in the fall), the long season, the unique problems and fantastic climbing makes up for it’s size. It’s also located right at the base of the main ‘Lookout’ trail that makes for an easy pit stop on route. The ‘Colour Me Wild’ Boulder’ hosts two incredible faces with two totally different styles and soft landings, and is certainly a must-visit. And the ‘Fractal Forest’ features two amazingly gigantic boulders typical of Arrow Lake stacked with funky holds, impressive highballs and very interesting bands of Basalt & Gneiss blended together. (Courtesy of West Kootenay Bouldering free update)

Rodents ate the hand-drawn topo that used to be in the bucket up there, so crag photo provided below. All routes are accessed by rapping in - bring a jumar. Cold temps, sticky rubber, and good skin are essential! Most routes are still projects here. This wall is the diagonal, flat-looking face at the top of the hill above the Bayon, visible from the highway and at certain points along the creek. The climbing is pretty condition-dependent, so here are some tips to save you from hiking in and shredding your skin or otherwise just having a bad time: • The wall gets morning sun and afternoon shade. • It's relatively exposed and almost always gets strong wind, even when it's calm on the hike in. • Even in a light rain, the top of the wall will get wet. Keep in mind that this is your entry/exit route and it's presumably not a great place to be if there's a chance of lightning. • Just about all chalk will wash off the routes after a day of rain. • If you don't know what antihydral is or you're not a masochist, this might not be the crag for you.

For free topos, photos, and all the info you need, visit www.revelstokebouldering.ca The boulders are found West of Revelstoke on the EAGLE PASS FSR (forest service road) off of the trans-canada HWY # 1. From the main intersection accessing Revelstoke (Victoria/Laforme and HWY 1) you must head West towards Kamloops on the HWY. You will cross the mighty Columbia River and reach the intersection for HWY 23 South/Westsyde RD. (also a set of lights) - this is where you restart your odometer!! Continue past the intersection for 7 km's and until you have JUST passed the second set of passing-lanes from town. Use the shoulder of the HWY to slow down and turn RIGHT onto Eagle Pass FSR. *If the road dead-ends in 100 metres, you've turned on the wrong road and turned too early!* The Eagle Pass road will perform switch-back immediately and climb up the slopes. Once you have gone 700 metres and you have crossed a dry creek (if your lucky) you will have reached an area to park at the edge of the Cut-block on the left. Pull-over and Park. From parking you will continue up the FSR 20 metres to the P-Boulder and trail-head marked with Cairns on the right side and upwards on the mountain-slope. Note: FSR 20 has been refurbished. You can park at the apex of the first switchback and walk along the gravel road for about 500m before it turns to a faint trail that leads you to the Warmups Area. Note: Bring a large brush and bring your friends to this area, with some love it can be a great bouldering spot!

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_victor_rrock.html How to get there Coming from Revelstoke: Drive along the Trans Canada highway (Hwy1) towards west (Vancouver). Once you crossed the Columbia River Bridge and reached the turnoff for Hwy 23 S (traffic light), start counting the kilometers as you keep driving west along Hwy 1. At km 13.8 you come to a paved truck pullout, directly in between the highway and Victor Lake (second lake west of Revelstoke). This is a good place to park your car. Please do not park at the gravel pullout 280 meters east, dangerous for oncoming fast moving traffic. Coming from Vernon, Kamloops or Sicamous: Drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards east (Calgary). Once you are past the prominent red hotel at Three Valley Gap, keep driving towards east for another few kilometers. This will bring you across a bridge and further to the Victor Lake (third lake east of Sicamous). Park at the prominent paved truck pullout. Approach From the paved truck pullout in between the highway and Victor Lake walk for 280 meters along Hwy 1 towards east. This brings you to a gravel pullout (don’t park your car there). Cross the highway to its north side (caution fast driving cars and trucks). There walk along an overgrown road for approximately 80 meters towards east (historical wagon road from Sicamous to Revelstoke). From this point, walk up the steep trail to the base of the Victor Lake Wall. For the routes "Return of the Osprey", "Trans Canada" and "Pan America" branch off to the right shortly prior the actual wall (sign). For all other routes keep following the main trail aiming straight up and slightly climber left. 15 minutes from the highway. Descent for all Victor Lake Wall Routes From the top of the Victor Lake Wall walk down the marked trail towards west and eventually in south direction. This brings you within 30 to 35 minutes back to your car at the Victor Lake and the Trans Canada Highway. Just as on the Squamish Grand Wall or any route on Yamnuska, bring a super light pack and light approach shoes, climb one of the many grand routes and after the climb enjoy the quick walk down back to the highway. The Goat Ledge The Goat Ledge is the prominent large ledge separating the entire upper wall from the lower wall. The Victor Ledge allows climbers to bail from any route as you walk towards west, along this large ledge to the Ninth Symphony / The Mission. After you arrive at the fourth belay anchor of The Mission, rappel straight down the lower part of the Ninth Symphony and the Baldwin Start. (35m, 30m, 28m, 28m). In between Return of the Osprey and Restless Spirits is a fixed rope.

A set of south- and east-facing granite bluffs near the golf course between Agassiz and Harrison Hot Springs. The climbing features slab, crack and face climbing on grippy, fine-grained stone featured with many xenolithic inclusions which weather to give pockets of all size from monodoight to head sized. The Harrison Bluffs saw most of its traffic in the 1990's, but popularity died out somewhat and many routes became overgrown. Recently (2006+) climbers have been cleaning the area again to improve the mossy state of several climbs. Also several new routes are being cleaned. The rock in the area is very solid granite and it offers many nice slab and crack climbs ranging from 5.8'ish and up. The developement of some boulders on the East and West sides of the bluffs has been on going since this revitalization of the area. Though the landings can be challenging there are some instant classics in here well worth the time and effort. The climbing is at its best between March and November but is low-elevation enough to be good on sunny days through the winter. In general, weekdays are pretty quiet and weekends see up to a half dozen parties climbing. The range of grades is generally 5.8 and up and there are climbs up to 6 pitches long, plus extensive bouldering.

Eagle Crag is the highest bluff in the Chinese Mountains area at around 60m. The situation up on the south-facing hillside gives spectacular view of the surrounding Strathcona and Mainland Coast Range Mountains and adds to the exposure and atmosphere of the outstanding climbs. There are several faces and sub-crags so it takes some attention to detail to get oriented and locate the routes. The access path from the Chinese Mountains trail system arrives at the east (right) side of the crag. Branching uphill at this east end is the access path to the top of the crag and routes on Flying Snag Wall and Raven Corner. Continuing along the lower main path brings you to the base of the Main Wall and then continues west (climber's left) to the West Wing and at the end a path runs up to the top and down a forested draw to the base of Lower Eagle. Most of the routes are between 40 and 60m long. Some have mid-stations to break the routes into two pitches and where the climbing justifies it the anchors allow for lowering and top roping the lower pitches from the mid-point belays. Of these routes some work well to fire in one pitch. It's easy to tell on lead with directions from the guidebook as to how to best tackle each line. The rock is superb, solid andesite basalt which varies from steeper, clean, smooth grey texture to slightly off vertical, weathered coarse rock. There are a handful of Trad routes with one or two being exceptional quality. But as with most of the climbs on the Vancouver Island basalt the majority are sport routes with generous bolt protection.

Tanomah is sure to become a must-visit climbing destination as climber benefit from easy access to the rock, comfortable camping, favourable year-round temperatures at 2,000m altitude, friendly locals and huge scope for climbing with both sun and shade options at all grades. Wall of Shadows is located in the Al Sharaf park, just ten minutes from the center of Tanomah in Asir Province and a quick ten minute walk from the first crag and parking/camping area. Equipping at the Wall of Shadows was undertaken by the Saudi Climbing and Hiking Federation during the second phase of the Saudi Bolting Project in 2019. The team: project leader and author, Read Macadam, A. Mountaun Guide Piergiorgio Lotito, accomplished climber Alex Ruscior along with Federation's board member and climber Abdulrahman Alabdu equipped 40 new pithces between October 7th and 21st of 2019. The stone at Wall of Shadows is solid sandstone with magnificent granite and quartzite infusions. The climbing differs from the initial crag, Al Sharaf, in that it is entirely in the shade and therefore comfortable to climb all day and year-round. The style of climbing at Wall of Shadows ranges from immaculate slabs to steep physical climbing on pockets. Because it is in the shade, moss and lichen grows quite quickly. Please bring your brush to keep the lichen at bay, as well as to brush your excess chalk. More initiatives of the Saudi Climbing and Hiking Federation can be found at climbing.sa

From: https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/canada/ontario/south-western-ontario/area/5387488632 Slightly overhung outcrop of surprisingly solid rock and interesting holds, with safe and flat landings. Almost all the problems are sit starts and eliminates (only use the hand holds in the pictures uploaded to each problem) and the foot rail is out of bounds unless stated otherwise. Climbs are labelled left to right facing the wall. Dry in the winter. Seeps during snow melt and wet after rain. Bug spray mandatory during the summer (marsh nearby).

Red Rocks is composed of a three-thousand-foot thick escarpment of Aztec Sandstone, which has weathered into a series of ten major canyons which drain from west to east. This rock is generally well-bonded, being more solid than that found in the other great sandstone areas of the west, such as Zion or Canyonlands. Another major difference is that much of the rock is covered with a thin layer of desert varnish which on many of the faces, has partially weathered to lave behind a sea or good incut edges. it is these edges which allow routes like "Dream of Wild Turkeys", "Eagle Dance", and "Crimson Chrysalis" to climb such impressive features at a reasonable standard. in general, the unvarnished white and red rock can be soft, sandy and rounded in its natural state, although it cleans up well on popular routes to give very enjoyable climbing. Especially on some of the north-facing walls where the varnish has resisted weathering and there are far fewer face holds. on these walls the long, clean, crack and corner systems provide some of the best climbing routes in Red Rocks. - Red Rocks, Jerry Handren

Upstream from Rico's and Small's the creek drainage narrows to a slot canyon beneath a waterfall. The wall on the south is home to one of the oldest climbs in the creek. The wall on the north side of the chasm has some climbs lower down (and easier to get to) and the upper section has good potential for some hard routes. The approaches can be difficult, interesting and/or wet depending on the water-level of the creek.

The strip of rock across the middle of Grotto Mountain. How many times have you gazed up at the blue streaked panels beside the chronically wet spots on Grotto and thought "I wonder if that's any good?" It is. Developed in 2024 and 2025, this sector has 5 star climbs from 5.10 to 5.13 and potentially harder. Most climbs have a similar aspect to Pacific Theatre with morning shade until 1pm or 2pm. This wall also sees more wind than the eyes so its climbable in warmer temps if there is a breeze. [See full guide here for approach beta and topos](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IjhJ30qLM6JZOxiV62qc4cP9vFVuuXhI/view?usp=drive_link)

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff – at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long. Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) – the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the “Great Gully”). To the left of the “Great Gully” is a smaller wall called “Mid-Wall”. The “Mid Wall” is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the “North Gully”. The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well. There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950’s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook “Central BC Rock” by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere. The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand. Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 “Icy BC”. New Route Development Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval. Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays. Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger. Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.

Quarry Boulders are located in the North end of the island near Vesuvius. Lots of pads and spotters are recommended because boulders are stacked and landings are bad, and some boulders hang out over the water so you may get wet.

The Turtle is unique because while the base is on private property, the landowner is supportive of climbing at the crag. The cliff tends to stay in the shade for most of the day and is a good option during warmer weather. To prevent erosion, please avoid this area during wet conditions (spring thaw) or after a day of rain. The crag has routes ranging from steep powerful pulling to more conventional technical pocket and small-edge climbing. THIS CRAG NOW REQUIRES RESERVATIONS. DO NOT CLIMB HERE WITHOUT RESERVING. Reserve your spot here: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/turtle-code/ Gus' and Justin Dwyer's Guide for Turtle: https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/assets/the-turtle-guidebook/The-Turtle-2018.pdf

The Flatirons are synonymous with Boulder and the history of rock climbing in North America. It would be hard to find another location in the country where such an extensive variety, from scrambling to hard "Head Point" routes exist so close to a major metro area. They form the backdrop to Boulder and are the centerpiece of Boulder's Open Space system. There are three main areas: Flatirons North: This area includes classic rocks such as the First, Second, and Third Flatirons, along with the Amphitheatre in Gregory Canyon. Climbs here range from short newer-age sport climbs to long trad routes, including some of the longer trad routes in the area, the whole face of the 3rd Flatiron, which is about 1300 feet and the Direct East Face of the 1st which is about 1400 feet. Hard conglomerate Fountain Formation sandstone is the medium for your rock craft. Flatirons Central: There are many rocks to explore in this area. The "Central" zone spans Bear Canyon to the Ironing Boards (just South of the 3rd Flatiron). Slabmongers can have many field days exploring the numerous smaller Flatirons, and there's a good amount of trad and even sport among these rocks. Have fun in this scenic setting. Flatirons South: This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, East Ridge, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and The Goose offer slabs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest climb in the area is here. There is plenty to explore here. (Note: Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb. 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr. 1 to Aug. 31. Historically, some of these have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Sphinx, Medusa, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, Bear Creek Spire, Harmon Cave (bats), East Face of The Hand (bats), East Face of The Finger Flatiron (bats), East Face of Der Zerkle (bats), Dreadnaught, Achean Pronoucement, Skunk Canyon Ridge 2 & west, Sacred Cliffs, East & West Ironing Boards, The Third Flatiron, Queen Anne's Head, occasionally Gregory Amphitheatre, and possibly others.) (Source: Mountain Project)

THIS AREA IS NOW CLOSED The tenure of this land has now changed to Reserve for Aboriginal and cultural purposes. This land has many cultural and environmental values and is a special place for Aboriginal people. The Dhagun Yumba Aboriginal Corporation has been appointed as trustee for the land and asks that you respect the cultural significance of the area by not entering and climbing on the land. FINES APPLY FOR BREACH - CULTURAL HERITAGE ACT Do NOT ENTER This legislation helps land users and Traditional Owners protect and manage cultural heritage. It requires anyone who carries out a land use activity to exercise a duty of care. This 'duty of care' means land users must take all reasonable and practicable measures to ensure their activity does not harm Aboriginal cultural heritage. Fines of up to $133,450 for an individual and $1,334,500 for a corporation apply for causing unlawful harm to Aboriginal cultural heritage or for breaching the duty of care may apply. Cultural heritage duty of care guidelines have been developed to help land users in assessing reasonable and practicable measures for meeting the cultural heritage duty of care. Land users should consult the duty of care guidelines before undertaking a land use activity.

Hi Everyone! wn a better description for Gold Mine, firstly I'd like to introduce myself! My name is Brendan Baars, a climber from Michigan. I was a part of the main 3 guys that found and established Gold Mine and The Nooks. The Nooks is what we call the whole area and Gold Mine is just a sub area to the region. I am writing this because Gold Mine has received so much attention from everyone in Ontario! I'm blown away with the response to the area and thank everyone that put in time and effort to maintain the trails and develop boulders for everyone. I have mainly been the leading charge for putting the information out there for everyone to enjoy and will continue to do so with everyone's help! I love to hear from people about their experience, especially if new boulders get developed! I would love for you to message me on Instagram (BrendanBaars). The guidebook for the area has been released and below you can find a link to buy it. In addition is video information on most of the climbs throughout the videos/youtube channels. INFORMATION: Guidebook https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/Guidebooks/the-nooks-bouldering/ This area located near the Eyeball multi-pitch climbing area includes very easy access with short approaches to big boulder fields. Found in 2018, the general area has the potential for thousands of problems from V0-Vpro. As of now we have established something like 170+ problems in the main area called the gold mine and is located off a paved road with a 3-minute approach. The boulders range from 10' to 30' with mostly good landings and the proximity being as good or better than LRC in Chattanooga. Virtually all the boulders are within 5 minutes of each other. It's like walking through a maze. Topo: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118166169/the-dreamersbush-nookie-boulders https://www.climbsudbury.com/gold-mine Videos The Nooks Film - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDGLjsdJ_Jw What got the hype started - https://vimeo.com/363284129 My Youtube Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKFSs9Cn007bK6LmANNHQ4Q?app=desktop Danny Plonkas Youtube Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQzvGZIfL_KyDnr1-bagLNg

High quality granite scree and glacial erratics with nice forest floor landings within a pristine wilderness setting alongside the headwaters of a crystal clear river that are accessed by a all wheel drive service road that is currently a bit mangled due to fresh logging. However road is still awd access (not 4wd) with adequate clearance and driving skills (don’t spin tires because it damages road) Boulders are near the town of Gibsons BC. the home of Persephone Brewery and many great eateries. The most reliable time to visit is May through September but other times can be spectacular, weather permitting. The adventurous and newly established Ice and Fire Zone extending from Roadside Zone up 1.5 km requires all wheel drive and experienced off road driving skills or 4 wheel drive and careful driving. Driving to halfway point of this zone and parking near tower or just before is recommended to inexperienced off road drivers because road gets very rough and steep after tower. It is also possible to walk to the Ice and Fire zone from roadside zone parking.