This venue is roughly 300m wide and is one of the older sectors at the Moose Mountain Crags. It has a south facing aspect and hosts some of the earliest lead problems developed in the area. Until recently nearly all the climbs in these sectors were 5.11 & 5.12 and most offered up sustained technical face climbing with burly bits. Some of the earliest climbs found here have a slightly more spacious bolt spacing than the newer modern standard at the Moose Mountain Crags. For winter options this cliff has south exposure and usually comes into the sun about 10:30-11:00. Things get decidedly warm if the sun is shining. A great winter crag from end of January going forward. There is more wind exposure at this part of the cliff. For the best results while winter cragging remember it needs to be sunny, plus two or three, and no wind and you will have t-shirt conditions. In the fall it has sun until the end of October. Best avoided in the darker months from November till the end of January as the sun is too low on the horizon during these winter months unless its really warm.

Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

Overall this cliff is a newer moderate warm-up venue for climbers going to the Moose Mountain Crags. The Beach Front Buttress was fully developed in the spring of 2019. Until recently it was the first climbable cliff encountered on the way into the area. There are thirteen routes on this sunny south facing aspect. The crag is tucked in behind a treed shoulder with generally good sun exposure and it’s out of the wind for the most part. Overall it hosts moderate climbing (ten routes are in the 5.10 range or less) making for an ideal stop to warm up on before heading up valley to try some of the harder fare on offer. This small crag provides a pleasant venue to spend the day doing low intensity moderate cragging. The only drawback to these fun routes is the overall height of the cliff at around 20m or less, it simply leaves climbers wanting more. In spring/late winter this small buttress catches the sun roughly an hour before the Moose Patch sector located another 5 minutes up the road. Stopping off here allows climbers to start their day bit sooner. This crag is usually out of the wind and a sun trap making it ideal for late winter and early spring rock climbing and fighting with marginal temperatures. Named after the unusual sand beach found below the cliff on the northern flank of Canyon Creek. The venue makes for a very fun hang. The creekbed was dry during the three weeks of development in March and early April of 2019. However, later in the year be aware that water levels can change rapidly and crag access may require proceeding upstream crossing over the bridge and then working back along the north bank of Canyon Creek during spring runoff or following heavy rains from intense summer thunder storms. All climbs on this crag are well protected, most require six or seven draws plus clips for the anchor. All top anchors are from two staggered ring-bolts. Note: There are some very low first bolts on some routes along with a couple, two-bolt base anchors detailed on the photo-topo. These low height bolts are intended for base anchors to back up tied off trees to allow lead rope soloing on these climbs. Please do not remove these lower hangers. Feel free to clip these bolts while leading or ignore them. Please don’t remove or vandalize this low hanging hardware.

Qld’s hardest crag- coolum cave hosts the majority of hard climbs in the state. The climbing is powerful, pumpy, full body and core intensive. The rock is absolutely stunning bullet hard Volcanic rock with many horns and Stalactites throughout the cave. Bring your kneebar pads and best steep shoes for heel hooks. There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic! Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

Ravens Crag is home to Banff National Parks best water sculpted Limestone. The silver and black streaked walls are very high in quality, offering extremely cryptic, powerful, gymnastic, steep climbing. Expect interesting holds such as small crimps, powerful underclings, pencil pinches, high friction slopers, gastons, flat holds and sharp jugs of the sulphuric stone type. The first pitches are short because they pack such a punch!! The crag was first envisioned in the 90's by Peter Arbic with interesting holds throughout. In 2015-16 routes were all retrofitted with glue-ins as seepage can be a concern at this north facing wall. New development on Fun Club Ledge has popped up two new longer pitches. Alpine feeling indeed, taking in the view from these longer pitches such as Nevermore 12b being Uber classic. The Masque P2 as well as Telltale Heart P2 being the absolute Gem’s of the crag. Mega classic, airy and sandbagged. We recommend Telltale Heart P1 as a warm up. Bring a jacket as the crag stays chilly even in August. Look out for the big old boy, Raven who guards over the crag and enjoy, Banff's best sport climbing. Oh, yeah this is home to one of Canadas hardest climbs. ;)

A zone of high quality boulders that for some reason never made it into the Vancouver Rock Climbing Guide book. The problems lie approximately 150m south west from the Fifth Tier at Godman Creek and are likely the hardest boulders in the Godman area. The lines are tall and technical, but thankfully have flat and wide landings. South west facing and sparse trees make this an ideal location for quick drying rock or warm early season climbing.

The wave is some of Skaha's steepest climbing. It is a popular crag due to its proximity to the parking lot and because of its orientation to the sun. On a winter or cold day it is a lovely place to warm yourself and get pumped. Harder climbs are represented in this short and steep band of rock. Even though the wall is far from aesthetic, it features fantastic movement.

Lots of easier grade boulders, good place to warm up.

The spectacular Discovery Islands archipelago is located along the Inside Passage, between Campbell River, north-central Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia, on Canada's west coast. Quadra Island and Cortes Island are the best known of the Discovery Islands and home for most of the local residents. The warm, temperate climate, spectacular scenery, abundant wildlife, quiet, rural-lifestyle and endless year-round recreation opportunities all make the Discovery Islands a highly desirable place to live and visit.

On the island of Crete, a small tourist town about 1.5hrs from Chania. The cliff is about two minutes from the road/studios. Getting slapped around by the climbs? Take a break by jumping right in the warm ocean.

The Girl Rock of Boy and Girl Rocks is a good warm-up spot with friendly patina holds. Great for new climbers to the Buttermilks who want to get acquainted with the height without worrying about the grade.

Located about 7km up the Silver Skagit road on the hillside east of Silver Lake. Spaced across the steep hillside in a dense forest. Spring and Fall are prime conditions. Summer is possible but warm and buggy.

This tall, striking cliff sits directly opposite Maternal Wall and makes an excellent compliment to that crag due to their opposing aspects and similar grade spread. Like Maternal, the best routes on Screeching Wall tend to be long, gently-overhanging endurance affairs, but there's a lot of mediocre fodder crammed between the gems. If you visit, leave those pitches for later and focus on the crag classics such as 'Watching Bananas Bend' (5.10b), 'Flight of the Fledgling' (5.11a), and 'Isis in Chains' (5.11c). Conditions: Screeching Wall is east facing and gets morning sun. There are trees in the bottom of the canyon near the wall's base, so finding tree shade is possible if it's warm. Screeching wall was developed largely by Robyn Barley around the time that maternal wall was being developed by John Fantini. It requires one to climb many crimps on polished and blocky gneiss. There are slab, vertical and slightly overhanging routes to be had.

The Black Corridor has about 30 routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a. The routes are slabby to slightly overhanging. The left side of the corridor gets morning sun and the right side mid day sun. Fun area for beginners or those looking to warm-up for some harder sends.

Foreplay is one of the most distant crags from Skaha's southern parking lots, but if approached from the north it's a relatively quick hit. Before 2014 it saw very little interest, but a blitz of recent activity has resulted in a large collection of excellent routes. Foreplay's main wall is slightly overhanging and, at 20 metres tall, brings on a good pump. The routes become less steep near the south end and the slabby Terry's Face and Reilly Rock both have a good collection of technical moderates. If you visit, don't miss 'Back Hand of God,' one of Skaha's best 5.12a's. Condition: Foreplay and Reilly Rock both face due west, providing cool, shady conditions on warm mornings. Terry's Face tilts to the south and gets plenty of sun throughout the day. There are no trees to speak of in this zone, so don't expect any shaded areas for belaying or lounging.

A small collection of problems. Lots of warm ups. Shady. Keep a low profile.

From the parking lot hang a right after the slab boulder that guards the entrance. Up the hill to your left you'll see the Warm-Up boulder, keep going until you hit a grouping of rocks. Contains the Yosemite Sam, Mantle, and Out There boulders.

Steep wall just downhill from the waterfall and waterfall wall. Good concentration of harder sport 11's and 12's with a couple good trad lines and warm ups. An easy trail can be used to access the top of the climbs for setting up top ropes with many anchors and trees to assist getting to the main anchors safely. Care must be taken with slippery rock in places.

A classic area with great easy warm ups, and a few hard ones scattered throughout

Only a few climbs bolted so far. Easy warm-ups, but dusty rock because it's new.

Technically 2 different boulders, but both considered part of Toxic - a tall rectangular one, and a smaller, but long oval shaped one just behind the first. Mostly hard climbs, and 2 middle-grade climbs, spare 2 easy warm-up climbs on the right-side face of the rectangular boulder, and a V0 around the left side of the second boulder.

The cliff is located on the east shore of Lac Blanc and faces south west. As such it receives early morning shade and then all day sun. The positioning above the lac allows for a slight breeze which can help cut the heat during the warm summer temperatures. Supposedly this is a good crag to avoid crowds. Dires quickly after rain

This is a new bouldering area in the Mt. Seymour Conservation Area near Deep Cove. Most of the problems are moderate. A great warm up area if you are on your way to climb at Quarry Rock or Cove Marina climbs.

This is the lower bouldering area. It has the highest concentration of problems, and is usually the most clean. It is more open than the other areas, so dries out a little quicker after rain. It is closer to the road, so the sound of cars take away from the forest vibe slightly. Has many good moderate difficulty climbs, in the V2 to V4 range. Only a few climbs that are V7 or harder though. Good place to warm up.

Sector 3 is the third boulder area, furthest from where you park/the start of the lake, currently with the most boulder problems, around 30. It has a wide variety, good warm up section, a couple harder problems, and loads in-between.

A perfect boulder for warming up. It has a V0, and three V2s.

One of the largest boulders in the crag with maybe the best rock quality. This sub area will include surrounding climbs aswell. This boulder is west of the head wall and fang if you enter from the east/ warm up area.

This is the far east boulder cluster. And is also the area where you enter if you come down the main downclimb.

The F1 boulders host some of the earliest development in the fields. They are quite popular thanks to the short approach, concentration of quality problems, and good landings. Many people stop here to warm up before approaching problems in other areas.