Ghostface Drilla - 5.13c/d The B.I.B.L.E. - 5.13c Champ Pt. 1 - 5.14a to midpoint anchor Champ Pt. 2 - 5.hard (Project) Proto Sloth - 5.13b Giant Sloth - 5.13c Muddy Sloth - 5.13c Terror Wolf - 5.13+ Terror Bird - 5.13a/b Destiny - 5.11a Crystal - 5.10d China Rose - 5.13d (more like v9/10) Ginger Rude - 5.13b (more like v8/9) Donkey Slam - 5.12a Aquatic Redneck - 5.12a/b This Rage Meter Goes to 11 - 5.12c C.R.E.A.M. (missing damn near everything.) Bring Da Ruckus - 5.11d/12a (From mountain proj)

Topos here: http://justanotheroutdoorpage.blogspot.ca/2013/05/gotham-city-nelson-bc-rock-climbing.html Hidden down amongst the trees right off the highway in a quiet spot, Gotham City hosts 13 great little sport routes on very well featured rock. The highest being about 15 meters, all the climbs pack a lot of fun in a very short time. There is something for everyone here from 5.9 to 5.11a with a bunch of great steep, sustained climbs around the 10a-10d range. The rock varies from granite, to basalt and even a little limestone-ish stuff near the bottom of the Bat Wall. All the climbs are bolted well and have great stations accessible from a trail that leads to the top that makes for some very easy top roping. Keep in mind this is a new area and of a fractured nature. Expect loose rock and some little blocks coming off time to time. Again a wonderful area that faces south and makes for a great day 20 minutes from Nelson. Thanks to Shaun King from Mountain Sense for the development of the area! (All of the FA's are credited to S.King as well 2011)

Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

The rock quality here is the best in the St. George area - basalt with a shiny, slick black desert patina. Holds are mostly pockets with sharp edges. The rock itself is very low friction. The routes are short , 30-40’ on the sunny side and 40-50’ on the shady side. The climbing is very good with something for everyone, both trad and sport and 5.8-5.13. If the routes were longer this would be a destination crag.

A few boulders just down from Center Stage. Helps bridge the gap between the very easy and very hard climbs at Center Stage. [NANAIMO BOULDERING GUIDE](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PYZZcl4dBR3U6ha-VNCc-cEcWD6dJLwp/view?usp=sharing) ^CLICK HERE^

Horizon Wall is one of the best outcrops at Chinese Mountains. It has a very open, south exposure with very few trees which keeps it dry and clean. The character of the rock is made for climbing with incredible friction, beautiful positive holds on steep and continuous natural lines.

A pile of boulders lay in the forest on the east end of the bluffs. Very much a buried talus field and somewhat challenging to get to, but some of the very best lines developed in the Fraser Valley at this time can be found here. Bring your pads and a sense of adventure. You'll need both!

Saskatchewan is known as the Land of the Living Skies. It’s home to a friendly, tough, hard-working people. They get strong playing hockey and working on the farm and are hardened by the long, -40 degree winters and never ending prairie winds. The land they work is some of the richest farmland on the planet but unfortunately it might just be the flattest as well. They say it’s so flat you can watch your dog run away for 3 days; which needless to say is not very conducive to rock climbing. Despite the top half of the province being made of granite, (known as the Precambrian Shield) there is very little to climb up there and so far almost no climbing has been documented. The only thing to climb in the bottom half is gyms, trees, and the odd glacial erratic (boulders carried and deposited by glaciers) in the middle of farmers’ fields. Saskatchewan has a lot of things to offer but unfortunately, rock climbing isn’t one of them.

Passchendaele is a granite oasis of medium to tall perfect blocs. It is located 15minutes outside Stanthorpe, close to the town of Amiens, in the “Passchendaele State Forest”. Sectors are scattered all around the lush forests, with some of the most impressive and hard bouldering in the state. Opportunities are absolutely endless with over 360 new problems developed but with a scope of 1000’s. The climbing tends to be very fingery, powerful and rewards patience. Being the “capital of cool” out in the granite belt, weather tends to be mountainous, meaning very cold mornings and some of the countries best temperatures for hard climbing. Get amongst the future of Australian bouldering on some of the states best granite.

This peaceful crag, located deep in the northern end of Skaha Bluffs, has one of the highest concentrations of gear-protected climbs. Since the protection on these routes tends to be very good and the grades very moderate, Chatsworth attracts climbers learning to gear climb as well as those keen on practising their skills. Due to the prevalence of clean cracks, some guides use this cliff as a teaching site. If you arrive to find a group in situ, don't fret - there are plenty of lines available and the vast majority of guides are more than willing to step aside to accomodate recreational climbers. Conditions: Chatsworth Edge faces due east and gets morning sun, but the open forest on this bench provides intermittent shade along the cliffbase and on certain parts of the wall.

The wall is directly beside the parking area, and is 20m from the road. Short routes with hard starts is the name of the game here. Very good, sometimes sharp and sometimes slippery rock dominate the crag here. The rock is very good, with lots of unique coral like holds. All routes have been bolted with the intention of stick clipping the first bolt.

Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff – at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long. Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) – the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the “Great Gully”). To the left of the “Great Gully” is a smaller wall called “Mid-Wall”. The “Mid Wall” is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the “North Gully”. The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well. There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950’s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook “Central BC Rock” by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere. The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand. Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 “Icy BC”. New Route Development Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval. Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays. Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger. Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.

Very short approach, pretty setting and some problems dry very quickly. Be on lookout for loose rock, traffic will help clean lines up nicely.

Overall this cliff is a newer moderate warm-up venue for climbers going to the Moose Mountain Crags. The Beach Front Buttress was fully developed in the spring of 2019. Until recently it was the first climbable cliff encountered on the way into the area. There are thirteen routes on this sunny south facing aspect. The crag is tucked in behind a treed shoulder with generally good sun exposure and it’s out of the wind for the most part. Overall it hosts moderate climbing (ten routes are in the 5.10 range or less) making for an ideal stop to warm up on before heading up valley to try some of the harder fare on offer. This small crag provides a pleasant venue to spend the day doing low intensity moderate cragging. The only drawback to these fun routes is the overall height of the cliff at around 20m or less, it simply leaves climbers wanting more. In spring/late winter this small buttress catches the sun roughly an hour before the Moose Patch sector located another 5 minutes up the road. Stopping off here allows climbers to start their day bit sooner. This crag is usually out of the wind and a sun trap making it ideal for late winter and early spring rock climbing and fighting with marginal temperatures. Named after the unusual sand beach found below the cliff on the northern flank of Canyon Creek. The venue makes for a very fun hang. The creekbed was dry during the three weeks of development in March and early April of 2019. However, later in the year be aware that water levels can change rapidly and crag access may require proceeding upstream crossing over the bridge and then working back along the north bank of Canyon Creek during spring runoff or following heavy rains from intense summer thunder storms. All climbs on this crag are well protected, most require six or seven draws plus clips for the anchor. All top anchors are from two staggered ring-bolts. Note: There are some very low first bolts on some routes along with a couple, two-bolt base anchors detailed on the photo-topo. These low height bolts are intended for base anchors to back up tied off trees to allow lead rope soloing on these climbs. Please do not remove these lower hangers. Feel free to clip these bolts while leading or ignore them. Please don’t remove or vandalize this low hanging hardware.

Tall cliff with a lot of potential for future development. This cliff rises well above the forest but has a very shady base. Still very much an adventurous visit if you go there, but the climbs are great, if still a bit dirty. Bring a brush to help.

A 15 meter high sandstone conglomerate cliff near the south end of Extension Ridge in South Nanaimo. Fairly solid rock by Nanaimo Formation standards, with micro-pebble style conglomerate similar to Sunny Side. Some sections of the wall are highly featured while others are completely blank, so there are very few moderate climbs. The crag base is situated very close to a popular, well established mountain bike trail, so do not leave gear on or belay from the trail. This crag is still under development, so please respect the red tags and keep off those climbs. Named after the long defunct Extension Prospect coal mine, the entrance to which lies 100 meters south of the crag,

As derived from The Fraser Valley Climbing Guide by John Valecko & Jasper Fast: This wall faces west and is in a clear cut. It dries very quickly. A small set of cams and a 60m rope work well for all of the routes. Very beginner-friendly area. Further development possibilities remain.

Le Lac Clair, dans la Zec Lavigne, est un site d'escalade traditionnelle un peu à l'écart qui a été développé au début des années 2000. On y retrouve une grande quantité de voies traditionnelles modérées. West facing cliff over a beautiful lake in the Zec Lavigne. Camping spots located around the lake that can be reserved through the Zec. Rock quality is variable from extremely unstable to very nice depending on the sections and areas of the cliff. 30 - 50 meters tall with several lines on it. The left side of the wall contains the easier lines (5.4 - 5.10) while the middle and right section have more challenging climbs and several projects. At the present time no bolted climbs are present and a very adventuresome spirit with a willingness to climb potentially highly chossy climbs required. Rappelling the lines and securing the routes prior to climbing might not be a bad idea in certain circumstances.

Red Rocks is composed of a three-thousand-foot thick escarpment of Aztec Sandstone, which has weathered into a series of ten major canyons which drain from west to east. This rock is generally well-bonded, being more solid than that found in the other great sandstone areas of the west, such as Zion or Canyonlands. Another major difference is that much of the rock is covered with a thin layer of desert varnish which on many of the faces, has partially weathered to lave behind a sea or good incut edges. it is these edges which allow routes like "Dream of Wild Turkeys", "Eagle Dance", and "Crimson Chrysalis" to climb such impressive features at a reasonable standard. in general, the unvarnished white and red rock can be soft, sandy and rounded in its natural state, although it cleans up well on popular routes to give very enjoyable climbing. Especially on some of the north-facing walls where the varnish has resisted weathering and there are far fewer face holds. on these walls the long, clean, crack and corner systems provide some of the best climbing routes in Red Rocks. - Red Rocks, Jerry Handren

15 minutes outside of Canmore. Everything from off vertical to very steep overhanging rock with lots of neat features. Everything is bolted and retro-fitting has been complete on lots of the routes. Climbs range from 5.6-5.13c most are in the 5.10a - 5.12b range. It is an awesome crag for mixed skill level groups because of the close proximity between easier and harder routes. Because of the easy access, this place can be obscenely busy, both with climbers and hikers!

Possibly the best limestone area in southern New Mexico. LCC is a large, very remote area northwest of Carlsbad, NM. Takes about 1 hour 45 min to drive in from Carlsbad. The climbing is found along a specific 'S' shaped curve within a much bigger canyon. Hike down is about 700 ft elevation drop from the rim, and takes 15-30 min depending on which area you go to first. Best walls are Tornado Alley, Solstice Cave, Violence Wall and Mad Cow.

1.45 bus ride from Mexico City in the North lies Mexico’s hardest sports climbing. “The Egg or Huevo” as locals call it has the main concentration of 5.13/14’s in Mexico. The routes are steep long and pumpy on conglomerate volcanic rock. Camping is under the Egg and locals are friendly. Topos can be found around the internet. Weekends are busy so try to climb during the week as all the classics get very busy. Enjoy

This is primarily a bouldering area that lies in the Canyon to the East of Topanga Canyon Blvd (27). I understand there are some top rope options in the area too. This area is described very well in Craig Fry's Southern California Bouldering Guide (2nd edition).

Volcanic Sandstone infused with Quartz. Some problems date back to The 1970’s. The style is technical/powerful mostly over large bulges. Landings are generally very flat and the forest stays quite shaded and cool even in summer, all under 15mins hike from the Carpark.

Great selection of both technical and overhanging problems on Dakota sandstone very close to town.

Very crisp gneiss rock, much of the lower cliff is vertical to overhanging. Main bluff gets morning sun, afternoon shade. River is nearby for a swim after.

Great climbing area with easy access and beautiful surroundings. Not very busy but a little far from most of civilization (3 hours from Toronto).

Mt. Habrich is a granite horn east of Squamish. Despite a fairly lengthy approach, some routes on Mt. Habrich are quite popular with with multiple parties not uncommon on summer weekends. The rock is well featured and generally very good quality, and the views are spectacular both on route and from the summit.

Joe's Valley style boulders, but very few of them

In theory there are three boulders here. In reality, there is one actual boulder and two tiny chest height boulders. You'll have more fun if you stick to the big one. Grippy, coarse granite and dries very fast. Most of the business is at the bottom, with easy top-outs. The tree on the north face is now gone. The Big Boulder: The side facing the road has harder problems, while the side facing into the forest has easier problems. Downclimb to descend.