Train in vain – 5.12a


18m / 60ft, 9 bolts

Description:

One of the first 5.12s on the escarpment, and one of the first to be developed top-down. Originally a mixed bag of pins, bolts and gear, this visionary line has completed its multi-staged evolution from Mid-Atlantic testpiece to modern sport route. In 2016, it has finally been bolted to the groun by way of it's original start (instead of climbing the 5.8 corner to the left that many people have adopted as the start)

Clip glue-ins up 5.9 slabiness to a small ledge below the difficulties. Power through the crux roof and try and keep it together for the send.

Over the years, climbers trying to avoid the gear start would do all sorts of trickery including traversing in from Young At Heart(Forever Young). Don't be surprised if people still tell you its a fun way to start the route.

FA: Dave Georger, David Smart
FFA: David Smart (1985)

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12a
    2023-09-05
    3rd go, 40degree heat and humidity send, let's goo
  • 5.12a
    2023-09-02
    Fun climbing, first-go Ontario for a change
  • 5.12a
    2023-04-19
    Tricky crux
  • 5.12a
    2022-10-29
    I only tried this one time, over a year ago. I feel like that should really be a flash 🤔
  • 5.12a
    2022-07-01