Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_victor_rrock.html How to get there Coming from Revelstoke: Drive along the Trans Canada highway (Hwy1) towards west (Vancouver). Once you crossed the Columbia River Bridge and reached the turnoff for Hwy 23 S (traffic light), start counting the kilometers as you keep driving west along Hwy 1. At km 13.8 you come to a paved truck pullout, directly in between the highway and Victor Lake (second lake west of Revelstoke). This is a good place to park your car. Please do not park at the gravel pullout 280 meters east, dangerous for oncoming fast moving traffic. Coming from Vernon, Kamloops or Sicamous: Drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards east (Calgary). Once you are past the prominent red hotel at Three Valley Gap, keep driving towards east for another few kilometers. This will bring you across a bridge and further to the Victor Lake (third lake east of Sicamous). Park at the prominent paved truck pullout. Approach From the paved truck pullout in between the highway and Victor Lake walk for 280 meters along Hwy 1 towards east. This brings you to a gravel pullout (don’t park your car there). Cross the highway to its north side (caution fast driving cars and trucks). There walk along an overgrown road for approximately 80 meters towards east (historical wagon road from Sicamous to Revelstoke). From this point, walk up the steep trail to the base of the Victor Lake Wall. For the routes "Return of the Osprey", "Trans Canada" and "Pan America" branch off to the right shortly prior the actual wall (sign). For all other routes keep following the main trail aiming straight up and slightly climber left. 15 minutes from the highway. Descent for all Victor Lake Wall Routes From the top of the Victor Lake Wall walk down the marked trail towards west and eventually in south direction. This brings you within 30 to 35 minutes back to your car at the Victor Lake and the Trans Canada Highway. Just as on the Squamish Grand Wall or any route on Yamnuska, bring a super light pack and light approach shoes, climb one of the many grand routes and after the climb enjoy the quick walk down back to the highway. The Goat Ledge The Goat Ledge is the prominent large ledge separating the entire upper wall from the lower wall. The Victor Ledge allows climbers to bail from any route as you walk towards west, along this large ledge to the Ninth Symphony / The Mission. After you arrive at the fourth belay anchor of The Mission, rappel straight down the lower part of the Ninth Symphony and the Baldwin Start. (35m, 30m, 28m, 28m). In between Return of the Osprey and Restless Spirits is a fixed rope.

From Canmore, take the Three Sisters Parkway up past the Nordic Centre to Whitemans Pond. Continue along the gravel road (Smith Dorrien Trail) to the beginning of the Spray Lakes Reservoir. Turn right following signs to West Spray Lakes Campground, continuing to follow the road as it bends left farther into the campground. After 1.5km there will be a large grassy pullout on your right with a sign “Trailhead Parking”, park here. There are two spots to begin hiking. The first can be accessed through the “Trailhead” parking lot by taking the obvious trail leading from it. The second is accessed by walking farther down the gravel road until you see a “no parking” sign on a gate. Follow the trail behind the gate. This is the faster route and will skip a steep hill. The trail winds through the forest following a creek for most of the hike. After approximately 2.5km you enter a rocky clearing with a waterfall on your right and the boulders easily visible to the left. Take the last small section of trail through the band of trees to access the boulders. A trail continues up and right of the boulder field; it leads up to the old goat glacier. Hikers frequent the area to view Old Goat Glacier up in the higher valley.ogistics The total hike time is around 30min. With 200m elevation gain over the 2.5km it makes for an easy hike. Three good sized pads and a decent spotter will let you climb almost all of the problems. More pads will be a necessity on some problems, while very few require less than three. Almost all of the boulders face north, and hardly ever come into sun. Most of the slab climbs get morning sun, and the entire valley becomes shaded around 4-6 PM. Once past the upper Grassi Lakes parking lot, cell reception is lost. So keep this in mind when planning your day. **Please note the campground is closed from mid-September to mid-May** **The hike will be 1.5km or about 20min longer during these times.**

Just around the great roof of Skyman and Redneck Rampage, the Hillbilly Haven zone ends with the far right line of the 5 bolt Moustache Stampede 5.11a and it's rightmost extension Bucktooth (13 bolts) 5.12b. To the right of Moustache Stampede, you'll see three distinct bolt lines, with Bromance on the left side of the dihedral crack feature. The Reach Around and Bent over the Barrel share the same first bolt. These three climbs comprise all of Broke Back Alley.

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_waterworld_rrock.html Waterworld---- 11.9 km N from mica creek turnoff in Revelstoke Waterworld is a unique and exciting place to climb, all climbs start right out of the deep waters of the Revelstoke Lake. An adventurous style of climbing on steep enjoyable cliffs. All three cliffs face west and have a total height of up to 90 meters. The Waterworld has three large cliffs, Gilligans Island, Voyage Cliff and Gangplank. All three cliffs are accessible from Hwy 23 North with a short walk and several rappels, or for the more adventurous climbers, a canoe paddle up the scenic lake to the start of the steep climbs. Climbing at Waterworld is definitely more serious then on shorter crags such as Begbie Bluffs or Shaketown. Once you have rappelled you are committed and have to be able to climb at least the easiest route on the crag to make it back up... unless you plan to hitch a ride with an occasional fishing-boat. Further, good rope handling and rappelling skills are important to safely climb at Waterworld.

Three Valley Gap Climbing at Three Valley Gap has been for many years a well-liked destination for ice climbing. This narrow and steep valley with the deep lake, taking up the entire valley floor, the Trans Canada Highway jammed tight against vertical cliffs on one side of the valley and the tracks of the CP Rail on the other side, turns this site into an absolutely spectacular area. Then there is the Three Valley Gap Hotel, which sits on the eastern shoreline of the deep blue lake and takes up the entire valley from one side of the valley to the other; it sits there like a castle, ruling over the entire area. Rock climbing on the Tourist Wall offers not just superb climbing of moderate difficult, but also provides an incredible top view of this beautiful valley.

The two cliffs at Beacon Heights (Phase I and Phase II) are located up above the left side of the Main Crag. To access this area, first make your way to the main crag before entering the forest using the hiking path on the far left side. Go past the unofficial latrine (Main Wall Left) further to the point just before the path curves left (if you see a large rock face on the right of the trail you've gone too far). From here take a sharp right and up the steep bouldery hill and follow the faint track, using the fixed ropes when available. Go left and you’ll get out of the forest onto a sandy slope with views of the city, and Phase I will be in front of you. It shouldn’t be more than 10 minutes from Beacon Main to here. Right before entering Phase I, look uphill and to your right and you’ll notice a series of steps carved into the soil, and the first of another series of fixed ropes to reach Phase II. It should be around 5 minutes from Phase I.

Was once a quite and secluded area from the main populace where you could find quiet and not many climbers ... ... Chippewa Creek Gorge was formed by glacier movements thousands of years ago. These glaciers exposed outcrops of Shale, Berea Sandstone, and Euclid Bluestone. In the late 1800s the Berea Sandstone and the Euclid Bluestone were quarried for use as building materials. This ended in the early 20th century due to a decreased demand for natural stone for construction. Brecksville Reservation was declared a public park soon after. In the late 1990s the first information about climbing in the park was posted to another rock climbing website. Problems were put up and documented by that generation of climbers, but not everything was posted back then, and the website ended up becoming defunct. Legal access to the park for climbing was problematic. There was a high risk of getting your gear confiscated by park rangers. Around this time, Jeffery Bonatti created a series of hand drawn “Ruff Guides” for the park, but they weren’t highly accessible. Due to this lack of organized information, each subsequent generation of climbers claimed FAs and gave names to lines that have likely been claimed and named multiple times before throughout the years. To add to this, the moss and lichen covers boulders that don’t see much traffic and makes it look like they’ve never been touched. The creek changes the sand bars and covers or reveals footholds and washes away evidence of being climbed. Currently, the park is more accessible and more developed for climbing than recent history. There is a trail being made by the park system going from the main Gorge Rim trail down to the creek where Pinch Arete and Keyhole are. Due to the volume of climbers that have been recreating in the park, it no longer feels sketchy to walk in with pads for a session due to power of the masses. On any pleasant day you can fully expect to see other people climbing. Work is being done to organize the lines into a definitive list with proper photos, names, locations, and grades. On the topic of conditions, many problems have had holds broken off in recent years due to being climbed when the rock is still wet. The boulders in the creek itself are much more tolerant to this due to many years of water erosion, but the rock higher up on the cliff line isn’t used to this kind of stress and breaks surprisingly easy. Surprising like, wow I’m falling but the hold is still in my hands, surprising. It usually takes a solid three days of dryness and wind to get back into shape after a good, longer in the spring and winter. The main parking area for climbing access is the Pavilion area at the East end of Chippewa Creek Drive. It isn’t the first lot by the waterfall, it is ~1000ft down the road, where there are four parking areas grouped together with a swing set and a pavilion. If you walk straight North from the swing set you'll find the chained entrance to the climbing trail with a sign that states “Stay on the designated trail.” Stay on designated trails. Check out climbchippewa.com for more assistance and this WIP map of problems/info/location ----> https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1n3KipMBR1zOSon5n8RcScCqQkjStPMV7&ll=41.31983427452158%2C-81.6170396062424&z=17

A gold and blue streaked wall at the very back of Grotto Canyon. Approximately 50min approach with a few shorter, highly textured routes unlike anything in the rest of Grotto Canyon. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tN5znTiNjbOg61cdyV6boicnT0zkVpvQ/view?usp=drivesdk

Niagara Glen is the largest developed bouldering area in Southern Ontario. While it's just a few miles from the touristy chaos that is Niagara Falls, it's a world apart. Hundreds of boulders lie clustered between the cliff and river in a serene setting. With over seven hundred established problems, ranging from easy to V ridiculously hard, the Glen will have you coming back again and again. The Glen offers a mix of pocketed overhangs, thin crimpy faces and slopey sandstone. The rock quality and landings vary greatly throughout. The area has been climbed for decades and unfortunately the dolomite polishes easily, so many of the classics will feel nearly frictionless. See [Niagara Glen Climbing](https://niagaraglenclimbing.ca) for more info, particularly for those looking to make their first visit or still relatively unfamiliar with the glen. It is recommended to purchase the [Niagara Glen Bouldering Guidebook](https://www.mec.ca/en/product/6002-426/Ontario-Bouldering-the-Niagara-Glen) for the easiest navigation around the crag, as the free topos can be quite confusing if it is your first time out. Free online guide: http://www.topout.org/static/pdf/NiagaraGlen.pdf Conditions Reports: https://www.facebook.com/groups/181846299284018/ ACCESS NOTES: Permits are mandatory. Park staff are monitoring daily. Limit your group size & keep your belongings neatly collected to minimize impact on areas surrounding boulders. Stay on trail - no shortcuts, please!

For free topos, photos, and all the info you need, visit www.revelstokebouldering.ca The boulders are found West of Revelstoke on the EAGLE PASS FSR (forest service road) off of the trans-canada HWY # 1. From the main intersection accessing Revelstoke (Victoria/Laforme and HWY 1) you must head West towards Kamloops on the HWY. You will cross the mighty Columbia River and reach the intersection for HWY 23 South/Westsyde RD. (also a set of lights) - this is where you restart your odometer!! Continue past the intersection for 7 km's and until you have JUST passed the second set of passing-lanes from town. Use the shoulder of the HWY to slow down and turn RIGHT onto Eagle Pass FSR. *If the road dead-ends in 100 metres, you've turned on the wrong road and turned too early!* The Eagle Pass road will perform switch-back immediately and climb up the slopes. Once you have gone 700 metres and you have crossed a dry creek (if your lucky) you will have reached an area to park at the edge of the Cut-block on the left. Pull-over and Park. From parking you will continue up the FSR 20 metres to the P-Boulder and trail-head marked with Cairns on the right side and upwards on the mountain-slope. Note: FSR 20 has been refurbished. You can park at the apex of the first switchback and walk along the gravel road for about 500m before it turns to a faint trail that leads you to the Warmups Area. Note: Bring a large brush and bring your friends to this area, with some love it can be a great bouldering spot!

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

Approach: From the Shapeshifter Boulder get back on the main trail until you reach a large, gravel trail. The path on the right will go downhill, going left will go uphill. Go left and uphill. You will see a municipal sign. Turn right at the sign. Take the next bike trail on the left and head uphill (there is a more direct trail behind the municipal sign but this trail has been closed by the park). Bank back towards the left. After 5 minutes of hiking you should see this isolated boulder. NOTE: This is a difficult one to find. If you find the Kamigoye Boulder, it is almost easier to back track. The boulder faces downhill.

Overall this cliff is a newer moderate warm-up venue for climbers going to the Moose Mountain Crags. The Beach Front Buttress was fully developed in the spring of 2019. Until recently it was the first climbable cliff encountered on the way into the area. There are thirteen routes on this sunny south facing aspect. The crag is tucked in behind a treed shoulder with generally good sun exposure and it’s out of the wind for the most part. Overall it hosts moderate climbing (ten routes are in the 5.10 range or less) making for an ideal stop to warm up on before heading up valley to try some of the harder fare on offer. This small crag provides a pleasant venue to spend the day doing low intensity moderate cragging. The only drawback to these fun routes is the overall height of the cliff at around 20m or less, it simply leaves climbers wanting more. In spring/late winter this small buttress catches the sun roughly an hour before the Moose Patch sector located another 5 minutes up the road. Stopping off here allows climbers to start their day bit sooner. This crag is usually out of the wind and a sun trap making it ideal for late winter and early spring rock climbing and fighting with marginal temperatures. Named after the unusual sand beach found below the cliff on the northern flank of Canyon Creek. The venue makes for a very fun hang. The creekbed was dry during the three weeks of development in March and early April of 2019. However, later in the year be aware that water levels can change rapidly and crag access may require proceeding upstream crossing over the bridge and then working back along the north bank of Canyon Creek during spring runoff or following heavy rains from intense summer thunder storms. All climbs on this crag are well protected, most require six or seven draws plus clips for the anchor. All top anchors are from two staggered ring-bolts. Note: There are some very low first bolts on some routes along with a couple, two-bolt base anchors detailed on the photo-topo. These low height bolts are intended for base anchors to back up tied off trees to allow lead rope soloing on these climbs. Please do not remove these lower hangers. Feel free to clip these bolts while leading or ignore them. Please don’t remove or vandalize this low hanging hardware.

This three-sided crag sits on the ridgecrest that seperates the Screeching Wall conyon from Muscle Beach. The position is pleasant and the out-of-the-way nature helps thin crowds, but there's not a very high concentration of pitches here in any specific genre. A couple of moderate cracks are worthy, but the best reason to trudge up to this spot is the small batch of technical 5.0-5.11 sport climbs on the south and east faces. If you send them all, have a go at the crag's crimpy testpiece, 'Peaches' (5.12a). Conditions: This crag has three different aspects - east, south and west - so you can find sun or shade at any time of the day. There's not much in the way of belay shade at any of the three walls.

Approach: This massive face is also directly adjacent to the same wetland as the Turkey Drop V7 Boulder however, the underbrush is so thick you may want to back track and get on top of the ridge. Hike back towards and past Turkey Drop V7 below you on your left. Continue on the side slope until you reach the next outcrop (approx. 50 to 70 m as the crow flies from the previous boulder).

a steep but short cliff North of the crag next door. Offers hard sport, Trad and Dry tooling Routs. as well as many easy short beginner trad routs

Great White is a large west-facing cliff band located in Sunny Valley. This is a must visit when in Skaha. The sun rolls around and starts baking the cliffs between 1:30-2:30 in midsummer, allowing 3 seasons of sending. HHH and the intro walls feature some pleasant routes at a variety of grades. Painted Bird is the pick of the crop on this right side. Raven`s nest, despite some of it`s routes being less traveled is more than worthy of a sampling. Make sure to climb the mega classic Test of The Ironman. Teen wall is a huge 40 meter wall with some inspiring endurance routes. A short, angled slab at the base of the wall is the only drawback. If you are not too much of a purist and chipped holds don`t trigger you, make sure to check out the sustained and epic Air Test. In fact, almost every route one this wall has a healthy smattering of glue, enhancements, and manufactured pockets. If you put it in the back of your mind, the climbing offers awesome movement and lot of rock. Wings Wall is a beautiful streaked wall with a lot offer. Wings of Desire is a mandatory tick, with a hotly debated grade. Throw your vote in the hat whether it`s an 11b or 11c! It`s neighbors are some of the best 12+`s in all of Skaha. Despite being slightly overhung, don`t expect a techy cake-walk. Most have some powerful cruxes on nicely featured stone.

Looking for steep rock to climb? This is the place to go. The routes here are sure to give your arms and back a workout. Just be prepared to spend your day out here.

Muscle Beach was created mostly in part by Cody Leyden, who is a prolific bolter in the region. "MB" as it is affectionately known as is as steep as is gets in Skaha. This crag has two tiers of wall the lower and the upper. The lower has moderate vertical climbs much like limestone in style. While the upper has short but incredibly power routes that take angular holds through roofs. Most of the routes are fixed, but bring draws and your biceps. Guidebook Description: For Thuggy, overhanging sport climbing, MB is hard to beat. The large roof that slices through the blocky overhangs on the upper wall produces routes that are both bouldery and very pumpy. The climbing here is reminiscent of Rifle, Colorado, and many routes have a three-dimensional feel that benefits from knee-bar trickery. The lower wall is home to a worthwhile collection of 5.11's, but the upper wall is where the action is at, and for this, you'll need to climb at least 5.12-. Bring your guns.

Muscle Beach was created mostly in part by Cody Leyden, who is a prolific bolter in the region. "MB" as it is affectionately known as is as steep as is gets in Skaha. This crag has two tiers of wall the lower and the upper. The lower has moderate vertical climbs much like limestone in style. While the upper has short but incredibly power routes that take angular holds through roofs. Most of the routes are fixed, but bring draws and your biceps. Guidebook Description: For Thuggy, overhanging sport climbing, MB is hard to beat. The large roof that slices through the blocky overhangs on the upper wall produces routes that are both bouldery and very pumpy. The climbing here is reminiscent of Rifle, Colorado, and many routes have a three-dimensional feel that benefits from knee-bar trickery. The lower wall is home to a worthwhile collection of 5.11's, but the upper wall is where the action is at, and for this, you'll need to climb at least 5.12-. Bring your guns.

*Grades seem to be rough suggestions and tend to be soft, give what you think is accurate.* Better than anticipated. Create your own boulders, but for some suggestions the following info was provided by the manufacturer/installer OnSite. Suggested grades from OnSite. Perched on square cut bases that provide board-style starting feet, the blocks are taller than they first appear and overhang slightly on all sides. All three rocks are different forms of granite. The North-most one is large-crystal white granite with slopers that will have people calculating sun angles and wind speeds to figure out the best time for sending (just like the real Squam!) The middle boulder reminds me of bow valley rock with pockets of all sizes and blocky features for compressing. The south boulder climbs like Kelowna Gneiss with it's skin friendly and in cut crimps leading to a sharp rail perfect for Dyno variations and the accompanying flapper potential. The physical closeness of all of these rock styles creates a very interesting comparison. To be able to feel the difference in style that the rock textures induce, and go between them while the sensation is still fresh in your fingers is extremely cool.

This is the first wall encountered as you enter Grassi Lakes. It can be identified by a long set of stairs and wooden steps at the base of the wall. The Ghetto features some steep, pocketed routes between 5.11b and 5.12a.

Sectors 2 and 3 are so close together that they really make up one larger sector. Sector 3 is on the left of Sector 2, with the left-most routes of Sector 3 only accessible by climbing the metal via ferrata steps on a large boulder. Sector 3 is in the sun all morning and gets shade by early to mid-afternoon.

This spectacular lookout trail above the West Arm of Kootenay Lake looking over the city of Nelson is one of the finest hiking spots in the area. With a huge amount of volunteer effort from several locals, it certainey is a work of art. As you clamber up the thousands of rock steps, it will surely give you a sense of how much work was required to bring this trail to its current state. Now, combine this awesome hiking trail with a fantastic Granite Sport Climb and you have an adventure in the making! Although only one route exists, its exposed position over the valley below, the quality of the climbing and the beautiful rock, make for a very fine outing. You are literally belaying and climbing with 500 ft. of air below you and the moves on the route are sure to give you a rush! The climb itself faces south, dries quickly due to the exposed nature of the rock, always seems to have a breeze and goes into the shade late afternoon (making it perfect in the warmer months for an after work session). Besides a rack of draws and a 60m rope, you will want to bring a helmet and a sling of sorts to anchor yourself while belaying. Make sure you look for the amazing “best seat in the house” rock at the base which offers a fine (and comfortable) seat overlooking the lake (and a good place to gear up).

[Area guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk) • Step 1. Getting to the Hartland landfill When leaving Victoria head toward the ferries. Before you head up the last hill out of town there is the Royal Oak exit. Take this exit and then turn left and cross the bridge over the highway. After crossing the bridge you will hit your first set of lights. Go straight through this intersection and then take a right at the next lights. The road you will be turning onto will be West Saanich road. Follow this road for quite a while until you seen Hartland road on your left. Turn onto this road and follow it until just before you head into the dump. There is a big parking lot at to the right off the road. Pull in there and park. • Step 2. Getting to the boulders Once parked, follow the mountain bike trail to the left of the road. You will follow the fence for a while and then pass the skills area. Next you will head downward and cross a creek and then climb a small hill. At the top of the hill you'll want to take a left onto one of the bike trails. Follow this trail for about 7 minutes until you hit one of the small clearings. There should be a big piece of scrap metal beside the start of the trail. Take this trail down the hill. This trail will join up with another trail. When this happens, go right. Follow this trail for about 10 minutes along the lake. After passing the lake you should start to see the start of the bouldering area off to your left. Keep heading down the trail, always keeping to the left. After crossing a couple logs the trails will take a sharp turn to the left and you should end up a the overhang wall.

*** these multi-pitch climbs are Mixed climbs of Sport AND Gear*** http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_colbuttress_rrock.html Approach to base of Columbia Buttress The Last Tango, The Noose and Eternity From the intersection Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 S drive for 3.1 km along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge and past the traffic light of Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South as far as the Canada West Campground. There is a small parking area on the north side of the highway. Park your car there. From the parking area walk 50 meters towards north to a Columbia Buttress sign. There leave the road to the left (west), follow the well marked approach trail to a narrow rock gully. Now walk for the final few minutes up this rock gully to the base of the climbs. All routes start at the same base bolt. 20 minutes from highway. Approach to top of Columbia Buttress The Hanging Judge and Convicted Drive: From Revelstoke drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge to the traffic light at Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South, 900 meters from western access to Revelstoke. From the Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South traffic light turn right and follow the Westside Road for 3.8 km. There turn left and drive along the Boulder Mountain Logging Road for 10.6 km (check topo). This brings you to a road pullout and a turn-off leading to the left. Park your car there. Trail: From the road pull-out and turnoff follow the narrow turn-off road leading to the left (south) for 400 meters, to a small parking area with a great view over Revelstoke and the Columbia Valley. From there walk along a well marked trail in southerly direction, downhill to the tree line. There keep following the trail downhill for 50 meters where you will find a cedar tree with two clothing hooks. Leave your pack there, as The Hanging Judge and Convicted are topping out at this point. Now keep descending the trail to the rappel route for The Hanging Judge and Convicted. 10 minutes from the parking area.

Directions: Walk along the Pleasant Trail until you reach the first of a series of clearings. Watch for signs of rock on your right. The first rock you see on your right will be Bachelor Pad. Once you’re in the forest off the Pleasant Trail the Tesla Boulder will be about 60 meters to your right, there should be a fairly obvious, though scrubby trail.

Mama and papa surrounding boulders. This area is basically the second area after entering from the east on your way to the headwall and K9 boulder

The majority of the climbing at the Giscome Boulders is in the 'Alley' area. It consists of four boulders making up the 'Alley' feature, and 3 more smaller boulders scattered around. The 'Front Alley Boulder' contains the Sun Roof feature, and is located at the front left. The 'Back Alley Boulder' is directly behind it, with the 'Teletubbie', 'Teva' and 'Pat' boulders on the right, named front to back.