The Spell – 5.12a
30m / 98ft, 10 bolts
Description:
This popular, pumpy pitch features sustained climbing on mostly positive holds. To start, climb the fixed traverse to the far left, back-cleaning as you go to reduce rope drag. Unless it's pouring, don't stop at the rain anchor! 10 bolts, excluding traverse (28m) FA: Dean Hart, 1996.
Show Beta
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Jennine L'Heureux: High right feet at the flake, high left foot before moving your left hand at the roof, key rest on left side pull and x'd pinch down low with good feet before doing the top juggy section just to reset your head game.
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JD: Left heel hook -
Dan Beland: Back-clean the fixed draws along the traverse to reduce drag and to free up the other routes. -
nikitataylor: Dont stop at crappy rainy day anchors. Still climbing to go!
Recent Sendage:
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Nice to send, punted on the 5.10 jugs near the second last bolt yesterday. Still a bit greasy climbing in the shade in the PM but better than August temps.
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Fantastic climb.
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2022-05-17
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Really enjoyable and felt very controlled -
Second try, Really good. Favorite on the wall so far. -
Amazing route. -
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Would hate to fall after the finger lock in the upper head wall -
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2021-08-21 -
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2021-06-15 -
Once upon a time back in 15' fell going between the two anchors. Amnesia Onsight -
Worst 12 on the wall -
Saved by a jam or two 😅 -
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Classic. Those side pulls at the beginning are just so perfect.
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Stopped at rain anchor first time up because I thought the climb ended... came back and did the full route next try.
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2020-10-10 -
Very fun, more sustained and full value than mega trip -
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Pump brain got me all tangled at the rainy day anchor for the onsight - second go to the top. Superb! -
2020-07-01Stopped at the rainy day anchors. -
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2020-05-14
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2020-05-01
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don't let the traverse deter you, the climbing above is stellar
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OS to the first set of anchors. One hang afterwards to the top cause I was so pumped. Gonna count it, but will have to come back and do it in better style.
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This climb polishes off all the 12- at doctor's for me! What a great way to end a solid summer. Great friends. Great Sends!
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2019-08-06Fun one -
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Holds felt so much better than I remembered from last year, yet I still got so pumped by the time I hit the monster holds up top. Definitely helped the end-of-day send to suddenly have people yelling "Venga!" lol
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A tad harder than Megatrip. solid at 12a. Kneebar rest in that jug at the little roof.
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Great route. Had to go full desperation to get past the last tough moves. The crux might actually be easier if you're shorter?
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2019-03-31 -
2019-03-31
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2018-10-22 -
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First 12 onsight? Sustained and fun with one definite crux.
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So. Damn. Beautiful. Jug tug with lots of beta. So satisfying. But watch the shin breaking roof. Slipped, bruise. Then re-bruised that bruise. -
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Flows real nice, no move is too much harder than the others.
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tried once last year, first try this year
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Little bit of everything -
2018-05-17Finally. -
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2nd go. Tremendous fun. -
Lowered off the first crux earlier this year. Flashed the majority of the climb this time around! Amazing
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2017-09-21
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2017-09-21First 12.a!! second go!
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Such a journey!
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Super fun movement! Quite a bit of traversing back and forth on this long route! 2 well defined crux sequences.
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2017-05-15
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spent too much time on this over the last year, but put it to sleep with an angering ease after all the effort
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2017-04-15Super fun route! Onsighted to the rainy day anchors. It did rain while I was climbing, but I actually just thought the route ended there;) I did finish the final five ten moves to the top. One too many anchors on the doctors wall, but the climbing is so fun!
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2016-09-06
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Good holds the whole way. Continous and pumpy. -
Have yet to find a climb in Skaha I didn't thoroughly enjoy. -
2016-05-27Second attempt send. Pumpy
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Really fun techy crux.
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No real stopper move but sustained technical climbing all the way up. Better than Dr. Megatrip IMO
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Second go. Pumpy! So much fun!!!
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Long.
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Magical! 3rd go. -
2016-03-31Finally!!! Only took me 2 years
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Fun! Pumped out on the onsight, 2nd go. -
Crux got me twice! -
Super cool flakes and bomber jugs. The pump gets really real, really quick. A must do if at the wall. -
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Second 5.12 of the trip. Starting to get better at sport climbing! Third go.
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Been terrified of the doctors wall - until now. This climb was fluid and nice. Much easier than Dr. Megatrip. Highly recommended. If I had more than 10 draws I would have gone to the top!
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2015-09-06
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Great movement ,great climb fun runout at the end
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Amazing -
Nice movement up an airy top -
2015-05-16
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On my "rest day"... whoops!
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2014-10-04Best line on doctors. Second try :)
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Great climb!
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Really good!
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2014-06-12 -
2014-05-25
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5.12aAnonymous User2014-05-23
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2014-04-20
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2013-07-17 -
2013-06-02Soft but classic. -
2nd go, fun run out top section.
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classic
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2012-09-02
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2012-06-03
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Third Go. Slippy feet.
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Not the best, but popular and steep and juggy.
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5.12aAnonymous User2011-10-12
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Great Route
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Maybe a bit easier for shorter people
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underclingalicious
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Rope PULLED from hand while clipping!(Eva!) -
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1996-06-02
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Full value to the top. Loved every part of this climb
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Look for the crimp on the face just below the crux...
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Nice holds , pumpy
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43
onsights7
flashes99
redpointsTotal Sends: 149
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