A beautiful and highly accessible sandstone crag only an hour north of Bogota. Lots of traditional climbing, a lot of mixed routes, and a few sport climbs. The sport climbs are generally poorly protected by modern standards and would likely feel better with a couple of pieces of gear. More often than not, without gear, a climber will be repetitively exposed to ground fall potential on a single sport climb. The sandstone is very hard and slick and cams can blow easily – the locals recommend hiring a guide for at least a day to out of towners to get the lay of the land. An old spanish guidebook is also available at the gear shop at the trailhead on weekends.

Niagara Glen is the largest developed bouldering area in Southern Ontario. While it's just a few miles from the touristy chaos that is Niagara Falls, it's a world apart. Hundreds of boulders lie clustered between the cliff and river in a serene setting. With over seven hundred established problems, ranging from easy to V ridiculously hard, the Glen will have you coming back again and again. The Glen offers a mix of pocketed overhangs, thin crimpy faces and slopey sandstone. The rock quality and landings vary greatly throughout. The area has been climbed for decades and unfortunately the dolomite polishes easily, so many of the classics will feel nearly frictionless. See [Niagara Glen Climbing](https://niagaraglenclimbing.ca) for more info, particularly for those looking to make their first visit or still relatively unfamiliar with the glen. It is recommended to purchase the [Niagara Glen Bouldering Guidebook](https://www.mec.ca/en/product/6002-426/Ontario-Bouldering-the-Niagara-Glen) for the easiest navigation around the crag, as the free topos can be quite confusing if it is your first time out. Free online guide: http://www.topout.org/static/pdf/NiagaraGlen.pdf Conditions Reports: https://www.facebook.com/groups/181846299284018/ ACCESS NOTES: Permits are mandatory. Park staff are monitoring daily. Limit your group size & keep your belongings neatly collected to minimize impact on areas surrounding boulders. Stay on trail - no shortcuts, please!

AKA porcupine boulders. One Photo topo on twenty seven crags dot com. Descriptions also on MTN Project

small crag of trad lines just north of red tail lower. Top-roping is the name of the game. 6-metre slab wall.

This east facing venue is one of the furthest sectors away from parking. However, it gets sun first thing in the morning and it is a great cliff for early starts on cooler mornings. It offers a good range of grades and wide variety of climbing techniques are encountered. This cliff line has a small developed lower wall with 5 moderate routes just as the trail leaves the creek drainage. A faint trail then heads uphill (climbers right) to the much taller and wider upper wall where you will find another 26 established routes. One of the older venues at Moose Mountain the sector witnessed some significant new route activity the past few years. With seven new routes found on the upper wall and five more on the previously undeveloped lower wall. All but one of these newer routes were established in the busy 2017 season. Most of the new lines are from Andy Genereux filling in the alphabet so too speak over some of the better rock available on the upper cliff line. With a fine grouping of moderate warm up pitches on the newly developed lower wall the attraction to come climbing here has improved substantially.

Dead Hawk Rake is the ramp that provides access to the routes on the Upper Red Tail. The sequence of routes on Lower Red Tail starts just downhill and right of this ramp and extend all the way across the crag to the diminutive Seven Dwarfs slab at the far right end.

Overall this cliff is a newer moderate warm-up venue for climbers going to the Moose Mountain Crags. The Beach Front Buttress was fully developed in the spring of 2019. Until recently it was the first climbable cliff encountered on the way into the area. There are thirteen routes on this sunny south facing aspect. The crag is tucked in behind a treed shoulder with generally good sun exposure and it’s out of the wind for the most part. Overall it hosts moderate climbing (ten routes are in the 5.10 range or less) making for an ideal stop to warm up on before heading up valley to try some of the harder fare on offer. This small crag provides a pleasant venue to spend the day doing low intensity moderate cragging. The only drawback to these fun routes is the overall height of the cliff at around 20m or less, it simply leaves climbers wanting more. In spring/late winter this small buttress catches the sun roughly an hour before the Moose Patch sector located another 5 minutes up the road. Stopping off here allows climbers to start their day bit sooner. This crag is usually out of the wind and a sun trap making it ideal for late winter and early spring rock climbing and fighting with marginal temperatures. Named after the unusual sand beach found below the cliff on the northern flank of Canyon Creek. The venue makes for a very fun hang. The creekbed was dry during the three weeks of development in March and early April of 2019. However, later in the year be aware that water levels can change rapidly and crag access may require proceeding upstream crossing over the bridge and then working back along the north bank of Canyon Creek during spring runoff or following heavy rains from intense summer thunder storms. All climbs on this crag are well protected, most require six or seven draws plus clips for the anchor. All top anchors are from two staggered ring-bolts. Note: There are some very low first bolts on some routes along with a couple, two-bolt base anchors detailed on the photo-topo. These low height bolts are intended for base anchors to back up tied off trees to allow lead rope soloing on these climbs. Please do not remove these lower hangers. Feel free to clip these bolts while leading or ignore them. Please don’t remove or vandalize this low hanging hardware.

This awesome smaller, steeper, venue is found at the eastern terminus of the Ostraland cliff line 30m right (west) of The Far Right sector of the Painted Wall. The cliff had only one completed route until the fall of 2022 and housed another of Larry Ostrander’s recently rediscovered old shunt/top rope projects. The first lead climb at this sector was called Welcome to the Dark Side. It was the last route established during the busy development season of 2020 on the shady side of the Moose Mountain Crags and was included in the recent Bow Valley Sport guide out in 2021. Late in the fall of 2022 Ross Suchy added two new 30 lines. One called Let There Be Light, a redevelopment of a lost Larry Ostrander shunt problem. Inspired by this new interest in the cliff. Andy Genereux with an intense two week effort added another seven new lines left of his original climb Welcome to the Dark Side in the late spring of 2023. This cliff features, steepish climbing overall, with most routes having defined crux sections of shorter duration. Simply a very fun place to climb..! Another bonus is all the routes generally stay dry during the rain giving it another great feature besides the all day shade this wall provides.

This small sector has nine shorter bolted routes (initially mostly 5.10), located roughly 200m west (left) of the climb Larry’s Groove (for now the left most completed route found at the Dust Bowl). This little venue houses over a half dozen fun warm-up lines and two, 5.11’s, with short cruxy bits to keep it interesting. The first two routes were established over 16 years ago by Andy Genereux and Richard Melville during a one-day effort. In the spring of 2024, Andy returned building seven more routes, giving this venue a bit more appeal. The west facing cliff further west seem to hold significant potential for some more moderate entry level climbs in the sun to be established, maybe adding some much needed lower-end diversity to the mostly harder fare found in the Dust Bowl. Moose Cove is located just a few minutes westward along this southwest facing wall from the Dust Bowl.