Show Beta
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Dan Beland: Left hand to jug -
wongjonsilver: Heel on the shelf to get high crimp edge. Cross right hand into the left side of the rail.
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Jonathan Tsay: Right to pocket, work the heel, left hand on the concave crimp, right to convex crimp and bump till you get to the top!
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Samantha Li: Post your left foot!
Recent Sendage:
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Good bloc had a lot of fun -
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2023-09-03Spinning 🚁
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It hurts but it's good! Struggled more on Swank Stretch than this but I suck at open-hand crimping so just ignore me -
*poker face*
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Sickening pure and obvious line if you can ignore the pains factor. I thought my fingers would be too obese for the cream but managed to squeeze it first go from the start after sussing crux. Went left hand to jug. 4 stars -
1st session. Fat fingers don't crimp well but they do shove into a sharp pocket alright
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Felt like I had to do this one just do it. Sick move but that pocket sucks. Felt more like low end 10 than 9.
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2022-10-03 -
Only took me 15 years to resend that beauty. One of my top 3 nemesis. -
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Not bad when you decide to commit.
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2022-05-20Tried breifly last summer. Third go today -
Felt v10 for me
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Aesthetic with Unique moves and holds on this one. Was a little damp but made it work :). Classic! O... and another 9/10 :P . I'll have to come back and do some 'proper' 10s to get a feel for things. -
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Ouchy. Did it the “small fingers” way. Didn’t feel too bad in the end. -
Vpain -
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Didn't really need feeling in my left index anyway. Pretty soft.
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Felt impossible until I decided to hold the holds.
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Ow
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An aesthetic line that I have tried on and off casually while walking past and would only give myself two or three goes to save my skin. Got it on go 2 of 3 today! Glad that sam sent as well!
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My life would've been so much easier had I gotten used to dynamic movement... Also did very atypical beta sequence, but it's what was necessary! -
Ouch -
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2020-09-04
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Ouch
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2020-08-28Left index finger was nice and tender from the pocket seam. Fun climb, albeit a little desperate. -
surprisingly some nuance to laybacking those crimps and lunging for the jug. -
Gimme the crimps -
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If Friday the 13th was a boulder this would be it -
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2019-11-22V10 in pain alone -
I like it a decent amount -
Single session on a double double day. Surely soft, but those crimps are very small -
One move, probably soft with small hands ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Yeah, second go today! Felt good to go left hand static.
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Biffed it first go, kind of surprised myself. Got it second go. -
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V10 club babyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy. -
2019-03-09The best part about doing this boulder? Not having to do this boulder again. -
Took me forever to get the right body position to send! Topout was spooky
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2018-11-13flash -
Tough one mover after the crimps (not so bad). Solid one for me, took me 4 sessions to finish this sucker. Went back and forth between all different beta.
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I have fat fingers and this still felt easy for the grade. Right hand to the pocket, left bump through the sloper. Second go, maybe V9? -
Used "tall man" beta, definitely feels soft if you're able to keep left hand in pocket and bump right hand to the jug. A lot closer than it looks.
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Okay climb if you have small fingers, likely harder if you can't quite get enough purchase on the holds -
2018-09-01Surprised myself with the send! A super fun and crimpy line!
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2018-08-26hardest flash and first double digit? #FirstOnesFree https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLyfA9-tcdQ
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2018-08-26
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2nd real session a year later. Woke up early to catch good temps...went pretty quickly with minimal warm up. Right foot heel against the corner of the rail and lieback. Thanks for the beta anita!
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From the under cling. Surprisingly fun considering I always thought it looked like a sharp pile of doo doo.
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First V10! Fight through the finger pain and get to that bomber jug. -
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Jam as much finger meat as you can into those crimps!
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2017-08-06
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2nd try, sharp but beautiful, psched! Came back to this years later (Sept 24 2022) to repeat it from the undercling. Some old school locals told me it was the OG way so I’m happy to have given this climb the full treatment and sent it properly. Felt slightly more appropriate for the grade but still soft -
2017-06-11
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First v10, so stoked!
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Ouch my fingers. Did it first try with the not dumb beta.
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2016-09-10My first V10! Very crimpy!
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2016-09-07Taxes the fingertips..
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Easier if you like/ are good at crimps and tall
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2016-08-04 -
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First try of the day! Right bump again to the jug
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2016-07-03
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Uhhh fingers! First V10 -
2016-04-26First day back in Canada, climbing with some cool cats. My digits hurt
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Really sharp and thought it wasn't worth the time at first. Turned out to be pretty decent in the end. -
2014-09-15Ten in the book, which i would agree with, if your tall or have little digits this would be a 9.
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2012-10-07
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V10 ↓Anonymous User2010-08-24
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Sharp, but excellent. Weird boulder: Always just one cold go per day and then it feels impossible!
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Crimpy! V9/10 -
ARRRGGGG SO CLOSE!!!
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2003-07-08sharp. -
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V10Anonymous User
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hips and fingers
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Love crimps
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Just crimp harder
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0
onsights9
flashes106
redpointsTotal Sends: 115
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