Description:

The left hand of the 2 routes that share a common start left of Flesh Gordon. Rope drag can be an issue. I recommend long draws (25 cm dog bones), and at least 3 alpine extendables. When I climb it I extend: the first bolt on the slab after the glue-ins, the first bolt of the headwall above, and the first bolt on the ledge above. I skip two bolts, one at the top of the lower slab and one on the low angle terrain exiting the first headwall. Back clean the second (and, if you can the third) bolt of the headwall above the slab, and backclean the bolt below the lip of the little overhang out left after the first headwall. There is now one more bolt than in Bow Valley Rock 2nd ed. but I skip 2 of them to lower the rope drag. An 80 m gets you down to the belay spot. You can get down to the starting easy ramp with a 70m without using the intermediate station if your belayer also walks up the ramp. Tie a knot!