So psyched! Was able to do this in one session today after totally getting me butt kicked on it on the last trip. Started from the “new” start as it made it more fun. Low end for V9 for sure. Fun movement!
Shoulda flashed, but the heel beta doesn't work for me, so did it second go. Really fun climbing, and I'm glad we all agree we deserve a full 10 points for this one and not 8. Started lower than most videos I've seen.
I almost didn't log this as I started from the "new start" that everyone seems to use these days - on the left slot edge and right 3 dimples. Sure, it's a better line from here, but this is not the real start and I didn't want to cheat myself calling it V10 from here. A couple big moves on big holds to a V7 finish doesn't make it V10. Might even be hard V8 from this start. Good riddance! :p Consolation prize as I got tired of shredding my tips on the original start holds (right hand gaston and left hand crimp BELOW the 'new' start).
Did this first try. Did the Stand Up first. Also, we're not sure of the proper line for this problem. The most obvious logical line is to start on the crimps then move into the horizontal slot and finish on the starfish. That was the way I did it. Felt soft V10 or even V9. Someone enlighten me with the correct way to do this problem if I did it wrong!
amazing quality rock!. Started from the high left hand pinch and right hand shallow pocket. maybe it is soft v10 from the 2 low sharp crimps? i feel like most people start from the high left hand pinch