Nurse Minitweak – 5.12b ↓
30m / 98ft, 8 bolts
Description:
Small sharp crimps are the meat and potatoes of this route. Reminiscent of a smaller, sharper version of Building a Mystery, this route is the result of a midway station of the full line, Doctor Megatweak. Not as full value as The Spell or Salvation however not to be missed.
Start 'Doctor Megatrip,' but head right after the second bolt. Thoughtful, crimpy moves lead to a balancey crux. 8 bolts, excluding traverse (21m) FA: Todd Guy, 1999.
Show Beta
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jah4pwr: hold on tight -
Jennine L'Heureux: High right foot is key in middle crux. Clip from the jug up and left from the anchor.
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nikitataylor: Don't do it in the rain!
Recent Sendage:
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This was so good! -
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Very cool sequence up high, happy to tick this one early season -
Man before me screamed so hard he fell. I think the new beta is to just hold it in and let it out as a turbo toot at the crimps.
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Had mom cheering me on
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Happy to have done this 2nd try after a warm up attempt to see the holds -
We had a boat load of bougie cheese and crackers that fuelled me up for the send!
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Good day trying to get stoked with Julie in hurricane force winds. The anchor is placed off route IMO and takes away from the climb. Great crimping otherwise. -
Crumps -
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2022-07-15fantastic route. Technical moves on crimps
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Just barley held on… so good!! -
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really fun climbing -
Tried once at the end of last season. Sent today as my warm up. Stoked! -
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Crispy conditions. Thanks Nick for the beta, belay, and draws :D -
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That’s a demanding anchor clip! Lovely crimpfest though. -
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2021-10-06 -
2021-09-22
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2021-09-14
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Second go. Got close on the flash but blew a foot
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2021-08-21 -
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Considering it was 30 C it felt really nice and the flow was good -
3rd try, happy that I got to use a heel hook down low and a toe hook up top. -
2021-04-23 -
Segundo intento
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just what the doctor ordered. -
2021-03-28Second go. Thanks for a good day with positive vibes. Breathe. Conscious climbers draw fixings. With Pat ! It didn't even rain.
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2020-11-02 -
Slipped off just after the crux. 2nd go
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Great route!! Had to try way harder than Expected for the send
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First 12b onsight :) -
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yehaw
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Cruised it today after falling while clipping on my second try. Sent it officially on third burn. First 12b!!
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Second burn send. Nearly punted clipping the chains. -
2019-04-28 -
2nd try!
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So fun! Techy with good crimps.
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2019-03-18 -
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Enjoyed!
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2018-05-12Yeah birthday send! This is a great route! Some fabulous moves through the crux bit. I should have just worked the full original line to the top of the cliff. The lower Minitweak section chains are an a silly spot and it's only two more bolts to the top. Next time!
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2018-03-17 -
Crimpy fun
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A great line! Similar to building a mystery. -
Very good!
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First of the grade! Would be nicer without the traverse at the beginning.
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All doctors climbs are excelent . This one is no exception. 2nd go
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My end of the day project at Doctors. Really good technical movement on crimps and sidepulls. Some of the holds are getting a little polished. 4th go. -
Note to self: Do this route again. And again. And again. -
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First time skipping a bolt for the send, took a few extra goes to mentally get through that. -
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2016-03-25 -
Love Doctors Wall. Everything on here is great! -
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The crux is the best part -
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First day back climbing after a few months off, good to see I can still climb.
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Tried this last year and got super psyched. Stoked to send fairly quickly this year.
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Super fun -- I love everything at Doctors! 2nd try. -
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2014-06-12 -
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Yay! In the rain!
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Second go -
Solid and fun. Great little boulder problem at the top for the full value. -
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2012-10-19
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Slipped off clipping the anchors on my onsite attempt. Went up to the jug the second time to clip the anchors and get the send.
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5.12bAnonymous User2011-10-12
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Great route 3rd Go.
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This was the consolation prize after falling off the Dr. Megatweak extension above. Gotta love the historic midway anchors for that!
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2007-05-29
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Really fun technical climbing - Heel hooking helped
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First 12b -
a great climb!
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28
onsights9
flashes66
redpointsTotal Sends: 103
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