Show Beta
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Evan Waugh: Right heel first, left smear -
Justin Friend: Skip the Arete intermediate on the v8 start! It sucks haha -
marc-antoinevigneault: Left smear n Right heel, cross right hand n match then out to the starting slopper of Mr. -
Luke Zimmerman: I did the opening move by back stepping with my right foot and crossing my right hand to the crimp.
Recent Sendage:
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This turned a good problem into a turd. For me, biggles feels like an 8, and low feels like a 9.
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3 tries later
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Under 8 tries. Albeit a bit dabby and claustrophobic it climbs very well and awesome hold quality. Fun and squeezy
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A couple burns and a failed top out attempt later. Heel for start position. -
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Finally had the flexibility to fit the box.
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Hard with these t-rex arms -
Knee bar cheat start. One day I'll go back and do it the stronk person way.
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Eliminate: no heels, no knee bars. #squareon #pouringcoal
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Holy that first move. The stand climbs so well though. -
Sent under an hour. All in the right heel. I don't think it's a v10. Great addition to the stand.
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Maybe 3 attempts after repeating the stand. Not that much harder, especially starting with the right heel on. -
First 10. Feels good man. The start felt so weird at first but after working the opening moves to death I found a sequence that flowed really well for me! Didn’t expect to do it today but some serious wind gusts started coming in I got really psyched and things just clicked.
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There is an obvious low start and it seems like just the regular place to start to me. Better than the midway version Imo, also started seated on one pad with no heel. -
2020-08-05First V10!!! Low start isn’t actually that bad, especially once you establish. Messy top out, but still super stoked. -
Revisiting some oldies -
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whole lotta grr, good way to close out the weekend
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always thought the first moves were hard, but with certain beta they arn't too bad and this went down in a handful of tries and a group send train commenced! -
Did the low the same day as I did the stand! With the right heel hook to start. Can't say it's V10, but it sure is good!
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Hard first pull. A whisper of a dab on the send -
7/23: first session and nearly sent it! 7/25: was still a bit tired but dialled in some micro beta 8/3: meh session 8/4: sent! Was hot out (31C outside the forest), but the beta was all in place so I'm thankful to get it in the bag! Also, first of the grade! -
It's not a V10
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Pretty mellow with the right beta. 2nd go this year. -
Low definitely adds difficulty, but the added grade definitely takes away a star or two. Definitely see why it’s a first V10 for a lot of folks -
sit adds difficulty but not quality IMO -
Tough first move, the climb is great tho! Got the heel to stick! -
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A powerful move at the bottom into the stand. First of the grade for me!
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Fun, fun, fuuun -
Copped that double heel hook beta
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2018-05-28 -
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Finally 😊 I either tried it below 0 temps, 30 degrees c, or end of sesh... until today! Perfect friction & the heel didn’t pop. Crux for me always has been the V8 move! -
2018-02-17 -
Super good climbing on this one
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I'd say slightly soft, but wow, but a fun climb. Really enjoyed this one, sent it last minute before we had to leave Squam.
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Super psyched to have sent this 12 hours before flying down to Colorado. Quick send in a sesh and a half thanks to key beta from Ashley and Coco. Yeeee!
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Surprised myself with a send today! Right heel hook start -
Boo ya first 10! Perhaps a bit soft but I definitely tried super hard. So much core in the opening moves.
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Fun crimp moves at the start. Used a right heel hook on the lip to lock in.
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2016-07-27
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Knee bar beta makes the start significantly easier, so why not? Sent third go! Thanks ash for the beta :)
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Felt like I was going to blow it on every move. -
2016-05-07
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2015-08-25Clutch toe hook beta..
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2015-08-05
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Really had to fight for this one. Glad I sussed out the technique beta. Needed it on the send. Starting going right leads to a rad second move. -
2015-06-04Last go, best go
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2014-10-09
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2014-08-18Surprise send! Super psyched!
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Working this problem in the heat I thought I was never going to do it. Then, when it cooled down, it felt relatively easy. The low start adds some extra fun and challenge to an already great problem.
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2014-01-19Did the low section first go today but took over an hour to finish it off. Thanks for the betas michelle -
Fun, for a short, dabby crapheap. The stand is awesome and deserves some props though. And the sit provides a very fun challenge.
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Wtf kind of v6 was that!? The moves were the same difficulty as this low start
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V9Anonymous User2012-08-04
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yipee! A small triumph...although I still have a few more projects before I leave on Tuesday on my research cruise.
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Executed it first try I stuck the bottom move. Really cool heelhook throw, then dyno.
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Really didn't see this going down... but the footwork makes all the difference apparently!
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2010-08-05 -
good problem, maybe a bit soft.
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the stand is probably harder than V6 and the sit is probably easier than V10...
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2010-06-28
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2010-06-20 -
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2010-03-24
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V10 ↓Anonymous User
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Additional difficulty, decreases quality IMO.
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onsights1
flashes94
redpointsTotal Sends: 95
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