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    Vancouver > Cypress Village > Trunk Monkey

    A collection of smaller blocks in the immediate vicinity of the Trunk Monkey MTB trail. Most of them are west of the trail.

    Red Rocks > Kraft Boulders

    This relatively condensed area offers a range of boulders from V0-V10 with higher concentration in the V5-V8 range. Kraft highlights the friendly sandstone edges it has become known for. Expect to find something for everyone, with a range of different climbing styles from the burly overhangs of the Monkey Bar Cave to the classic crimp test piece, The Pearl or the sloping Bubble Butt.

    Canada > British Columbia > Whistler > Cal-Cheak > Monkey and Weasel

    Slab wall on the left coming out from the forest. Don't worry, the routes have holds.

    Smith Rock > Kiss of the Lepers Buttress

    West facing Buttress that is the first distinct formation North of Monkey Face

    Queensland > Flinders Peak > Flinders Cave

    Flinders cave is a modern discovery indeed. The cave hosts a great deal of obscenely steep, hard routes. Nicknamed “27 Heaven”- the climbing is upside down ceiling thuggery- which translates to be very physical and relentless. 'The Secret Cave' or ‘Flinders Cave’ is sixty metres high, but from twenty to fifty metres overhanging with the main wall being about twenty metres height at 60°- 80°. As Cameron Fairburn writes- “We had found the steepest terrain in QLD, or I should say rediscovered. We found a line of old 8mm hardware down the right wall of the cave that belonged to Frey Yule. We think he checked out the cave about five years previously but then moved interstate. The cave is SSW facing, so no sun all year round and only a 40min drive from 'Brisbane'. Unfortunately, there is also the 2.5km, 40min uphill walk in as well. The rock is solid volcanic trachyte with formations uncommon in Queensland; it's a mixture of fused blocks, huecos, crystallised slopers and hard crimps - the holds can be quite sharp. Some of the easier routes like 'The Nightmare of Milky Joe' (23) and 'Never Ask the Moon' (22) are super-fun cut-loose jug fests. Early in the piece, Glen established 'Wet Jigsaw Puzzle' (25) a short pump fest that climbs out of the steepest part of the wall. To add to this he climbed 'King of the Mods' (27), adding to a huge range of 27’s to come. Then the numbers rolled, I freed my project after my food was spiked 'Like a Man on Pepperoni' (27), possibly the steepest climb in 'Queensland'. That was until Glen equipped his, an 80° blank arête project, 'A Space Odyssey' 25m 30 or 5.13c”. 'The Secret Cave' consists of two developed areas: the steep main wall and a right hand wall which, although not as steep as the main wall, offers some challenging climbing. 'Terminus of Desire' (25) climbs from under the large overhang. This route will be used to access the steeper upper wall which has the potential for a couple of super hard routes. With all this new development Ross returned to develop what he hoped would be a nice easy sub-20 warm up. He ended up establishing 'Finger Tips and Mountain Tops' (23), an intricate crimp-fest climbing above the lip of this right-hand buttress. Ross then established 'Song and Dance Man' (27) a steep juggy start into a hard crimper sequence. Glen the power monkey campused his way to glory on Backstroke of the West (27) while another buddy of ours Antoine Moussette battled scorpion-eating spiders on one of the best 5.12c’s or 26’s in Qld “The French Connection' . There is still so much more to do. Hard unclimbed projects, the undeveloped upper wall and the central cave section as well as some creative batman starts. 'The Secret Cave' has proved to be a valuable asset to 'Queensland' climbing, not only in the unique steep terrain, but also in the addition of ever increasing harder sport climbs in 'Queensland'. When to go: All day, any day. Providing you can handle the heat on the walk-in.

    Thailand > Railay > Tonsai

    Tonsai and the surrounding area is a beautiful paradise of limestone cliffs convieneantly situated close to the Andaman sea. The climbing consists of steep and strenuous to long and technical routes on mostly good rock. There are single pitch, multipitch bolted routes as well as some beach bouldering and a well established bouldering cave. Tonsai has accommodation, food and many climber friendly bars to hang out in, making it a prime winter destination for anyone looking to escape colder conditions.

    Vancouver Island > Gulf Islands > Salt Spring Island > Quarry Boulders

    Quarry Boulders are located in the North end of the island near Vesuvius. Lots of pads and spotters are recommended because boulders are stacked and landings are bad, and some boulders hang out over the water so you may get wet.

    Bow Valley > Heart Creek > Upper Amphitheatre

    High, scenic, quiet - a nice place to hang out.

    Skaha > Hang Dog Hill

    A quick set of easy climbs just to the left of Daycare.

    United States > Oregon > Carver > Yosemite Boulders

    From the parking lot hang a right after the slab boulder that guards the entrance. Up the hill to your left you'll see the Warm-Up boulder, keep going until you hit a grouping of rocks. Contains the Yosemite Sam, Mantle, and Out There boulders.

    Kananaskis > Moose Mountain > Beach Front Buttress

    Overall this cliff is a newer moderate warm-up venue for climbers going to the Moose Mountain Crags. The Beach Front Buttress was fully developed in the spring of 2019. Until recently it was the first climbable cliff encountered on the way into the area. There are thirteen routes on this sunny south facing aspect. The crag is tucked in behind a treed shoulder with generally good sun exposure and it’s out of the wind for the most part. Overall it hosts moderate climbing (ten routes are in the 5.10 range or less) making for an ideal stop to warm up on before heading up valley to try some of the harder fare on offer. This small crag provides a pleasant venue to spend the day doing low intensity moderate cragging. The only drawback to these fun routes is the overall height of the cliff at around 20m or less, it simply leaves climbers wanting more. In spring/late winter this small buttress catches the sun roughly an hour before the Moose Patch sector located another 5 minutes up the road. Stopping off here allows climbers to start their day bit sooner. This crag is usually out of the wind and a sun trap making it ideal for late winter and early spring rock climbing and fighting with marginal temperatures. Named after the unusual sand beach found below the cliff on the northern flank of Canyon Creek. The venue makes for a very fun hang. The creekbed was dry during the three weeks of development in March and early April of 2019. However, later in the year be aware that water levels can change rapidly and crag access may require proceeding upstream crossing over the bridge and then working back along the north bank of Canyon Creek during spring runoff or following heavy rains from intense summer thunder storms. All climbs on this crag are well protected, most require six or seven draws plus clips for the anchor. All top anchors are from two staggered ring-bolts. Note: There are some very low first bolts on some routes along with a couple, two-bolt base anchors detailed on the photo-topo. These low height bolts are intended for base anchors to back up tied off trees to allow lead rope soloing on these climbs. Please do not remove these lower hangers. Feel free to clip these bolts while leading or ignore them. Please don’t remove or vandalize this low hanging hardware.

    Bow Valley > Echo Canyon > The Balcony

    The Balcony is a relatively small sector, but hosts a number of great routes on high quality stone. Wedding Crasher 5.13a is the main show, but several other routes are equally good. The sector gets a lot of sun, and is a great hang on days when the Shield or Atlantis are too cold.

    Squamish > Cheakamus Canyon > The Gym

    The Gym is a small area of interesting crags with routes that tend to be short, powerful affairs. If you like climbs that test your bouldering fortitude more than your ability to hang on, this area is for you.

    Kananaskis > Moose Mountain > Spider Brook

    This is a delightful shaded little box canyon that lies 30m beyond where the trail heads right up to the rising wall for Morning Side Crag from the creek drainage. The small venue is named after a very “BIG” spider and it’s web that were hanging out back in 2016 just left of what Andy Genereux thought would to be the first climb established at this newer venue. Turned out the route might actually one of the oldest climbs at the Moose Mountain Crags? During the early fall of 2016 the first four routes were established by Andy. Initially out of the gate, was the obvious water polished groove, done on lead with a power drill via rope soloing techniques. The line climbs the right side of the obvious polished water chute. It’s called Itsy Bitsy Spider. According to Allan Derbyshire this climb was actually first climbed on marginal trad gear (graded 5.8, “old school” with a possible ground fall potential) back in the late seventies. There was a lone badly hand-drilled self drive bolt with a homemade hanger at the belay (still in place). Andy thought this ugly badly drilled bolt was a residual anchor leftover from passing ice climbers. Allan also mentioned that the wide moss covered chimney/crack on the left side of the bay was also climbed on gear to reach a two piton anchor at roughly 30m, located below a small roof. Details on this line are few but this wide crack line for now is called Trad Special and is included for a more complete picture of the available climbing at this venue. If this wide gapping dirty crack/chimney appeals then bring a well stocked trad-rack. The remaining climbs established at this venue all went in top down requiring extensive cleaning. The routes were then rope soloed by Genereux while building these lines over two seasons at Spider Brook. All the routes at Spider Brook are located in a shady mostly north facing recessed pocket for much of the year this shady sector sees virtually no direct sunlight. This makes for a good venue to avoid the heat of mid-summer. It houses some nice moderate climbing and is a great place to hang out if one is waiting for the nearby east facing Morning Side Crag to come into shade on blistering hot summer mornings. This is usually around 1:30 pm.

    Boulder List 2011

    I want to nail some boulder problems to work on my monkey-kung-fu-grip...