Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

An east facing wall on the road to the community of Laghel. Contains some historic climbs. This wall was the location of the Italian trails for qualifying for the first ever Rock Master in 1987. Calvario is located very close to the centre of Arco. Situated in an olive grove, on private property.

Una cueva en medio de la sierra de Santa Rosa, desarrollado actualmente por el master Rogelio de la Fuente

The Psycho Boulders are 2 areas with about 15+ problems (so far) total. Containing classics like Powerhouse (v2), Psycho Crusher (v6), Bad Abdomen (v4), and Dungeon Master (v6), some bushwhacking will be required for problems 8-14 (page 33 in the book). Not often visited, but moreso as the summer progresses.

Squamish is the Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada. It has been referred to as mini-Yosemite for its granite crack climbing and its World class bouldering makes it a popular summertime destination. Squamish also has sport climbing for all ability levels. Planning a trip to Squamish can sometimes be difficult due to bad weather. If you're looking for consistency, but don't mind climbing in the heat, come in July, August, or September. If you need friction to send your project there are some crisp dry days in February and October. Unless you're a local, don't plan to climb in Squamish from November to January. April, May and June offer great conditions that are often interrupted by long periods of rain.

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_waterworld_rrock.html Waterworld---- 11.9 km N from mica creek turnoff in Revelstoke Waterworld is a unique and exciting place to climb, all climbs start right out of the deep waters of the Revelstoke Lake. An adventurous style of climbing on steep enjoyable cliffs. All three cliffs face west and have a total height of up to 90 meters. The Waterworld has three large cliffs, Gilligans Island, Voyage Cliff and Gangplank. All three cliffs are accessible from Hwy 23 North with a short walk and several rappels, or for the more adventurous climbers, a canoe paddle up the scenic lake to the start of the steep climbs. Climbing at Waterworld is definitely more serious then on shorter crags such as Begbie Bluffs or Shaketown. Once you have rappelled you are committed and have to be able to climb at least the easiest route on the crag to make it back up... unless you plan to hitch a ride with an occasional fishing-boat. Further, good rope handling and rappelling skills are important to safely climb at Waterworld.

The Furthest right-hand side of The Fortress to Red Tail Area. On the same slab right of 'Preface' and 'Mother Superior.' Moderate routes between 5.6 - 5.9 (13 - 25m) in height, which is probably why it is the busiest crag in skaha. Come with a plan B.

This sector is the combination on two crags: east-facing Shortcut Cliff and west-facing Behemoth. Shortcut sports a few gear-protected cracks, but as it stands it's far from a destination spot. However, Behemoth has decent potential. So far there's a few quality routes in the 5.10-5.11 range, but that number could grow in the future. This cliff is close enough to Shortcut and the top end of Foreplay that a combination of crags is a reasonable plan. Conditions: Shortcut Cliff faces west and gets afternoon sun with no tree shade. Behemoth faces east and uphill, so it's in the sun in the morning.

Area that has been left a bit for dead these past few years. It`s remote, it`s wild, it`s a great way to disconnect. Probably best to plan a multi-day trip with a bunch of friends and enjoy the tent platforms near the cliffs.

Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff – at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long. Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) – the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the “Great Gully”). To the left of the “Great Gully” is a smaller wall called “Mid-Wall”. The “Mid Wall” is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the “North Gully”. The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well. There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950’s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook “Central BC Rock” by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere. The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand. Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 “Icy BC”. New Route Development Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval. Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays. Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger. Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.

This sector is the combination on two crags: east-facing Shortcut Cliff and west-facing Behemoth. Shortcut sports a few gear-protected cracks, but as it stands it's far from a destination spot. However, Behemoth has decent potential. So far there's a few quality routes in the 5.10-5.11 range, but that number could grow in the future. This cliff is close enough to Shortcut and the top end of Foreplay that a combination of crags is a reasonable plan. Conditions: Shortcut Cliff faces west and gets afternoon sun with no tree shade. Behemoth faces east and uphill, so it's in the sun in the morning.

[NANAIMO BOULDERING GUIDE](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PYZZcl4dBR3U6ha-VNCc-cEcWD6dJLwp/view?usp=sharing) Conglomerate sandstone bouldering in one of the best locations on the Island. Bring your swimwear and a towel if you plan on coming here in the summer. [Nanaimo River Flow Monitoring](https://wateroffice.ec.gc.ca/report/real_time_e.html?stn=08HB034) *With a water level of 1.5m recorded at the monitoring station, the only lower river boulders underwater or partially underwater are Amphibian and Underwater Horse Massacre, everything else is climbable. *Boulders actually in the river such as Clairvoyance, Fortune Cat, and Bass Hole are climbable at 0.62m. Serene seems to require a landing as it always has water under it.* *The Dragon Claw / Zen Garden area is hard to predict early in the year. Big ponds form there when the river is high that take a while to dry up. Also this area can collect a lot of big logs and debris from the winter. It is best to ask a Nanaimo resident if you are planning on making a trip just to climb around Dragon Claw.*