Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_victor_rrock.html How to get there Coming from Revelstoke: Drive along the Trans Canada highway (Hwy1) towards west (Vancouver). Once you crossed the Columbia River Bridge and reached the turnoff for Hwy 23 S (traffic light), start counting the kilometers as you keep driving west along Hwy 1. At km 13.8 you come to a paved truck pullout, directly in between the highway and Victor Lake (second lake west of Revelstoke). This is a good place to park your car. Please do not park at the gravel pullout 280 meters east, dangerous for oncoming fast moving traffic. Coming from Vernon, Kamloops or Sicamous: Drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards east (Calgary). Once you are past the prominent red hotel at Three Valley Gap, keep driving towards east for another few kilometers. This will bring you across a bridge and further to the Victor Lake (third lake east of Sicamous). Park at the prominent paved truck pullout. Approach From the paved truck pullout in between the highway and Victor Lake walk for 280 meters along Hwy 1 towards east. This brings you to a gravel pullout (don’t park your car there). Cross the highway to its north side (caution fast driving cars and trucks). There walk along an overgrown road for approximately 80 meters towards east (historical wagon road from Sicamous to Revelstoke). From this point, walk up the steep trail to the base of the Victor Lake Wall. For the routes "Return of the Osprey", "Trans Canada" and "Pan America" branch off to the right shortly prior the actual wall (sign). For all other routes keep following the main trail aiming straight up and slightly climber left. 15 minutes from the highway. Descent for all Victor Lake Wall Routes From the top of the Victor Lake Wall walk down the marked trail towards west and eventually in south direction. This brings you within 30 to 35 minutes back to your car at the Victor Lake and the Trans Canada Highway. Just as on the Squamish Grand Wall or any route on Yamnuska, bring a super light pack and light approach shoes, climb one of the many grand routes and after the climb enjoy the quick walk down back to the highway. The Goat Ledge The Goat Ledge is the prominent large ledge separating the entire upper wall from the lower wall. The Victor Ledge allows climbers to bail from any route as you walk towards west, along this large ledge to the Ninth Symphony / The Mission. After you arrive at the fourth belay anchor of The Mission, rappel straight down the lower part of the Ninth Symphony and the Baldwin Start. (35m, 30m, 28m, 28m). In between Return of the Osprey and Restless Spirits is a fixed rope.

This spectacular lookout trail above the West Arm of Kootenay Lake looking over the city of Nelson is one of the finest hiking spots in the area. With a huge amount of volunteer effort from several locals, it certainey is a work of art. As you clamber up the thousands of rock steps, it will surely give you a sense of how much work was required to bring this trail to its current state. Now, combine this awesome hiking trail with a fantastic Granite Sport Climb and you have an adventure in the making! Although only one route exists, its exposed position over the valley below, the quality of the climbing and the beautiful rock, make for a very fine outing. You are literally belaying and climbing with 500 ft. of air below you and the moves on the route are sure to give you a rush! The climb itself faces south, dries quickly due to the exposed nature of the rock, always seems to have a breeze and goes into the shade late afternoon (making it perfect in the warmer months for an after work session). Besides a rack of draws and a 60m rope, you will want to bring a helmet and a sling of sorts to anchor yourself while belaying. Make sure you look for the amazing “best seat in the house” rock at the base which offers a fine (and comfortable) seat overlooking the lake (and a good place to gear up).

For free topos, photos, and all the info you need, visit www.revelstokebouldering.ca The boulders are found West of Revelstoke on the EAGLE PASS FSR (forest service road) off of the trans-canada HWY # 1. From the main intersection accessing Revelstoke (Victoria/Laforme and HWY 1) you must head West towards Kamloops on the HWY. You will cross the mighty Columbia River and reach the intersection for HWY 23 South/Westsyde RD. (also a set of lights) - this is where you restart your odometer!! Continue past the intersection for 7 km's and until you have JUST passed the second set of passing-lanes from town. Use the shoulder of the HWY to slow down and turn RIGHT onto Eagle Pass FSR. *If the road dead-ends in 100 metres, you've turned on the wrong road and turned too early!* The Eagle Pass road will perform switch-back immediately and climb up the slopes. Once you have gone 700 metres and you have crossed a dry creek (if your lucky) you will have reached an area to park at the edge of the Cut-block on the left. Pull-over and Park. From parking you will continue up the FSR 20 metres to the P-Boulder and trail-head marked with Cairns on the right side and upwards on the mountain-slope. Note: FSR 20 has been refurbished. You can park at the apex of the first switchback and walk along the gravel road for about 500m before it turns to a faint trail that leads you to the Warmups Area. Note: Bring a large brush and bring your friends to this area, with some love it can be a great bouldering spot!

[Area guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk) • Step 1. Getting to the Hartland landfill When leaving Victoria head toward the ferries. Before you head up the last hill out of town there is the Royal Oak exit. Take this exit and then turn left and cross the bridge over the highway. After crossing the bridge you will hit your first set of lights. Go straight through this intersection and then take a right at the next lights. The road you will be turning onto will be West Saanich road. Follow this road for quite a while until you seen Hartland road on your left. Turn onto this road and follow it until just before you head into the dump. There is a big parking lot at to the right off the road. Pull in there and park. • Step 2. Getting to the boulders Once parked, follow the mountain bike trail to the left of the road. You will follow the fence for a while and then pass the skills area. Next you will head downward and cross a creek and then climb a small hill. At the top of the hill you'll want to take a left onto one of the bike trails. Follow this trail for about 7 minutes until you hit one of the small clearings. There should be a big piece of scrap metal beside the start of the trail. Take this trail down the hill. This trail will join up with another trail. When this happens, go right. Follow this trail for about 10 minutes along the lake. After passing the lake you should start to see the start of the bouldering area off to your left. Keep heading down the trail, always keeping to the left. After crossing a couple logs the trails will take a sharp turn to the left and you should end up a the overhang wall.

Whitehorse Ledge is a huge chunk of granite that is host to a wide variety of climbing styles from face climbs to cracks to of course slabs. The cliff is known for its stellar slab climbing. Often bold and always what you think of when you think slab. The variety at Whitehorse makes it hard to include everything. For example, the routes are of all varieties from short crack climbs to 1000+ft smooth slabs. Some routes eat up gear while others run out entire pitches all the way to the anchor. Best thing to do is find a climb that suits you and get after it. Climbing on this cliff, rich with history, variety and personality will help you learn the skills you need to climb anywhere you please. The south buttress is a prime area to climb in the colder months due to its southern exposure.

Nestled in the woods off the east side of Route 73 (across from Chapel Pond) is a great, little crag with several quality routes. The aptly named Creature Wall hosts a range of climbing from 5.5 to 5.10, and offers several routes referencing Steven King novels, such as "Christine", "Firestarter", "Pet Cemetery", and "Cujo". This cliff has the highest concentration of 5.8s (7 total) in Keene Valley, so if you are looking to test your meddle at said grade, look no further. The cliff sits among a thick, forested hillside below Washbowl and is oriented toward the west. As a result, it offers shade in the morning and warm afternoons. To compliment this, all the climbs are single pitch, thus offering a nice option for those wanting to take it down a notch and enjoy a "mellow" day at the crag. The climbing is a healthy mixture of thin face and vertical crack climbing (from thin fingers to paw-swallowing handcracks), with the majority of the routes clocking in at around the 5.7 to 5.9 range. This is not a crag to visit when it rains, nor can you expect it to dry out quickly after it does rain. On nice weekends in the summer and fall, expect to have some neighbors at this cliff. Because of its proximity to the road, and the ease of toproping, it is occasionally the site of guided groups. This cliff is also along the approach trail to the Washbowl Cliffs, so you may also see some traffic from people climbing at the crags above you. Enjoy the climbing here for its quality of cracks, variety of movement, and beautiful views from the top of the cliff.

https://climbing.sa/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/The-Book-ClimbGuide2022.pdf Looking northwest from the base of Al Sharaf crag you will see Jebel Jalala. This is the highest peak in sight with an elevation of nearly 2500 m. This prominent feature towers high above the city of Tanomah. The summit offers a spectacular 360° view of the area. On its western Á ank, the peak takes a prominent place on the escarpment separating the plateau from the plains. The mountain exposes two perpendicular cliffs about 180 m in height: the east and south face. These make the rock look like an opened book, which is why Jebel Jalala is also called Al Qitab by the locals, meaning The Book. This area was first climbed by Bernie Caddey and others in the 1990’s. Approximately 30 m to the right of the chimney, you can still a line of old anchors from those days which are not recommend for use. First and foremost, a word of acknowledgment to the climbing community of Saudi Arabia. Although climbing is a new sport in the kingdom, it is rapidly growing in numbers. Its enthusiasm and thirst for climbing is nothing short of contagious, having motivated the authors of this guide to further explore new vertical worlds. A special mention to Arnoud Slootman and Nathan Mathy. Arnoud, , took it upon himself to tackle the giant project of creating the À rst sport climbing multi-pitch in Saudi Arabia. Nate joined later, greatly contributing with his expertise and constant support. Thank you to everyone who contributed in the scouting, bolting, cleaning or hauling of gear: Abdulrahman Alabdu, Ali Saad Abu Tarish, Aref Alkouatli, Ayman Waseem, Azeez Basri, Ibrahim Al Kadhim, João Miquel, Phung Ly and Yahjah Al Ameer. Lastly, thank you to the Riyadh Climbing Turtles for their financial support.

Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff – at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long. Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) – the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the “Great Gully”). To the left of the “Great Gully” is a smaller wall called “Mid-Wall”. The “Mid Wall” is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the “North Gully”. The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well. There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950’s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook “Central BC Rock” by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere. The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand. Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 “Icy BC”. New Route Development Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval. Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays. Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger. Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.

Summary: This is a new Sully's crag named Sully's Bear Asian Buffet Description: This is a new crag to the left of Sully's Hangout. There are 10 new climbs there, 6 of which are 5.9 or below. The climbing tends to be steeper with good holds. The left-most 5 climbs dry fairly quickly. Access issues inherited from Sully's Hangout: ACCESS ALERT! Authorities representing the LSCR have decided not to permit rock climbing in the area. Nor will they be responsible for, or manage, the Sully’s Hangout climbing area which lies within its borders. However, at this time LSCR personnel will not specifically prevent persons from climbing within the LSCR. Any person who chooses to rock climb within the LSCR does so absolutely at their own risk. Keeping the Sully’s Hangout climbing area open to climbers will require that climbers obey LSCR rules at all times while present in the LSCR and that they respect without question the wishes of LSCR personnel and/or any signs posted regarding climbing in the LSCR or at the climbing area. If approached by park rangers, be friendly and polite. Stay on the trail and within the platform areas at the base of the crag. Always use “leave-no-trace” wilderness ethics. Leash your dog (or better yet leave it at home), pack out your trash, and keep the climbing area clean and tidy. This is all very important—we need to keep our impact to a minimum. Also, the area is still being developed. If there is a red tape on the first bolt, the route is a project and is off limits. Please don’t interfere with fixed ropes and gear. IMPORTANT! Note that the main gates at both major access points are CLOSED and LOCKED in the evening at clearly posted times. You MUST be out before the gates are locked or you will be shut in. Any attempt to tamper with or defeat the gates will result in a POLICE CALL. Either get out of the gated area before closing, or use an alternate, non-gated access point. Do not, for any reason whatsoever, attempt to circumvent the gate closure—you could get the crag permanently closed to climbing!

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

Long a favourite with the locals due to its close proximity to Prince George, this crag remains the only game in town. This is not a destination area, and if you have any climbing experience elsewhere whatsoever you will look upon a visit to Evening Rock with a mixture of horror and nausea. Leading is not to be undertaken lightly as the rock on this cliff is anything but the best, and it is not uncommon to have holds break off well-established climbs that have seen numerous ascents. The height of the cliff ranges from four to 12 meters. Access is a contentious issue, and a climber should exercise restraint and caution while visiting this cliff.

Rodents ate the hand-drawn topo that used to be in the bucket up there, so crag photo provided below. All routes are accessed by rapping in - bring a jumar. Cold temps, sticky rubber, and good skin are essential! Most routes are still projects here. This wall is the diagonal, flat-looking face at the top of the hill above the Bayon, visible from the highway and at certain points along the creek. The climbing is pretty condition-dependent, so here are some tips to save you from hiking in and shredding your skin or otherwise just having a bad time: • The wall gets morning sun and afternoon shade. • It's relatively exposed and almost always gets strong wind, even when it's calm on the hike in. • Even in a light rain, the top of the wall will get wet. Keep in mind that this is your entry/exit route and it's presumably not a great place to be if there's a chance of lightning. • Just about all chalk will wash off the routes after a day of rain. • If you don't know what antihydral is or you're not a masochist, this might not be the crag for you.

Squamish is the Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada. It has been referred to as mini-Yosemite for its granite crack climbing and its World class bouldering makes it a popular summertime destination. Squamish also has sport climbing for all ability levels. Planning a trip to Squamish can sometimes be difficult due to bad weather. If you're looking for consistency, but don't mind climbing in the heat, come in July, August, or September. If you need friction to send your project there are some crisp dry days in February and October. Unless you're a local, don't plan to climb in Squamish from November to January. April, May and June offer great conditions that are often interrupted by long periods of rain.

This boulder is better known for its close proximity to town rather then for having quality problems, but it adds a little hideout for those not wanting to climb at the always busy traverse wall by the ocean. Head up the path to the top of the hill above the rope climbing, there is two small boulders, the one on the right is barbwire boulder. As with everything on the Island there is a high chance that these problems were climbed a long time ago, but recently a local took the time to remove a whole bunch of rusted barbed wire surrounding the boulder, freeing up a couple short lines. We could not find any info on these boulders so we are going with these names for now, but are certainly open to change what we need to. Its climbing... just have fun.

Was once a quite and secluded area from the main populace where you could find quiet and not many climbers ... ... Chippewa Creek Gorge was formed by glacier movements thousands of years ago. These glaciers exposed outcrops of Shale, Berea Sandstone, and Euclid Bluestone. In the late 1800s the Berea Sandstone and the Euclid Bluestone were quarried for use as building materials. This ended in the early 20th century due to a decreased demand for natural stone for construction. Brecksville Reservation was declared a public park soon after. In the late 1990s the first information about climbing in the park was posted to another rock climbing website. Problems were put up and documented by that generation of climbers, but not everything was posted back then, and the website ended up becoming defunct. Legal access to the park for climbing was problematic. There was a high risk of getting your gear confiscated by park rangers. Around this time, Jeffery Bonatti created a series of hand drawn “Ruff Guides” for the park, but they weren’t highly accessible. Due to this lack of organized information, each subsequent generation of climbers claimed FAs and gave names to lines that have likely been claimed and named multiple times before throughout the years. To add to this, the moss and lichen covers boulders that don’t see much traffic and makes it look like they’ve never been touched. The creek changes the sand bars and covers or reveals footholds and washes away evidence of being climbed. Currently, the park is more accessible and more developed for climbing than recent history. There is a trail being made by the park system going from the main Gorge Rim trail down to the creek where Pinch Arete and Keyhole are. Due to the volume of climbers that have been recreating in the park, it no longer feels sketchy to walk in with pads for a session due to power of the masses. On any pleasant day you can fully expect to see other people climbing. Work is being done to organize the lines into a definitive list with proper photos, names, locations, and grades. On the topic of conditions, many problems have had holds broken off in recent years due to being climbed when the rock is still wet. The boulders in the creek itself are much more tolerant to this due to many years of water erosion, but the rock higher up on the cliff line isn’t used to this kind of stress and breaks surprisingly easy. Surprising like, wow I’m falling but the hold is still in my hands, surprising. It usually takes a solid three days of dryness and wind to get back into shape after a good, longer in the spring and winter. The main parking area for climbing access is the Pavilion area at the East end of Chippewa Creek Drive. It isn’t the first lot by the waterfall, it is ~1000ft down the road, where there are four parking areas grouped together with a swing set and a pavilion. If you walk straight North from the swing set you'll find the chained entrance to the climbing trail with a sign that states “Stay on the designated trail.” Stay on designated trails. Check out climbchippewa.com for more assistance and this WIP map of problems/info/location ----> https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1n3KipMBR1zOSon5n8RcScCqQkjStPMV7&ll=41.31983427452158%2C-81.6170396062424&z=17

The Shaman is an often overlooked crag despite its relatively short approach and good quality climbing. This might be because it's shady to the point of being dark (not a bad thing in the middle of the summer) and because its climbs are neither sport nor trad. They are "adventure sport" or whatever you want to call routes that are bolted, but only every twenty or thirty feet.

The Olesen Creek Wall is a substantial cliff, yet it remains overshadowed by its towering neighbor, the Chief. Despite its short approach, the wall has seen little development; the densely forested base and the absence of obvious natural lines have kept it largely in obscurity. With its northerly aspect and perch above Oleson Creek, the wall offers a cool, shaded setting—an ideal choice for hot summer days.

This area gets its name from the collapsed bird watching hut at the top, which overlooked the breathtakingly beautiful valley. This view is a contender for the best view in the area. Approaching from the trail you will see a fairly big hill, around the back are a bunch of boulders stacked on top of eachother. The easiest way to access the climbing is from the top of the hill. Go to the top and walk down the left side, then around the back. There is potential here for some really cool climbing,which would span some really unique styles. Such as finger locks, lay backing and hanus crimping. You just have to have a work ethic and imagination to see the lines. There is also the possibility of putting up a single bolt line at the tallest point. The area was first developed by Astor Fenoglio, Destiny Odway and Christin Sykes. Hit them up if you have any questions; they would love to share with you some of the crazy adventures they’ve had while developing this pristine climbing area.

For quality 5.9-5.10 face climbs on compact, vertical stone, the left side of Kids' Cliff is hard to beat. This crag is a bit of a journey to reach, but the lengthy trek greatly increases your chances of finding solitude during weekends and busy holidays. The wall is nestled in a shallow draw alongside the west face of Cave Hill and the proximity to that formation allows for a post-climb exploration of its unique slot caves if you're into that sort of thing. If not, Move rightward along Kids' Cliff to give your fingers a thorough drubbing on the crag's harder routes, worthwhile pitches that range from 5.11 to mid- 5.12! Conditions: Nether Land and Kids' Cliff both face due east and get blasted by morning sunshine. Kids' Cliff has a few trees at the base that provide some shade relief, but Nther Land does not.

A nice alternative to the Nut Tree Boulders of Vacaville, though not nearly as large. The creek helps to keep things cool during the summer. The down side of this is abundant poison oak, found from the road to the water. "There are 3 main boulders here. Just below the parking pullout is the Roadside Boulder, we did not climb there. As you head down the obvious trail look for the spurs that cut left into the trees. First you will pass a smaller less steep boulder with a couple of problems. The next boulder you come to is the Heavy Metal Boulder and is quite large, there is a rock shelf below the river side (steeper) of the boulder. The last boulder, the Purgatory Boulder sits right on and partially in the creek, the steeper face, faces the road and the bulging face is on the downstream side of the boulder."

Nice and quiet with beautiful sightseeing on the lake and hills surrounding. Slabby and technical, there is also several crack systems that will get you to the top in up to four pitches (80m+/-). Facing East, the cliff will loose sunrays around 14:00. Mostly sport climbing and bolted for short falls. Also a few trad routes will keep you interested like the unique roof crack traverse. If you don't own a rack, some cracks have the non-ethical (for some) of being bolted leaving you the option of placing gear or not.

THIS AREA IS NOW CLOSED The tenure of this land has now changed to Reserve for Aboriginal and cultural purposes. This land has many cultural and environmental values and is a special place for Aboriginal people. The Dhagun Yumba Aboriginal Corporation has been appointed as trustee for the land and asks that you respect the cultural significance of the area by not entering and climbing on the land. FINES APPLY FOR BREACH - CULTURAL HERITAGE ACT Do NOT ENTER This legislation helps land users and Traditional Owners protect and manage cultural heritage. It requires anyone who carries out a land use activity to exercise a duty of care. This 'duty of care' means land users must take all reasonable and practicable measures to ensure their activity does not harm Aboriginal cultural heritage. Fines of up to $133,450 for an individual and $1,334,500 for a corporation apply for causing unlawful harm to Aboriginal cultural heritage or for breaching the duty of care may apply. Cultural heritage duty of care guidelines have been developed to help land users in assessing reasonable and practicable measures for meeting the cultural heritage duty of care. Land users should consult the duty of care guidelines before undertaking a land use activity.

The Rock: Ranging from slab to overhangs, this rock represents more of the Castlegar goodness you know and love. Lots of unique features allow for steep overhanging routes to go at reasonable grades. The climbing sits about 350m higher in elevation than the Castlegar valley bottom, lending to crisp morning temps even on the hottest days. You can expect the sun to come around at about 1:30 PM. Recent Climbing History: We are still gathering info so we can document past work done by the pioneers. Folks like Gord Lindsay, Shawn Tasker, JT Croston, Cam Shute, Ian Macdonald and Mark Senyk (among many others) have been climbing here for decades. Please contact us with all info that you have. There is significant evidence of prior climbing ranging from old webbing & anchors, to bolts of various vintage. It’s safe to assume that any clean cracks have been climbed. Access has always been the limiting factor until recently. Stephen Senecal and I took a renewed interest in the area in the Fall of 2018, and plans were made to request access. Trail Building to the bluffs began in earnest in Spring 2019, with Castlegar locals Andrew Osnach and Greg Mooney joining to explore the area and route the trail up to the Launch wall. The first new modern sport routes (Arms race 11a and Facepalm 11c) were added to the area a few weeks after. The quality and quantity of the area was immediately apparent. Nic Williams, Jarrad Monger Andrew Osnach, Greg Mooney, Liam Barnes and Keith Story joined the action. Always searching for futuristic lines, Nic Williams discovered the loft in the fall of 2019 (and its amazing horizontal roof flake), and dropped everything to establish this ultra-classic hard sport climb. Much to our surprise, the loft gave way to the highest concentration of moderate climbing at the bluffs (so far). 2020 brought the addition of the Picnic Bluff crags (Hawkeye, Craftbrew and Shadetree Crags). Allen Rollin and Jarrad Monger turned their attention to the obvious mixed lines at the Launch wall. Keith Robine and Nicolas P.I. added some great multipitch climbs. Lots of new sport and gear routes are in development, stay tuned!

Lac Du Bonnet, located 115 kilometres northeast of Winnipeg sits on the west shore of the Winnipeg River and at the western edge of the Canadian Shield. Here you will start to see the flat landscapes of the prairies slowly morph into rolling hills littered with forests and lakes and yes, rocks. Reachable in only 90 minutes, the area surrounding Lac du Bonnet is the closest bouldering destination to Winnipeg with over 75 developed climbs and an abundance of undeveloped/undiscovered potential. This spot is perfect for the weekends you can’t make it Jones or echo, but you want to get your outdoor climbing fix. You can head out there at 10 am and still be home that night at a decent time. Perfect for those Sunday funday sessions. For more information, you can purchase the Manitoba bouldering guidebook here: https://manitobakenorabouldering.com/ Or see the online, community made guidebook: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1VrE5hmC6hBWIkwoEeh2nK4odAvWrCznQDIB4GxdSxAA/edit?usp=sharing

Approach: From the first bridge, walk another 2 minutes until you reach the 2nd wooden bridge (made out of fire wood blocks). Cross, and keep hiking for roughly another 3 minutes. You will see another creek crossing with a small plank to help you get over the creek. If you cross the creek and then leave the trail to the left in less than 30 meters you will see the Swiftsure Boulder on the other side of the bank.

Approach: If you are looking at the Peaceful Atom Boulder, turn left and hike until you reach a small creek (< 50 m). Cross the creek and stay relatively low on a faint trail (you should stay below a small out crop on your right). After approximately 50 to 70 m you will be directly under the outcrop. You should be close enough to the wetland on your left to see the skunk cabbage

The two cliffs at Beacon Heights (Phase I and Phase II) are located up above the left side of the Main Crag. To access this area, first make your way to the main crag before entering the forest using the hiking path on the far left side. Go past the unofficial latrine (Main Wall Left) further to the point just before the path curves left (if you see a large rock face on the right of the trail you've gone too far). From here take a sharp right and up the steep bouldery hill and follow the faint track, using the fixed ropes when available. Go left and you’ll get out of the forest onto a sandy slope with views of the city, and Phase I will be in front of you. It shouldn’t be more than 10 minutes from Beacon Main to here. Right before entering Phase I, look uphill and to your right and you’ll notice a series of steps carved into the soil, and the first of another series of fixed ropes to reach Phase II. It should be around 5 minutes from Phase I.

Right at the base of the Second Flatiron a collection of boulders exist that offer some killer problems. Although it's the same kind of rock as Flagstaff, it doesn't seem to hurt as much. Some classic hard problems like The Turning Point (V8) are found here along with plenty of others that are fun and not near as hard. The best time to go is when there is no snow on the ground because you find tons of chalked things that may not be in any book, but are really good problems. This is a great after work or school destination because it is so close and offers things to goof around on, or serious projects that will take you several weeks or months to complete, unless your name is Sharma. (Source: Mountain Project)

This three-sided crag sits on the ridgecrest that seperates the Screeching Wall conyon from Muscle Beach. The position is pleasant and the out-of-the-way nature helps thin crowds, but there's not a very high concentration of pitches here in any specific genre. A couple of moderate cracks are worthy, but the best reason to trudge up to this spot is the small batch of technical 5.0-5.11 sport climbs on the south and east faces. If you send them all, have a go at the crag's crimpy testpiece, 'Peaches' (5.12a). Conditions: This crag has three different aspects - east, south and west - so you can find sun or shade at any time of the day. There's not much in the way of belay shade at any of the three walls.