Topos here: http://justanotheroutdoorpage.blogspot.ca/2013/05/gotham-city-nelson-bc-rock-climbing.html Hidden down amongst the trees right off the highway in a quiet spot, Gotham City hosts 13 great little sport routes on very well featured rock. The highest being about 15 meters, all the climbs pack a lot of fun in a very short time. There is something for everyone here from 5.9 to 5.11a with a bunch of great steep, sustained climbs around the 10a-10d range. The rock varies from granite, to basalt and even a little limestone-ish stuff near the bottom of the Bat Wall. All the climbs are bolted well and have great stations accessible from a trail that leads to the top that makes for some very easy top roping. Keep in mind this is a new area and of a fractured nature. Expect loose rock and some little blocks coming off time to time. Again a wonderful area that faces south and makes for a great day 20 minutes from Nelson. Thanks to Shaun King from Mountain Sense for the development of the area! (All of the FA's are credited to S.King as well 2011)
A set of south- and east-facing granite bluffs near the golf course between Agassiz and Harrison Hot Springs. The climbing features slab, crack and face climbing on grippy, fine-grained stone featured with many xenolithic inclusions which weather to give pockets of all size from monodoight to head sized. The Harrison Bluffs saw most of its traffic in the 1990's, but popularity died out somewhat and many routes became overgrown. Recently (2006+) climbers have been cleaning the area again to improve the mossy state of several climbs. Also several new routes are being cleaned. The rock in the area is very solid granite and it offers many nice slab and crack climbs ranging from 5.8'ish and up. The developement of some boulders on the East and West sides of the bluffs has been on going since this revitalization of the area. Though the landings can be challenging there are some instant classics in here well worth the time and effort. The climbing is at its best between March and November but is low-elevation enough to be good on sunny days through the winter. In general, weekdays are pretty quiet and weekends see up to a half dozen parties climbing. The range of grades is generally 5.8 and up and there are climbs up to 6 pitches long, plus extensive bouldering.
The main edge is a virtually continuous face of exceptionally clean and quick-drying rock of the highest quality up to 17m high. Both natural and quarried buttress exist, giving a variety of climbing styles, although the edge is home to some of the best slab climbing in the country.Work your way along the grades with Sunset Slab (VS 4b), Three Pebble Slab (E1 5a), Long John's Slab (E3-ish 5c), Downhill Racer (E4 6a) to finish up the superb Hairless Heart (E5 6a). Popular routes are polished and weekends often busy. An excellent sun-trap on winter days. Best routes: Valkyrie (HVS 5a) and Beau Geste (E7 6c).
Purple-ish rock that you can see from the Bivy Camp in the Smith Rock Group. Filled with fun easy to moderate climbs.
A 300-ish metre wall of beautiful quartzite. lower third of the wall is limestone and lesser angled, upper wall is bomber quartzite and very steep in places, with nice face climbing between crack systems.
A steep face visible from the road offering hard(ish) climbing on glassy (or chunky) quartz mix. The landing was built in 2020 and while there are some established lines there are a few project lines still to be taken down in the double digit V range.
One of the best crags in the West Kootenays and the definitive epicentre for crack climbing in the area. Routes are steep and pumpy - think Top Shelf in Squamish. This area consists of a complex of several different bluffs located about 400m east of Cash Wall, or about 800m from the 7km parking at Spirit Crag. This is by far the most impressive wall at the bluffs and well worth the 20 ish minute approach.
A few low(ish)-grade problems to work towards in the Peak District.
Routes that are 5.12 (ish) or harder on gear that I'm interested in trying.