Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_victor_rrock.html How to get there Coming from Revelstoke: Drive along the Trans Canada highway (Hwy1) towards west (Vancouver). Once you crossed the Columbia River Bridge and reached the turnoff for Hwy 23 S (traffic light), start counting the kilometers as you keep driving west along Hwy 1. At km 13.8 you come to a paved truck pullout, directly in between the highway and Victor Lake (second lake west of Revelstoke). This is a good place to park your car. Please do not park at the gravel pullout 280 meters east, dangerous for oncoming fast moving traffic. Coming from Vernon, Kamloops or Sicamous: Drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards east (Calgary). Once you are past the prominent red hotel at Three Valley Gap, keep driving towards east for another few kilometers. This will bring you across a bridge and further to the Victor Lake (third lake east of Sicamous). Park at the prominent paved truck pullout. Approach From the paved truck pullout in between the highway and Victor Lake walk for 280 meters along Hwy 1 towards east. This brings you to a gravel pullout (don’t park your car there). Cross the highway to its north side (caution fast driving cars and trucks). There walk along an overgrown road for approximately 80 meters towards east (historical wagon road from Sicamous to Revelstoke). From this point, walk up the steep trail to the base of the Victor Lake Wall. For the routes "Return of the Osprey", "Trans Canada" and "Pan America" branch off to the right shortly prior the actual wall (sign). For all other routes keep following the main trail aiming straight up and slightly climber left. 15 minutes from the highway. Descent for all Victor Lake Wall Routes From the top of the Victor Lake Wall walk down the marked trail towards west and eventually in south direction. This brings you within 30 to 35 minutes back to your car at the Victor Lake and the Trans Canada Highway. Just as on the Squamish Grand Wall or any route on Yamnuska, bring a super light pack and light approach shoes, climb one of the many grand routes and after the climb enjoy the quick walk down back to the highway. The Goat Ledge The Goat Ledge is the prominent large ledge separating the entire upper wall from the lower wall. The Victor Ledge allows climbers to bail from any route as you walk towards west, along this large ledge to the Ninth Symphony / The Mission. After you arrive at the fourth belay anchor of The Mission, rappel straight down the lower part of the Ninth Symphony and the Baldwin Start. (35m, 30m, 28m, 28m). In between Return of the Osprey and Restless Spirits is a fixed rope.

The most popular rock climbing area in the West Kootenays. Easy access, great lines and good rock. This area is owned and maintained by The Association of West Kootenay Rock Climbers. Please consider buying a TAWKROC membership ( tawkroc.org/) for only $10 to help support crag maintenance and route development all over the West Kootenays.

*** these multi-pitch climbs are Mixed climbs of Sport AND Gear*** http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/grags_colbuttress_rrock.html Approach to base of Columbia Buttress The Last Tango, The Noose and Eternity From the intersection Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 S drive for 3.1 km along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge and past the traffic light of Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South as far as the Canada West Campground. There is a small parking area on the north side of the highway. Park your car there. From the parking area walk 50 meters towards north to a Columbia Buttress sign. There leave the road to the left (west), follow the well marked approach trail to a narrow rock gully. Now walk for the final few minutes up this rock gully to the base of the climbs. All routes start at the same base bolt. 20 minutes from highway. Approach to top of Columbia Buttress The Hanging Judge and Convicted Drive: From Revelstoke drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards west, across the Columbia River Bridge to the traffic light at Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South, 900 meters from western access to Revelstoke. From the Hwy 1 and Hwy 23 South traffic light turn right and follow the Westside Road for 3.8 km. There turn left and drive along the Boulder Mountain Logging Road for 10.6 km (check topo). This brings you to a road pullout and a turn-off leading to the left. Park your car there. Trail: From the road pull-out and turnoff follow the narrow turn-off road leading to the left (south) for 400 meters, to a small parking area with a great view over Revelstoke and the Columbia Valley. From there walk along a well marked trail in southerly direction, downhill to the tree line. There keep following the trail downhill for 50 meters where you will find a cedar tree with two clothing hooks. Leave your pack there, as The Hanging Judge and Convicted are topping out at this point. Now keep descending the trail to the rappel route for The Hanging Judge and Convicted. 10 minutes from the parking area.

Vancouver Island is the 43rd largest island in the world at approximately 500km long, 150km wide with an area of 31,285 sq km. It lies off the west coast of British Columbia, Canada from where it is reached by an extensive ferry system from mainland ports. The island is shaped a bit like a squat triangle with the southern half running north to south and the northern half jutting more to the west. The majority of the towns and cities are dotted along the east side of the island at the southern half. The northern half of Vancouver Island and the mountainous interior is largely rugged wilderness crisscrossed by extensive industrial logging roads. A few paved highways cross the island to smaller west coast communities such as Port Renfrew, Tofino, Gold River and Port Alice. For the climber, Vancouver Island is a great destination. There are a number of well developed cragging and bouldering areas and vast resources of high alpine climbing. A good overview of the sport climbing areas can be found at: www.wildisle.ca/islandclimbing/vancouver-island-climbing-areas.html The rock is mostly volcanic basalt and ~75% of the climbing is on this rock type. It is generally solid with good friction but lacks good, continuous crack systems so most of the crag routes on the Island basalt are bolt protected or mixed bolt & trad. There are also areas with limestone - Horne Lake, granite - Constitution Hill, sandstone - Duncan boulders and conglomerate - Saltspring Island. Vancouver Island has exceptional alpine climbing with a very active core of local alpinists adding new routes steadily. Look for a comprehensive guidebook to the Vancouver Island mountains: Island Alpine Select from Wild Isle Publications: http://www.wildisle.ca

One of Skaha's largest and most impressive walls has a relatively small number of routes and, sadly, few of them are actually worth doing. This is partially due to the quality of the rock, which is scaly and loose on the west face, but that crag's slightly out-of-the-way location doesn't help either. Most climbers come to adventure up the two-pitch gear route 'Slow Pitch' (5.10c), but 'Disparu' (5.11d) is an excellent two-pitch adventure sport climb up the south face. Hopefully, an ambitious local will adopt this cliff in the near future and help realize it's true potential. Conditions: The large, imposing Prow has two distinct aspects. The south face, home to 'Slow Pitch' and 'Disparu,' gets sun from mid-morning until evening. The west face, left of the arete, gets shade until early afternoon and then bakes until sunset. A few large trees shade the base of the south face.

Found on new West Col Trail west of Yamnuska. Chossy with potential. 51.119995, -115.127638

This small sector has nine shorter bolted routes (initially mostly 5.10), located roughly 200m west (left) of the climb Larry’s Groove (for now the left most completed route found at the Dust Bowl). This little venue houses over a half dozen fun warm-up lines and two, 5.11’s, with short cruxy bits to keep it interesting. The first two routes were established over 16 years ago by Andy Genereux and Richard Melville during a one-day effort. In the spring of 2024, Andy returned building seven more routes, giving this venue a bit more appeal. The west facing cliff further west seem to hold significant potential for some more moderate entry level climbs in the sun to be established, maybe adding some much needed lower-end diversity to the mostly harder fare found in the Dust Bowl. Moose Cove is located just a few minutes westward along this southwest facing wall from the Dust Bowl.

Red Rocks is composed of a three-thousand-foot thick escarpment of Aztec Sandstone, which has weathered into a series of ten major canyons which drain from west to east. This rock is generally well-bonded, being more solid than that found in the other great sandstone areas of the west, such as Zion or Canyonlands. Another major difference is that much of the rock is covered with a thin layer of desert varnish which on many of the faces, has partially weathered to lave behind a sea or good incut edges. it is these edges which allow routes like "Dream of Wild Turkeys", "Eagle Dance", and "Crimson Chrysalis" to climb such impressive features at a reasonable standard. in general, the unvarnished white and red rock can be soft, sandy and rounded in its natural state, although it cleans up well on popular routes to give very enjoyable climbing. Especially on some of the north-facing walls where the varnish has resisted weathering and there are far fewer face holds. on these walls the long, clean, crack and corner systems provide some of the best climbing routes in Red Rocks. - Red Rocks, Jerry Handren

The Flatirons are synonymous with Boulder and the history of rock climbing in North America. It would be hard to find another location in the country where such an extensive variety, from scrambling to hard "Head Point" routes exist so close to a major metro area. They form the backdrop to Boulder and are the centerpiece of Boulder's Open Space system. There are three main areas: Flatirons North: This area includes classic rocks such as the First, Second, and Third Flatirons, along with the Amphitheatre in Gregory Canyon. Climbs here range from short newer-age sport climbs to long trad routes, including some of the longer trad routes in the area, the whole face of the 3rd Flatiron, which is about 1300 feet and the Direct East Face of the 1st which is about 1400 feet. Hard conglomerate Fountain Formation sandstone is the medium for your rock craft. Flatirons Central: There are many rocks to explore in this area. The "Central" zone spans Bear Canyon to the Ironing Boards (just South of the 3rd Flatiron). Slabmongers can have many field days exploring the numerous smaller Flatirons, and there's a good amount of trad and even sport among these rocks. Have fun in this scenic setting. Flatirons South: This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, East Ridge, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and The Goose offer slabs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest climb in the area is here. There is plenty to explore here. (Note: Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb. 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr. 1 to Aug. 31. Historically, some of these have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Sphinx, Medusa, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, Bear Creek Spire, Harmon Cave (bats), East Face of The Hand (bats), East Face of The Finger Flatiron (bats), East Face of Der Zerkle (bats), Dreadnaught, Achean Pronoucement, Skunk Canyon Ridge 2 & west, Sacred Cliffs, East & West Ironing Boards, The Third Flatiron, Queen Anne's Head, occasionally Gregory Amphitheatre, and possibly others.) (Source: Mountain Project)

This area is know for having the first 5.14 established in the province. It is located on La Montagne du collège. There is 2 main area located on the west and east end of the mountain. The west part see the most traffic as it contains a better concentration of hard sport route. The topo, in french only, date a few year back and doesn't have most of the boulders problems that are spread throughout the mountain. To get the topo: http://qc.drtopo.com/north-america/canada/quebec/la-pocatiere

A zone of high quality boulders that for some reason never made it into the Vancouver Rock Climbing Guide book. The problems lie approximately 150m south west from the Fifth Tier at Godman Creek and are likely the hardest boulders in the Godman area. The lines are tall and technical, but thankfully have flat and wide landings. South west facing and sparse trees make this an ideal location for quick drying rock or warm early season climbing.

A cluster of boulders litter the hill side on the west end of the bluffs. This area has recently (2013) gone through a massive up heaval due to the Trans Mountain Powerline project. Some of the boulders do not exist anymore while others have remained relatively untouched.

For free topos, photos, and all the info you need, visit www.revelstokebouldering.ca The boulders are found West of Revelstoke on the EAGLE PASS FSR (forest service road) off of the trans-canada HWY # 1. From the main intersection accessing Revelstoke (Victoria/Laforme and HWY 1) you must head West towards Kamloops on the HWY. You will cross the mighty Columbia River and reach the intersection for HWY 23 South/Westsyde RD. (also a set of lights) - this is where you restart your odometer!! Continue past the intersection for 7 km's and until you have JUST passed the second set of passing-lanes from town. Use the shoulder of the HWY to slow down and turn RIGHT onto Eagle Pass FSR. *If the road dead-ends in 100 metres, you've turned on the wrong road and turned too early!* The Eagle Pass road will perform switch-back immediately and climb up the slopes. Once you have gone 700 metres and you have crossed a dry creek (if your lucky) you will have reached an area to park at the edge of the Cut-block on the left. Pull-over and Park. From parking you will continue up the FSR 20 metres to the P-Boulder and trail-head marked with Cairns on the right side and upwards on the mountain-slope. Note: FSR 20 has been refurbished. You can park at the apex of the first switchback and walk along the gravel road for about 500m before it turns to a faint trail that leads you to the Warmups Area. Note: Bring a large brush and bring your friends to this area, with some love it can be a great bouldering spot!

Aside from a couple of isolated moderates on the south face, the narrow tower of Blipvert is the sole domain of long 5.11-5.12 sport climbs, some of the best in Skaha. The lower half of the wall is sheer and fingery, but the upper face bulges, providing a burning forearm pump as the anchors slowly come into view. Of interest to trads is 'Max Headroom' (5.10c), an early Skaha route that's still worthy of attention. Conditions: Blipvert faces west and soesn't see the sun until early afternoon. Cold air trapped under the boulders at the base keeps conditions coolar than on other west-facing crags. It can be frigid climbing here in the shade during early-or late -season mornings.

A variety of interesting Granite close to town. West side is the stellar featured stuff and the east part of town is full of great crystals and tends to be more techy. Not as stacked as the Castlegar area but still lots of fantastic climbing. Boulders and Routes, some Multi Pitch

Eagle Crag is the highest bluff in the Chinese Mountains area at around 60m. The situation up on the south-facing hillside gives spectacular view of the surrounding Strathcona and Mainland Coast Range Mountains and adds to the exposure and atmosphere of the outstanding climbs. There are several faces and sub-crags so it takes some attention to detail to get oriented and locate the routes. The access path from the Chinese Mountains trail system arrives at the east (right) side of the crag. Branching uphill at this east end is the access path to the top of the crag and routes on Flying Snag Wall and Raven Corner. Continuing along the lower main path brings you to the base of the Main Wall and then continues west (climber's left) to the West Wing and at the end a path runs up to the top and down a forested draw to the base of Lower Eagle. Most of the routes are between 40 and 60m long. Some have mid-stations to break the routes into two pitches and where the climbing justifies it the anchors allow for lowering and top roping the lower pitches from the mid-point belays. Of these routes some work well to fire in one pitch. It's easy to tell on lead with directions from the guidebook as to how to best tackle each line. The rock is superb, solid andesite basalt which varies from steeper, clean, smooth grey texture to slightly off vertical, weathered coarse rock. There are a handful of Trad routes with one or two being exceptional quality. But as with most of the climbs on the Vancouver Island basalt the majority are sport routes with generous bolt protection.

This is a large north-west facing cliff that hosts some the the canyon's longest climbs. Climbs are generally good quality and vertical, to slightly off vertical. This cliff is a great choice if you like technical face climbing, but there are some classic steep and juggy routes towards the right. Paving Paradise, Planet of the Apes and Gear for Fear are among the standouts.

Bouldering up the Ladybird/Norn's FSR in the West Kootenays. Includes Lumberjack, Ladybird and Valhalla Boulders. Amazing Granite-y Gneiss amongst 3 big rock slides in the wilderness.

The best shady summer crag in the West Kootenays. Sculpted Gniess at its finest. 2.5km from the Syringa campground. Mostly in the 10+-12+ range with lots of outrageous features

One of Skaha's largest and most impressive walls has a relatively small number of routes and, sadly, few of them are actually worth doing. This is partially due to the quality of the rock, which is scaly and loose on the west face, but that crag's slightly out-of-the-way location doesn't help either. Most climbers come to adventure up the two-pitch gear route 'Slow Pitch' (5.10c), but 'Disparu' (5.11d) is an excellent two-pitch adventure sport climb up the south face. Hopefully, an ambitious local will adopt this cliff in the near future and help realize it's true potential. Conditions: The large, imposing Prow has two distinct aspects. The south face, home to 'Slow Pitch' and 'Disparu,' gets sun from mid-morning until evening. The west face, left of the arete, gets shade until early afternoon and then bakes until sunset. A few large trees shade the base of the south face.

This sector is the combination on two crags: east-facing Shortcut Cliff and west-facing Behemoth. Shortcut sports a few gear-protected cracks, but as it stands it's far from a destination spot. However, Behemoth has decent potential. So far there's a few quality routes in the 5.10-5.11 range, but that number could grow in the future. This cliff is close enough to Shortcut and the top end of Foreplay that a combination of crags is a reasonable plan. Conditions: Shortcut Cliff faces west and gets afternoon sun with no tree shade. Behemoth faces east and uphill, so it's in the sun in the morning.