From Canmore, take the Three Sisters Parkway up past the Nordic Centre to Whitemans Pond. Continue along the gravel road (Smith Dorrien Trail) to the beginning of the Spray Lakes Reservoir. Turn right following signs to West Spray Lakes Campground, continuing to follow the road as it bends left farther into the campground. After 1.5km there will be a large grassy pullout on your right with a sign “Trailhead Parking”, park here. There are two spots to begin hiking. The first can be accessed through the “Trailhead” parking lot by taking the obvious trail leading from it. The second is accessed by walking farther down the gravel road until you see a “no parking” sign on a gate. Follow the trail behind the gate. This is the faster route and will skip a steep hill. The trail winds through the forest following a creek for most of the hike. After approximately 2.5km you enter a rocky clearing with a waterfall on your right and the boulders easily visible to the left. Take the last small section of trail through the band of trees to access the boulders. A trail continues up and right of the boulder field; it leads up to the old goat glacier. Hikers frequent the area to view Old Goat Glacier up in the higher valley.ogistics The total hike time is around 30min. With 200m elevation gain over the 2.5km it makes for an easy hike. Three good sized pads and a decent spotter will let you climb almost all of the problems. More pads will be a necessity on some problems, while very few require less than three. Almost all of the boulders face north, and hardly ever come into sun. Most of the slab climbs get morning sun, and the entire valley becomes shaded around 4-6 PM. Once past the upper Grassi Lakes parking lot, cell reception is lost. So keep this in mind when planning your day. **Please note the campground is closed from mid-September to mid-May** **The hike will be 1.5km or about 20min longer during these times.**
'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya! Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right. Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers. The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.
Named after Easy in an Easy Chair (V4). Lots of quality problems. Trail found directly behind toilets heading north on the Grand Wall Trail from the parking.
Located near the heart of Oneonta, Palisades is a state park with a nice little cliffline running just below its parking lot. There's a good range of climbing difficulty, ranging from easy 5.4 up to roofy 5.12. Because everything can be easily toproped, it's a perfect place for a beginner's first outdoor climbing experience. And if you're just getting started on trad, Palisades is an excellent training ground; routes like Buckets (5.5) offer easy leading and plentiful protection. Be aware, though, that the grades tend to be sandbagged; Elephant Crack (5.6) and Box Lunch (5.7) are not for the novice leader. There's no sport climbing at Palisades. Two-bolt anchors are at the top of most routes to set up a top-rope. All climbers must register at the park office and buy a $5 climbing permit (this is good for two weeks). From the parking lot, head for the cliff top near a picnic pavillion and scramble down a fourth-class gully/chimney to the base of the cliff. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas is a good resource for routes at Palisades. NOTE: All "subareas" are part of the same cliff line.
Small roadside crag about half way up Sumas Mountain. There are 9 climbing routes found on the main wall: 2 trad and 7 sport ranging from 5.6-5.11a. 10 draws and a 60m rope will get you up and down everything. This wall is in the shade for most of the day due to forest cover. This is a great spot to go to avoid the heat of the sun, however it does take a little while to dry after a rain event. A single rack for the trad routes is adequate. This is the go-to beginner crag in the Fraser Valley as it is very easy to set up top rope anchors. Solid rock with good holds plus moderate grades ensures this is a great place to learn! A lot of anchors are just hangers, and are back from the edge so a couple of slings are nice for top ropes. There are rap stations at each wall, however walk-offs are quick and easy.
From the parking lot this zone takes about 2 min to get to. It contains a number of great warm-ups, as well as a couple classic problems. The landings are flat, and travel here is quite easy. At the upper right of this area is an easy spot for crossing from the lower areas to those above.
Small boulder with easy approach and fun climbs in the right mini cave start. The left side cave could perhaps also have easy climbing but nothing known by name publically. Lots of potential for more climbing nearby, with a small cave uphill to the left, and some possible boulders and highball cliffs as well directly uphill. Go scope them out!
Routes are short (15 m) and mostly slabby with crimps, jugs, pockets, and slopers, with a few overhanging routes. Sunny sector at around 1450 m above sea level. Good for spring and fall climbing. Family-friendly crag with easy access and easy grades. The area is sometimes also called Tannourine-Teffehat. Refer to Lebanon Rock Climbing Guidebook by Jad el Khoury and George Emil (2021). The book is available for sale at Bluearth Lebanon in Bourj Hammoud.
Hiding above the Bealby Boulders, Red Sands Beach and just below the Rail Trail are these two shorter granite bluffs. Excellent featured stone full of unique crystals with lots of technique required. The views are fabulous and the proximity to town make for a quick and easy session. Faces west and fully bolted. Easy top rope access as well.
15 minutes outside of Canmore. Everything from off vertical to very steep overhanging rock with lots of neat features. Everything is bolted and retro-fitting has been complete on lots of the routes. Climbs range from 5.6-5.13c most are in the 5.10a - 5.12b range. It is an awesome crag for mixed skill level groups because of the close proximity between easier and harder routes. Because of the easy access, this place can be obscenely busy, both with climbers and hikers!
Close to the town of Canmore, this is an exceptional sport crag with something for everyone. From one to six pitches in length, this is a popular area for hikers as well. Short easy approach of ten minutes will put you at the first wall and the walls are in relative close proximity to each other. With the creek running through, it is beautiful but also can get quite chilly if the sun disappears.
Easy access on dirt roads. Clean area. Great rock to climb whether it's bouldering or sport.
Niagara Glen is the largest developed bouldering area in Southern Ontario. While it's just a few miles from the touristy chaos that is Niagara Falls, it's a world apart. Hundreds of boulders lie clustered between the cliff and river in a serene setting. With over seven hundred established problems, ranging from easy to V ridiculously hard, the Glen will have you coming back again and again. The Glen offers a mix of pocketed overhangs, thin crimpy faces and slopey sandstone. The rock quality and landings vary greatly throughout. The area has been climbed for decades and unfortunately the dolomite polishes easily, so many of the classics will feel nearly frictionless. See [Niagara Glen Climbing](https://niagaraglenclimbing.ca) for more info, particularly for those looking to make their first visit or still relatively unfamiliar with the glen. It is recommended to purchase the [Niagara Glen Bouldering Guidebook](https://www.mec.ca/en/product/6002-426/Ontario-Bouldering-the-Niagara-Glen) for the easiest navigation around the crag, as the free topos can be quite confusing if it is your first time out. Free online guide: http://www.topout.org/static/pdf/NiagaraGlen.pdf Conditions Reports: https://www.facebook.com/groups/181846299284018/ ACCESS NOTES: Permits are mandatory. Park staff are monitoring daily. Limit your group size & keep your belongings neatly collected to minimize impact on areas surrounding boulders. Stay on trail - no shortcuts, please!
Mt Nemo Conservation Area contains a 2km long band of escarpment limestone that reaches up to 30m in height. Hundreds of sport and trad routes exist from 5.easy to 5.12d. *There is a top roping ban in place. Please do not sling the cedars. All routes must be accessed from the bottom. Please refer to Gus and Justin’s guide for more information.
Qld’s hardest crag- coolum cave hosts the majority of hard climbs in the state. The climbing is powerful, pumpy, full body and core intensive. The rock is absolutely stunning bullet hard Volcanic rock with many horns and Stalactites throughout the cave. Bring your kneebar pads and best steep shoes for heel hooks. There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic! Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!
Ome city, Tokyo 100 boulders, over 400 problems Chert in a river bed, highly polished by water Long tradition of climbing since 1982, developed by Isao Ikeda ad others Easy to access by train or car from Tokyo "Mitake Bouldering Area Guide" is available from climbing gyms in Tokyo like B-pump. Crash pad rentals and guidebooks also available close to Mitake station from Maunga 2nd hand outdoor gear store: https://www.maunga.jp/?tid=5&mode=f5
Begbie Bluffs is Revelstoke's most extensive climbing area. Grades range from 5.easy to 5.13-- rock quality is also variable. Raptor, Rabbit and Popeye Wall are all recommended and Kid's wall is great for families.
Big Rock is a large quartzite glacial erratic located in a field directly off the highway near Okotoks. It is considered a tourist destination, therefore access is easy (there is a parking lot and paved path leading up to it).
Shade in the PM. Quality sport climbs. Easy approach on trails.
In theory there are three boulders here. In reality, there is one actual boulder and two tiny chest height boulders. You'll have more fun if you stick to the big one. Grippy, coarse granite and dries very fast. Most of the business is at the bottom, with easy top-outs. The tree on the north face is now gone. The Big Boulder: The side facing the road has harder problems, while the side facing into the forest has easier problems. Downclimb to descend.
Great climbing area with easy access and beautiful surroundings. Not very busy but a little far from most of civilization (3 hours from Toronto).
Revelstoke's outdoor climbing gym! This is a great place for beginners and famalies with an easy approch and short routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.11 minus.
This area is popular among beginners and families because most of the route are 5.8 and less on good rock. The moderate approach and easy top-rope setup is also a plus. The area is (or will) in the Parc of mount Orford and is closed from late autumn to 1st of may (check with the park).
A few boulders just down from Center Stage. Helps bridge the gap between the very easy and very hard climbs at Center Stage. [NANAIMO BOULDERING GUIDE](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PYZZcl4dBR3U6ha-VNCc-cEcWD6dJLwp/view?usp=sharing) ^CLICK HERE^
The Glenwood Erratic is a large glacial erratic located about an hour and a half southwest of Lethbridge. The boulder is roughly the shape of a cube, about 18 feet high with a flat top and nice landings. The sides of the boulder are mostly vertical, so most of the 30 or so problems are in the easy to moderate range. Access The boulder is located on private land, but the owners do not mind people visiting it. Please be respectful so that bouldering can continue here. Seasons Spring, summer and fall will offer the best conditions. Early spring may you may find the tall side (northeast) a tad swampy as the boulder is located in somewhat of a depression.
The most popular rock climbing area in the West Kootenays. Easy access, great lines and good rock. This area is owned and maintained by The Association of West Kootenay Rock Climbers. Please consider buying a TAWKROC membership ( tawkroc.org/) for only $10 to help support crag maintenance and route development all over the West Kootenays.
Lauretta Slabs-- 21km east of the Eastern Access Rd in Revelstoke. Located in the Revelstoke National Park, Lauretta Slabs is the oldest rock climbing area in Revelstoke. This 170 meter high cliff faces south and has an outstanding view across the deep forested valley and to the high alpine of the North Albert Peak. From the base there are two routes leading in two pitches each to a large ledge. From that ledge a great variety of climbs are available. The routes to the left (west) and in the middle of the face above the ledge offer more friction climbing, where the routes to the right contain more technical face climbing. One single 70 meter rope should do it for all rappels. Some of the routes are set up with 30 meters rappels. From the other routes with longer rappels, it is easy to reach the routes with shorter rappels.
The north west facing cliffs are located on the far east end of the greater Slhanny (Squaw) massif. The area is clearly visible from the valley. The trailhead is located 2.7 km (1.7 miles) along the Mamquam FSR. There are several decent pullouts near the trailhead. The trail is well established and easy to follow, rapidly gaining over 300m in elevation. Approach time varies between 25-35
With arguably the highest quality rock of all Nanaimo crags, several fine, long routes and easy access, Northwood's popularity is steadily growing. A number of additional routes are under development. All routes are less than 30m except for Sunny Side Up which is likely 31m. Route grades still need consensus. Be aware that there is still some loose rock on the routes so be cautious belaying and please wear a helmet.
"Easy 4wd access. Parking near base of cliff. Some good sport climbing. Chains at top of most climbs. Has fixed, mixed and natural pro. Guide book can be purchased at Kelowna MEC or Gym of Rock located in Salmon Arm. The granite is different than Squamish, but unique and exciting in its own way."
Easy circuit of routes centered in around the "Crag X" area
6 routes in the "Neat and Cool" area. For a easy mellow day
A list of easy problems in the Viper and Survivor areas for a good day of power endurance, great first day of the year list or just good problems for a beginner.
Things that won't be easy that I want to climb this summer.
30 v1s (book grade) circuit, start either at Titanic or Easy Chair. Fun way to spend a couple of hours in the Grand Wall.
Routes with a moderate grade, good pro (by JT standards), short and easy approach, bolted anchor (rare at Josh), highly rated.
Single pitch moderates, mostly sport with a handful of trad, easy approach, highly rated in guidebook.
A full list of climbs that I have in mind for trips to Skaha summer 2021. Not looking to do all of them but am wanting to have a list handy so I can make choosing a route to try a bit more easy.
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