The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is, don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers; you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches on high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, and this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.

One of the farther zones from the parking lot in the East Fields. There are three top 100's located in this zone: Jay's Pinch V5/V6, Spirit Bear Left V7 and 99 Problems

Was once a quite and secluded area from the main populace where you could find quiet and not many climbers ... ... Chippewa Creek Gorge was formed by glacier movements thousands of years ago. These glaciers exposed outcrops of Shale, Berea Sandstone, and Euclid Bluestone. In the late 1800s the Berea Sandstone and the Euclid Bluestone were quarried for use as building materials. This ended in the early 20th century due to a decreased demand for natural stone for construction. Brecksville Reservation was declared a public park soon after. In the late 1990s the first information about climbing in the park was posted to another rock climbing website. Problems were put up and documented by that generation of climbers, but not everything was posted back then, and the website ended up becoming defunct. Legal access to the park for climbing was problematic. There was a high risk of getting your gear confiscated by park rangers. Around this time, Jeffery Bonatti created a series of hand drawn “Ruff Guides” for the park, but they weren’t highly accessible. Due to this lack of organized information, each subsequent generation of climbers claimed FAs and gave names to lines that have likely been claimed and named multiple times before throughout the years. To add to this, the moss and lichen covers boulders that don’t see much traffic and makes it look like they’ve never been touched. The creek changes the sand bars and covers or reveals footholds and washes away evidence of being climbed. Currently, the park is more accessible and more developed for climbing than recent history. There is a trail being made by the park system going from the main Gorge Rim trail down to the creek where Pinch Arete and Keyhole are. Due to the volume of climbers that have been recreating in the park, it no longer feels sketchy to walk in with pads for a session due to power of the masses. On any pleasant day you can fully expect to see other people climbing. Work is being done to organize the lines into a definitive list with proper photos, names, locations, and grades. On the topic of conditions, many problems have had holds broken off in recent years due to being climbed when the rock is still wet. The boulders in the creek itself are much more tolerant to this due to many years of water erosion, but the rock higher up on the cliff line isn’t used to this kind of stress and breaks surprisingly easy. Surprising like, wow I’m falling but the hold is still in my hands, surprising. It usually takes a solid three days of dryness and wind to get back into shape after a good, longer in the spring and winter. The main parking area for climbing access is the Pavilion area at the East end of Chippewa Creek Drive. It isn’t the first lot by the waterfall, it is ~1000ft down the road, where there are four parking areas grouped together with a swing set and a pavilion. If you walk straight North from the swing set you'll find the chained entrance to the climbing trail with a sign that states “Stay on the designated trail.” Stay on designated trails. Check out climbchippewa.com for more assistance and this WIP map of problems/info/location ----> https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1n3KipMBR1zOSon5n8RcScCqQkjStPMV7&ll=41.31983427452158%2C-81.6170396062424&z=17

Niagara Glen is the largest developed bouldering area in Southern Ontario. While it's just a few miles from the touristy chaos that is Niagara Falls, it's a world apart. Hundreds of boulders lie clustered between the cliff and river in a serene setting. With over seven hundred established problems, ranging from easy to V ridiculously hard, the Glen will have you coming back again and again. The Glen offers a mix of pocketed overhangs, thin crimpy faces and slopey sandstone. The rock quality and landings vary greatly throughout. The area has been climbed for decades and unfortunately the dolomite polishes easily, so many of the classics will feel nearly frictionless. See [Niagara Glen Climbing](https://niagaraglenclimbing.ca) for more info, particularly for those looking to make their first visit or still relatively unfamiliar with the glen. It is recommended to purchase the [Niagara Glen Bouldering Guidebook](https://www.mec.ca/en/product/6002-426/Ontario-Bouldering-the-Niagara-Glen) for the easiest navigation around the crag, as the free topos can be quite confusing if it is your first time out. Free online guide: http://www.topout.org/static/pdf/NiagaraGlen.pdf Conditions Reports: https://www.facebook.com/groups/181846299284018/ ACCESS NOTES: Permits are mandatory. Park staff are monitoring daily. Limit your group size & keep your belongings neatly collected to minimize impact on areas surrounding boulders. Stay on trail - no shortcuts, please!

Climbing at Carver requires a membership with the Carver Climbing Club, as it is located on private property. Ask at the Portland Rock Gym or Circuit Bouldering Gym front desks for more info or sign up here: [http://carverclimbingclub.org/](http://carverclimbingclub.org/) Climbing without this membership is damaging to access for everyone! The landowner has threatened to cut off access more than once. Please don't endanger this local resource. Portland's most convenient bouldering area is located about 30 minutes from the city center. The style is slick, technical, powerful climbing on small, rounded boulders with awful holds. Often burned as a tiny area, Carver actually has quite a few good problems buried under moss and disuse. Brushes (nylon, never wire!) and a sense of exploration and discovery will serve you well here. If you're looking for bigger, harder problems, with a more remote feel, you may wish to check out Bridge of the Gods.

Muscle Beach was created mostly in part by Cody Leyden, who is a prolific bolter in the region. "MB" as it is affectionately known as is as steep as is gets in Skaha. This crag has two tiers of wall the lower and the upper. The lower has moderate vertical climbs much like limestone in style. While the upper has short but incredibly power routes that take angular holds through roofs. Most of the routes are fixed, but bring draws and your biceps. Guidebook Description: For Thuggy, overhanging sport climbing, MB is hard to beat. The large roof that slices through the blocky overhangs on the upper wall produces routes that are both bouldery and very pumpy. The climbing here is reminiscent of Rifle, Colorado, and many routes have a three-dimensional feel that benefits from knee-bar trickery. The lower wall is home to a worthwhile collection of 5.11's, but the upper wall is where the action is at, and for this, you'll need to climb at least 5.12-. Bring your guns.

A beautiful and highly accessible sandstone crag only an hour north of Bogota. Lots of traditional climbing, a lot of mixed routes, and a few sport climbs. The sport climbs are generally poorly protected by modern standards and would likely feel better with a couple of pieces of gear. More often than not, without gear, a climber will be repetitively exposed to ground fall potential on a single sport climb. The sandstone is very hard and slick and cams can blow easily – the locals recommend hiring a guide for at least a day to out of towners to get the lay of the land. An old spanish guidebook is also available at the gear shop at the trailhead on weekends.

Castle Rock is home to many of the classic climbs in Tumwater Canyon, and is home to Washington's first multipitch, technical rock climb (Midway, Fred Beckey 1948). Historic climbs such as Angel Crack and Midway offer options for trad leaders seeking a range of difficulty from challenging to mellow routes. In general, the rock quality is excellent though many routes are highly polished from extensive traffic. Pitches leading to the summit of Castle rock can be somewhat indistinct and somewhat runout, offering an adventuresome feel on a well-traveled formation. Castle Rock faces predominately southwest and can get a lot of sun. The rock is split by Logger's Ledge, a wide ledge halfway up the formation. Climbs on upper Castle begin from this ledge, which is reached by an obvious trail from the parking lot. Climbs on the lower half begin near the parking lot. To descend from climbs which reach the summit of Castle Rock, follow a good climber's trail off the back of the formation down to Loggers Ledge.

The rock is pale pink-to-white granite, and forms an abundance of edges rather than Squamish-like slopers. The boulders are located at the base of a large talus slope; many boulders rolled into the forest below, providing sandy landings for some problems. Most boulders are found in the toe of the talus, however, resulting in less-than-perfect landings. Bring a crashmat! There are many pictographs in the area (on the Pictograph Boulder, for example). DO NOT CLIMB ON or TOUCH the pictographs! They are a significant cultural resource, are interesting to look at, and have substantial meaning to the local first nations peoples. Do not damage them in any way! In many instances, pictographs were drawn by young men on vision quests. As this was a new area, many of the problems may be a bit dirty, and beware of the occasional loose rock. If you want to establish new problems, feel free – a wire brush is recommended.

Overall this cliff is a newer moderate warm-up venue for climbers going to the Moose Mountain Crags. The Beach Front Buttress was fully developed in the spring of 2019. Until recently it was the first climbable cliff encountered on the way into the area. There are thirteen routes on this sunny south facing aspect. The crag is tucked in behind a treed shoulder with generally good sun exposure and it’s out of the wind for the most part. Overall it hosts moderate climbing (ten routes are in the 5.10 range or less) making for an ideal stop to warm up on before heading up valley to try some of the harder fare on offer. This small crag provides a pleasant venue to spend the day doing low intensity moderate cragging. The only drawback to these fun routes is the overall height of the cliff at around 20m or less, it simply leaves climbers wanting more. In spring/late winter this small buttress catches the sun roughly an hour before the Moose Patch sector located another 5 minutes up the road. Stopping off here allows climbers to start their day bit sooner. This crag is usually out of the wind and a sun trap making it ideal for late winter and early spring rock climbing and fighting with marginal temperatures. Named after the unusual sand beach found below the cliff on the northern flank of Canyon Creek. The venue makes for a very fun hang. The creekbed was dry during the three weeks of development in March and early April of 2019. However, later in the year be aware that water levels can change rapidly and crag access may require proceeding upstream crossing over the bridge and then working back along the north bank of Canyon Creek during spring runoff or following heavy rains from intense summer thunder storms. All climbs on this crag are well protected, most require six or seven draws plus clips for the anchor. All top anchors are from two staggered ring-bolts. Note: There are some very low first bolts on some routes along with a couple, two-bolt base anchors detailed on the photo-topo. These low height bolts are intended for base anchors to back up tied off trees to allow lead rope soloing on these climbs. Please do not remove these lower hangers. Feel free to clip these bolts while leading or ignore them. Please don’t remove or vandalize this low hanging hardware.

The routes on Upper Red Tail all start off the access ramp, Dead Hawk Rake. Although the wall is slightly slabby in spots, most climbs feel vertical or close to it. Not a bad idea to bring a stick clip for a few routes.

No online topos are currently available for the climbs on this boulder, feel free to add info!

If you add a climb to this section, please add coordinates or a description of possible. There is a lot of rock along the beach offering possibly fun climbs at a beginner to moderate level mainly. Go explore and feel free to share if you find something fun. Assume that other climbers have likely climbed many of these routes but not given them names nor documented them.

Info and supplied photos by Glenn Reisenhofer Almost all problems are sit down starts and with the exception of some traverses all problems top out. Treat this place with respect. This was a spiritual meeting place for first nations folks. Please help clean up any litter. Thanks. North Boulder 1) Myles’ Mania-sds the north face. Don’t sneak off and onto the slab, go for the top. 2) Master’s Edge***-sds. Stay as close as possible to the true NE Arete. You’ll feel like Ron Fawcett. Watch out for the little brown bat crack. A classic old problem. 3) Fang**-sds up the east face on some crimpy sharp quartize. 4) Easy-sds up the SE Arete. A great warm up. 5) Fast Eddy*-sds up SW Arete. This is the beefier version of Jaime. Start with both hands on the only hold on the arête. Huck for the top of the arête and swing back left onto slab when you can. 6) Jaime**-sds to SW Arete using all the features. 7) Lao Tzu*-sds up west face. No arêtes or sides of rock are used. 8) Mantel Madness*-standing start to a pure mantel onto the west face slab of north boulder. 9) Neil’s Route**-sds up NW arête, onto and up slab. A good standing start warm up. An old problem. 10) Marc’s Ridge – Needs a sit down start. Grope the NW Arete as your feet traverse the north face of the boulder and top out on Myles’ Mania. 11) Black Rain*-a sds low traverse from the SE Arete (problem 4) traversing right to Neil’s Route. Using any holds below the overlap traverse with difficulty around the Master’s Edge (look for the little brown bat crack) and then continue with any hold below chest level to the NW arete. 12) Light Rain- traverse whole rock using the slab and any hold. 13) Mind Meld -***sds starting at the NW arête (problem 9, Neil’s Route). This problem uses and starts on the sloping holds that form the slab. Grope, grovel and heel hook your way to and around the corner (problem 6). Staying low continue with difficulty in between the rocks and finish on the problem Black Rain. Eat your wheaties before trying this one and of course you can’t touch the south boulder when traversing in between the two rocks. South Boulder 14) SE Arete***-sds climbs the beautifully rounded arête. 15) Crimpy**-sds up the middle of the east face (not using any arête holds). Watch your tendons as you’re crimping. One of the harder problems at Split Rock. 16) Fetus Freddy**-sds up the NE arête and up onto the east face. 17) Military Larry*-sds to a problem that starts in between the rocks close to Fetus Freddy. Layaways and edges to the top. The arête is out and so is the wall behind you. An old problem. 18) Three For One -another in between the rocks problem. If you come off on this one you’ll definitely hit the other rock and the holds are small at the top. Sds near the west side of the rock. The problem exists between the NW arête and the second, and more major, left facing ramp of rock. Aim for the tiny notch. The arête and major ramp are out. 19) Gaia – With a standing start grab any holds along the NW arête and head up with your feet on the north wall. Aim for the tiny notch. 20) Old Age Never Comes-start standing at the NW Arete and crank up into the dished slab on the west face. A sds would be very difficult. 21) Raw-start standing at the NW Arete (problem 20) and instead of climbing up, traverse and heel hook right until you reach the SW arête and ascend this. 22) Project for someone fit. Someone needs to ascend the west face of the south rock using neither arêtes. 23) Simon Parboosingh Power Hour*** Certainly the hardest problem at Split Rock. This problem ascends the west face with a sds between the south boulder and the MAD Traverse Boulder. Right hand starting on the sw arête and your left where ever you can and huck up the arête with your right hand eventually aiming for a small dish on the lip at the top of the west face. Watch the spine breaking rock behind you. The next four great problems all start at the SW Arete. 24) Slap Me Silly***-sds with a huck up and slightly right of the arete. Traverse left and grab the fin near the top. Continue left and up. A small dish (same dish as on route 23) at the lip helps execute the final move. 25) Mr. Kinnee***-sds. When Slap Me Silly goes left you go right and once you can properly stand on the large foothold on the south face head straight up. 26) Side Pull City**-start standing (some folks use the MAD Traverse boulder to start) and head up and right using only side pulls. This problem traverse the whole south face as it gently ascends. The crux is close to the very end. Top out on the SE Arete (problem 14). 27) Mr. Kinnee Does Side Pull City***-sds to the above problem. 28) Little Feet -sds the left side of the south face. Head for the thin edge where the plate of rock has been broken away. Use the side pulls near the top. 29) Sunday Morning After Church***- start standing with your right hand on a rounded hold just to the left off the SE Arete (most likely above your head). Left hand on one of the two small edges above your head. This problem has virtually no footholds. Toss up and grab the right sloping large edge at the top of the wall. Try to stick on the wall and head up and over. A very old route (even before sticky rubber). Can a sds be done? 30) Talking to Americans-sds on The SE Arete and with difficulty traverse into and top out on Sunday Morning After Church. 31) Fe Fi Fo Fum***-this is a traverse of the south rock starting and ending at the NW arête (problem 20). Start standing and ascend Raw. Sneak around the SW Arete and onto Side Pull City and continue around the rock back to the NW arête. Mad Traverse Boulder 32) The Mad Traverse**-sds at the west side of the small boulder that you can easily sit on. Heel hook you’re way around the entire boulder until you either burn out or are not small enough to continue. Great fun at the end of your bouldering session

A short, east facing bluff, found just south of Kids' Cliff. Currently sporting 4 climbs that feel tough for their grades.

Pinto Basin is the antidote to the hustle and bustle of the more popular areas to the west and offers enjoyable climbing, including some classics, in an area with a decidedly different feel than other areas in the Park, especially at some of the more remote crags.

Muscle Beach was created mostly in part by Cody Leyden, who is a prolific bolter in the region. "MB" as it is affectionately known as is as steep as is gets in Skaha. This crag has two tiers of wall the lower and the upper. The lower has moderate vertical climbs much like limestone in style. While the upper has short but incredibly power routes that take angular holds through roofs. Most of the routes are fixed, but bring draws and your biceps. Guidebook Description: For Thuggy, overhanging sport climbing, MB is hard to beat. The large roof that slices through the blocky overhangs on the upper wall produces routes that are both bouldery and very pumpy. The climbing here is reminiscent of Rifle, Colorado, and many routes have a three-dimensional feel that benefits from knee-bar trickery. The lower wall is home to a worthwhile collection of 5.11's, but the upper wall is where the action is at, and for this, you'll need to climb at least 5.12-. Bring your guns.

*Grades seem to be rough suggestions and tend to be soft, give what you think is accurate.* Better than anticipated. Create your own boulders, but for some suggestions the following info was provided by the manufacturer/installer OnSite. Suggested grades from OnSite. Perched on square cut bases that provide board-style starting feet, the blocks are taller than they first appear and overhang slightly on all sides. All three rocks are different forms of granite. The North-most one is large-crystal white granite with slopers that will have people calculating sun angles and wind speeds to figure out the best time for sending (just like the real Squam!) The middle boulder reminds me of bow valley rock with pockets of all sizes and blocky features for compressing. The south boulder climbs like Kelowna Gneiss with it's skin friendly and in cut crimps leading to a sharp rail perfect for Dyno variations and the accompanying flapper potential. The physical closeness of all of these rock styles creates a very interesting comparison. To be able to feel the difference in style that the rock textures induce, and go between them while the sensation is still fresh in your fingers is extremely cool.

This west facing limestone crag offers lots of shade until the afternoon. Prime time is May, late July, August, September. Please leave grade suggestions for routes as they are tentative. There is no top access for top-roping. This crag was mentioned in Lyle Knight's 1996 book, Central BC Rock, as "On the brink of seeing extensive development." One route was bolted here in the late 90s but then attention was focused elsewhere and Purgatory languished...until now. *This crag has more of an alpine feel. Please anticipate some loose rock and wear helmets at all times. As a belayer, think about where you're standing.*

The Metrosexual Area is widely regarded as one of the most popular DWS venues in Mallorca. With a height of around 12 m and most crux sections coming well below the top, falls tend to feel less intimidating. The majority of routes face south and offer straightforward exits if you set them up properly. The crag is usually sheltered, though—as with most cave climbs—it can get greasy. On dry, sunny days, however, you’ll find plenty to keep you busy. Best avoided during swells, as the zone can quickly transform into a powerful wave basin.