Feed Your Monkey – 5.13a
Description:
The thin flake mentioned by Alex in April '19 (around bolt 5) had indeed broken by August '19. That part now feels like a tense vertical stemming/gaston boulder problem. I'm not sure how much easier the original holds made it, but the redpoint crux or cruxes are surely higher where things steepen. Excellent climb!
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Recent Sendage:
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2020-10-03Amazingly sustained and varied. -
2020-10-01Classic! Technical, powerful, and sustained. First time I've done 8 bolts of hard climbing at Horne without a single kneebar. Felt a solid grade harder than any other 13a's at Horne - the move to the broken hold was one of the hardest single moves for me. So stoked for a sunny sendy day in October! -
2019-08-13The thin flake mentioned by Alex in April '19 (around bolt 5) had indeed broken by August '19. That part now feels like a tense vertical stemming/gaston boulder problem. I'm not sure how much easier the original holds made it, but the redpoint crux or cruxes are surely higher where things steepen. Excellent climb! -
2019-04-15Happy to send after many days of work. A bit of a brawl on the redpoint. Almost fell on the 5.10 climbing near the old anchor. Comes down to pure endurance and the ability to recover well on really good rests. Climbs somewhat like Pushers in that respect, but is a good notch harder, I would say. Watch that undercling flake in the vertical section as it will probably blow off one of these days.
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2018-10-16Last climb of the Horne trip. Early morning with Joe, neither of us were confident in the OS so we put the 2nd go tactics to work. It payed off with just enough time to get him to The Ferry in time! This climb has it all, ultra-classic!
