Don't Rock The Boatswain – 5.13a


FA: Zach Watson, Miles Adamson - 2017-09-03

Description:

Approach:
Park at the rats nest cave parking area, Follow the trail for Ratsnest Cave for approximately to a fork on the left that leads to a powerline. Follow the powerline west down to where a trail turns right into the forest. Follow this trail and an old road until you reach the drainage below the canyon. Follow the drainage until you reach the route near the base of a ramp angling up and to the right and find the climb front and center at the back of the canyon.
Pitch 1:
11c 12bolts
Climb through several slabs and bulge crux trending left to a roof and another crux and run out to the anchor.
Pitch 2:
13a 12bolts
Climb the massive flake to the first bolt and continue straight up through amazing rock and a shouldery crux to some tricky sequences through a corner and the anchor.
Pitch 3:
12c 19bolts
Climb up and right then immediately left through some cryptic climbing to a beautiful corner that leads to a difficult slab crux and a hanging belay perfect for boatswains.
Pitch 4:
12b 13 bolts
Traverse up and right from the anchor eventually reaching a corner where you continue right to a layback flake eventually returning bake left to the corner and a bolt where easy climbing leads to a nice ledge and an anchor. Walk along the ledge to the left to move the belay to an anchor further left before climbing the next pitch.
Pitch 5:
12b 9 bolts
Traverse straight left past a giant block and continue straight up through a short boulder problem that leads to a corner and mantle to the next anchor.
Pitch 6:
12a 10 bolts
Climb straight up from the anchor through deceivingly good holds to a small ledge and belay just below the imposing roof.
Pitch 7:
14c? 16 bolts (open project)
Traverse left to a steep prow and continue up to a steep hanging corner staying in the corner to reach a tufa jug then continue up and left through steep and tough climbing.
Descent
To rap the route you need two 70m ropes and from the top of the 5th pitch rap all the way to the top of the 3rd

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.13a
    2017-09-03 (FA)
  • 5.13a
    2017-09-03 (FA)
    with my main man zach attack aka THE BIG PURPS you put us both on the same mountain of course we gonna send