Dancing in the Dark – 5.13b ↑
Description:
This route is the extension of a 12a called holy upsettas at the boss wall above the famous amphitheater in horne lake. It was bolted by Rene Monjo who is a prolific local hard man. The name of the route refers to the crux in which you are climbing in beautiful black limestone and it is also an reference to the name of the crag. This a 110ft route, so bring a 70m rope.
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Recent Sendage:
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2016-09-25The meat of this climb is super cool with tensiony underclings and sidepulls. Basically no resting from when you start into the roof on the 12a until you reach a good stance another 7 draws up. Sent on my 3rd try in a day, after having fallen on the last hard move on the 2nd go, and having climbed Feed Your Monkey the day before. So, not sure about grade. At least 13b, possibly 13c. *** It's a rope stretcher 35m. A 70m will get you back to the ledge. A chopped 70 might not. Tie a knot in your end! or... pull through from the anchor of the 12. -
2016-09-1810 meters of tufa compression, underclinging, pinching awesomeness! Bookended by another 20 meters of decidedly ok climbing. -
2016-05-28What a gem. Such a beautiful line. Didn't use any knee bars through the crux, but apparently there is one. -
2013-09-15 (FA)Great climb! So psyched!! Thanks to Rene for bolting this route. Boss wall is amazing!
